my car just cut off while driving, need help
#18
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the bulb is good i check it today, before i check the codes it flash now it doesnt do anything, even the ignition on it suppose to come on when the keys is on the on position.switch the computer out for my brothers but doesnt help.. what can it be? this is a weird thing if the engine light comes on when i turn it to the on position the car starts and when i dont see the engine light it dont start.
Last edited by stocksc300; 12-25-02 at 06:20 PM.
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no, i have only the copy key , is that the problem? sometime i can drive the car a week nothing happen and all of a sudden it cuts off again, it takes me about 15 minutes to start it back up again everytime i see the ckeck engine light it starts but if i dont see the engine light it wont start. every time yyou turn on the key to on you suppose to see the engine light sometimes mine car it doesnt come on that means the car wont start....thanks for the reply, any help would be appr.
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It is probably the fuel filter or the fuel ecu. The fuel pump ecu is not located in the ecu position under the passenger floormat. Take it to a mekarnic main.
#23
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I have a 92' SC400 which has the same problem like yours.
It started to happy about a month ago, and it is getting wrose now. The engine just cut off while driving or even at a stop light. Sometimes I have to wait 2 minutes to start it... this situation is driving me crazy. I love my car but now I am afraid to take it out because I don't want it to die on the road again...
I have asked so many mechanics, and they all tell me different reason...: distributor, timing belt is not right(I have just changed my timing belt!), tuneup(I have just changed the wires, distributor cap, rotors, and sparks!!), fuel delivery( I use gas treatment every other gas tank!), or sensors..... I am completely lost!!!
stocksc300, if you have resoved the problem, please tell me how...or any other people knows it??? please help! I almost wanna cry!
It started to happy about a month ago, and it is getting wrose now. The engine just cut off while driving or even at a stop light. Sometimes I have to wait 2 minutes to start it... this situation is driving me crazy. I love my car but now I am afraid to take it out because I don't want it to die on the road again...
I have asked so many mechanics, and they all tell me different reason...: distributor, timing belt is not right(I have just changed my timing belt!), tuneup(I have just changed the wires, distributor cap, rotors, and sparks!!), fuel delivery( I use gas treatment every other gas tank!), or sensors..... I am completely lost!!!
stocksc300, if you have resoved the problem, please tell me how...or any other people knows it??? please help! I almost wanna cry!
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qouted directly from:http://web.ukonline.co.uk/soarertt/
"ECU Symptoms:
The car failing to start when warm is normally the first indication that the fuel pump ECU is playing up, some time afterwards it might exhibit other faults, misfire under load (fuel starvation), starting up and then dying, this can be quickly checked out using the routine below. A replacement ECU is about £180 +vat, I managed to get a secondhand one for £70 from a breaker and it is working fine. The ECU is located behind the passenger rear side panel (the arm rest bit), take out the rear seats and side panel, the ECU is bolted to the frame, (15 minute job)."
The following article courtesy of Steve Janda, Startrade:
"The fuel pump can be forced to operate in the high voltage setting by placing a jumper in the engine diagnostics connector between FP and +B terminals (for location of terminals see the label inside the diagnostics connector cover). A straightened up paper clip can be used as a jumper but must be inserted very deep in the terminals. This function is useful for checking that the fuel pump is not faulty (it can be heard running with the ignition on) and also to make the car mobile in case the fuel pump ECU is faulty. We strongly advise against driving the car for prolonged periods with the jumper inserted as the current draw of the pump in its high setting is about 7.3A and the pump may not have been designed to handle the load permanently and may overheat and seize, creating more (expensive) problems. At idle and under light loads the engine may be running rich due to increased fuel pressure"
I am not positive about USDM terminal posts and if they are the same as mentioned. I might recommend trying it.
edit: That is from a Brititsh article - therefore I am inclined to believe that the ecu will be in the same location but on the driver side for us. I don't have the owners manuals anymore - so I don't know for sure. Maybe the dealer or someone with acces to those manuals can assist you there.
"ECU Symptoms:
The car failing to start when warm is normally the first indication that the fuel pump ECU is playing up, some time afterwards it might exhibit other faults, misfire under load (fuel starvation), starting up and then dying, this can be quickly checked out using the routine below. A replacement ECU is about £180 +vat, I managed to get a secondhand one for £70 from a breaker and it is working fine. The ECU is located behind the passenger rear side panel (the arm rest bit), take out the rear seats and side panel, the ECU is bolted to the frame, (15 minute job)."
The following article courtesy of Steve Janda, Startrade:
"The fuel pump can be forced to operate in the high voltage setting by placing a jumper in the engine diagnostics connector between FP and +B terminals (for location of terminals see the label inside the diagnostics connector cover). A straightened up paper clip can be used as a jumper but must be inserted very deep in the terminals. This function is useful for checking that the fuel pump is not faulty (it can be heard running with the ignition on) and also to make the car mobile in case the fuel pump ECU is faulty. We strongly advise against driving the car for prolonged periods with the jumper inserted as the current draw of the pump in its high setting is about 7.3A and the pump may not have been designed to handle the load permanently and may overheat and seize, creating more (expensive) problems. At idle and under light loads the engine may be running rich due to increased fuel pressure"
I am not positive about USDM terminal posts and if they are the same as mentioned. I might recommend trying it.
edit: That is from a Brititsh article - therefore I am inclined to believe that the ecu will be in the same location but on the driver side for us. I don't have the owners manuals anymore - so I don't know for sure. Maybe the dealer or someone with acces to those manuals can assist you there.
Last edited by awj; 01-14-03 at 01:45 PM.
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Stocksc300, how was your result when you changed the fuel ecu?? I went to a regular mechanic today ask him to check it but his computer could not scan my car because SC requires a special code to access... so I went to the lexus dealer but they ask me for $100 just to check it and I have to leave my car there for 2 days!!!!!!!!!! hell no.... However, after I reset my ECU and dirve it with POWER on, the car has not stall for 2 days... well, I still so worry about it.... if you have any new idea, let me know.... thanks!
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i haved fix my problem, its only a fuse. i check all the fuse its the first thing i did since the car cuts off the first time. i change the fuel ecu, main computer,fuel filter, mass air nothing works. from my brothers car lucky i dont have to buy anything. so i got so mad i hit the fuse box inside the drivers foot rest, i saw the check engine light comes on i hit it again it does it again so i wiggle all the fuse thats when i notice the fuse was lose, i took the fuse out and bent booth ttip (one to the right and one to the left) looking at the bottom of the fuse. i think the terminal just got old. when you try that make sure the key is in the on position. good lock.
#30
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Ok, my car did this for the 1st time today. I was just sitting at a light and it died. Radio, vent, everything stayed on car just died. And when it did the check engine light came on. It started up right away and the check engine light went off. Sooo, i am confused about this thread. Could my problem only be a fuse?? I am due for a tune up and to replace the PSP but i dont want to wait another month to address this issue. Thanks for the help.