I'm hitting boostcut @3500 rpm with my boost completely turn off
06-25-13, 11:03 AM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I'm hitting boostcut @3500 rpm with my boost completely turn off
hey guys,
attached is a picture of my car. I first did my jzgte swap in the summer of 2010 and it was 100% till I did some upgrades.
single conversion
Borgwaerner S362 Turbo
Driftmotion 44mm wastegate
SD 650 HI injectors
FPR? adjusted to factory spec
AEm wideband
AEm 35psi boost gage
3" exhaust all out with a High Flow Cat
3" intercooler piping
#' thick intercooler
CxRacing trans cooler
Wilbro 255 FP
manual boost controller.
these are just about the upgrades so far on the car.
I haven't been able to really drive my car like I used to with the stock twins setup. when I hit 3500 rpms it starts to basically pop and shut down. at first I thought it was a ignition problem/ spark plus and or coils. replaces three new coils and the plugs. it didn't fixed the problem, did some swapping to different cylinders with the coils but still the same. did some research and founded out that I was actually hitting boost/fuel cut.
funny thing here is I shouldn't hit boostcut till i"m way over the stock 10/11 psi which i'm not even sure of sine everybody have their own number of the stock boost. My boost gage only reads vacuum and stop at 0 when im driving but does not read boost. the car does still build up boost from the feel of the pull before the cut is activated. I've checked everything I can possibly think of and I still cant figure out what's going on. for the boost source I have my boost line hooked up to the back of the TB where I assumed would be the best place for a boost tap but still nothing. if I baby the car it runs fine but it doesn't take WOT. Please Please help me with some ideas I've owned the car since 09 when it wasn't anything like it looks like today and I've done everything on it myself. I can answer all the questions you guys would need to know to help but I really want to figure out why the boostcut and not reading anyboost. Im not sure if I have the vacuuming routed wrong when I did the conversion or I have a fuel pump problem but if that I should experience the problem at idle too. any input would be appreciated. thanks in advance.
attached is a picture of my car. I first did my jzgte swap in the summer of 2010 and it was 100% till I did some upgrades.
single conversion
Borgwaerner S362 Turbo
Driftmotion 44mm wastegate
SD 650 HI injectors
FPR? adjusted to factory spec
AEm wideband
AEm 35psi boost gage
3" exhaust all out with a High Flow Cat
3" intercooler piping
#' thick intercooler
CxRacing trans cooler
Wilbro 255 FP
manual boost controller.
these are just about the upgrades so far on the car.
I haven't been able to really drive my car like I used to with the stock twins setup. when I hit 3500 rpms it starts to basically pop and shut down. at first I thought it was a ignition problem/ spark plus and or coils. replaces three new coils and the plugs. it didn't fixed the problem, did some swapping to different cylinders with the coils but still the same. did some research and founded out that I was actually hitting boost/fuel cut.
funny thing here is I shouldn't hit boostcut till i"m way over the stock 10/11 psi which i'm not even sure of sine everybody have their own number of the stock boost. My boost gage only reads vacuum and stop at 0 when im driving but does not read boost. the car does still build up boost from the feel of the pull before the cut is activated. I've checked everything I can possibly think of and I still cant figure out what's going on. for the boost source I have my boost line hooked up to the back of the TB where I assumed would be the best place for a boost tap but still nothing. if I baby the car it runs fine but it doesn't take WOT. Please Please help me with some ideas I've owned the car since 09 when it wasn't anything like it looks like today and I've done everything on it myself. I can answer all the questions you guys would need to know to help but I really want to figure out why the boostcut and not reading anyboost. Im not sure if I have the vacuuming routed wrong when I did the conversion or I have a fuel pump problem but if that I should experience the problem at idle too. any input would be appreciated. thanks in advance.
Last edited by Mr.Gs_GTE; 06-25-13 at 11:26 AM.
06-25-13, 12:27 PM
#2
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: New Jersey
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How does your car know it has bigger injectors? Are you running some sort of piggy back (SAFC)? I see you have an upgraded FPR but is it an FMU meanining it will actually raise fuel pressure on boost level. An example would be a 12:1. It will raise fuel pressure by 12 psi for every 1psi of boost.
06-25-13, 01:22 PM
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
How does your car know it has bigger injectors? Are you running some sort of piggy back (SAFC)? I see you have an upgraded FPR but is it an FMU meanining it will actually raise fuel pressure on boost level. An example would be a 12:1. It will raise fuel pressure by 12 psi for every 1psi of boost.
06-25-13, 01:29 PM
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I can check again but all my piping are tight and well connected. if I may ask where is the best place to tap for a boost source? and do you think the way I routed the vacuum lines after I got rid of the iac motor could be a possible cause? like if you go single, do you at all have any vacuum lines connected to the pressure tank below the Intake manifold? and there are two metal vacuum ports that sticks up at the back of the turbo down pipe that I used a rubber hose and connected together I'll post a pic of that later as well as the way the vacuum hose is connected for the FPR and the map sensor.
06-25-13, 01:35 PM
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=sj408;8007982]what ecu are you running? sounds like a bad map sensor to me..... but thats only because i had the same issue with my aristo ecu[/QUO
Stock ECU/jdm.
Stock ECU/jdm.
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06-25-13, 01:49 PM
#8
bad map sensor probably wouldn't run well most of the time if at all. It could very well be your routing of stuff causing the leak, but I couldn't follow your description well enough I have not gone from twins to single before, but I bet if you take a high resolution picture of the questionable area it would take some of these guys like a minute to tell you how to hook it up.
the reason it can idle well and drive well is that jdm is map sensor based and its on the intake manifold, so no matter what kind of leak you have there is still vac in the manifold and the map sensor is happy, all the way up to zero vac, but no matter how hard that turbo pumps air it will just leak out, and with 660cc injectors and no fuel controller with that missing boost you are probably running so rich the engine is probably not sparking well at all.
the reason it can idle well and drive well is that jdm is map sensor based and its on the intake manifold, so no matter what kind of leak you have there is still vac in the manifold and the map sensor is happy, all the way up to zero vac, but no matter how hard that turbo pumps air it will just leak out, and with 660cc injectors and no fuel controller with that missing boost you are probably running so rich the engine is probably not sparking well at all.
06-25-13, 01:55 PM
#9
Intermediate
Thread Starter
bad map sensor probably wouldn't run well most of the time if at all. It could very well be your routing of stuff causing the leak, but I couldn't follow your description well enough I have not gone from twins to single before, but I bet if you take a high resolution picture of the questionable area it would take some of these guys like a minute to tell you how to hook it up.
06-25-13, 02:24 PM
#10
[QUOTE=Mr.Gs_GTE;8007986]
Check out your map sensor Ali is probably right, but i had an issue where i couldnt go past 3k unless i babied it and it was map. on the jdm aristo ecu
Actually believe it or not, another member and i had bad maps that exhibited this similar issue. Ran great until getting into boost around 3kish and hitting a wall.
bad map sensor probably wouldn't run well most of the time if at all. It could very well be your routing of stuff causing the leak, but I couldn't follow your description well enough I have not gone from twins to single before, but I bet if you take a high resolution picture of the questionable area it would take some of these guys like a minute to tell you how to hook it up.
the reason it can idle well and drive well is that jdm is map sensor based and its on the intake manifold, so no matter what kind of leak you have there is still vac in the manifold and the map sensor is happy, all the way up to zero vac, but no matter how hard that turbo pumps air it will just leak out, and with 660cc injectors and no fuel controller with that missing boost you are probably running so rich the engine is probably not sparking well at all.
the reason it can idle well and drive well is that jdm is map sensor based and its on the intake manifold, so no matter what kind of leak you have there is still vac in the manifold and the map sensor is happy, all the way up to zero vac, but no matter how hard that turbo pumps air it will just leak out, and with 660cc injectors and no fuel controller with that missing boost you are probably running so rich the engine is probably not sparking well at all.
Actually believe it or not, another member and i had bad maps that exhibited this similar issue. Ran great until getting into boost around 3kish and hitting a wall.
06-25-13, 02:42 PM
#11
Intermediate
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=sj408;8008080]
Check out your map sensor Ali is probably right, but i had an issue where i couldnt go past 3k unless i babied it and it was map. on the jdm aristo ecu
Actually believe it or not, another member and i had bad maps that exhibited this similar issue. Ran great until getting into boost around 3kish and hitting a wall.
did you get the OE one as a replacement or went with a bigger Bar rating map sensor? just curious.
Check out your map sensor Ali is probably right, but i had an issue where i couldnt go past 3k unless i babied it and it was map. on the jdm aristo ecu
Actually believe it or not, another member and i had bad maps that exhibited this similar issue. Ran great until getting into boost around 3kish and hitting a wall.
06-25-13, 02:46 PM
#12
Intermediate
Thread Starter
bad map sensor probably wouldn't run well most of the time if at all. It could very well be your routing of stuff causing the leak, but I couldn't follow your description well enough I have not gone from twins to single before, but I bet if you take a high resolution picture of the questionable area it would take some of these guys like a minute to tell you how to hook it up.
the reason it can idle well and drive well is that jdm is map sensor based and its on the intake manifold, so no matter what kind of leak you have there is still vac in the manifold and the map sensor is happy, all the way up to zero vac, but no matter how hard that turbo pumps air it will just leak out, and with 660cc injectors and no fuel controller with that missing boost you are probably running so rich the engine is probably not sparking well at all.
the reason it can idle well and drive well is that jdm is map sensor based and its on the intake manifold, so no matter what kind of leak you have there is still vac in the manifold and the map sensor is happy, all the way up to zero vac, but no matter how hard that turbo pumps air it will just leak out, and with 660cc injectors and no fuel controller with that missing boost you are probably running so rich the engine is probably not sparking well at all.
06-25-13, 02:52 PM
#13
Check out your map sensor Ali is probably right, but i had an issue where i couldnt go past 3k unless i babied it and it was map. on the jdm aristo ecu
Actually believe it or not, another member and i had bad maps that exhibited this similar issue. Ran great until getting into boost around 3kish and hitting a wall.
you would want to get a replacement, its the only one that works right with the stock ecu.
06-25-13, 03:51 PM
#14
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Okay here guys this is how I have the boost controller hooked up. Lmk if I'm wrong.
T adaptor with the arrow going to the wastegate, coming from the turbo pressure port, the middle leg goes to the controller itself and the other could be left open but I have it going back to the intake. Is everything good?
T adaptor with the arrow going to the wastegate, coming from the turbo pressure port, the middle leg goes to the controller itself and the other could be left open but I have it going back to the intake. Is everything good?
06-25-13, 03:55 PM
#15
Okay here guys this is how I have the boost controller hooked up. Lmk if I'm wrong.
T adaptor with the arrow going to the wastegate, coming from the turbo pressure port, the middle leg goes to the controller itself and the other could be left open but I have it going back to the intake. Is everything good?
T adaptor with the arrow going to the wastegate, coming from the turbo pressure port, the middle leg goes to the controller itself and the other could be left open but I have it going back to the intake. Is everything good?