Bean

iTrader: (1)

MKIII supra turbo fuel pump most likely...

stock injectors are 330cc... considering on the stock 550s a supraTT running 8.5:1 compression can make about 500rwhp if he pushes it...

i'd figure a SC300 with 8.5:1 could at least do 300rwhp or so; and with 10:1 compression you can run prolly 350rwhp if you push it... remember SC300TURBO made like 440rwhp or so on 440s with no problem and fuel wasn't limiting him at that point if i recall; it was because he was running super rich

higher compression makes more horsepower with the same amount of fuel basically...

so i don't think 6.5psi would hurt me... i'd prolly be around the 300rwhp level (not much but hella faster than the 190 i was putting out before )

friend of mine told me to pick up some used RX7 injectors from p'cola next week when he visits... he said i can prolly get em for $20 for 4 in good shape... so about $30 for 6

SC300T

I have the MK3 Supra Turbo fuel pump. Nothing else, no FPR, no bigger injectors (installed). I'm just basing on boosting at normal temps and just looking at a crude autometer a/f gauge. At around 8psi, the gauge started to move from all green, to one yellow and three green (indicating that its running out of supply). As mentioned earlier, it could lean out at lower temps much more easily. I wouldn't consider this a safe way to run permanently unless you know what you're doing and limit boost when its cold. I'm installing a wideband 02 and EGT setup within the next week or two, so I could do some more pulls and give you an exact a/f ratio at a given temp. Would be handy for reference. Jeff runs 440s fine down in Miami, but you can't really say that the 440s would be ideal a car in Vermont or Maine on a cold day.

Bean

iTrader: (1)

i prolly ****ed my turbo

here's why:

i cranked it this morning; oil shot everywhere... it was coming from the oil send bolt; the bottom of the turbo on the return line; and the block...

i retightened everything; no more drips

now oil shoots out of the TURBINE outlet i pulled the return line and checked the top part of it; and there is no blockage; it shoots out of the turbo just fine...
i'm wondering if the line is clogged or if the fitting on the block return is blocked somehow... i know i drilled all the way through; or at least pretty damn sure...the drill bit pushed and then slid in real far all of a sudden; i know what a penetration feels like (on my engine block gentlemen ; ) )

the oil shoots out and gurgles out when i gas it; the car will hold a 1200 rpm idle for about 5-7 seconds then start running rough; if you gas it; it'll pop the revs back up again

is the turbo ****ed if the return line was blocked? i hope i didn't ruin my seals

Bean

iTrader: (1)

here's my theory on what is happening; someone please chime in at any time

once the engine cranks; if there is a block; that block causes an increase in oil pressure...
once the oil pressure becomes to great; the engine starts running rough?
once that happens i rev the engine which causes oil to shoot out the turbine outlet and immediately begin burning into blue smoke

the engine begins to die again and the smoke begins to clear; then i rev it again and turbo shoots out the back again...

i think there's a blockage somewhere... if all else fails; i'm going to punch a hole right into the oil pan with a hole punch and do a return that way...

i've got a -4an return line; a friend very familiar with turbos says this should be fine for a return line

i'm hoping that its just the line that is blocked or something; because that would be an easy fix

gadgetSC

Bean...If you have access to an air compressor or even jut one of the portable air tanks, you could use that and rubber fitting on the othe end of a hose to troubleshoot your blockage. definately less mess. If you use a rubber fitting you could just blow air through each section or line and know if its blokced. Good Luck, I know this ***** is frustrating.


gadgetSC-t

SC300T

Just drain the oil. Then put a funnel on the top of the return line. Feed the oil in. If it goes down smoothly you're ok.

BTW -4AN is WAY too small for a return line, IMHO... Mine is plumbed with -10AN of aeroquip. Hose ID is somewhere around 1/2 to 3/4 inch. The return hole in the block (pan) was somewhere around 7/8". Don't remember for sure, but its on my site on the Toyomoto instruction sheet. The return line MUST be very free flowing as the turbine bearings are very leaky. The oil enters the top of the bearing housing and must not be under any pressure, gravity takes it to the return line. Any excess pressure at all will cause the oil to come out the turbine. Its VERY sensitive.

When I first got my kit, I made the mistake of leaving the return line too long, there was extra hose that sort of went in an "S" before entering the block. This eventually over time caused a kink in the line, which blew oil out the exhaust. I bought a rebuild kit, rebuilt the turbo, only to find the kink upon re-assembly. Was 8hrs of work for a little stinkin mistake. Turbos are fairly easy and cheap to rebuild. I doubt you damaged anything, but if you did, its cheap to fix.

If you tapped the bolt near the oil filter, there isn't enough extra oil pressure to cause the car to run funny... You've got another issue unrelated. The oiling issue won't cause any drivabiliity problems.

Don't punch a hole in the oil pan itself, you'll mess things up. The return must be plumbed in an area that is above the sump, otherwise more blockage will result.

boredguy77

I used a 10 an on my return also. 4 should be for the pressurized side.

Bean

iTrader: (1)

i seriously doubt i can use a 10AN on my return mainly because the hole is not quite in the middle...
i may drill another hole and just use a flange instead

William N.

iTrader: (2)

Bean, have you taken any pics of your setup? Maybe if you could take some pics, more people could help you out...Good luck man. Sorry to hear that you're going through this trouble..

William

Bean

iTrader: (1)

definitely the line that is too small... my -4an is too small to handle it i guess

because i pulled the line and put it into an empty oil can... cranked it; and ran it...
just likebefore; the car idled for a bit longer than normal; prolly because the oil didn't back up so easily... just normal white smoke and a little blue burning off the remaining junk that was sitting there...

i pop the revs when its starts grumbling and instant blue smoke... gurgling out... the line is def too small
the oil can had a good bit of oil in it afterwards; so its coming out; just not fast enough

i'm wondering if a -6an would help or if i need to run a 10.. a 10 is going to require a flange and renting the drill again, unless i can use the single hole i've already got and just put a -10an on the flange itself

EDIT:
friend recommended -6an and said his was fine.... but he runs a restrictor in the oil send line to cut down the oil pressure...
other friend with a 280z with a 280zx turbo motor and big turbo says he runs a -8 and gets by perfectly fine and he's heard and seen this happening before...

SC300T

Do it right, do the -10. and don't put a flange on there, use the appropriate connections, rent the drill and re-do it. You'll need a 3/4" pipe thread tap and 29/32" drill bit or 7/8" hole saw bit. Something like Summit part# AER-FCM2531, then AER-FCM1014 x2 and the appropriate hose: AER-FCA1003. You'll also need the -AN to turbo outlet fitting, don't remember that part#. Don't cheap out. This is a critical part in the setup. Without a reliable return, you'll always be second guessing things.

Bean

iTrader: (1)

i can't redrill it; its offset; a -10 fitting will bang against the outside of the boss ring
i'm running a -8 and i'll most likely be using the flange (which btw is what supraTTs use; is this the wrong way?)

Bean

iTrader: (1)

anyone know how to fit the end fittings on a -8an line?

i've got the line cut; and now one is frayed because of my error; i dunno how to make the fittings stay on...

the bottom part you force on right? do you crimp it somehow? and then the top part screws into the bottom part while also pushing a tube down the SS line right?

i can't keep the bottom part from sliding up the line and coming off once the top part is screwed in all the way

Bean

iTrader: (1)

ok got line together; no more oil leak now

was scared at first but its just the oil burning out of the turbo that was already sitting there and the oil that was sitting on the manifold

like i said before; it was idling ok; it would hold a idle then start running rough just like before... assuming it was trying to go into closed-loop at that point and wasn't getting a reading from the O2 sensors

eventually the check engine light came on and now it won't idle at all
it just revs when you press the gas; but there's like nothing behind it; it just drops dead unless you hold the throttle

whats wrong? i've got both O2 sensors completely unplugged; thought it would idle/run off the ECU this way

Bean

iTrader: (1)

got oil leaks again

this time is coming from the COMPRESSOR

the car is still burning oil too; you can see the blue smoke come from the exhaust side of the turbo; whether its from oil being burnt IN the motor itself or if its just excess burning off the inside, i dunno

but oil IS coming out of the compressor housing; not the inlet but the outlet that runs to the throttle body
could some bolts be loose and cause this? or have i blown my turbo seals?
this is really disheartening
oil is dripping off the bottom of the oil pan in two places;i dunno where they are coming from... SIGH

car runs pretty rough; not nearly as smooth as before... and there's a little black smoke coming out; its running pretty damn rich; i got fuel smell all over my clothes and hair... i've got the AFC set to -10% at 1000rpms and i still get smoke