mine are leaking. just a light puff of white smoke when i give it throttle or at a stop light. it's not my head or bad oil.

so knowing this the longer i wait to change them will this inadvertanly damage my engine??

-should/can i still race/play around with my car boost wise with these leaking??

i know i HAVE TO PULL MY HEAD. to fix this,and doin that i might aswell get a metal headgasket and some arp headstuds and maybe some cams. so in turn this turns into a cluster ****. i found the seals for cheap.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/120940582544...84.m1438.l2649

iam just not comfortable working around valves and stuff.

 

this will be an issue if you burn up all of your oil. just keep an eye on your oil level and you'll be fine. may need to add a quart every once in a while. i have the same problem on my sc. I'm piecing together a turbo kit and now i'm stuck between boosting it on low boost and hoping for the best or pulling and rebuilding the head but then $$$$ starts to add up

 

Im in the same boat you are. Should I pull the head off to do Tt hg and arp head studs. Or just leave it the way it is a just run it.

 

Like jschru said, as long as you check your oil. You will be fine. My buddy has a 2jzgte with bad valve stem seals, he still drives it, and races it. From what you described, his is worse than yours.

 

It can be done without removing the head. My buddy did it in his mk4.

 

We took the head off mine.



If it looks like this, your better off rebuilding the head.

Sure, you CAN do it with the head still on.. but because id rather not get to the rear of the head where its the hardest to work on, and drop a retaining collar into a cylinder we decided it was best to remove the whole unit. And I'm sure as hell glad I did!

I luckily found a recently rebuilt 1jz stock head over on SF for 380 shipped. Installed a 2jzgte head gasket, arp head studs, thermal intake gasket, head was hot tanked and milled to have a 100% flat matting surface.. etc. Mine was smoking pretty bad though, if you couldn't tell by the image

 

Yea that is bad^^ I just pulled my head to re do the vss and springs etc etc which was a good move as it's so much more easy this way.

 

how was this accomplished??

 

You pump compressed air into the cylinder through the plug hole holding the valves in the closed position and change the seals.
I've done several over the yrs.

 

sounds like a pain.

so doing some homework. school me further people.

would this combo work for me??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/190716971819...84.m1423.l2649

or would a 1.3mm work better??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cometic-C427...76e586&vxp=mtr

and just to confirm using 2jzget heAD studs is okay right??

 

Why are you trying to recreate the 2jz with aftermarket gaskets just use the oem 2jzgte and a set of ARP head studs.

 

give me some knowledge on the oem gasket?? what is the psi limits of these?? if i do upgrade the cams and studs would i not benefit using a cometic gasket(are they really better than oem or kinda overkill)???

 

Yea oem gte gasket and ARP studs are good to north of 800whp.

 

if you feel like spending hundreds of extra dollars pull the head off. if not just do it the other way with the head on the car i did it this way. its no as much of a pain as u would think and you can do the whole repair for less than fifty bucks. If you want an excuse to do the headgasket then take your head off. as far as the keepers as long as you keep your spark plug holes covered and they dont fall in the cylinder your good. in my years as a mechanic at toyota i have had quite a few of those fall in the oil drain and just let them sit in the bottom of the pan, my car included.

 

^is ther a writeup or a faq to do this with the head still on the car? Pics of this would go a long way.