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Old 04-27-03, 07:31 AM
  #76  
SC300T
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run what numbers?
Well, instead of just guessing, try running the numbers on a turbo calculator. Computerwiz ran an intercooler on his setup to get those numbers. Omitting an intercooler drastically lowers the margin between boost/timing and detonation.

There are several factors here:
1. A 57 trim IS going to be significantly smaller than a 60-1 or T04E 60. Just look at the flow charts.
2. Most importantly: You're leaving out a critical piece: The intercooler. High intake air temps are the enemy of turbo systems. High temperature air yields less capability to make power, decreases detonation margins, re****s in less timing/boost capability.
3. You're planning on 10psi, but won't get 10psi without the intercooler or majorly retarded timing, both of which kill hp.
Old 04-27-03, 07:55 AM
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well i've seen two charts of the T04E-57... one shows it flowing a lot less than the 60 trim; and one only slightly less; i believe you're using the one from turbonetics; i looked at another one on some DSM site where it had everything measured in cfms
the SP57 is also based off the T04E-57 and it flows slightly less than a SP60 which is based off the T04E-60... i know i won't be making the 500rwhp that the SP57 is capable of; but i'm pretty sure i'll near 400rwhp somewheres.... and after that i'll get the intercooler setup... hell i might do the intercooler thing this week since i have to wait a while... eventually i'll be going to an SP63

the intercooler is a critical piece for numbers above 10psi for the most part; the T04 is not even working hard at 10psi; it won't be very warm flow; and the stock sidemount has a pressure drop; so when you run 12psi on it; you're actually running 13.5psi from the turbo... the power increase also comes from the boost increase... ESPECIALLY in your case since you're running 10:1 CR

not having an intercooler will net me a loss of MAYBE 15hp or so... TRUST me on this... i've messed with nonintercooled systems A LOT; and the ones that get the BIG hp increase are the little OEM T3s that are already working hard at 10psi and blowing super hot air... or the systems that have REALLY ****ty intercoolers already (like the DSMs)... you drop an intercooler on it; and run the same pressure at the manifold and you gain 35hp from it in most cases...

but i see a point in getting the boost up higher someway... BECAUSE the T04E is not really efficient at low boost levels like 6-7psi... there's a big flow increase when going to 15psi or greater...

Last edited by Bean; 04-27-03 at 08:10 AM.
Old 04-29-03, 12:44 PM
  #78  
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TurboXS Type-H BOV came in today it looks sweet and has everything with it that i need

i had bought some Bosch injector clips to fit my lucas injectors; after a little work with the dremel they fit; and i now have injector clips to work with my injectors; i only need to wire in the resistors and install them now
Old 04-29-03, 12:56 PM
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Does that have the blend recirc/atmosphere feature we were talking about earlier?
Old 04-29-03, 02:52 PM
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yeah; requires no recirc at all

this valve uses a piston instead of a valve... and it vents no air under normal (unboosted) driving conditions
it was a STEAL at $130 brand new

Last edited by Bean; 04-29-03 at 02:52 PM.
Old 04-29-03, 06:14 PM
  #81  
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grrr, was attempting to do injectors today; but i couldn't get the throttle body and y-split section off of the car

i got all the bolts loose; even the little one in the corner that is hard as hell to get to...

there are 5 vacuum lines running on top of a small BOV looking thingy that has a very large hard line running to the back of it; what is this big hard line? it has a large release nut on it too; and i'm pretty sure this is what was holding the top piece down; because thats where the tension was from
Old 04-29-03, 07:03 PM
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Bean.....thats your EGR system...and it is whats holding it down. There are also 2 coolant hoses on the bottom of the throttlebody. Another 4 nots holding a bracket under the intake side of the throttlebody.



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Old 04-29-03, 08:13 PM
  #83  
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Originally posted by gadgetSC
Bean.....thats your EGR system...and it is whats holding it down. There are also 2 coolant hoses on the bottom of the throttlebody. Another 4 nots holding a bracket under the intake side of the throttlebody.



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ok excellent...

yeah i got the 4 bolt bracket under the throttle body... looks like it also holds up the O2 sensor lines and looms

so i guess i pull the release nut off and get to work

iguess it'll have to wait until thursday
Old 04-29-03, 10:53 PM
  #84  
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Default your egr

glad to see you're on your way to na-t nirvana!

the bov looking thing is your egr. the pipe from it is the egr pipe. i think you'll need a 1" wrench(or big adjustable wrench) and 12mm socket, extrensions, and a universal joint. loosen the top nut w/ the wrench and slide it off the pipe. now use the socket, extensions, and universal joint to reach the bolts on the other end of the egr pipe. you'll need to reach it from behind/under the engine/intake while looking from on top. real fun. here's my trick, remove the top-most bolt and just loosen the bottom. do NOT remove the bottom one! this way, you can swing the egr pipe away from the intake and you don't drop the gasket thats there too. if you're lucky the gasket w/ stick to the pipe. after removing the other stuff the throttle body/ y-section should come off. don't forget there's a vacuum hose under the y-pipe. i had trouble getting @ it even w/ a 12" long needle nose plyer. have fun.

hope that helps. and good luck. if there's easier way please post, i'd like to know.

MIke

Originally posted by Bean
grrr, was attempting to do injectors today; but i couldn't get the throttle body and y-split section off of the car

i got all the bolts loose; even the little one in the corner that is hard as hell to get to...

there are 5 vacuum lines running on top of a small BOV looking thingy that has a very large hard line running to the back of it; what is this big hard line? it has a large release nut on it too; and i'm pretty sure this is what was holding the top piece down; because thats where the tension was from
Old 05-01-03, 05:32 PM
  #85  
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thx for the tip; will have to wait for tomorrow; going to see xmen2 tonight

got my manifold finished up along with the wastegate dump tube

things to do:

-get downpipe made for turbo so i can drive it to the exhaust shop
-get intake pipes setup; cut/weld em up
-drill spot for oil return, have oil send drilled/tapped
-mount boost gauge
-install injectors and LS400 maf; test before mounting turbo to get bugs ironed out
-mount turbo/manifold/w-g assembly and downpipe
Old 05-02-03, 10:46 PM
  #86  
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grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

car is still hot from driving and i think its the problem... BUT

even after removing the large nut and the two nuts that hold the egr valve in place; its stuck and will not come off... i can't find any lines or anything else holding it on... so i'm letting it sit overnight to cool
Old 05-03-03, 05:58 AM
  #87  
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Bean.....when your car cools....just reach in if you can and pull hard, it should come off. It might be stuck to the block where the gasket is. If all your bolts are off....it will come off. Do yourself a favor and get your hands on some egr block-off plates and be done with it, because you will have to face this everytime you remove your throttlebody. Since your turboing chances are good that you will have to do this a few times in the future. Once the egr system is gone....the throttle body comes off in no time. Good luck




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Old 05-03-03, 10:23 AM
  #88  
William N.
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GadgetSC....where did you get your EGR block off plates from?
Old 05-03-03, 10:52 AM
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sweet hope it doesn't trip a code or anything; i'll get a block off plate made today at the exhaust shop
Old 05-03-03, 01:03 PM
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my lucas fuel injectors have too small of an inlet; gonna need a new fuel rail and FPR

anyone used a new fuel rail with the existing banjo connections?


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