sc 300 wont start after swap
10-27-12, 03:48 PM
#31
Driver
Thread Starter
well i did some checking and pulled voltage from the pin 58 and only could get 9.23 i started to wiggled some of the wires on the igniter and the volts started to go up. it got up to 11.3 volts. so i turned the key real quick it started for like 3 seconds and quit. And just barely starts any other tim so when i wiggled the four wires on the igniter one came out and I cant get it back in plus the temp and oil sensor wires came out too so i just pulled the harness man what a pain
. I hope you guy's don,t mind i'm not trying to be rude but i wanna send it back to have you go over it to make sure its all good. also to have you install the apexi safc 2 controller wires ill pay for that. I did send the ecu and igniter too. to see if your able to check it with the harness. I don't know if your able to do that if not let me know i guess. also pleas let me know the address to where i need to send this thanks
. I hope you guy's don,t mind i'm not trying to be rude but i wanna send it back to have you go over it to make sure its all good. also to have you install the apexi safc 2 controller wires ill pay for that. I did send the ecu and igniter too. to see if your able to check it with the harness. I don't know if your able to do that if not let me know i guess. also pleas let me know the address to where i need to send this thanks
10-27-12, 09:14 PM
#35
Lead Lap
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Don't be sorry man! We stand behind our work, and if there is a mistake, we repair it no cost to the customer.
A few things I do want to point out though. The plug you have plugged into your Oil Level sensor on your upper pan, is NOT your oil level sensor plug. That looks like your EVAP VSV plug. That won't cause your car not to start, but it's not meant to be there.
The ground that you have going to your motor mount, or what looks like your motor mount from the pics, move to the block itself.
I'll PM you our shipping info. Also, some other info regarding your SAFC....There is a lack of communication between us and Yury regarding that being wired in, so we'll take care of you.
-Cam
A few things I do want to point out though. The plug you have plugged into your Oil Level sensor on your upper pan, is NOT your oil level sensor plug. That looks like your EVAP VSV plug. That won't cause your car not to start, but it's not meant to be there.
The ground that you have going to your motor mount, or what looks like your motor mount from the pics, move to the block itself.
I'll PM you our shipping info. Also, some other info regarding your SAFC....There is a lack of communication between us and Yury regarding that being wired in, so we'll take care of you.
-Cam
10-28-12, 11:01 AM
#36
Driver
Thread Starter
oh ya i have the sc 300 oil sending unit so the plug end is different and it looks like a vsv plug end it has the notch at the top of female side of it. and not rounded like the aristo plug. i sent the plug end with the harness. and yes thank you very much on that apexi safc 2 controller hook up i really appreciate that big time. you guy's are good people i know you will do me right thanks man
10-28-12, 11:11 AM
#37
Lexus Champion
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I hope you get this thing going soon. I know how it feels to not have everything go smoothly. I barely got my ride running after a years worth of it sitting in the garage.
10-28-12, 06:54 PM
#38
the wire that came out of your 4 pin igniter plug is pin IGF which will keep your car from running. To pull a wire like that takes a good amount of force if it has a good connection. The fact that after jiggling the wires here made your car stumble leads me to believe that it wasn't properly connected. I hope they pay shipping both ways.
10-28-12, 08:14 PM
#39
Marwan, So I did some more digging, and apparently, 92-96 factory manual cars, STA on IJ2 is on pin 8. For whatever reason, on the very rare 97 factory manual cars, STA on IJ2 is on pin 17, not pin 8 like every other SC manual ever made.
With your car originally being automatic, you will not have ANY STA wiring on your IJ2 plug. It's manual only thing that comes directly from the clutch switch mounted on the pedal.
As for any other issue, that harness as a lifetime warranty, you can send it back and we can go over it again, repair any issues we find, and ship it back to you. We cover shipping both ways.
The only thing I really don't understand is when your harness left our shop it was gone through by me personally, and one of our other techs (as we do with all our new harnesses) and it checked out. The ONLY difference between your harness and every other brand new harness we build is that the harness was not shipped directly to you from us. You bought the harness from Yury at Wiring Specialites, so the harness was shipped to him prior to receiving it. But, I don't see how that would cause an issue with the harness.....
With your car originally being automatic, you will not have ANY STA wiring on your IJ2 plug. It's manual only thing that comes directly from the clutch switch mounted on the pedal.
As for any other issue, that harness as a lifetime warranty, you can send it back and we can go over it again, repair any issues we find, and ship it back to you. We cover shipping both ways.
The only thing I really don't understand is when your harness left our shop it was gone through by me personally, and one of our other techs (as we do with all our new harnesses) and it checked out. The ONLY difference between your harness and every other brand new harness we build is that the harness was not shipped directly to you from us. You bought the harness from Yury at Wiring Specialites, so the harness was shipped to him prior to receiving it. But, I don't see how that would cause an issue with the harness.....
the wire that came out of your 4 pin igniter plug is pin IGF which will keep your car from running. To pull a wire like that takes a good amount of force if it has a good connection. The fact that after jiggling the wires here made your car stumble leads me to believe that it wasn't properly connected. I hope they pay shipping both ways.
hope you get this going bro. watching to see how things turned out for you as I may be ordering a harness from tweak myself really soon, dunno yet. depends on if my wiring guy can do the harness or not.
10-29-12, 05:00 AM
#40
Maybe you should re-read the first two sentences of tweak tech's post you quoted where it says that research was done AFTER the harness had been deemed ready to go and shipped to a customer that spent days trying to figure out a solution. Sorry, but I hate seeing people spend this kind of money and stuff not be right. And every chance I have to expose that kinda stuff I will. As evidenced by other posts I have made. If your "wiring guy" has any kind of competence, give him the factory EWD from your specific year model car and the harness from the engine you purchase and tell him to make it work like the factory harness did.
points of interest in the EWD will be:
Engine control
Automatic transmission control (if staying auto)
starting and charging
reverse lights
combination meter(one wire temp sensor, CEL, 2 wire oil level sensor on pan, 1 wire oil pressure sensor behind ac comp)
automatic air conditioner(for ac and the vsv that goes to the heater control valve on the psgr side firewall)
theft deterrent system (for the horn on the driver's shock tower)
progressive power steering
give the injectors power where the stock injectors got power
give the ignition power where the stock ignition got power
give the vac switching valves/iacv/o2 power where the stock units got power
Make sure the ecu gets (all it really needs to run after above)
+B from where the stock ecu did
BATT from where the stock ecu did
IGSW from where the stock ecu did
MREL from where the stock ecu did
Make sure pin W at the ecu goes to the body in the same place it did from the stock ecu, and pin te-1 does the same so you can pull codes from the stock diagnostic port.
This IS tedious, but it IS NOT rocket science. A multimeter, patience, and understanding how to verify a circuit from one end to the other using continuity will get the job done. Spend your money with your "wiring guy" or take your time yourself and make it happen.
points of interest in the EWD will be:
Engine control
Automatic transmission control (if staying auto)
starting and charging
reverse lights
combination meter(one wire temp sensor, CEL, 2 wire oil level sensor on pan, 1 wire oil pressure sensor behind ac comp)
automatic air conditioner(for ac and the vsv that goes to the heater control valve on the psgr side firewall)
theft deterrent system (for the horn on the driver's shock tower)
progressive power steering
give the injectors power where the stock injectors got power
give the ignition power where the stock ignition got power
give the vac switching valves/iacv/o2 power where the stock units got power
Make sure the ecu gets (all it really needs to run after above)
+B from where the stock ecu did
BATT from where the stock ecu did
IGSW from where the stock ecu did
MREL from where the stock ecu did
Make sure pin W at the ecu goes to the body in the same place it did from the stock ecu, and pin te-1 does the same so you can pull codes from the stock diagnostic port.
This IS tedious, but it IS NOT rocket science. A multimeter, patience, and understanding how to verify a circuit from one end to the other using continuity will get the job done. Spend your money with your "wiring guy" or take your time yourself and make it happen.
10-29-12, 01:37 PM
#42
Lead Lap
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Maybe you should re-read the first two sentences of tweak tech's post you quoted where it says that research was done AFTER the harness had been deemed ready to go and shipped to a customer that spent days trying to figure out a solution. Sorry, but I hate seeing people spend this kind of money and stuff not be right. And every chance I have to expose that kinda stuff I will. As evidenced by other posts I have made. If your "wiring guy" has any kind of competence, give him the factory EWD from your specific year model car and the harness from the engine you purchase and tell him to make it work like the factory harness did.
points of interest in the EWD will be:
Engine control
Automatic transmission control (if staying auto)
starting and charging
reverse lights
combination meter(one wire temp sensor, CEL, 2 wire oil level sensor on pan, 1 wire oil pressure sensor behind ac comp)
automatic air conditioner(for ac and the vsv that goes to the heater control valve on the psgr side firewall)
theft deterrent system (for the horn on the driver's shock tower)
progressive power steering
give the injectors power where the stock injectors got power
give the ignition power where the stock ignition got power
give the vac switching valves/iacv/o2 power where the stock units got power
Make sure the ecu gets (all it really needs to run after above)
+B from where the stock ecu did
BATT from where the stock ecu did
IGSW from where the stock ecu did
MREL from where the stock ecu did
Make sure pin W at the ecu goes to the body in the same place it did from the stock ecu, and pin te-1 does the same so you can pull codes from the stock diagnostic port.
This IS tedious, but it IS NOT rocket science. A multimeter, patience, and understanding how to verify a circuit from one end to the other using continuity will get the job done. Spend your money with your "wiring guy" or take your time yourself and make it happen.
points of interest in the EWD will be:
Engine control
Automatic transmission control (if staying auto)
starting and charging
reverse lights
combination meter(one wire temp sensor, CEL, 2 wire oil level sensor on pan, 1 wire oil pressure sensor behind ac comp)
automatic air conditioner(for ac and the vsv that goes to the heater control valve on the psgr side firewall)
theft deterrent system (for the horn on the driver's shock tower)
progressive power steering
give the injectors power where the stock injectors got power
give the ignition power where the stock ignition got power
give the vac switching valves/iacv/o2 power where the stock units got power
Make sure the ecu gets (all it really needs to run after above)
+B from where the stock ecu did
BATT from where the stock ecu did
IGSW from where the stock ecu did
MREL from where the stock ecu did
Make sure pin W at the ecu goes to the body in the same place it did from the stock ecu, and pin te-1 does the same so you can pull codes from the stock diagnostic port.
This IS tedious, but it IS NOT rocket science. A multimeter, patience, and understanding how to verify a circuit from one end to the other using continuity will get the job done. Spend your money with your "wiring guy" or take your time yourself and make it happen.
As previously stated, we warranty all of our work for situations such as this. Unfortunately, sometimes small mistakes do slip under the radar, but we stand behind our work, and even though the time spent for diagnosis and repair may not be the most convenient thing for the customer, we're not going to leave them hanging.
With Marwan's harness, this was a variation that we had not seen before. If you look at a 97 automatic starting circuit and a 92-96 automatic starting circuit, they are the same. With a manual SC, there is one extra pin on the interior body plugs that comes from the clutch switch, which is also the same for 92-96. With a 97 manual being such a rare car, it never really crossed our minds that Toyota would have changed ONE pin for ONE year.
On another note, matters here at the shop are being dealt with so that things types of things don't happen in the future. We try and provide a quality product and customer service worth the money spent on it.
10-29-12, 03:57 PM
#43
Driver
Thread Starter
I have no problem with tweak performance they have done me and allot of the club lexus community building a very good harness. things do happen and I can understand that so i have no complaints about it. and they have a grate warranty plan they are going to take real good care of my harness. and make sure it's right. by the way i sent that out today it should be there thursday everything is in the box and thank you for your service 
they are going to take real good care of my harness. and make sure it's right. by the way i sent that out today it should be there thursday everything is in the box and thank you for your service
10-30-12, 12:35 PM
#44
VRANK i was quoting it in terms of the shipping part where tweak stated the shipping would be free both to and from them for harness repairs, that is all i did not quote them to bash them or anything else like that.
my wiring guy done a 2jzgte in a mk3 supra i think he can do it.
my wiring guy done a 2jzgte in a mk3 supra i think he can do it.
11-02-12, 09:07 AM
#45
Driver
Thread Starter
so dose anyone have a good idea or knows for a fact whats the best single turbo setup for all around driving. I would like to get 500 to 600 horse and have it boost up quick. i have been looking at the precision pt 6265http://youtu.be/KVtguKXPsMs i'm liking the power it puts down and still has room to grow