Hey everybody. I'm kinda in a sticky situation and Idk how to go about this.
I just got a new job and start Monday. So I'm not gonna have any money for a while cause I still have bills to pay. I just got done with my battery, igniter and fuse box relocation, but I have yet to start my car. Now my problem is that before I got started on the relocation, I had a bad computer. So I bought a second one, got it in the mail and my car turned on for a day. Right after that I started the relocation. Now happy that I had my car started I didn't check if the new to me ecu had any codes. So Idk if these are memory codes, (not likely cause the car hasn't had a battery for the past 6 months) or if I really do have a code 22 and 14.
Now for my relocation, I tried to do everything as "right" as I could, so I tore apart the whole wiring harness from the fuse box and the battery and put 2 sizes bigger for every wire that was lengthened. Being as code 14 is ignition signal or something like that, Idk if that has to do with igniter relocation, or something I did wrong. But basically I really need somebody to help me out with Mitchell or all data to figure out how to go about diagnosing the car. And which should I go for first, new ecu, (because I know this one is bad due to capacitor leaking and the company that I sent it to to be rebuilt said it's too damaged to repair,) or fix the code 22 and 14 first. Please help.

 

Still need help please.

 

I just got done fixing my code 22 which is the Coolant temp sensor.If it's bad though you will know right away when you start the car it will run so rich that the car will start poppin and eventually cut out if you don't give it gas.Overall it could be a weak connection like mine which threw my code.It's a $10 sensor.

 

I wish I knew if it was the actual sensor or something else. My car doesn't turn on. I believe it to be the 22 code which is ignition. But if not then it's a bad ecu.

 

22 is not ignition, its coolant temp. And if your ecu has capacitors leaking and can't be repaired, I'd be looking at that. I've had clt sensors fail that kept my car from starting. My gfs car also has leaking capacitors currently and throws this same code, 22, and I'm100% positive that there are zero faults in the tha circuit or e2 circuit as well as having a new sensor. Furthermore, her code doesn't trigger the cel, I just happened to check for the sake of checking. Its always there if I check but never triggers the cel.

 

Sorry. Meant 14 is ignition. But your saying I should replace my ecu before I figure out if it is throwing a code?
Edit: before I diagnose the codes. Cause it might be a bad ecu only. Is this correct?

 

The fact that the ecu is known to have leaking capacitors and was deemed a lost cause for repair makes me think its looking like the ecu.

 

But it would be a good idea to confirm that the igf circuit is in good working order since you did move the igniter. Might wanna confirm igt/igc too

 

Well I just got the trouble tree today to look into how to diagnose exactly what it could be. Sadly, my dad has Not 1, but 2 POS multimeters that don't do crap. They couldn't even tell me that the battery I was using, which is a known good battery, had 12 volts. So I skipped on diagnosing today but tomorrow I'll try again with a new multimeter. Either way, when I first got home, I reconnected the ecu, cranked the engine, and the ecu gave me different codes. So I disconnected the ecu, reconnected it, cranked the engine again, and again came the 14 and 22 codes. So I am thinking for sure it's the ecu. But like vrank said, I might as well check everything to make sure it's good. I'm just gonna save up my money now that I started a job a buy a brand new reman ecu. I just hope I don't blow a new ecu.

 

first thing i would do is borrow a know working ECU or test your ECU on another car. you'll find out which is bad. then if its working okay, then check the power wire on the coil. that should be black and orange wire, i think, there should be at 12v there when ignition is on. if it is then, you should try to bypass the igniter to hear if there is sparks.. by "by-pass" i mean adding + or - to the IGT wire on igniter plugs.. if bypassing the igniter is not working and there are no sparks then, i will go to the igniter and look up IGT in the wiring diagram. these are the wires that carries the signal from the ECU to fire the coils and distributor. put a voltmeter there and measure that you got at least 1.0 volts when you crank the engine. if you dont then there is no signal coming from ECU. from the same plug look for IGF, this wire is the confirmation wire to tell the ECU that cams and crank are align so send the sparks. there should be 5V there when you turn on the ignition.

take the temp senser off and test it with room temp water and then boiling water and check the ohms on it, hot water should drop the ohms reading and cold should raise the ohms reading. or its the other way around.. but check with the fsm.. if not then its bad..