1jz wont fire aem gurus needed
#1
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1jz wont fire aem gurus needed
okay guys i need all the help i can get!!! and please don't say take it to an aem tuner.
-1jz with a port and polished head 272 cams and titanium valve train
-1000cc id's
-hx35 turbo
-aem v2
-wired for sequential injection
-battery relocate to back, grounded in trunk and grounded block
so the issue is it wont fire, she cranks fine, most of the sensors seem to be working fine from what i can tell, stat sync on the aem turns on.
tomorrow i will check the resistance on the cam sensors and crank sensor, the aem does register the cranking speed and it sits at around 400rpm which seems much to low what could be the issue there? grounding?
also does anyone know what the firing order for the injectors and coils should be on the software, it doesn't back fire out of the intake manifold just cranks, i can smell fuel in the cylinders when i pull the plugs.
also unrelated my climate control wont turn on, not sure if that changes anything
thanks guys i really need to get this thing running so i can tow it to the tuner and get it dyno'd
-1jz with a port and polished head 272 cams and titanium valve train
-1000cc id's
-hx35 turbo
-aem v2
-wired for sequential injection
-battery relocate to back, grounded in trunk and grounded block
so the issue is it wont fire, she cranks fine, most of the sensors seem to be working fine from what i can tell, stat sync on the aem turns on.
tomorrow i will check the resistance on the cam sensors and crank sensor, the aem does register the cranking speed and it sits at around 400rpm which seems much to low what could be the issue there? grounding?
also does anyone know what the firing order for the injectors and coils should be on the software, it doesn't back fire out of the intake manifold just cranks, i can smell fuel in the cylinders when i pull the plugs.
also unrelated my climate control wont turn on, not sure if that changes anything
thanks guys i really need to get this thing running so i can tow it to the tuner and get it dyno'd
#2
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mess with the initial crank pulse under advanced engine start, and modulate the throttle as you are cranking it.
If you can't get it to fire off at all check the ignition to make sure its on and working.
copy the number from the 1100 2jzgte cal file, it has numbers for the sequential injection and ignition.
in fact you shuld probably be starting from that base cal since you are wired for sequential injection it now runs like a 2jzgte.
could also be the wiring job that was done, but I can't tell that from here.
If you can't get it to fire off at all check the ignition to make sure its on and working.
copy the number from the 1100 2jzgte cal file, it has numbers for the sequential injection and ignition.
in fact you shuld probably be starting from that base cal since you are wired for sequential injection it now runs like a 2jzgte.
could also be the wiring job that was done, but I can't tell that from here.
#3
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okay ill try that tonight, if anything i could have messed up the wiring from the injectors to the ecu, i did redo the clips for the coils but i doubt i messed that up.
i dont see a 1100 2jzgte cal file are you talking about the 750 one? and how would you mess with the crank pulse exactly?
i dont see a 1100 2jzgte cal file are you talking about the 750 one? and how would you mess with the crank pulse exactly?
mess with the initial crank pulse under advanced engine start, and modulate the throttle as you are cranking it.
If you can't get it to fire off at all check the ignition to make sure its on and working.
copy the number from the 1100 2jzgte cal file, it has numbers for the sequential injection and ignition.
in fact you shuld probably be starting from that base cal since you are wired for sequential injection it now runs like a 2jzgte.
could also be the wiring job that was done, but I can't tell that from here.
If you can't get it to fire off at all check the ignition to make sure its on and working.
copy the number from the 1100 2jzgte cal file, it has numbers for the sequential injection and ignition.
in fact you shuld probably be starting from that base cal since you are wired for sequential injection it now runs like a 2jzgte.
could also be the wiring job that was done, but I can't tell that from here.
#4
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also i can hear a sparking sound coming from the intake manifold, the wires i ran for sequential injection are not covered they are just 18gauge wire with the typical wire insulation, i left them uncovered incase i had to change the injector wiring is it possible the wire is arching somewhere? i did however shirnk wrap and solder all the connections properly. it only happens during cranking
#6
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i have the driftmotion aem v2 box, i dont see any 1100 base cal file, just 6100 supra and 6101 sc300 base maps
#7
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I dunno how I missed the part about the aem v2 in the first post. yeah the 6100 supra cal file shuld have all the right orders if you are wiring up the 1jz the same way. it really depends on how you do the wiring as far as setting up the injectors but you would have to modify the 1jz cal file for sequential or try and use the supra 6100 cal file but then the wiring needs to be same as a 2jzgte which really it should be wired that way. injection wise you will find the supra (GTE) and sc300 (GE) cal files to be very similar in the basic setup so you can use numbers from either. whats different is the ignition and the supra gte file will be same as the 1jz ignition wise.
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#8
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the wires were pre labeled for me from driftmotion for sequential injection into the patch harness so all i did was solder the connections and run wires to injectors and clip the old ground wires and tape them off then wire the new ones in. i tried the 1jz base file with sequential injection settings and it stopped backfiring but still wouldn't start.
on sunday i have the day off and im going to make sure the injectors are wired in the correct order. also is it possible to wire the coil packs backwards? i re did the clips is it possible i wired it incorrectly?
on sunday i have the day off and im going to make sure the injectors are wired in the correct order. also is it possible to wire the coil packs backwards? i re did the clips is it possible i wired it incorrectly?
I dunno how I missed the part about the aem v2 in the first post. yeah the 6100 supra cal file shuld have all the right orders if you are wiring up the 1jz the same way. it really depends on how you do the wiring as far as setting up the injectors but you would have to modify the 1jz cal file for sequential or try and use the supra 6100 cal file but then the wiring needs to be same as a 2jzgte which really it should be wired that way. injection wise you will find the supra (GTE) and sc300 (GE) cal files to be very similar in the basic setup so you can use numbers from either. whats different is the ignition and the supra gte file will be same as the 1jz ignition wise.
#9
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so i checked resistance of the cam and crank sensors and it all checked out i have power at the ecu, i noticed 1 ground from the ecu is not showing continuity so i will need to fix that. i also cleaned and checked the intake manifold grounds. i swapped relays and replaced the efi relay. still no start
the odd thing is sometimes when i turn the key to run i hear a loud spark from the engine bay it sounds like a short and i cant trace it, my buddys coming over tomorrow so hopefully we can solve that issue.
anyone have any ideas whats happening??
the odd thing is sometimes when i turn the key to run i hear a loud spark from the engine bay it sounds like a short and i cant trace it, my buddys coming over tomorrow so hopefully we can solve that issue.
anyone have any ideas whats happening??
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okay ill just keep talking to myself, this thing is running exactly like a 2jz guys besides the displacement almost everything is the same since i changed the injection style.
so checklist:
-cam and crank resistances check out
-12v to all injectors
-12v at all coils
-fuel pressure holds at 43.5 psi
-injectors are firing i can smell fuel and plugs are soaked
-ive only checked coil 1 for spark but i do see spark
-ignitor is fine
-motor is at tdc and cams set to 0
-ecu has power
-ecu shows signal from sensors
-changed gap on ngk bkr7e from 1 to .3. they were really out of spec and cleaned plugs
now the weird thing is i have a aem 3.5 bar map sensor wired in correctly from the old stock map, when i check voltage on the ground wire i see 10v
and when i check voltage on the voltage wire i get 4.5ish volts which is correct and nothing on the signal wire which is also correct.
why the hell am i getting 10v on the ground wire on the map sensor with key on??????
and also why dont i have a check engine light with the key to on??
so checklist:
-cam and crank resistances check out
-12v to all injectors
-12v at all coils
-fuel pressure holds at 43.5 psi
-injectors are firing i can smell fuel and plugs are soaked
-ive only checked coil 1 for spark but i do see spark
-ignitor is fine
-motor is at tdc and cams set to 0
-ecu has power
-ecu shows signal from sensors
-changed gap on ngk bkr7e from 1 to .3. they were really out of spec and cleaned plugs
now the weird thing is i have a aem 3.5 bar map sensor wired in correctly from the old stock map, when i check voltage on the ground wire i see 10v
and when i check voltage on the voltage wire i get 4.5ish volts which is correct and nothing on the signal wire which is also correct.
why the hell am i getting 10v on the ground wire on the map sensor with key on??????
and also why dont i have a check engine light with the key to on??
#11
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I'm not an AEM expert but if the plugs are soaked you are getting fuel and you should probably disable the fuel pump and try cranking it for awhile. Possibly put new plugs in it.
There is probably enough fuel to run for a few seconds with the pump off. It's not going to start if it's flooded so you need to clear it out. Not only are you trying to fire wet plugs but the fuel is likely washing all the oil off the cylinder walls causing low compression and maybe even some damage if you keep persisting.
Cranking with the fuel pump disabled will either let it start (unless there is another issue) or blow the fuel out of the exhaust.
There is probably enough fuel to run for a few seconds with the pump off. It's not going to start if it's flooded so you need to clear it out. Not only are you trying to fire wet plugs but the fuel is likely washing all the oil off the cylinder walls causing low compression and maybe even some damage if you keep persisting.
Cranking with the fuel pump disabled will either let it start (unless there is another issue) or blow the fuel out of the exhaust.
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funny thing is it started.... i cleaned the plugs and blew out the cylinders and re gapped my plugs and it actually starts and will idle when i hold the gas. i just need to see whats stopping it from staying running. still could be a failing cam sensor. or most likely settings in the aem software
I'm not an AEM expert but if the plugs are soaked you are getting fuel and you should probably disable the fuel pump and try cranking it for awhile. Possibly put new plugs in it.
There is probably enough fuel to run for a few seconds with the pump off. It's not going to start if it's flooded so you need to clear it out. Not only are you trying to fire wet plugs but the fuel is likely washing all the oil off the cylinder walls causing low compression and maybe even some damage if you keep persisting.
Cranking with the fuel pump disabled will either let it start (unless there is another issue) or blow the fuel out of the exhaust.
There is probably enough fuel to run for a few seconds with the pump off. It's not going to start if it's flooded so you need to clear it out. Not only are you trying to fire wet plugs but the fuel is likely washing all the oil off the cylinder walls causing low compression and maybe even some damage if you keep persisting.
Cranking with the fuel pump disabled will either let it start (unless there is another issue) or blow the fuel out of the exhaust.
#13
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funny thing is it started.... i cleaned the plugs and blew out the cylinders and re gapped my plugs and it actually starts and will idle when i hold the gas. i just need to see whats stopping it from staying running. still could be a failing cam sensor. or most likely settings in the aem software
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my iacv is disconnected and blocked off. my engine will respond to the throttle when cranking but then the throttle does not work while running.
weirdest thing ever is i have an aem 3.5 bar map, the ground wire is showing 10 volts of power which is weird, so i thought why not cut that wire and wire in a different ground so once i did my map sensor registers on the aem software i no longer have connection issues with my aem ems.
weirdest thing ever is i have an aem 3.5 bar map, the ground wire is showing 10 volts of power which is weird, so i thought why not cut that wire and wire in a different ground so once i did my map sensor registers on the aem software i no longer have connection issues with my aem ems.
#15
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my iacv is disconnected and blocked off. my engine will respond to the throttle when cranking but then the throttle does not work while running.
weirdest thing ever is i have an aem 3.5 bar map, the ground wire is showing 10 volts of power which is weird, so i thought why not cut that wire and wire in a different ground so once i did my map sensor registers on the aem software i no longer have connection issues with my aem ems.
weirdest thing ever is i have an aem 3.5 bar map, the ground wire is showing 10 volts of power which is weird, so i thought why not cut that wire and wire in a different ground so once i did my map sensor registers on the aem software i no longer have connection issues with my aem ems.
You don't by chance have a wideband grounded along with the rest of your sensors? If the wideband heater ground is grounded with any of the other sensors (TPS, ECT, or whatever) it will cause issues.
Also, I don't currently have an idle valve and I need to keep on the gas, hot or cold start, for 20-30 seconds before it will run without any throttle input from my foot.