hoosier58

Sorry everybody, but I'm trying to get this car back together. I decided to leave the rear water pump housing in place on my SC3. The front pump goes on with 6 12mm bolts that hold both the front and back parts of the pump to the block. I know that those are supposed to be torqued to 15 ft/lbs. There are also 5 10mm bolts that hold the front pump to the rear pump housing. I can't find the torque specs anywhere (everything assumes you're replacing the entire pump as a unit). 15 ft/lbs sounds too strong. I torqued them to 9 ft/lbs, but am not sure this is correct --- it's a guess.

I want to start putting the timing belt back together, but am afraid to have to take things apart again if I got that torque wrong.

Thanks for any help.

soarer13oy

iTrader: (13)

i say youll be fine. Ive torqued my waterpump to 12 ft/lbs and broke a bolt. When i replaced my 2jzgte water pump i just hand tightened it and havent had any issues so far. Im not saying hand tightening it is the way to go but i think 9 ft/lbs should be fine.

hoosier58

Thank you, soarer13. I'm doing this job without all the tools that would make it easy, so I'm pretty scared of having to do things twice. I left a message with a very qualified automotive tech friend earlier, before I posted here. He still does side work, but teaches automotive school at Lincoln Tech in Denver now for the last year or so. He finally called back an hour ago, and said those bolts with the 10mm heads are probably 6mm thread, with some pitch (can't remember) that would call for 8 ft/lbs, but that I'll be fine with 9.

Some guys grew up turning wrenches with their dads, or hung out with other motor heads that did. Not me. I'm not afraid to tackle anything, using good books for instruction, but I need my hand held from time to time, when I can't find specific information.

soarer13oy

iTrader: (13)

As long as youve learned from this and saved money youll be good lol

hoosier58

I'm curious ... does everybody else just charge ahead when they aren't sure about something like this? Am I needlessly nervous? I don't have any ulcers ..... yet.


I'm a carpenter. I know, working with my usual materials, how much fudge factor I have. When I get into automotive stuff, I have no idea what the tolerances are! I always think I need to make it exact, and am clueless about when I can say 'good enough'.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

There is no need to charge blindly ahead in this day and age. We have forums and google to guide us along

SC400slide

iTrader: (11)

This is a general archive of what each definitive nut and bolt, based on scope and size, are torqued by. Directly from the 4k page manual!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

http://97supraturbo.com/Supra%20Scan...0Specs%205.pdf
78 in/lbs or 15 ft/lbs. If you use a large torque wrench like a 1/2" drive and try and get 15 lbs though you could easily over torque it. You just want it on nice and tight so it doesn't leak, remember it is going into aluminum which will strip out with too much torque.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

I'm a firm believer in "tighten till it strips and then back off 1/8 turn".

hoosier58

I was using a 3/8 clicker, about 15" long. 15 ft/lbs felt right on the (stamped 6) 12mm bolts. The 10mm bolts felt plenty tight at 9 ft/lbs, and I could also see the gasket compressed to the point that stripping (or possibly snapping the head off) was close. They have a finer thread pitch, so equal force is actually creating more force at the gasket. I'm tempted to back them off and re-torque to 8 ft/lbs, but am not sure of the wisdom after the gasket has been compressed. I am a little worried about the extra force when the pump gets hot. If my tech friend hadn't said I should be fine at 9, I would probably just buy a new gasket and do it over.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

If it is on there and has not stripped out you are fine, I wouldn't back it off now.