SC300T

For the Aeroquip stuff, you just press the hose end on the connector until you reach a ridge on the inside of the connector. Then you use oil on the male end (plug) of the connector, and thread it down on the female end (body of the hose end). It has to be put in a vise to get the maximum amount of torque on it. The two hex portions of the connectors should come very close together, say 1/8 or 1/16" inch apart, but not touching. Use aluminum wrenches or electrical tape on adjustable wrenches to keep the anodized finish in tact.

SC300T

Is your turbo brand new? If not I'd suspect that who ever sold it to you may have passed on a problem. Generally you'll just need a rebuild kit. Turbonetics.com carries the kits and can ship really quick. They seem to be good guys for that stuff.

2nd: Check the code... Is it a lean code? Need to know what is going on with the check engine light. You need to know if the car is running rich or lean. You bridge a couple connectors on the Diagnostic plug to put the ECU into a code spitting mode. It will be in morse code blinking the check engine light. It is outlined in the Lexus repair manuals (which are also a must). Those books have saved me so many times. I know they're expensive, but I can't imagine working on the car without them. What is the output from the 02 sensors? You have an air/fuel gauge, right???? That is a must. You always need to know at a minimum whether you're rich or lean. Even though you can't tune with an air/fuel gauge, it helps in cases like yours where the car just isn't running right.

gadgetSC

Bean, the car wont run without the oxygen sensors connected. No signal makes the ECU think that it has a lean condition and increases the fuel output making it overly rich. The ECU looks for a signal from the O2 sensors during the first 2 min of warm-up to set closed loop operation. If this signal is missing, it will give you the check engine light. I went through this trying to run without the sensors, so I ran one and jumpered both signals at the ecu harness. Cured that problem. Hope this helps.




gadgetSC-t

Bean

iTrader: (1)

i don't have anything i can put the sensor on tho

i can plug it in; but then plug the sensor into what exhaust path?

which pin controls which sensor reading? its pin 47 and 48; i just dunno which is which?

Bean

iTrader: (1)

damn i'm so stupid

i didn't even THINK about it; but i reinitialized my AFC right before i recranked the car after i saw the CE light... i THOUGHT it was going to stay in karman vortex sensor mode...

car starts idling badly blowing fuel everywhere; you can smell it in my clothes; smells like i just got done mowing the lawn... black smoke

5min after my last post i reset the ECU and AFC again to check... i look and holy ****... its sitting in hotwire mode

DUH!!! i pop it in karman and the car hasn't gone into O2-sensorless CE-light mode YET but it seemed to run MUCH MUCH better
still dripping a bit of oil; going to get exhaust shop to pinpoint it tomorrow

wish me luck!!!

SC300T

If you drive in stop and go traffic, the CEL won't go off until you get on to the highway for a period. The ECU needs to see two steady 2500+rpm runs of 5 mins or so without seeing an 02 signal for the CEL to light. And yes, the car should run mostly rich but not way rich without 02 signal---at least mine does.

Bean

iTrader: (1)

ok exhaust shop has finished my exhaust; but they are having trouble with my intake; its too close together...
and my turbo is leaking oil out of the compressor housing now; its shooting it into the intake and gets burned off

and i've still got an oil leak; its dripping off the bottom of the oil pan; i have no idea where this is coming from...
it'll prolly be easier once the exhaust is mounted on the car
and i'll be putting an intercooler on the car this week since i'll have to reroute the intake piping and make the turbo point down

Lex Luthor

Hope it works out for you..

boredguy77

these are the headaches of going turbo that most people don`t recognize. If you feel like quiting, just kick back for a second let your headache go away. almost all people that install turbos have kinks, they all just don`t post the problems. Good luck and if you need any help just ask, also I might have found the wiring diagram in english for the s-itc, unless you already found them I can try to get you one.

Bean

iTrader: (1)

half of intercooler piping routed; i'm not happy with how it looks; its not stealthy; the pipe is painted black now but it comes under the radiator and is visible if you look for it... intercooler is mounted up in the cavity so i can set it up as an air/water at my leisure

we'll have the rest of the piping done tomorrow before lunch

i'll eventually have it redone if i decide i don't like it

SC300T

Many of Bean's problems are a result of going it alone and not buying a complete kit. He's saving alot of money, though and that is what counts. I myself don't have the patience or resolve to figure out all the custom solutions and elected for a pre-built kit. I paid extra, but I'm very happy with the results.

Bean

iTrader: (1)

Yes I can vouch for that. There IS a LOT of hassle involved here guys. If you want something easy to install; get a prebuilt kit or most of one anyway...

My route is vastly cheaper but it comes at different prices than mere money. If you don't have money; then its really the only way to go.

There are many roads to Rome

Though through my route; i have learned quite a bit about this motor and chassis... it is quite nice

gadgetSC

Bean.....I know what you mean about suggesting a full kit to people. I thought this many times while working on my own. I didnt do a full kit but it was close, and I was determined to do it all on my own. At one point I got so stressed I couldnt sleep and actually developed a facial twitch We feel your pain. I wish that I could give you more constructive advice but I am very new to this stuff. I would only suggest that you try to be more receiptive to advice from some of the senior turbo guys.
I know that the advice doesnt always come across as nice as we'd like or as quick as we'd like. Enough rambling.......Just wanted to say keep at it and good luck.




gadgetSC-t

Bean

iTrader: (1)

ok got the car home; has an exhaust leak at the downpipe; i can fix that i don't think i tightened it enough

the car breaks up over 4k-5k rpms

and it spools extremely slow... i'm talking 4k before 1psi is reached; i think this is tied into the breakup problem

i think its due to the spark plugs...

bov is not releasing; possibly because i wasn't running more than 1-2psi when i let off? it made the squirrel sound like impeller hitting the pressurized air

i have a very nice oil leak on the car; and i have no idea where its from; its from somewhere over the crossmember; because the crossmember has oil on it and is dripping from the bottom...

oil is still burning out of the exhaust; but i'm told this will clear and is because of oil still being in the turbo and not being able to escape the way i had it setup before

now that i've got an intercooler on it the turbo points down and it is burning a lot more oil; none at first startup but steadily increasing
and now its tapering off to little puffs... so thats a good sign for the turbo

but i dunno where this oil leak could be coming from

i thought it might have been the oil pan but it doesn't look like it; i'm curious if its dripping from somewhere else...
going to check on spark plugs and other stuff

SC300T

Because of the relatively simple bearing structure and oil control rings, the turbo has to be close to level with the drain facing straight down. If you take one of these apart, you'll know what I mean. The oil control rings halfs are basically loose in the housing. There is no rubber or other type of seal per se. Just the (Brass?) ring(s). Likewise if there is any oil pressure within the turbo housing there will also be oil coming from the seals, these things have to run near 0psi of oil pressure in the housing, it has to just drip down from the top to the bottom---no pressure, that is why the drain line has to be so much bigger to not create any pressure. If you don't have the turbo clocked correctly there will be issues with oil consumption. This has been discussed on the thread on the custom LS400 turbo.