1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

My swap has been quite well, but I have noticed in the past few weeks that the wide band, after warming up and driving, that it bounces back and forth badly. From 12.4 to showing 17-18. The needle for idle is moving up and down just a tad, but you hear the car with the irregular idle. Its like its missing. I replaced the plugs with NGK copper ones, gapped at .025, and still doing the same thing. I inspected the coils, and found one with a slight crack, but nothing that would be a major concern to me, in my opinion. The other issue is when the AC is on the idle is quite smooth and the wide band stays at 10.8-11.2 the whole time, for the most part. The problem with the AC on is when I come to a stop or slow down. When I engage the clutch, and the rpm's drop, sometimes the car shuts off, and everyone knows this a bad thing, due to loss of steering and brakes. I wired the AC from the 1JZ harness through the patch harness to the AEM V2. I used A17 and A27 to kick the AC on as normal. This options works great, but I am unsure why the AEM is not recognizing the compressor on and keep it under load, to eliminate the stalling. I haven't been in the AEM settings since I received the car back from Zen Motors and its tuning by Batlground. The last issue is the car now is starting buck and kick when my foot is slightly on the gas pedal. This again is after the warms up and in any gear. Its like the clutch is not all the way out, is the best way I can describe it. The whole car is jerking, and not acting right. If I stay on the gas a little more, the problem with the bucking and surging goes away. At 90 mph, its completely gone and I can stay at that point in the gas the whole time. I am thinking all of these issue is in the AEM settings and the tune needs to be looked at. On a side note, at completely cold starts, the wide band is showing 10.0 - 10.3, and it runs good without this bucking issue, nor the AC problem. This is why I am leaning towards the AEM settings and ruling out sensors on the block. The tuner also told me that knock sensors are off, due to them possibly going bad. I don't know if this good or bad, to be honest. This is my first build as many of you know, and I am unfamiliar with the settings in the AEM. If there is something I can look at motor wise, please chime in to where to start. This stalling and bucking is getting old, and getting old rather fast.

The mod list are in my signature. If you need more, post up.


I appreciate any guidance, and yes, sometimes even the moderators need a little help.



I also thought about bad motor mounts, or bushing on drive shaft, or the bushings on the rear end, but is this even an option, for the bucking and surging issue????

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Sounds like possible aic motor failure. I remember all the wiring woes you had with your car though, so it could be a wiring issue as well.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Also look for vacuum leaks. Can you check the map values while the car is acting up?

SFrymyah

iTrader: (4)

This. A large boost leak could be at fault. Also, get some large shrink tubing and cover the crack in the coil, no matter how small it may seem. Glue Lined heat shink is the way to go on those if you have access to it.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

How do I need do this?

Did you mean IACV? The IACV is wired along with ignitor to a 12volt switched relay by the AEM. I wonder if I cleaned it, would it help?

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Yeah iacv. I would verify the connections to it. Not sure what the procedure is for diagnosing it other than remove it and see if it moves. I'm sure there is some documented procedure that you can dig out of a fsrm.

As far as vacuum leaks, you can use the old carb cleaner method, but that tends to get hazardous. First, check physically for cracked, loose, or melted vacuum lines under the hood. Check all intercooler piping and connectors for signs of leaks. Since you have a fully capable ems, I would just log a few runs and either look through them for discrepancies yourself or send them to a capable tuner for review.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I will look into this in the next few days. I will report back my findings. What about the car dying with the AC on and the surging/bucking??? Any thoughts on this?

mattjk

iTrader: (1)

Clean your aic motor. Also there is a filter on the manifold when you remove your aic motor. My 1jz aic filter was clogged with the head of a zip tie! God knows how that got there... anyhow that fixed my idle issue.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

on the aem you have to tune where the idle is set, and there are lots of parameters that go into it.
also when the idle is off the ecu starts to look at the correction maps and usually things start to swing back and forth, so I would look there and at the aem parameters to see if all the sensors are reading right.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Surging is usually a lean condition. Fueling is generally controlled by MAP, TP, and (optionally)O2 feedback. If any of these sensors are bad or intermittent, you will have potential fueling issues. Stalling can be an issue with fueling, timing, IACV, or any combination of the above. Because your EMS holds static values, tuning should not be the issue in theory. I would suspect vacuum leaks or sensor failure. Not to sound like a broken record, but datalogging will go a long way towards diagnosis here. Good luck, and keep us posted

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I have to agree with the surging being lean, just by watching the wide band. I will first check the simple stupid stuff first, like the intercooler piping and fitings, then the IACV filter, then the vacuum lines, then try and read the maps on the AEM. If any of these even look bad, I will replace with new ones. I might do it anyway, just for piece of mind. I hope to goodness it is not the vacuum lines under the intake manifld. What a pain to work with.

Adam, if any of the sensors would normally go bad, which would you check first? Remember the knock sensors are disabled. Thats what the tuner told me when I picked up the car from Zen. If they are indeed bad, are the 2JZ GE or 2JZGTE the same, or strictly 1JZ? I am trying to narrow down what to do, if it comes to these.

I appreciate all the help in this fella's.. If I cant figure it out, it will go to the local tuner, which I dont trust.

Lastly, if the filter looks bad behind the IACV, how do i clean it? Or does it need to be replaced all together? i was thinking carb cleaner and blow it dry with compressed air. I do know the 2JZGTE filter is bigger.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Is this video something to go by by setting up the idle and AC settings?

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

I read through your first post again and have a couple more sensors to check. The intake air temp and coolant temp sensors. Since the car seems to run better cold, it stands to reason that one of these sensors could be a problem. Honestly, since you are standalone, I am not sure which sensor would be the prime suspect. I know that my car had the opposite problem. When it was cold, it would surge badly, but it ran great once hot. It turned out to be my o2. I doubt your tune even looks at o2, so that is probably not your issue.

You can check all of your sensors pretty easily with the aem. Just open the tuner software and watch the values real time, or datalog them. You should also check the tps. That one is quick and easy as you can turn the key on engine off and floor the car. You will see the tps reading change in a linear fashion if it is good. Sorry I'm not much more help. A tuner I am not!

Ps, speaking of tune, I would not change any parameters in the tune yet. If the car ran good and suddenly started acting up, the tune should not be the problem. I would rule out sensors and components first.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

Adam, I appreciate any help in resolving this issue. Any guidance is better than what I started with the first time around. I also spoke with Roger (blk&blue screen name on here), and he is also in concern with the sensors, due to normally it taking two sensors to act or work together. He also stated that for me to check the timing, cam and crank sensors. He brought up some good points, and felt like it wasnt the IACV, but it could be. Just him describing things over the phone is much better for me to understand than reading. He explains things quite well and he is supper knwoledgable on these things, not saying no one else is on here. I will be able to investigate more later this week.

I also called a local guy who works on JZ motors, and he seems to helpful too. He told me to come by his house and he will take a look at it on Sunday, if i couldnt figure the problem out. He is the one that told me to review the above youtube video before I even posted it.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

Sounds like you have some strong resources on tap. With all the good help on cl, you should be able to work through it. Keep us posted pal.