jschru

iTrader: (1)

I currently have a 95 sc300 with 190K on the clock. dave-h pt61 kit, gte ecu mod. and I'm considering doing a rebuild of my block. I know i have leaky valve stem seals, so at the very least i need to rebuild my head, but my question is, would it be more worth it to just rebuild/refresh the whole block? I was thinking of getting a second 2j-ge block to pull apart and put all new seals, rings, head rebuild, tt hg, head studs, etc. but is that overkill? should i just rebuild my head do head studs, tt hg and call it a day? this is my DD and my goal is about 400-450ish hp. If i were to do a full rebuild i know the stock internals are plenty strong enough, so any other suggestions for what should be replaced would be appreciated. Thanks

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

for 400 to 500 i wouldnt even touch the block , i would find a nice clean low mileage ge block , i personally wouldnt even use a gte hg ,i would stay 10:0 compression .. i would get head done meaning clean head , lap valves , re cut seats for 100% sealing and install some ferrera viton valve stem seals and of course put car on full stand alone and get it fully tuned by a very competent tuner and boost away

money saved from building bottomend could be spent on going full standalone and tuning which is really setting the stage for more power if you want down the road .. the key to a jz motor surviving boost especially a na-t is being able to control timing and fueling correctly

my car has been on boost 7 yrs and still on original bottomend that came with car in 97 and at 600 rwhp since oct 2010

its all in the tuning and care for the car

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

never touch the block unless there is something wrong with it or you know you will exceed its power limits, a well maintained 190k 2jzge is just fine for lots of boost. just do a top end refresh with new valve seals, new headgasket (gte or ge depends) and some arp hardware, new timing belt kit w/water pump and that thing will be like new again.

jschru

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply guys! i'm just curious, you both mention keeping the hg stock. I was under the impression a tt hg would allow one to safely boost more or is the stock hg stronger than people think? recommend any other head upgrades, lexforlife mentions ferrera valve stem seals anything else or just keep it all stock for now. also do you guys know of or recommend a place to get a full top end gasket set? driftmotion?

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

I would not do it on stock 10.1 cr unless you are running some type on c16 or ethanol.

It worked for somebody doesn't mean its gonna work for you..

Aem v1 doesn't have any types of failsafe..V2 does with the new firmware which doesn't control the auto trans properly after the new update.

tt hg will give you room for error, you keep it around 18-19 psi you can beat on it on 93octane for 55years and not worry about blowing the hg, melting pistons etc..

400-450hp is easy to achieve on stock tt ecu with the right turbo and setup.

i still don't believe you can make 700+on pump gas with 93 octane on 10.1CR i don't believe that crap i read on SF.

OP GL with whatever setup you choose.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

i think i said anything under 500 rwhp theres zero need to go lower compression on pump gas and yes aem v1 has the most important failsafes avail

boost cut , simple
aggressive knock control ( very effective)
real good fuel system with more the ample headroom
you can even expand o2 feedback to assist with extreme lean conditions ,,and you really want excellent protection , get the aem failsafe gauge and wire it directly to the aem ecu which if you do this right and control boost internally via mac valve thru aem , the failsafe will register lean condition and can immed drop boost to wastegate, impose rev limiter ,or cut timing .. for the level of hp op wants , these are truly viable options

i have several people i know been on stock comp at around 15 psi for the mid 400 range and have been boosted more then 6 yrs strong

above mid 400 range i would certainly rethink fuel choices and or lowering comp.. whats the diff between what im suggesting vs trufantics build on 10:0 pistons and hes going to be low to mid 500's on 93 octane..

it comes down to the tune and tuners ability to TRULYunderstand your setup and what youre after


although i do understand quickgs point and perspective

heck remeber i did build a is300 na-t using stock bottomend yes with tt hg , but car makes 413rwhp on vvti internals and has been beaten on since oct 2011 , yes daily driven since oct 2011 , but many say vvti bottomend will not hold up , again its in the tune and tuners abilities ( alpha tuned that is300 on full aem )

2jznosht

What do you actually have in mind for the block?

jschru

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the input guys. i think i'm gonna go with the tt hg just to be on the safe side. plus it leaves room for more power later down the road.

i was thinking of doing rings. have the block decked and cleaned up. and replacing all seals. but it seems like everyone agrees that there's really no need to touch the bottom end unless you're going for major power or if theres any damage which seems unlikely