BlakOnBlak

Whats up CL - I've got a 1jzgte in my 92 sc300. Car has been running good for quite some time. Just recently, In the morning when the engine is cold, car will crank, turn on and start but shuts off after one second. I have to try multiple times, give it some gas, and eventually after 10 minutes of struggle she starts up but idles real rough at first. After the engine is warm she purrs like a kitten - sometimes, while driving, she bogs out and loses power, idles ruff, and then runs smooth again. If I shut the engine off she starts right up when she's warm. I've got a Walbro pump whining strong with the 12v mod. Just replaced the fuel filter and plugs. Pulled my ECU and had the capacitors"done" - car still does the same thing. I read on here how to pull the CEL codes - I got 14 & 47 - - I bought a TPS just in case I might need one (still have the receipt of $144.00). Definitely not replacing the TPS just yet - I heard the car should still start without the TPS connected - was looking for some feed back, tips, or any advise if anyone else encountered this problem.

soarer13oy

iTrader: (13)

http://mkiv.com/techarticles/engine_...bd1_codes.html test out the coolant temp sensor as well.

BlakOnBlak

Dude I hope you live forever

I'll let you know the outcome after tomorrows diagnosis.

BlakOnBlak

Changed the ignitor and also swapped out the ecu - car starts with no problem and stays on. Check engine light went away. For the most part she's running good - when i hit full throttle she cuts up a tiny bit just before the red line - taking my ecu back to the guy who worked the capacitors -

soarer13oy

iTrader: (13)

So did you try the ignitor first or did you just swapped them both out at once? glad you figured it out.

BlakOnBlak

I tried the ignitor first and it started up with no problem but was idling ruff. Check engine was coming on and off. It would idle normal for a minute or so, and then the CEL would come on with a rough idle - then after a minute or so the CEL would come off and it would idle normal again. My friend let me borrow his ECU just to see what happens. I've heard many stories of people getting their ECU fixed, but having to take it back for a "touch up" - is it possible a bad ignitor can fry an ECU? Right now the car drives fine unless i try to give it boost it boggs and jumps a lil (still gets most of the power; slightly lacking juice). Doesn't bog or jump at all when I rev the engine from outside the car - (maybe the borrowed ECU also needs some work - my friends car was sitting for over 2 years)
I'm going to wait till I get my ECU back and go from there. Thanks again - i'll report back when i re-install my ECU

BlakOnBlak

Got back the ECU - re-installed - started her up and was greatly disappointed. Really ruff idle; Couldn't give any gas at all; stepped on the pedal and she bogs out bad; felt like she wanted to shut off every few seconds. The ECU guy offered to take another look at my computer. This guy has a great rep in the community so I'm figuring my ECU is just that bad that I might have to search for a replacement. Told him I'll pick it up in a week . I read up on those ECU's and they don't look like a walk in the park. I re-installed the borrowed ECU and she's idling fine and car feels 100% better. Any one know where I can get a replacement ECU? (1jzgte Auto) Even if mines get fixed doesn't hurt to keep a spare at the rate these things fail.

soarer13oy

iTrader: (13)

So it bogs when given boost? at what rpms does this happen? Try double checking timing belt.

BlakOnBlak

Its the ECU - the computer guy finally told me he couldn't get it to work - he tested it first before returning and was a complete fail. I guess sometimes they cant be saved. Anyone know where I can get an ECU? 1JZ GTE A/T

BlakOnBlak

Found an ECU at JDM in MIami. Cost was 269 / she's worth every penny. (the ecu they sold me did not work - car would not start; they exchanged it with no problem. These 1jz ecu's are a nightmare) After swapping out the ECU car started up but was misfiring slightly. She was able to drive and stay on with no problem but a slight sputter when i give boost. Definitely seams like something else could be wrong. Added 12 volts to one of the injectors and the car went to idling smooth. Time to change the injectors -

soarer13oy

iTrader: (13)

wiring within the harness? Check to see if all injectors get 12v when the car is on the on position

BlakOnBlak

I used an injector plug off a different 1jz harness and ran it directly to the battery - fortunately for me my friend has a performance shop with plenty 1j parts laying around. The car maintained a smooth idle while the plug was connected directly to the battery; thats what i meant by 12 volts (I'll check the voltage for all injectors when i go back to the shop) - today i poured a lil seafoam into a quarter tank of gas and she is now idling smooth and steady with a slight sputter every 1 to 2 minutes. When i step on the gas she sputters slightly but the power is there. HUGE difference after the seam foam. I'm going get all the injectors cleaned off-car just to play it safe.