Bean

iTrader: (1)

oil cloud is gone after some driving; only when i gun it, a little comes out

oil is still dripping; motor is too warm atm to work on... but i can see there is oil puddled on top of the crossmember... i have NO idea where its coming from

Lextreme

Bean,

What type of injectors are you using? I got some 7MGTE sitting at home. However, I just got 8 Mazda RX 7 550 cc injectors. I tried in my spare engine. The Jet is 1/4" longer in the 1UZ engine, otherwise everything fits fine.

Bean

iTrader: (1)

i've told you like 3 times; i'm using STOCK injectors

oil cloud is gone but FARK man there's still a damn oil leak and i'm pretty damn sure its NOT from the oil return or oil send line... what does that leave? the oil pan; i guess i'll have to FIPG the rim of it all around

and i think i'm leaking water too? there was water on the cardboard that i had put under the car to catch the drip; could be because the A/C was on; i dunno tho... is there a heater hose i might have hit?

oil is coming out at a steady stream now; the frustrations never end

wmulli

On the plus side, that should make it easier to find the leak!

Bean

iTrader: (1)

true; but i am by myself with no lift

wmulli

A lift?!?!? Lifts are for sissy's Jack that sucker up, put some stands under it, start it up, grab a flashlight , crawl under there and get DIRTY!

Heck, a few mouthfuls of oil never hurt anybody

But seriously, I wish you luck finding the leaks. The way I do it is to wipe everything as clean as possible, then start it up for just a minute, and go have a look. It sometimes takes a few iterations, but eventually you'll find it (or them).

Good luck and keep us informed!

Bean

iTrader: (1)

yeah i'll wipe everything down tomorrow and then work it like that

i am pretty sure its coming from the oil pan; because this is the only other place i touched that has oil pressure behind it... since the oil doesn't leak until the car is started; i'm assuming its caused by oil pressure or just an abundance of it in just the right place
its leaking off the front side of the crossmember in the middle...

gadgetSC

go buy some ramps and an inspection mirror

Bean

iTrader: (1)

i've already got ramps; and don't ask why i haven't used them

Bean

iTrader: (1)

got oil leak fixed; was the flange on the oil return on the block

got exhaust leak fixed; i found a ring in my Tial WG packaging that i didn't know was there... the WG was not sealing and so exhaust was flowing right around it... put ring in; no exhaust leak except where i haven't bolted the EGR down securely

car ran great on the first drivearound

then i park to take my gf for a ride; and it starts to break up at 4000rpms+
still got stock spark plugs and they got some miles on em plus oil coated all over them; so i'm going to put in some new ones that i have at .028 gap and they are 1 range colder than stock

Lex Luthor

You wouldn't rather start @ .30 or .32 gap and narrow it if needed? Glad to see the bugs being worked out...

SC300T

I've always found .028 to be the best. His a/f's aren't gonna be near ideal at the start .028 fires through a rich mixture a little easier under boost than the bigger gaps. The MSD box will help at idle and low speed with that amount of gap.

NGK 3330s? I always use the (BP?(R?)-7ES plugs. Not sure on the exact #.

Lex Luthor

I'd think with the MSD you'd still be able to fire through a rich mixture with a slightly larger gap, .028 seems a little narrow to me, but only you know what works best for you Scott. The 3330's aren't exactly the correct plug for the 2JZ, no? If I remember it's not the exact correct electrode design, I forget but I think the 3330 is not split, Scott hammer away @ me if i'm wrong, can't even remeber which plugs I ended up deciding to use, but soon as i'm home i'll check and post the PN.

SC300T

I'd do a search on the supraforums on the 3330s. There is a big debate over 3330s, 6097s and Denso Iridiums. All have their plusses and minuses. .028 is the gap BPU guys recommend, mainly because of the difficulty in getting the plug to fire correctly at higher cylinder pressures. Larger gaps are subject to more misfires under boost. Its true that a NA-T may be arguably different than a BPU Supra (less boost) but the overall cylinder pressures are probably just as high because of the 10:1 motor compression.

Angel

I run NGK 3330 gapped at .030-.032.