1jz HP (questions and answers)
12-24-02, 10:13 PM
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1jz HP
How much HP can be squeezed out of a 1jz engine? I have seen the ONLY aussie step by step article they did on the soarer, but the gains seem pretty low.
He posted that stock he did 136kw which is about 180 to the wheels. Supposedly he changed turbos, IC, tuned with S-AFC... and in the end he has a whole 200kw which is 268hp to the wheels. I dunno about you guys, but he only gained 80RWHP after replacing both turbos, replacing cats, and tuning.
Is there THAT much of a difference between a 2jz BPU supra and a 1jz BPU soarer?
He posted that stock he did 136kw which is about 180 to the wheels. Supposedly he changed turbos, IC, tuned with S-AFC... and in the end he has a whole 200kw which is 268hp to the wheels. I dunno about you guys, but he only gained 80RWHP after replacing both turbos, replacing cats, and tuning.
Is there THAT much of a difference between a 2jz BPU supra and a 1jz BPU soarer?
Last edited by Dimcorner; 12-25-02 at 12:30 AM.
12-25-02, 03:40 AM
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250kw at the wheels...
One of the magazine editors managed to get 250kw at the wheels on stock turbo's with bolt-ons and programable management. Standard engine block/head/internals/turbo's/blah.
Proven on two Dyno's.
Things he's changed (If I remember) :
- exhaust (full exhaust)
- Intercooler
- ECU
- Cut open stock airbox.
- Cams I think.
Proven on two Dyno's.
Things he's changed (If I remember) :
- exhaust (full exhaust)
- Intercooler
- ECU
- Cut open stock airbox.
- Cams I think.
12-25-02, 10:57 AM
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Hey, any of you miami guys wanna get together at towers or something on Fri? My girl is leaving to UF for school so i'm taking her to the show cuz she's never been there.
12-25-02, 10:59 AM
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Re: 250kw at the wheels...
Originally posted by Toan Nguyen
One of the magazine editors managed to get 250kw at the wheels on stock turbo's with bolt-ons and programable management. Standard engine block/head/internals/turbo's/blah.
Proven on two Dyno's.
Things he's changed (If I remember) :
- exhaust (full exhaust)
- Intercooler
- ECU
- Cut open stock airbox.
- Cams I think.
One of the magazine editors managed to get 250kw at the wheels on stock turbo's with bolt-ons and programable management. Standard engine block/head/internals/turbo's/blah.
Proven on two Dyno's.
Things he's changed (If I remember) :
- exhaust (full exhaust)
- Intercooler
- ECU
- Cut open stock airbox.
- Cams I think.
. I wonder if the 2jz supra cams would fit (i actually have a set i can get a hold of for cheap).What i'm going to try to do is head up to Pettit racing and chill with cam for a bit and see if i can get a base dyno pull on the car.
Last edited by Dimcorner; 12-25-02 at 11:00 AM.
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12-26-02, 01:28 AM
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are the 1JZ-GTE supposed to make the same HP as a 2JZ-GTE but lower torque because of the displacement? i have read and all of them say 280 (claimed on both the 2JZ and 1JZ) but with less torque for the 1JZ.
dunno could be wrong.
dunno could be wrong.
12-26-02, 08:42 AM
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Re: 1jz HP
Originally posted by Dimcorner
How much HP can be squeezed out of a 1jz engine? I have seen the ONLY aussie step by step article they did on the soarer, but the gains seem pretty low.
He posted that stock he did 136kw which is about 180 to the wheels. Supposedly he changed turbos, IC, tuned with S-AFC... and in the end he has a whole 200kw which is 268hp to the wheels. I dunno about you guys, but he only gained 80RWHP after replacing both turbos, replacing cats, and tuning.
Is there THAT much of a difference between a 2jz BPU supra and a 1jz BPU soarer?
How much HP can be squeezed out of a 1jz engine? I have seen the ONLY aussie step by step article they did on the soarer, but the gains seem pretty low.
He posted that stock he did 136kw which is about 180 to the wheels. Supposedly he changed turbos, IC, tuned with S-AFC... and in the end he has a whole 200kw which is 268hp to the wheels. I dunno about you guys, but he only gained 80RWHP after replacing both turbos, replacing cats, and tuning.
Is there THAT much of a difference between a 2jz BPU supra and a 1jz BPU soarer?
That's my ride that went from 136 to 200 rwkw.
A bit of background may explain it a little better - up untill now, it's been built purely as a daily driver so reliability and low down torque have been the aim not top end kw/hp and bragging rights. That's why I run and tune it for 0.95 bar - no more. Turbo swap was not for immediate power increase - only for reliability with Steel compressor wheels and ball bearing cores and the option to run larger garrett compressor and exhaust housings later ie GT2835 spec. My rwkw figures are Aussie Dyno Dynamics not US Dynojet figures - I'm informed that it equates to ~240rwkw/320rwhp on a US Dynojet.
Previously prior to the FMIC fitment and running the standard ECU with just the S-AFC piggybacking fuel control and the boost wound up to 1.5 bar, it ran 223rwkw - we decided against repeating it too often as the timing was all over the place with the factory ECU and slight pinging started up high.
Recently, we test ran it with a recently acquired FCON V and boost set at 1.6 bar - it pushed 248rwkw but was not sustainable as the wastegate actuators were having issues holding boost/controlling boost and I was starting to run too lean as expected - larger injectors, hiflo fuel pump and adjustable fuel pressure regulator await their fitment to the car in February.
I've switched back to factory ECU and normal boost until I return from my 5000+ mile trip - then the fun will start when I lean on it a little more. With a custom exhaust manfold, a pair of GT2835s, external wastegates, 1.6 bar, capable fuel system, CDI ignition and aftermarket ECU - I'm expecting a safe and predictable aussie 350rwkw; if I can redaily locate one, a 3 litre bottom end should push that to 400+.
For what it's worth, even with only the current daily 200 at the wheels, I've exceeded a safe street power level as traction is now a huge issue - I'll loose traction hitting the gas even in 3rd gear. Standing starts are difficult to get right as the torque just smokes the tyres with anything over 2500 rpm launches - an LSD is a definate must have now.
As far as 1Js go - one in South Australia in an MZ20 was running 600HP with a big single, others in SA and QLD in Soarers are running ~300rwkw and still in development and there are many 5-10 year old examples in Japan running 700/800HP on stock internals.
I'd suggest you don't use my basic powerup as a guide to the 1J's potential as it's intended function to date has not been to run big HP numbers.
As a comparison, the 1UZ powered Soarers(SC400) in their most modified NA form in Australia push about 150rwkw - the supercharged version being unveiled in January is expected to push about 200rwkw.
Sorry for the long post - Good luck with it.
01-06-03, 01:59 AM
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Re: Re: 1jz HP
Originally posted by Manny
Buddy
That's my ride that went from 136 to 200 rwkw.
A bit of background may explain it a little better - up untill now, it's been built purely as a daily driver so reliability and low down torque have been the aim not top end kw/hp and bragging rights. That's why I run and tune it for 0.95 bar - no more. Turbo swap was not for immediate power increase - only for reliability with Steel compressor wheels and ball bearing cores and the option to run larger garrett compressor and exhaust housings later ie GT2835 spec. My rwkw figures are Aussie Dyno Dynamics not US Dynojet figures - I'm informed that it equates to ~240rwkw/320rwhp on a US Dynojet.
Previously prior to the FMIC fitment and running the standard ECU with just the S-AFC piggybacking fuel control and the boost wound up to 1.5 bar, it ran 223rwkw - we decided against repeating it too often as the timing was all over the place with the factory ECU and slight pinging started up high.
Recently, we test ran it with a recently acquired FCON V and boost set at 1.6 bar - it pushed 248rwkw but was not sustainable as the wastegate actuators were having issues holding boost/controlling boost and I was starting to run too lean as expected - larger injectors, hiflo fuel pump and adjustable fuel pressure regulator await their fitment to the car in February.
I've switched back to factory ECU and normal boost until I return from my 5000+ mile trip - then the fun will start when I lean on it a little more. With a custom exhaust manfold, a pair of GT2835s, external wastegates, 1.6 bar, capable fuel system, CDI ignition and aftermarket ECU - I'm expecting a safe and predictable aussie 350rwkw; if I can redaily locate one, a 3 litre bottom end should push that to 400+.
For what it's worth, even with only the current daily 200 at the wheels, I've exceeded a safe street power level as traction is now a huge issue - I'll loose traction hitting the gas even in 3rd gear. Standing starts are difficult to get right as the torque just smokes the tyres with anything over 2500 rpm launches - an LSD is a definate must have now.
As far as 1Js go - one in South Australia in an MZ20 was running 600HP with a big single, others in SA and QLD in Soarers are running ~300rwkw and still in development and there are many 5-10 year old examples in Japan running 700/800HP on stock internals.
I'd suggest you don't use my basic powerup as a guide to the 1J's potential as it's intended function to date has not been to run big HP numbers.
As a comparison, the 1UZ powered Soarers(SC400) in their most modified NA form in Australia push about 150rwkw - the supercharged version being unveiled in January is expected to push about 200rwkw.
Sorry for the long post - Good luck with it.
Buddy
That's my ride that went from 136 to 200 rwkw.
A bit of background may explain it a little better - up untill now, it's been built purely as a daily driver so reliability and low down torque have been the aim not top end kw/hp and bragging rights. That's why I run and tune it for 0.95 bar - no more. Turbo swap was not for immediate power increase - only for reliability with Steel compressor wheels and ball bearing cores and the option to run larger garrett compressor and exhaust housings later ie GT2835 spec. My rwkw figures are Aussie Dyno Dynamics not US Dynojet figures - I'm informed that it equates to ~240rwkw/320rwhp on a US Dynojet.
Previously prior to the FMIC fitment and running the standard ECU with just the S-AFC piggybacking fuel control and the boost wound up to 1.5 bar, it ran 223rwkw - we decided against repeating it too often as the timing was all over the place with the factory ECU and slight pinging started up high.
Recently, we test ran it with a recently acquired FCON V and boost set at 1.6 bar - it pushed 248rwkw but was not sustainable as the wastegate actuators were having issues holding boost/controlling boost and I was starting to run too lean as expected - larger injectors, hiflo fuel pump and adjustable fuel pressure regulator await their fitment to the car in February.
I've switched back to factory ECU and normal boost until I return from my 5000+ mile trip - then the fun will start when I lean on it a little more. With a custom exhaust manfold, a pair of GT2835s, external wastegates, 1.6 bar, capable fuel system, CDI ignition and aftermarket ECU - I'm expecting a safe and predictable aussie 350rwkw; if I can redaily locate one, a 3 litre bottom end should push that to 400+.
For what it's worth, even with only the current daily 200 at the wheels, I've exceeded a safe street power level as traction is now a huge issue - I'll loose traction hitting the gas even in 3rd gear. Standing starts are difficult to get right as the torque just smokes the tyres with anything over 2500 rpm launches - an LSD is a definate must have now.
As far as 1Js go - one in South Australia in an MZ20 was running 600HP with a big single, others in SA and QLD in Soarers are running ~300rwkw and still in development and there are many 5-10 year old examples in Japan running 700/800HP on stock internals.
I'd suggest you don't use my basic powerup as a guide to the 1J's potential as it's intended function to date has not been to run big HP numbers.
As a comparison, the 1UZ powered Soarers(SC400) in their most modified NA form in Australia push about 150rwkw - the supercharged version being unveiled in January is expected to push about 200rwkw.
Sorry for the long post - Good luck with it.
jj thanks
01-06-03, 08:07 AM
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Buddy
It would be a very straight forward conversion on a RHD vehicle and is a sought after conversion locally.
I've never done it on a LHD vehicle, so I can't comment on how easy it would be. Look at steering, brake booster, clutch, loom entry points and see if they conflict with a RHD clip's location and components.
Good luck with - if you succeed, you'll be a very satisfied SC owner;VVTi 1J's are a brilliant setup.
It would be a very straight forward conversion on a RHD vehicle and is a sought after conversion locally.
I've never done it on a LHD vehicle, so I can't comment on how easy it would be. Look at steering, brake booster, clutch, loom entry points and see if they conflict with a RHD clip's location and components.
Good luck with - if you succeed, you'll be a very satisfied SC owner;VVTi 1J's are a brilliant setup.
01-06-03, 10:10 AM
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Manny,
what aftermarket ECU are you going to be running? I'm trying to find one for the soarer but so far i have come up with the following...
Blitz - reviews are not too good on this one...
Mine's VX - I'm hearing good things about it
Power FC - great computer (had it on my rx7) but it's only for manual transmission correct?
also....
does your car have a speed limiter and/or a boost limiter? If so, how did you get rid of them. StarTrade australia has a speed de-limiter for sale, but it's for a v8 only correct?
thanks in advance
what aftermarket ECU are you going to be running? I'm trying to find one for the soarer but so far i have come up with the following...
Blitz - reviews are not too good on this one...
Mine's VX - I'm hearing good things about it
Power FC - great computer (had it on my rx7) but it's only for manual transmission correct?
also....
does your car have a speed limiter and/or a boost limiter? If so, how did you get rid of them. StarTrade australia has a speed de-limiter for sale, but it's for a v8 only correct?
thanks in advance
01-06-03, 07:40 PM
#15
You can use a greddy emanage it will do your fuel and timing the only thing you can not move is the rev limiter and if your car is a auto it should be at about 7200rpm.If you have any questions drop me a pm.
Last edited by Dew23; 01-06-03 at 07:40 PM.