??Broken exhaust thread questions??
#1
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Alright, so my project has been going slowly for a while since I have been busy with school. But right before the semester started, as I was installing my turbo manifold the threads for the exhaust manifold bolt that is furthest back (cyl 6, top side if I recall) came off in the bolt, and it just spun 'round and 'round
. Needless to say that the threads are completely striped, and the bolt won't hold to save my life
.
Which brings me to my question: Would it be alright if I just left if be for the time being? I don't plan on boosting more than ~9 pis ATM, but would the missing bolt be a huge deal? If so, what recomendations can you guys give as to how to fix this, short of taking the head to be professionally redone. I recently came across the heli-coiling process,but this seems a tad sketchy for the intended application. Are there any alternatives to this process? Any and all input is appreciated, I know that this site has some high quality input (at times
).
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Which brings me to my question: Would it be alright if I just left if be for the time being? I don't plan on boosting more than ~9 pis ATM, but would the missing bolt be a huge deal? If so, what recomendations can you guys give as to how to fix this, short of taking the head to be professionally redone. I recently came across the heli-coiling process,but this seems a tad sketchy for the intended application. Are there any alternatives to this process? Any and all input is appreciated, I know that this site has some high quality input (at times
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#4
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Yea, they its way in the back past cyl No. 6. I was looking online for a heli coil set, and holy crap they're expensive. Like $120 for a full set. I guess if I can find the specific one that I need I should be able to do it for cheaper, but then I was searching the Grainger online catalog and the inserts are like ~$20.00!! What the hell?!
emoFTW, you may be right, maybe I should just get a larger bolt and tap it... since the head is aluminum it should be tons easier than the union bolt was lol
emoFTW, you may be right, maybe I should just get a larger bolt and tap it... since the head is aluminum it should be tons easier than the union bolt was lol
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#5
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Yea, they its way in the back past cyl No. 6. I was looking online for a heli coil set, and holy crap they're expensive. Like $120 for a full set. I guess if I can find the specific one that I need I should be able to do it for cheaper, but then I was searching the Grainger online catalog and the inserts are like ~$20.00!! What the hell?!
emoFTW, you may be right, maybe I should just get a larger bolt and tap it... since the head is aluminum it should be tons easier than the union bolt was lol![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
emoFTW, you may be right, maybe I should just get a larger bolt and tap it... since the head is aluminum it should be tons easier than the union bolt was lol
![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/tongue.gif)
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#9
#10
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http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...yword=helicoil
will this work for him?? because i have the same problem
will this work for him?? because i have the same problem
#14
Lead Lap
iTrader: (5)
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helicoils suck and they arent that strong.
ive had a stripped valve cover bolt hole on my head from the previous
owner installing an incorrect bolt and i went with a time sert
example:
![](https://www.belmetric.com/images/TS50113.jpg)
you have to drill out a large hole (to match OD of time sert) and then tap the hole,
install the time sert (mine had a notch for a screw driver,) and then youre good.
i just borrowed oreillys tap/die thread repair kit (free.)
whichever way you go, make sure you use red thread locker. on the helicoil/time sert
yes m10 means 10mm.
ive had a stripped valve cover bolt hole on my head from the previous
owner installing an incorrect bolt and i went with a time sert
example:
![](https://www.belmetric.com/images/TS50113.jpg)
you have to drill out a large hole (to match OD of time sert) and then tap the hole,
install the time sert (mine had a notch for a screw driver,) and then youre good.
i just borrowed oreillys tap/die thread repair kit (free.)
whichever way you go, make sure you use red thread locker. on the helicoil/time sert
yes m10 means 10mm.
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