When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have been doing lots of research online in regards to head swaps.
Putting a 2jzge vvti head onto a non vvti 2jzge means there wont be
a distributor when going NA-T and will allow for the use of coil packs.
What is needed to put a vvti head onto the GE block? (generally)
Will i be able to use my factory 2jzge wiring harness in my supra (2001 jdm)
or will i need to use a vvti wiring harness.
I understand this question has been asked in regards to swapping for GTE heads
and blocks many times however i dont think this has been discussed before.
Any information would be appreciated
The head will bolt right up. But you will now need two different oil feeds that you don't currently have. One for turbo and one for the vvti solenoid, which should prob be close to -6. You can in fact use your factory harness. After you extensively, super extensively modify it.
Or you could read the gte ecu for na/t thread here and realize its be simple and easy for the coil packs and blah blah blah.
Unless you're just absolutely dead set on vvti. I like it a lot and daily a 1j vvti. But someone tuning vvti it will never be as efficient as Toyota made it.
To play devils advocate, figure out the oil feed setup and use 440cc injectors and a jzx100 1jzgte vvti ecu, maf, igniter and coils and the car will run perfect on a small turbo and respond awesome to piggybacks
Unless you're just absolutely dead set on vvti. I like it a lot and daily a 1j vvti. But someone tuning vvti it will never be as efficient as Toyota made it.
To play devils advocate, figure out the oil feed setup and use 440cc injectors and a jzx100 1jzgte vvti ecu, maf, igniter and coils and the car will run perfect on a small turbo and respond awesome to piggybacks
Sorry, but that's a lot of work to get up to maybe 300 whp, at max 80% inj duty cycle. Drop in a US spec 2jzgte and go single from the start, a fuel and, unless in want huge power, the stock ecu can run it. ems if youre looking at a lot more HP.
It has been done before. you have to use a newer vvti oil pump that has the crank sensor mounted on it, because you are deleting the distributor which has the cam and crank sensors.
The vvti head only has a rear cam sensor, not 2 like the older GE or GTE heads, so you will to use a vvti ecu and all the other stuff that goes with it for that to work, or you can just run a standalone which can run off of just 1 cam sensor like aem ems, etc.. you will have to run wasted spark vvti coils so basically like a vvti is normally setup.
harness you can reuse your harness if you go standalone and add wires for coil and vvti, but if you want to use the factory vvti ecu you may want to start with a vvti harness so it will at least plug into the ecu.
to keep vvti, you can do that if you swap to a vvti ecu, or program the standalone to work it has been done before. oil lines not sure. you could also delete vvti by machining a gte cam to fit on the ge vvti head.
Sorry, but that's a lot of work to get up to maybe 300 whp, at max 80% inj duty cycle. Drop in a US spec 2jzgte and go single from the start, a fuel and, unless in want huge power, the stock ecu can run it. ems if youre looking at a lot more HP.
Why would the dude source an engine from the us that makes nearly identical power to the jap one, especially in aus? Oh, use it because its mapped for 550s? Dude, the whole idea is a lot of work. And the 440s will support more than 300. Also, it is a lot of work, but its hands down cheapest/easiest to get a factory tuned vvti engine. Guy didn't ask for your horrible opinion about what he should swap into his car, but about fittin a vvti head and getting it to work.
Biggest thing here is this is gonna cost a lot of money for little gain. Is this a balled build or budget build?
So far i have been able to confirm that the 2jzge vvti head will bolt on and i will need
a new engine wiring harness as well as vvti coilpacks and ignitor, vvti cam gear and cams.
I am able to source a cheap 2jzge vvti head where i can install off the shelf cams as a benefit.
However another great advantage is the use of a head without a distributor as it has coilpacks.
You're missing lots of stuff here. You don't need a new wiring harness. You seriously need to figure out the oil feed situation. Depending on what year your car is, you might get lucky. 96 and later blocks that did NOT have vvti usually use an adapter to fit the oil pressure sensor in the block which would need to be removed in for a stock IS/gs banjo bolt/ feed line assembly for the vvti solenoid. IF you do not have this larger machined port in he block, you're gonna need to figure out the vvti solenoid feed and the turbo feed.
Na/t guys like to go off of the banjo bolt at the oil filter housing. I personally don't think it's a good idea to have a small 1.0 taper thread or 1/8" bsp or whatever the thread pitch is feeding so many important things (pressure sensor, ocv, and turbo) there are other avenues. But it's a *****. Machining is not cheap. And a tee off the filter housing has worked for others, just something I've avoided in putting together some of these things.
As for wiring harness, just modify yours. If you can't, well, the only harness that will come close is a jdm na 98-00 harness. Then what are you going to do for ecu? Because the harness will still need to be modified for an ecu that will run a non turbo engine with boost properly.
Why do you want vvti? The difference won't be in peak power, but rather power under the curve. And it will take a very experienced tuner a good amount of time on a dyno that they can induce load on, or the mapping will be ****.
Meaning your entire endeavor would be pointless. And way stupid expensive on top of it.
Have you done any research on your car at all? Just because the distributor is there doesn't mean the car can't have coil packs. Use the distributor for timing location signals only, can leave the cap and rotor off. Wire in coils/igniter or smart coils, done!
And if you want to move on to distributor less factory head for aesthetics, gtfo and take your car to a shop. Because you're wasting a bunch of time/money on unimportant stuff.
If you really have to have vvti then buy an aristo 2jzgte vvti swap because it will be loads cheaper/more efficient than the bs you're trying to concoct and will outperform it dollar for dollar.
Seriously, think long and hard. What you're asking about doing is a horrible idea unless you already have all the parts and have some good Toyota knowledge.
Also, seriously, think about costs. It'll be way more than an actual swap. And let's face it. If you had the cash in the first place you'd have imported an actual gte car.
If you really have to have vvti then buy an aristo 2jzgte vvti swap because it will be loads cheaper/more efficient than the bs you're trying to concoct and will outperform it dollar for dollar.
Seriously, think long and hard. What you're asking about doing is a horrible idea unless you already have all the parts and have some good Toyota knowledge.
Also, seriously, think about costs. It'll be way more than an actual swap. And let's face it. If you had the cash in the first place you'd have imported an actual gte car.
I agree why do you want this setup, it will take alot of work and money and you could just get a 2jzgte vvti. no one really goes out of the way to add vvti to a non vvti, and alot are deleting vvti when they have it. you would be better off putting a non vvti gte head on there that would be more usefull along with the oil pump, so then you could fully delete the distributor and not have to deal with vvti.
you can also keep the stock GE head non vvti (like me) and run it with vvti coilpacks and a gte ecu (like me), you just have to keep the base of the distributor, check out my tt ecu mod. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...t-ecu-mod.html
i was hoping to learn more about the vvti head on a non vvti block.
i currentally make 700hp with a s366 and e85. borgs by nature are lazy. vvti should wake it up sooner correct.
so i have lq9 coils, aem v2, gte oil pump, and some skills at wiring.
so oil feed
-tap off from turbo feed
heads swap
-bolts on
-intake manifolds and exhaust are the same with both
i can use aristo vvti valve covers?
you have a na-t right?
you are on standalone so you will have to wire up the vvti, and then you can tune it - Check
you have lq9 coils which are sequential coils and the aem v2 can use sequential coils, but the vvti GE head only has 1 cam sensor, meaning you will have to run the lq9 coils in wasted spark, got it?
coil 1 and 6 fire together, coils 2 and 5 fire together, and coils 3 and 4 fire together.
24 tooth gte crank wheel plus 1 cam sensor = wasted spark normally.
Vrank already said tapping off the oil feed is not a good idea as it is to small for both a turbo and the vvti actuator. I would look into a sandwhich plate where you can get a bigger line going to the actuator like you would an oil cooler.
head swaps on, intakes and exhaust manifolds have same pattern, valve cover no idea honestly.
If you are willing to go to an entirely new crank pattern vs the toyota 24 tooth with 2 cam triggers, and swap to the vvti crank gear which is 36-2, then you may be able to program the aem v2 to run full sequential ignition with a 36-2 wheel and a cam trigger. thats what you need to know to get you started if you actually really try this, but you don't need to cause lq9 coils run pretty good in wasted spark anyways.
Well, hate to bump this but its pretty much exactly what I've been researching and after 6 years, I figured maybe there's some new insight. I have the non-VVTi GE in my 94 Supra and am finding most all of the quality FFIM, fuel rails and exhaust manifolds are mostly made for the GTE head. I have no problem with the PHR NA-T kit but, I was thinking to swap in a GTE head with VVTi to gain that low end and open up the aftermarket options considerably being GTE. Any tips/tricks or has the consensus remained the same; follow the GTE-ECU mod route, throw on a 7M CPS and just be happy lol. OR, if anyone has some suggestions on quality aftermarket GE FFIM and Exhaust Manifolds, I'm all ears. I'm not new to the game but I've been away for awhile and have no doubt I'm just not aware of some new options. Thanks in advance team!
I've seen local NA-T guys with a non-VVTI 2JZ-GE just get the cheap ebay/Amazon FFIM and have it welded to the stock lower manifold like in this photo (this is one of the local guys.) He also has the TT Supra valve covers, but this is a GE, NOT a GTE motor.
100 eBay ffim , weld to lower runners and get a quality throttle body. I’m gonna run the rmr 90mm. Car should make 750+
Yeah, that'll work but it's just not clean enough for my taste. I placed an order with MCC Loyalty Motorports. It's just an eBay manifold with their stamp on it but comes with the right hardware, proven on the dyno, great customer service and comes powder coated. Plus, it looks damn good and probably flows better than the cheaper ebay weld on version. I'll report back when the back orders come in and I get my hands on one.
09-02-13, 06:29 AM
2JZGE VVTI Head Swap on 2JZGE Non VVTI
