MMCtuner

I dont remember if its 3" and 3,5". You´ll need more pipes than those. A "U" would help, and a 60 degrees too.

mickesanda

What size?
This is what i've got:

mickesanda

Today I changed my brake lines to steel braided. Mine were 21 years old, they felt spongy and there was a clear improvement after the upgrade.

The rear brake lines were alright so it was no need to change them, i only changed the flexible hoses:




The front lines were corroded and there was a risk that they might break when unscrewed from the bracket. I had to manufacture new ones. I chose copper lines 3/16".The driver side was over 2 meter in length, while the passenger side was a lot shorter:




/Mike

mickesanda

This came in the mail today:
Battery terminal for the engine compartment when i relocate the battery


Bushings for front control arms, just like OEM the only difference is the price, these cost 33Ł from UK

mickesanda

Hi,
I just received my headers today and i have a question:
Which of these 2 setups is the most efficient?



Did i place the oxygen sensors and the wideband sensor correctly?

ihiryu

iTrader: (7)

where did you get that terminal?

On my SC, I've got the headers and the o2 sensors in the stock location. Then at the factory Y-pipe I deleted the resonator (as per JBrady's recommendation) and the wideband went there.

You're setup is correct on both ends, however, the wideband placement isn't that good. Unless you wanted to run one gauge per bank.

mickesanda

I bought it on Ebay for 6$, here is the link:
I wonder if i could weld another bung on one of the headers for the wideband? Would that be a better location?

I cleaned my garage today and found this from my old turbo days:

I hope i won't be needing it, but just in case
/Mike

mickesanda

Does this one look better?

MMCtuner

your wideband will be reading AFRs of only 4 of the 8 cilinders if you put it there. It´ll work, but not accurate nor safe.

mickesanda

I placed a bid on a AEM 6-in-1 AFR gauge with O2 sensor. Are you saying i should have 2 sensors? Or just find a better location for the wideband sensor? Something like an X-pipe before the CATS.
Can 2 sensors be connected to the same gauge?
/Mike

mickesanda

Hi guys,
I bought the screws for the fishbracket today, they were quite expensive, 7/16" x 127mm
and i manufactured 6 spacers from some junk i had in my garage, i cut them to 110mm to begin with, they'll be adjusted later when everything is in place.


I got some other goodies in the mail as well:
PCV Valve, the metal kind


Intake pipe


Mock up



I have otw some more silicone hoses and a V-band clamp 3" to see if it can replace silicone hoses where straight pipes meet each other. They cost an arm an a leg but they sure look cool.


I'll relocate the battery tomorrow, hope i got all the parts that i need, i bought 7 meters of 60mm2 battery cable.

mickesanda

I relocated the battery today and turned the fuse box 90 degrees CW. As promised i took a lot of pictures:
6 meters of 60mm2 copper wire

This where the cable goes into the boot


You need to find a suitable place for this component, make sure its not wired to the ground

This is the part you won't be using anymore

The cable goes under the backseat on the drivers side

and up besides the the fuel ECU

2 screws hold the plastic bottom of the fuse box.

A spacer was needed

Use the old screws that held the plastic cap

Sideview - i'll manufacture a new bottom later to keep moisture out




The old tray came to use. Find a place with thick sheet metal and drill a hole for the ground.

I had a plastic box for marine use, but it was so big that i ditched it in favor of the old tray

I'll manufacture some nice cover later on.

Hope you liked the pictorial and that it will be of some help
/Mike

mickesanda

A few stupid questions. Although i read several build threads there are still a few things i don't understand:
1. Do i need this fan bracket if i'm going to run 2 electrical fans and delete the stock hydraulic fan?

2. What kind of hose does one use for the loop of the hydraulic oil?
3. Where do these hoses go?

4. What do people use for idler pulleys? Any part number? It would be very helpful with a picture.
5. Is the stock intake pipe restrictive? Why do ppl replace it? I was thinking of keeping the black plastic intake pipe with the black resonator box underneath and replace the accordion hose that connects the MAF.
6. Any thoughts on AEM failsafe gauge (wideband + boost display + failsafe trigger)? 300 US$ on http://www.ebay.com/itm/AEM-30-4900-DIGITAL-WIDEBAND-UEGO-FAILSAFE-AIR-FUEL-BOOST-GAUGE-IN-1-FAIL-SAFE-/271007125258?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f19488f0a&vxp=mtr
I hope my questions were not too stupid, i really appreciate any input. Next step for me is hydraulic fan delete and i'm kinda stuck without answers to above questions.
Thank you in advance,
/Mike

Clean400

iTrader: (2)

I just purchased the AEM failsafe gauge for my nitrous setup. For the money it's a nice piece of hardware. I haven't received it yet but I've done a lot of reading on it.

I'm using the failsafe trigger on it to disable my nitrous if the A/F ratio becomes unsafe.

With a supercharger setup you can't really use the failsafe trigger because the bypass valve is vacuum actuated. However you can use the failsafe trigger to change maps on your ECU if it has switchable maps. I was reading on an s2k forum and one guy said you could wire the failsafe to a pressure switch to dump pressure in a supercharger setup.

http://www.enginebasics.com/EFI%20Tu...e%20Gauge.html

Nice link of things you can do with it.

The wideband has nice data logging as well. Once It's setup in my car I'll post about it for sure.

And just one wideband sensor is fine. Dual would be better but single fine.

mickesanda

A question and a little update:
I am preparing for a fan delete, unfortunately i cannot complete it this weekend, 'cause i'm still missing the pulley for my LS400 fan bracket, i've been given some good advice from KC.
I'd really appreciate some pictures showing what to delete and what is to be rerouted, stuff like fan oil cooler. I decided to change the timing belt at the same time, a new belt is otw.
I'll upgrade some suspension details in the rear, traction suspension and rear toe arms:



After reading a few old posts from spf_lexus and Nemesis, I went ahead and bought a bypass valve instead of the BOV i had since my turbo dayz.

I bought this one from a local shop for 20 $, but i kinda regret it now after finding a similar bpv on ebay, with an adjustable ****:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1610110584...84.m1438.l2649

/Mike