Badass240

Hey guys,

I just a few questions about tuning my car I don't know if I'm even in the right part of the forum. If I'm not can a mod move me to where this needs to be thanks.

Ok on to the questions at hand let me start by telling you alittle about my car. I have a 1jz-gte out of a soar. The motor it self is stock nothing done internally. I am how ever on a single turbo setup with just a eBay turbo and 550cc us spec injectors with 255 fuel pump. I'm tuning with a safc2 and so far the car has seen 400 on pump gas and 500 on 112oct.

So now that I told u alittle about my car let me ask a few questions if that's ok. I'm alittle new to tuning so bare with me. I heard that a 1jz is safe for about 400 wheel on pump gas with my set up what I would like to do is set up 3 setting on my tune. I just need to know about how much power will my car be safe for lower race gas for example lets say on boost control off I run 400whp on pump then on low boost (boost controller on) and run 105oct race gas then on high boost run 112. The reason I'm trying to do this is I would like to run 93 daily then when I go out and mess around run 105(cause I have that oct all around me very easy to get) then run 112+ oct for track.

I just need to know if the car can run 400 on pump how much can it run on 105 and other higher grade octane? I understand that is I had a standalone I can daily 500whp on pump gas and I understand that I can run about 430-450whp with cams I just don't have that and I'm not getting it anytime soon. So I'm working with what I have. If anyone can chime in and let me know how much power is safe for different octanes will help me a lot.

Thank you very much for your time and help.

1JZPWRD

iTrader: (59)

I still think your goal of 400 is reachable, even with 93 octane. This is if you have a good tune. You stated that if you had cams and a standalone, you could reach 500, that is also very true. I have both and just over the 500RWHP on 93 octane. I never got my car tuned for race gas. Even with a piggyback, you should be safe within the motor limits as LONG AS YOU HAVE A GOOD SAFE, RELAIBLE TUNER AND TUNE. You can have 10K under the hood or more, and if you have a bad tuner, you could blow in one pull.. Tune is key. I say take it to someone who is relaible and trust worthy, and understands your setup specifically, not some Joe Blow down the street. Stay within the 11.2 or below on full boost and you should be ok. This is only my opinion and my experience with my 1JZGTE. GL


I have a few questions:

What wastegate spring do you have?
What fuel pump?
What Ebay turbo exaclty, in specs?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Bingo!!

Badass240

so ur telling me I can't squeeze alittle more with 105oct like 430 440 range? Right now I'm making about 400whp. U don't think I can get 430-440 safely with 105? It just sucks cause when I go out with friends for the night I have to spend 200.00 on 10gals Of gas and that goes to quick after that I'm back to be the slow guy. That's why I was thinking if I run 105 I can't get that extra 30 to 40 horse might help me out.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

disclaimer: I am not a 1jz expert by any means.
by deduction if you can run 400 on pump, and 500 on race, so with 105 that is roughly inbetween you could probably get away with 440-50 if you really need that extra power. keep the air fuel ratios safe and go from there. I would try going 1 or 2 psi up at a time. You know the engine can handle the 500 its just a matter of not detonating which the 105 should help as long as the safc isn't bumping up the timing too much.

Badass240

I need someone that has experience in this that can chime in and help out I need for sure answer not guesses. I don't want to pop a 3k motor for nothing. I know ur helping the best u can and I thank you very much I'm just wanting to take a extra step and make sure 1000% about this before I mess my motor up

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I understand, maybe someone will chime with more experience but do realize that was not a pure guess.
I told you how to figure out yourself where to set your motor at, because every motor is a little different.
what made you stop at 400 on pump gas? were you monitoring knock via the safc? did you add the extra octane just as extra insurance or did you know you actually needed it?

I actually did a search and found people claiming 450 on the stock ecu on pump gas, but i can't see myself squeezing the last 50hp out of my motor just from what someone on the internet is going to tell you. If that was the case there would be no need to tune each car and all the basemaps would run every engine the same.

your original question is what is safe at the different octane levels, and 1JZPWRD with 1jz experience told you 400 which is what you are running.
Everyone has pretty much established long ago that 400 is "safe". after that you need a "tune".

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

How about skip a few $200 gas weekends, buy a real ecu, and then make decent power? You are leaving a lot on the table with the stock ecu. But from some of your responses it sounds like you just wanna be told what you want to hear, so **** it. Crank it up.

PS: 1jz is not a 3k motor, so pop the **** out of it who cares? 1.5j for 500$ all day long after initial 1j cost.

INTIMAZY

iTrader: (5)

I don't think there is going to be a reliable answer to this.

How many psi are you pushing anyway and on what turbo?

Keep in mind your SAFC is advancing timing on you the more psi it sees OR the more fuel you need to add. Either of those conditions bring you closer to the magical 'edge'. In theory, if you have a massive turbo with massive injectors and all you are doing is pulling fuel via SAFC or running low psi, you can make massive power and be pretty safe. However, the stock ECU doesn't like big injectors at stock fuel pressures so you would be fighting an uphill battle there again.

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

^^^^^^^ Touche^^^^^^^^

You can safely run 700 if you have the turbo, injectors, fuel pumps,a real computer to keep everything on track.
5-7 yrs ago I ran around on a 264 cam stock 1J with an Safc on a 67mm at 600hp for almost 3 yes with no issues on 110 octane.
But I would not recommend experimenting they way I do (just for fun) to see the thresholds and deliberately try to brake them.

My suggestion get a standalone and a good tuner your comfortable with and report back then I'm sure myself and others will give you a more precise recipe to the power you seek.
BTW: 3 maps is absurd and not necessary.!!!!!!!! GL

Badass240

Well so far I have made 400 @ 18psi and with 112oct I made 500+ @ 28psi.
From what I have been told 400 is the most u can get from pump gas that how I new when to stop. Also I guess I might be misleading everyone with my question that I'm trying to ask.

My question is if I can max out at about 400 wheel on 93oct pump gas then how much would be max on on let's say 105oct. How do I figur out if I'm maxed out on that octane or not. We all know that 400 wheel on pump gas (93octane) with a safc is caped. We know this cause so many people has done it. I trying to understand how do u know when that's all u can get out of that one octane.

I hope this clears up my question and sorry if I didn't explain my self correctly the first time.

P.s
I was reading online about the safc2 knock monitoring and this is what came up witch I find this to be true cause I heard this so many time.

The "knock monitoring" that the SAFC II does is just comparing the trained noise levels at various RPM from the current noise levels. Not even worth connecting the wire up for since it doesn't tell you what the ECU is seeing.

Although mine is connected and working. I just don't no how to read the numbers I don't no what to look for. I just pretty much watch my a/f and make sure that I'm not learning out and I stay in the line that I know. How do I know if the knock number is a bad or if I'm good.

blk&blu*j

iTrader: (1)

Because your piggy backing the factory ECU it will handle the Knock issue I did not worry about that at these levels the stock ECU is capable.
Also 400 on 93 is definitely not he max hp on that fuel. Using 112 octane as an example can and will supply plenty of safety (regarding detonation) but at the same time on these HP#'s it is actually bleeding hp#'s and way more than you need for 500 hp as an example.
Remember the higher the octane the slower the fuel burns in the chamber hence the reason you can build more power cause it quenches the (cools)piston better, and there by reducing predetonation allowing more timing and margin for safety at higher hp#'s.

Remember the internet is only a parrot it spits out what its heard not necessarily what is right.



Sorry but it speaks volumes.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Believe it or not this is the way a standalone will monitor knock also and is much more helpfull.
The standalone has 2 values, raw knock, and knock. The raw knock tells you the voltage from the knock sensor, but the voltage on this will increase with rpm's even though the engine is running perfectly fine, thats called your knock baseline. once a tuner records that baseline, the knock value displayed is the current voltage minus the baseline, so you know how much additional knock you have that isn't supposed to be there normally. Just seeing the raw knock values on a safc with no way to log them would be useless because you would have to on the fly know what the baseline is.

In short when that difference number on your safc starts to climb, you are knocking from boost, otherwise it should be more or less stable if that is indeed how it works. You may be right in that the trained values might not be all that accurate, but if you are knocking off the charts it will probably let you know I would think.
Blk&Blu is right the stock ecu is capable of dealing with some knock and it will pull back for you.

there is also a datalogger you can build that will let you monitor all your stuff much more accurately and directly, spoolxexo made a thread on it here.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ger-found.html

with your compression you should be fine going up a little higher on boost even on pump gas, but once you start getting closer to the limit of your octane it helps to know exactly what is going on.

Badass240

Again let me start by Saying i deeply appreciate everyone that is taking time in sharing this very helpful info to me.

Now back to the matter at hand. I think I recall my knock at idle was 7? I'm not sure if it was 100% that number or not but I think that's what I seen. Now under woot I have been busy watching the road, a/f gauge, rpms, boost gauge that I haven't really had that extra sec to look at it nor did I understand till now. So what I'll do is do a pull and see what the number does. If the number climbs high then that's bad what a base line where this number is normaly?

Thanks.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

that sounds like it isn't the baseline and that is just the total value, I doubt you are knocking any extra than normal at idle. it will be hard to do it with that you will need to see what the normals are normally and then after you increase the boost a little and do the difference yourself.

If you build the datalogger cable and install that software you can see all the values in realtime from the ecu and it will make a whole lot more sense to any tuner.