1jz resistor pack/afc problem. Please help!
#1
1jz resistor pack/afc problem. Please help!
Hi guys, in preparation for a single turbo I figured I would go ahead and throw in my mk4 550cc injectors. I had just recently installed my afc neo. The car ran fine. Step two was to throw in the injectors, and wire in the resistor pack. I got an acura legend pack, we tested it with a multimeter and it was ok. We wired it in according to this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...to-1jzgte.html
The only thing done differently was that the 12v power wire from the resistor pack that was supposed to tap into the power for the injectors before the wires split into 6. But we looked at the wires and even the main wire before the split was the same size as all the ones going to each injector. If they were smaller, we would not have done this, but they were the same so we just tapped it in to one of the injector power wires.
First startup the car ran super rich but I realized I forgot to minus fuel on the afc for the 500 and 1000rpm range. And the battery was also dying. So we hooked up jumper cables, I subtracted fuel -50% across the board and tried starting it. After this the car has never ran or started. And no matter how much fuel I subtract (anywhere from -5% to -%50) on the afc, the car does not start. Then I took the plugs out and they were soaked with fuel. Cleaned them off and then the car ran for about 10 seconds on -15% across the board. It seems like it is still rich but I don't even know anymore, maybe its leaning out. I am out of ideas besides:
-Get completely new plugs
-Wire the power wire from the resistor pack to where it is one big wire before it splits to 6
-Change afc settings?
If anyone can chime in. How much fuel reduction are you afc guys running for 550cc to idle? What are your thoughts on how the pack is wired?
The only thing done differently was that the 12v power wire from the resistor pack that was supposed to tap into the power for the injectors before the wires split into 6. But we looked at the wires and even the main wire before the split was the same size as all the ones going to each injector. If they were smaller, we would not have done this, but they were the same so we just tapped it in to one of the injector power wires.
First startup the car ran super rich but I realized I forgot to minus fuel on the afc for the 500 and 1000rpm range. And the battery was also dying. So we hooked up jumper cables, I subtracted fuel -50% across the board and tried starting it. After this the car has never ran or started. And no matter how much fuel I subtract (anywhere from -5% to -%50) on the afc, the car does not start. Then I took the plugs out and they were soaked with fuel. Cleaned them off and then the car ran for about 10 seconds on -15% across the board. It seems like it is still rich but I don't even know anymore, maybe its leaning out. I am out of ideas besides:
-Get completely new plugs
-Wire the power wire from the resistor pack to where it is one big wire before it splits to 6
-Change afc settings?
If anyone can chime in. How much fuel reduction are you afc guys running for 550cc to idle? What are your thoughts on how the pack is wired?
Last edited by jzs14; 01-20-13 at 12:34 PM.
#3
No idea about how your resistor pack plays into the mix...
As general info:
550cc injectors will actually idle like stock even with the AFC set to zero across the board (it helps if you slightly drop static fuel pressure as well). The first time it starts, it will run poorly but if you let it run for half a minute, restart, run again, restart and give it a few times to cycle, the ECU will eventually start and idle 550cc injectors as if they were 370cc's. Yes. Even at a perfect stock 14.7-15.3 AFR. You really only have to fine tune the injectors when in boost.
Make sure your battery is well charged. My car ran stupid rich after the battery died and I tried to jump it. A half hour on a charger and the ECU ran fine when it saw proper 12v.
As general info:
550cc injectors will actually idle like stock even with the AFC set to zero across the board (it helps if you slightly drop static fuel pressure as well). The first time it starts, it will run poorly but if you let it run for half a minute, restart, run again, restart and give it a few times to cycle, the ECU will eventually start and idle 550cc injectors as if they were 370cc's. Yes. Even at a perfect stock 14.7-15.3 AFR. You really only have to fine tune the injectors when in boost.
Make sure your battery is well charged. My car ran stupid rich after the battery died and I tried to jump it. A half hour on a charger and the ECU ran fine when it saw proper 12v.
#4
You think thats it though? It would require me to take everything apart. I figured since its all just the same gauge wire giving 12v to the injectors. The ground is what fires them. Or am i missing something?
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#8
So the car just sat overnight with battery disconnected. Just hooked it up, set everything on the afc to zero. Tried starting it and it doesn't even start. So I stopped turning it over. Then i set everything to -25. Still nothing. So it cranks but doesn't start at all. I have no idea how it did start initially after the injectors were put in yesterday, but now nothing at all. Is it possible that my plugs are completely fouled and I need new ones for the car to even run. I cleaned them out but maybe I just need new ones?
#9
Its worth a shot changing the plugs. You probably have another issue going on besides the injectors. Confirm that you have spark first.
Everytime you unplug the battery you reset the ECU, you effectively start at square one with respect to long term fuel trims. The car should run with 550's. The AFR is crazy rich around 9.7-10.0 @ idle but it does eventually learn.
Everytime you unplug the battery you reset the ECU, you effectively start at square one with respect to long term fuel trims. The car should run with 550's. The AFR is crazy rich around 9.7-10.0 @ idle but it does eventually learn.
#10
Ok, so apparently with the resistor pack I wasn't getting enough resistance and after trying to wire it a couple different ways it still did not supply enough resistance. So I put 440's back, removed the resistor and the car still runs really ****ed up. It looks like it is running super lean and only firing on a few cylinders. Is it possible that since my resistance was not high enough before, I fried a couple injector drivers in my ecu?
#12
I'll try getting another ecu. And I have never heard of anyone having problems with the acura box because supposedly it is identical to the 2jz one. But I could not get it to work. Either way I already have 440cc in and the car should run fine but it doesn't. So there is another problem.
#14
I think it was putting out around 8 ohms per injector. But now I have the 440's in there so it should run now but its still messed up. Really thinking I blew some injector drivers. I'll check it out later when I have time.
#15
then without it?
The MKIV 550CC I believe required only 2-3ohms....