oil pan drop with motor in place?
03-07-03, 09:29 AM
#1
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oil pan drop with motor in place?
so this might be a newB question (as i am a newB) but can i drop my oil pan without pulling the motor out ? I have this thing all apart (down to just the block) and was wondering if i could replace the rings with the block in place. Thanks for any replys
03-07-03, 09:54 AM
#2
Lexus Test Driver
You can drop the pan if I remember correctly, but you have to pull some of the crossmembers off the suspension, which requires removing quite a bit of stuff.
Its much easier to just pull the engine to do stuff like rings. If I were you, even with it stripped down, I'd pull the engine, then re-assemble the engine on a stand, put the whole thing back in.
Assembling the top end, and parts, etc with the engine in the car is not easy at all, especially on the intake side.
For those doing a simple drill of the block for the oil return line:
Toyomoto suggested that you could get the pan off by using a pry bar on the rear crossmember, but I was never able to do it, and it put undue stress on the lower control arm bushings which were already in poor shape, so I really wouldn't recommend it.
For a turbo project, you can just dropped the pan slightly, thoroughly wrap a trash bag or two with some tape over the pan, effectively sealing it from the debris that would fall from drilling the hole in the upper pan for the return line. Then drill the hole, vaccuum the hole with shop vac, pull the excess shavings out with your fingers (from both ends). It helps to have a vac with a long narrow hose attachment, like a computer vacuum. You could also fabricate one. Then remove the shavings that fell on the garbage bag, remove the bag, put Toyota gasket FIPIG on the pan, and put the pan back on.
Its much easier to just pull the engine to do stuff like rings. If I were you, even with it stripped down, I'd pull the engine, then re-assemble the engine on a stand, put the whole thing back in.
Assembling the top end, and parts, etc with the engine in the car is not easy at all, especially on the intake side.
For those doing a simple drill of the block for the oil return line:
Toyomoto suggested that you could get the pan off by using a pry bar on the rear crossmember, but I was never able to do it, and it put undue stress on the lower control arm bushings which were already in poor shape, so I really wouldn't recommend it.
For a turbo project, you can just dropped the pan slightly, thoroughly wrap a trash bag or two with some tape over the pan, effectively sealing it from the debris that would fall from drilling the hole in the upper pan for the return line. Then drill the hole, vaccuum the hole with shop vac, pull the excess shavings out with your fingers (from both ends). It helps to have a vac with a long narrow hose attachment, like a computer vacuum. You could also fabricate one. Then remove the shavings that fell on the garbage bag, remove the bag, put Toyota gasket FIPIG on the pan, and put the pan back on.
03-07-03, 12:47 PM
#3
Originally posted by SC300T
For a turbo project, you can just dropped the pan slightly, thoroughly wrap a trash bag or two with some tape over the pan, effectively sealing it from the debris that would fall from drilling the hole in the upper pan for the return line. Then drill the hole, vaccuum the hole with shop vac, pull the excess shavings out with your fingers (from both ends). It helps to have a vac with a long narrow hose attachment, like a computer vacuum. You could also fabricate one. Then remove the shavings that fell on the garbage bag, remove the bag, put Toyota gasket FIPIG on the pan, and put the pan back on.
For a turbo project, you can just dropped the pan slightly, thoroughly wrap a trash bag or two with some tape over the pan, effectively sealing it from the debris that would fall from drilling the hole in the upper pan for the return line. Then drill the hole, vaccuum the hole with shop vac, pull the excess shavings out with your fingers (from both ends). It helps to have a vac with a long narrow hose attachment, like a computer vacuum. You could also fabricate one. Then remove the shavings that fell on the garbage bag, remove the bag, put Toyota gasket FIPIG on the pan, and put the pan back on.
Is that what you did? If not, do you someone who has?
-scott
03-07-03, 01:09 PM
#5
Originally posted by SC300T
Yes, that is exactly what I did. Just be very patient, and get ALL the shavings out.
Yes, that is exactly what I did. Just be very patient, and get ALL the shavings out.
The only difference is that kdiry130 put grease in the hole saw to trap the filings. I'm all for lazy...
-scott
03-07-03, 01:30 PM
#6
Lexus Test Driver
The grease idea sounds good in addition to what I mentioned. I would definitely not let the shavings get into the pan, though. lower the pan slightly and cover it---easiest way. Period. You'll be that much ahead of the game. I believe that you mentioned a magnet, I thought that portion of the engine was aluminum, but not positive, you may not be able to pickup the shavings like that. At any rate, if you drop the pan slightly, you will be able to reach in the hole you just created, AND you will be able to reach up into the block from the space between the pan (that you just lowered) and the block. Someone else mentioned a magnetic drain plug in the pan when you put it back together---it couldn't hurt. Also get 10qts of junk oil, fire it up, run it around the block at very low speed. Drain the oil, change it again after a couple days. Then put the good stuff in it and start digging into boost gently.
03-12-03, 02:16 PM
#7
Originally posted by SC300T
...Then remove the shavings that fell on the garbage bag, remove the bag, put Toyota gasket FIPIG on the pan, and put the pan back on.
...Then remove the shavings that fell on the garbage bag, remove the bag, put Toyota gasket FIPIG on the pan, and put the pan back on.
I'm sure FIPIG stands for something, but I don't know what it means.
How did you clean the oil pan lip and reseal the oil pan? Toyota doesn't have a "gasket" for the oil pan; you have to apply a sealant. If there's not much clearance between the oil pan and upper oil pan, how did you clean the surfaces?
-scott
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03-12-03, 03:41 PM
#8
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Originally posted by SC300T
The grease idea sounds good in addition to what I mentioned. I would definitely not let the shavings get into the pan, though. lower the pan slightly and cover it---easiest way. Period. You'll be that much ahead of the game. I believe that you mentioned a magnet, I thought that portion of the engine was aluminum, but not positive, you may not be able to pickup the shavings like that. At any rate, if you drop the pan slightly, you will be able to reach in the hole you just created, AND you will be able to reach up into the block from the space between the pan (that you just lowered) and the block. Someone else mentioned a magnetic drain plug in the pan when you put it back together---it couldn't hurt. Also get 10qts of junk oil, fire it up, run it around the block at very low speed. Drain the oil, change it again after a couple days. Then put the good stuff in it and start digging into boost gently.
The grease idea sounds good in addition to what I mentioned. I would definitely not let the shavings get into the pan, though. lower the pan slightly and cover it---easiest way. Period. You'll be that much ahead of the game. I believe that you mentioned a magnet, I thought that portion of the engine was aluminum, but not positive, you may not be able to pickup the shavings like that. At any rate, if you drop the pan slightly, you will be able to reach in the hole you just created, AND you will be able to reach up into the block from the space between the pan (that you just lowered) and the block. Someone else mentioned a magnetic drain plug in the pan when you put it back together---it couldn't hurt. Also get 10qts of junk oil, fire it up, run it around the block at very low speed. Drain the oil, change it again after a couple days. Then put the good stuff in it and start digging into boost gently.
03-12-03, 05:12 PM
#9
motorhead.....I think you wanted to get a pic of the tools required. The angle drill, 7/8" hole saw and the 3/4" pipe thread tap. I used a small scraper and a pocket knife to remove as much of the old stuff as I could. The fipg stuff is pretty thick and will seal the pan well. And a magnet wont work to remove the loose aluminum
gadgetSC
gadgetSC
Last edited by gadgetSC; 03-12-03 at 05:16 PM.
03-12-03, 06:27 PM
#10
Lexus Test Driver
FIPG
FIPG is Toyota's super duper version of gasket material in a tube.
Its Toyota Part# 00295-01281
Listed as Toyota Seal Packing
Just use a scraper... There is room, its just tedious. A good blob around the perimeter was all that is needed. Oil doesn't sit in this area, nor should it be under pressure, so don't worry too much about leaks.
BTW... I rented the angle drill from a tool rental place. Was pretty cheap.
Its Toyota Part# 00295-01281
Listed as Toyota Seal Packing
Just use a scraper... There is room, its just tedious. A good blob around the perimeter was all that is needed. Oil doesn't sit in this area, nor should it be under pressure, so don't worry too much about leaks.
BTW... I rented the angle drill from a tool rental place. Was pretty cheap.
Last edited by SC300T; 03-12-03 at 06:33 PM.
03-27-03, 08:38 AM
#12
Sorry to bring this thread back, but I just wanted to share my experience of drilling the oil pan.
First, I didn't need to rent the right-angle drill. Lowes has a $20 right-angle adapter for drills with removable chucks that worked fine. No problem using it to go through the block.
The idea of using grease in the hole saw worked beautifully. 90% of the filings ended up in the hole saw. Just pull it out and clean it every couple of minutes and add new grease until you break through the block.
Finally, the plastic bag trick caught what few remaining filings that would have dropped into the pan. I did use some WD40 to clean any remaining filings out that I couldn't get with my fingers (only cut two) before removing the plastic bag.
I'm about half way done tapping the block, but the fitting I received from Toyomoto doesn't seem to fit well. Hopefully, I'll get it threaded once the tapped hole is complete and clean.
The only remaining problem is cleaning and installing the oil pan. I also believe I bent it when popping it off the #1 oil pan. I'll have to straighten it out before reinstallation.
To everyone who contributed to this thread... THANKS!
-scott
First, I didn't need to rent the right-angle drill. Lowes has a $20 right-angle adapter for drills with removable chucks that worked fine. No problem using it to go through the block.
The idea of using grease in the hole saw worked beautifully. 90% of the filings ended up in the hole saw. Just pull it out and clean it every couple of minutes and add new grease until you break through the block.
Finally, the plastic bag trick caught what few remaining filings that would have dropped into the pan. I did use some WD40 to clean any remaining filings out that I couldn't get with my fingers (only cut two) before removing the plastic bag.
I'm about half way done tapping the block, but the fitting I received from Toyomoto doesn't seem to fit well. Hopefully, I'll get it threaded once the tapped hole is complete and clean.
The only remaining problem is cleaning and installing the oil pan. I also believe I bent it when popping it off the #1 oil pan. I'll have to straighten it out before reinstallation.
To everyone who contributed to this thread... THANKS!
-scott
Last edited by motorheaddown; 03-27-03 at 08:39 AM.
04-04-03, 11:13 PM
#13
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sorry to bring this back, but I would like to warn against trying to drop the oil pan without removing it. It is too much trouble and pointless without removing the pan because there is a metal plate that you also have to remove to get to the shavings. and then when you are trying to re-seal the pan it is a pain to get all the material out within the tight spaces. I went ahead and removed the crossmember and it was only an extra 2-3 hours of work, definately worth the extra time.
04-05-03, 07:36 AM
#14
Lexus Test Driver
----NOT!
What metal plate are you talking about? The one you were supposed to cover with a trash bag? I had no problems with any gasket material. It doesn't have to be perfect. The FIPIG worked just fine, I have no oil spots on the driveway. The oil pan gasket area isn't under pressure, and generally isn't a leak prone area as no oil sits there, oil in this area will precipitate downward.
So there are two choices:
1. spend an extra 3 hours
2. don't spend an extra 3 hours
What metal plate are you talking about? The one you were supposed to cover with a trash bag? I had no problems with any gasket material. It doesn't have to be perfect. The FIPIG worked just fine, I have no oil spots on the driveway. The oil pan gasket area isn't under pressure, and generally isn't a leak prone area as no oil sits there, oil in this area will precipitate downward.
So there are two choices:
1. spend an extra 3 hours
2. don't spend an extra 3 hours
Last edited by SC300T; 04-05-03 at 07:43 AM.
04-05-03, 12:41 PM
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The oil baffle is in the way. plus im sure you spent a pretty fair amount of time trying to get the fipg in the small area between pans were the crossmember is at. I guess I am trying to say that it is possible, but very tight and squirmy trying to do it all under the car, and the amount of security you get for spending the extra 3 hours is worth it.