Since the block, crank, and rods are the same between the GE and GTE motors, then a "combo of all 3" above is true.

I doubt anyone knows (except Toyota) the clearance volume on the GE and GTE motors. The only way to determine it is to empirically measure it.

According to http://www.mkiv.com/specifications/ncf/ncf93/ncf080.jpg
and http://www.mkiv.com/specifications/ncf/ncf93/ncf037.jpg there's nothing to support the claim that the GTE pistons are heat-treated.

-scott

 

To anyone following this thread,

(climb on soap box)
As I've stated on other CL threads, I don't post info unless I've done it myself or have *very* credible sources. While I enjoy disseminating information on this forum, I get frustrated reading technical posts based on hearsay. You're much better off digging for the info yourself by working on your car or referencing credible sources. In the end, you'll be a much better tuner and mechanic.

If I don't know something, you'll see me post a question.
(climb off soap box)

I posted this thread on SFs looking for the stock squish band measurements: http://www.supraforums.com/showthrea...hreadid=97738. Unfortunately, no one knew the answer. Consequently, when I'm ready to pull the head on my motor, I'll measure it before and after the thicker hg is installed. Then and only then will I know for *sure* what the c/r is.

Hope this helps.

-scott

 

***EDITED*** I re-read this thread 100 times and I think I am clear on everything now.

Thanks

 

Sorry if I scared everyone off the thread.

My apologies to anyone who found my post offensive.

-scott

 

IMO: Toyota engineers had to consider some fool putting low octane gas in there. Not taking care of the motor and generally being a **** poor supra owner and then blaming Toyota when their 40G's new supra blew up. That is how many automotive designers approach any vehicle. How is someone (the prospective buyer) going to ruin this car - and how to make that harder to do (the act of ruining the car). Not everyone is going to run the top octane and change the oil at 3,000.

LOL - SR listened to Lance from Toyomoto practically to the T from the info he posted here. I think he blew his oil seals in the turbo, not the head gasket. There are a lot of possible causes here. He was running nitrous also a seriously confounding variable.

I have one. I've seen it and driven it. I need to do more work with it. We'll see just how much it will take at 10:1. I won't have data for 5 months so that's all I can say now. There are just so many variables and factors at play.

You haven't offended me. Keep up the good work.

 

Read about SR's hg failure: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...threadid=60096

If memory serves, I remember SR telling me Lance encouraged him *not* to go with such a small A/R and 10:1, but SR wanted a car that was quick off the line.

Good luck with your motor.

-scott

 

I stand corrected.

 

FYI, I just talked to Lance from Toyomoto about the whole hg thing. Interestingly, he sells a 2mm hg for the NA-T conversion. That matches *very* closely to what I predicted would result in an 8.5:1 c/r on the NA motor.

He said a 3mm wouldn't allow the timing belt to go back on anyway because the head would be too high.

-scott

 

Actual application is always the bottom line but I would worry about the squish area becoming ineffective with too thick of a gasket. Compression tolerance is NOT just mechanical ratio. Static compression and dynamic compression are also very different animals. Back to squish, the head design directs the charge into a specific area at TDC. This pocket is isolated by effectively closing off part of the chamber. This is done by having flat areas of the piston match up with flat areas of the head. The area must be sufficient to allow for metal expansion, stretch and rocking. The goal is to get the squish area as close as possible to the head at TDC. A thicker gasket moves the piston and head appart. At some point this will create a problem and actual become a potential source for detonation. The best way to reduce compression is through very careful and chamber to chamber accurate enlarging the chamber pocket. This is best done on the exhaust side and can be either the head or piston or both. Of course there are many examples of people sucessfully running the thicker gaskets I just think there is a better way.

 

I agree.

 

couldn't have said it better myself... there are proven results... if you want a better way; go buy a set of low compression pistons while someone else buys a headgasket that costs less than a 1/4 of a set of custom forged pistons will cost... with the exact same results...

there isn't a better way... a different way... but being better is has to bring something better to the table; and time and time again the "wrong" way has proven to work perfectly fine with no hangups...

For the record, Lance charges more than Greddy does for their headgasket...

I'm getting the stock TT gasket I'm getting sick of the stupid prices on import stuff that manufacturers charge because they know they can get away with it... $130 and you get tried and true Toyota quality

 

Thinking about doing this on my is300.

Does anyone now if the stock exhaust minifold from 2jzgte fits my 2jzge ?
Thinking of putting the stock turbos from 2jzgte on my engine, its esyer for regristread reasons where I live, and also amount of hp is enough for me with the stock turbos.

 

please do a search this has been covered a million times, the turbos from a 2jzgte do not fit onto your 2jzge.
the exhaust ports and bolts are completely different. everyone would have done it already.

 

I tried serching for them, nut couldent find any. If you like link them to me, would appreciate


Suspekted that it would not fit.

 

No, they will not fit. You will want to order a 2JZGE turbo exhaust manifold and a turbo.

Oh yeah, and don't forget the oil lines, injectors, engine management, headgasket, ARP studs, intercooler, intercooler piping, blow off valve, downpipe, and a wastegate.