stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

True to a degree, but 5k rpm clutch kicks tend to negate lag. Also, a properly trimmed turbine with a small housing can spool pretty darn fast even on a 1jz. It will never make 2jz torque, but i think it will make plenty to break traction. I'm all for cubes and torque, but I'm also looking at total budget and bang for buck here.

driftersc3

Im thinking of just going 1jz to get me going. He brought up a good point. I can use the extra money to get the r154 that ill need. Its good enough on power to start with, reliable, and a.thousand dollars cheaper. When I want power I can just swap to single, put on a 2jz head and do supporting mods.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

2JZ head isn't really a step I would take, but I agree with your logic otherwise

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

also consider picking up another 2jzge. I know I have a spare sitting in my garage.
if you can find one not seized you won't have to tear into the bottom end generally, you can just do a headgasket job and arp's with a top end refresh, throw a turbo on there and get on with it. you can probably part out some parts from that motor that are still good like the oil pan etc.. and get another ge for just a hair more.
swap is a good route too its a tough call but you will spend more money repairing that one then finding a running one.

driftersc3

I agree completely. I looked into doing NA-T. With any new engine I get I'm going to do rings, acl race bearings, arp hardware throughout, all new gaskets and seals, and probably valve job. I can get a 2jzge for around 700 and I can get 1jzgte for around 1300. The reason why I'm thinking of going 1jz is because it comes with stock turbos, coil on plus, and ffim. For the 2jzge I'd need ffim ($200), throttle body ($200), coil on plug system ($400), turbo ($500), exhaust manifold ($200), and Watergate ($100). It'll be more cost efficient to just go 1jzgte and run stock turbos until they go bad.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

until they go bad and then you still need a turbo, manifold and wastegate.
I see lots of people also using the 1jz vvti for drifting. thats a good option thats already single turbo that wont need replacing in a little while.

The 2jzge stock intake may actually be better for drifting as it makes more down low power.
coil on plug and gte ecu I would definitely do on every na-t at the least if not standalone for a track car.

driftersc3

I'm going to run megasquirt 3 stand alone ecu. I do plan on going single but I was just going to use stock twins to get it running and broken in.

stockhatch

iTrader: (12)

As mentioned, a good used ge is a great option as well. Whether you buy a used ge, or gte, it is a gamble. I really like stock/bpu gtes because they tend to be really reliable and you don't really have to do anything to them to make decent power. Plenty of people on here build nats that fit that description as well, so really there is no wrong answer. Just do what feels right and makes the most sense for you

driftersc3

Thanks for all the help guys

mikef

iTrader: (3)

i like that spoiler, what is it?

driftersc3

92 oem spoiler

jwin

iTrader: (16)

a GE shortblock are pretty cheap. a few hundred bucks. I wouldn't even rebuild it. Slap a turbo kit on it and with ARP headstuds and GTE headgasket and boost away. Rebuild it after it needs to be rebuild. Any motor you buy whether its a 1jz or 2jzgte is a gamble. The whole reason why I went Na-T is that 1600-2600 bucks i spend to get the motor i can use that towards my turbo kit. 2jzge motors are a dime a dozen and once you invest in the FFIM (not need but looks good, Coilpacks (not need but nice to have) lq9 are much better than any stock toyota coilpack, Standalone (very much need), and fuel system you should easily hit your goal.

driftersc3

True, but while the motor is already out I may as well refresh it. GE's here are around $600.00. I'd rather just have the 1jz and have more fun.