Bean

iTrader: (1)

check my kill in the kill forum... but i took out a modded old modular stang... was a nice run... 2-3 cars or so

Scott!!! you're the man i wanted to talk to... is it ok to run it to 7psi? should i adjust for any extra or less fuel up top?

i'm getting it on a wideband next weekend... but i'm figuring 7psi is fine to go with for now...i've got a lot of scores to settle; and people already know about my car running right now... i found out after the race with the stang; that someone i knew in his Talon AWD saw the whole race...

nope not me on the Canon forum

my GF has a Nikon 3100 that yours truly bought her for her birthday... i really should take some pics...

SC300T

Thats not you on the Canon G3 board?

7psi would be as high as I'd go without intercooler... Even then, I'd put in a 50/50 mix of race gas if you're planning on racing anyone---would be cheap insurance... As far as fuel... I don't know how your curve interacts with the actual a/fs cause I didn't have the wideband setup with the old cam. If I were you I'd leave it very rich for now. You just cant tell by a narrow band voltage. Any adjusting is just going to be guess work.

Bean

iTrader: (1)

Scott I'm running a RX-7 T2 core mounted in the front topside so i can use it as an air/water eventually but still getting good airflow :P

i got upgraded fuel pump and stock injectors, but i'm figuring 7psi is fine for now... alky injection will let me push past that; but that is after i get all the minor bugs ironed out

like my BOV, its not blowing off for some reason

Bean

iTrader: (1)

LOL

Scared a lot of people tonight; no one wanted to run when they heard my car... atmosphere vented ex wastegate

that ****er is LOUUUUD...

i was goin to TGI Fridays and some idiot in a sunfire was revvin at me so i gave him a 1st-2nd gear scream... and there was an accord ahead of us... and the lady had her window down and all we heard was "LORD JESUS!!!"
ROFL

car sounds quite mean

damn BOV wont blow off tho... GRR

friend thinks it might not be running enough boost for htat... but damn my other friend's SR20 swap is running a Type-H as well and his blows off fine (at 7psi i might add; but seems to blow off even without boost)

Bean

iTrader: (1)

ok fixed the BOV problem

had too many things running off the same boost source

wastegate and boost gauge are now same line
and BOV has its own line...

got a boost controller together from home depot parts (yes i know but this worked great on my talon)

Bean

iTrader: (1)

k this ball valve thing is SUPER sensitive man...
even a slight nudge jumps the boost like 5psi
i ran 9psi at one point; soon as i saw it rushing up there i let off...
got it set up at 6psi now... gonna wait until tuesday when i have time and light to get it to 7psi...

but DAMN!!! theres a noticable difference car wants to jump now hehe

spotted a 350z when taking my friend for a ride, tried to get him to run from a light but he wouldn't go... damn wuss...
i even gave him a nice lil spinout to entice him (along with a ROOOOOARRRR from the wastegate)
i was pissed... i wanna see what kind of improvements are made with 2 more psi

with the boost controller also, the turbo spools now about 1k rpms earlier than it did before
you can actually FEEL the ignition get advanced around 4000-4500rpms... it just starts pulling hard

Bean

iTrader: (1)

couple updates on the car

found out a couple months ago that my ignition was not dialed in correctly; was running WAY too advanced; doesnt seem to have caused any problems... i only ran the car like 2 - 3 times with the adjustment in the middle like its supposed to be stock

found out even adjusting all the way down that the car is still 1 degree advanced over stock... seems the last person who pulled the distributor was off by one tooth when they put it back in... i've got that on the to-do list.. for now at 6psi it wont hurt anything

i just ordered some injectors from a mkiii turbo off ebay... i've got my regulator and fuel pump ready to go... i just need to find another boost source for the boost controller (or tap the turbo compressor housing with a nipple if i could find out where to buy some)

i've got my clutch ready to go if my stock one gives out...

once i've got the ignition dialed in 3 degrees retarded, injectors installed, MAF installed, and car tuned right at 6psi... i'll run the boost to 10psi and see how it runs...

i've also got to vent the wastegate back into the downpipe... which brings in a whole new can of worms since the exhaust is rattling at the muffler mounting point...
i'm betting i can get the wastegate dump tube made no sweat... also helps that i've got a welder and an abrasive cutoff saw

hopefully in a month i'll be running around at 10psi and nearly 400rwhp

TGRich

Sounding good Bean, sounding good.....
Re: the distributor though, I seem to remember there wasn't any way you could mess that up because of the way the screw holes and all that line up. Basically, I thought there was only one right position.

Tim

SC300T

The drive gear on the distributor has a notch that lines up as the distributor is inserted. If the engine isn't at true TDC or the gear on the distributor somehow mis-aligns, it would be easy to get the timing off. Only thing is with so few teeth the timing would be *WAY* off. not by a couple degrees. Car may indeed run, but my guess is you'd be a minimum of 10 degrees off if not more.

Bean

iTrader: (1)

Scott when set in the middle of adjustment, which i've been told is stock, the timing IS off by 10 degrees or more... its only when I adjust it all the way down that its about 1 degree advanced