Performance & Maintenance Engine, forced induction, intakes, exhausts, torque converters, transmissions, etc.

Sc300 Won't start

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Old 12-12-13 | 09:53 AM
  #16  
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Ali SC3
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Originally Posted by eknine9
No, I didn't reset the ECU before I started, should I do that?
And do you mean blow some air into the intake? How many tries should I give it before cleaning it again?
I replaced the cap and rotor at the top of this thread with a brand new bosch rotor and bosch cap. My old rotor was a mess and the (for lack of a better word) little things on the inside of my old cap were calcified and one of them was charred pretty bad. At the time I thought that was what was causing my problem but replacing them did nothing.
yes, anytime you touch the maf, reset the ecu, the ecu will freak out if you don't.
I mean blowing it into the maf to make sure it is dry, like when you cleaned it. try not to let the liquid stuff come out of the can of compressed air if you do that but try resetting first.

If your cap and rotor were that bad there is a chance the spark inside that charred the cap also hurt one of the cam or crank sensors. If in the end the maf does not cure it and the symptoms are still present you may want to try a spare distributor as a test. let us know if you get the codes out.
Old 12-12-13 | 06:08 PM
  #17  
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I got code 12.
Which is RPM signal no. 1.

Gonna reset the ECU now, hoping I don't need a new distributor. Autozone distro was $180, and OEM was $250.
Gonna start the car after I reset the ECU
Old 12-15-13 | 10:40 PM
  #18  
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Installed new distributor today and reset ECU.
Car starts fine and revs through the entire RPM range.
Will take it out tomorrow after work to see if it's fine on the street without stranding me but all signs point to the distributor as being the problem.

I definitely should've read the ECU codes a lot earlier than I did, but got lazy with it since I had another daily driver. I also had an internal leak in my old distributor and it's possible that these two occurrences were connected. I'd like to thank everyone who chimed in with their advice and help as I appreciated every thing that was provided to me as it was all something for me to think about.

My MAF is a lot cleaner, I've now got a 12v fuel pump, brand new cap, rotor, distributor, and o-ring seals, along with a new HO alt and battery and a run of 0 gauge wire from the alt to the battery, and a new air filter. I also now know how to run engine codes, disassemble an alternator, know the difference between a von karmann vortex sensor MAF and a hot-wire/thermistor MAF, and how to clean both and feel much more comfortable messing with my distributor then I did before all of this went on. I was about ready to buy a new fuel pump too but I'm glad I didn't have to as there was more than half a tank of gas in there, and I'd hate to have to clean up my interior digging my fuel pump out of there. A lot of good things have happened to my car as a result of my problems and for that I say thanks CL... maybe I'll be able to return the favor as time passes.

For now I'll go back to planning my steering wheel swap and hounding LuxuryMods to see if they can figure out how to ship an order on time or respond to a customer e-mail.
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