DIY: Tap 2JZGE Valvecovers for fittings
09-05-13, 07:33 PM
#16
1JZ Single SC400
iTrader: (59)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Alabama, Roll Tide!
Posts: 8,518
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes
on
12 Posts
Now on Jays car, both of his valve covers are vented to the top of his DP, at a Wye. It looks kinda weird to be honest. Whats the pros and cons of that???? I have seen so many setups and configurations, I am kinda unsure which direction to go.
09-06-13, 07:38 AM
#17
I am not sure how far you can put it that won't smell, most places in the bay will be picked up by the a/c.
maybe just having 2 lines going to your can will help, you will probably get less blowby so maybe it won't smell as bad. I would first remedy the Tee problem, and maybe later worry about the -12 line, main seals are not fun to replace.
yeah, some do the evacuation into the exhaust, the idea is with those check valves into the exhaust at an angle you will get some vacuum on the crank case. It works but I don't know all the pro's and con's of it I worry about the amount of flow through the check valves and the potential for failure, but there are less smells and nothing to empty but all that oil gets in your exhaust and cat. It really depends on a drag car that would be a good setup but I have seen it on street supra's as well.
maybe just having 2 lines going to your can will help, you will probably get less blowby so maybe it won't smell as bad. I would first remedy the Tee problem, and maybe later worry about the -12 line, main seals are not fun to replace.
yeah, some do the evacuation into the exhaust, the idea is with those check valves into the exhaust at an angle you will get some vacuum on the crank case. It works but I don't know all the pro's and con's of it I worry about the amount of flow through the check valves and the potential for failure, but there are less smells and nothing to empty but all that oil gets in your exhaust and cat. It really depends on a drag car that would be a good setup but I have seen it on street supra's as well.
09-06-13, 05:12 PM
#20
1JZ Single SC400
iTrader: (59)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Alabama, Roll Tide!
Posts: 8,518
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes
on
12 Posts
Thank you guys for the insight. I will ponder over all the options and see what I decide. For now I like the looks of my setup. I will keep the catch can and keep the AC on recirculating. .. lol
Till the day I get bored.... lol
Thanks Ali
Till the day I get bored.... lol
Thanks Ali
09-09-13, 02:17 PM
#21
yeah I can understand not wanting to redo all those lines and fittings, definitely not inexpensive but easier than doing the main seal. I might have blown mine the other day I am hoping it was just a one time leak from a very hard pull and I have lighter oil in there right now, so gonna put in the regular weight and hope for the best I am not getting under there anytime soon too many projects!!
11-20-13, 12:40 AM
#22
Driver
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Washington
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im reading tons of threads on ffim and valve covers tonight but haven't seen this anywhere else. what is benefit? i just replaced my pvc valves on mine but if its better to replace them then i will do this. i have a catch can so its not blowing into my compressor/IC piping
11-20-13, 10:22 AM
#23
well most people who put on a nice shiny new intake don't want the pcv running into it. the little bit of oil will get the inside of the intake dirty over time and the oil vapor effectively reduces your octane rating when it enters the chamber with the gas. this is good and fine under regular driving and even though the pcv does shut under boost, there is still going to be some degree of oil/ oil vapor in the intake that will increase your chances of detonation. same with if you have your catch can plummed back into the intake pipe on your turbo, the oil will also end up in your manifold over time (which is why they look black carbon build up like when you take the stock manifold off).
After like a year or running a FFIM with no pcv, no egr, and the catch can not routed to the intake, my FFIM was as clean as the day I installed it onto the engine.
that is just one aspect though, the other aspect is if you run high amounts of boost or even over like 14 psi, you will start to get some blowby depending on the condition of the motor and oil pump pressure etc..
If you find a ton of oil in your catch can or you are blowing out main front or rear seals, that means the passenger side is not big enough to do its job of evacuating crank case gases.
how you would help this then is to remove the pcv and tap it, and run an extra line to your catch can. this doubles your evacuating power, so the seals do not experience as much pressure at a time, and you will also get less oil collecting in your catch can because the pressure is more distributed. hope that made sense.
The only downside is that you loose some positive sealing from the pcv during regular driving (out of boost), but its hardly noticeable and the turbo more than makes up for the small loss in power from negative crank case pressure.
for low boost and the stock intake I recommend just running passenger side to a can, and pcv to stock intake just like it is stock.
when you go higher boost and are collecting oil, or you want your intake to not get all pcv'd up, then you tap the pcv side and run that to the can also.
DO NOT TEE the 2 lines together before the can. If you do that then from the crank case perspective there is still just 1 line on there and that is the size of the line you tee into. in some instances it is OK to Tee the lines together if the third line going to the intake is one or 2 AN sizes larger than the 2 lines coming into the Tee (like 2x -10AN coming into 1x -12AN, but I would still stay away from such a setup as it will be more turbulent and restrictive than 2 direct lines.
After like a year or running a FFIM with no pcv, no egr, and the catch can not routed to the intake, my FFIM was as clean as the day I installed it onto the engine.
that is just one aspect though, the other aspect is if you run high amounts of boost or even over like 14 psi, you will start to get some blowby depending on the condition of the motor and oil pump pressure etc..
If you find a ton of oil in your catch can or you are blowing out main front or rear seals, that means the passenger side is not big enough to do its job of evacuating crank case gases.
how you would help this then is to remove the pcv and tap it, and run an extra line to your catch can. this doubles your evacuating power, so the seals do not experience as much pressure at a time, and you will also get less oil collecting in your catch can because the pressure is more distributed. hope that made sense.
The only downside is that you loose some positive sealing from the pcv during regular driving (out of boost), but its hardly noticeable and the turbo more than makes up for the small loss in power from negative crank case pressure.
for low boost and the stock intake I recommend just running passenger side to a can, and pcv to stock intake just like it is stock.
when you go higher boost and are collecting oil, or you want your intake to not get all pcv'd up, then you tap the pcv side and run that to the can also.
DO NOT TEE the 2 lines together before the can. If you do that then from the crank case perspective there is still just 1 line on there and that is the size of the line you tee into. in some instances it is OK to Tee the lines together if the third line going to the intake is one or 2 AN sizes larger than the 2 lines coming into the Tee (like 2x -10AN coming into 1x -12AN, but I would still stay away from such a setup as it will be more turbulent and restrictive than 2 direct lines.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 11-20-13 at 10:26 AM.
11-20-13, 05:26 PM
#24
1JZ Single SC400
iTrader: (59)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Alabama, Roll Tide!
Posts: 8,518
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes
on
12 Posts
This is what has happened to me. I have blown out 2 rear main seals. I have mine wyd with the same size fitting. I will be fixing this issue when I get back into town.
11-20-13, 06:36 PM
#25
Driver
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Washington
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks for the explanation, ill have to do this as rear main go out all the time on these. mine might have a tiny bit of seepage, although its got 140k on the engine so probably typical. ill pull these pcv's back out and pull the cam covers off and yeah...like the guide says. since my engine bay is all tore apart anyhow.
11-21-13, 10:03 AM
#28
yeah it should be fine to leave them like that but if you are venting both sides to a can you could get rid of those but I wouldn't go out of my way to do it those lines help equalize the pressure on the intake and exhaust side of the crank case.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
