Been working on a swap for awhile now and I'm still not getting a spark. I have done tons of research and checked cam sensors, crank angle sensors ignitor wiring and a few other things. I've had the engine in for a month now with the same problem... Any help would be appreciated

 

That's really Vague..

Do you have power at the coils, power at the ignitor?

Did you check for continuity from the coils to Ignitor? From ignitor to ecu?

What wiring are you using?

Any modification done to the harness??

 

do you have an FSM ? Gotta start tracing wires on the power circuits and checking with a multimeter.

 

I've got power at the coils.
How do i check for continuity?
Im using the stock 1jz harness.

 

Man that sounds awful... At this point i kinda have no choice tho

 

gotta go back to old carburetted muscle cars if you don't want to deal with wiring

continuity is checked with a multimeter... go wikipedia it.. you got a lot of learning to do if you want to get this swap to run on your own!

cheers,
Marko

 

Is there a way to troubleshoot your igniter and ecu besides trying on anther car and taking the ecu apart?

 

Who did the wiring? Is it done properly? Does the cel come on at key on? What did the 1jz come out of?

 

Stock harness. I extended the body plugs. Cel does not come on. I'm decent at wiring so I'm confident it's right. Soarer swap... Is there a way top test a igniter? Or an ECU?

 

Soarer swaps aren't exactly plug and play even though they plug in. There's more stuff to be done if that's all you did. If you still have the stock harness from your car and you are in fact good at wiring, you can figure out what needs to be done with a multimeter using continuity, a jzz30/jzx90 pinout, and an aristo pinout for the small plug of the stock ecu as the SC plug has all the igsw/mrel/+b/w/batt **** in the same place

 

What year model is your car? I guess it's a twin turbo/non vvti motor you're Swapping in? I did like you and just extended the body plugs and it worked (besides the mods for tach and temp). My car is a -94. It didn't start at first, because I had forgotten to connect the groundwire that goes from the backside of the block to the firewall. Have you checked that you have good contact on that one?

 

Car is a 95. Non vvti swap from a soarer... I'll check that next.

 

Lettut, there is 100% zero way that the ground from the back of the cylinder head to the firewall will prevent this from firing on his car, and it didn't fix yours either. That's a wild goose chase you're sending him on. The only important grounds are the ones that go to the intake from the engine harness, two of them for a 1jz. And one for battery to chassis. Car will run fine. Having another from battery to block is helpful, but isn't technically required. I've fired one of these up on the ground, as have many people, and there's zero firewall to bolt a ground strap to.

Have you verified your fuel pump is working? Have you done the 12v mod behind the driver's side interior panel? That's first place Id look.

If that's good, Id confirm key on has 12v at injectors, coils, igniter, iacv, o2.

If that checks out Id pull a set of coils, put spare spark plugs in em, and set em on the cam cover or something so I can watch for spark as I crank over.

From there, if spark is good, Id be looking at cam/crank sensors, timing off, or bad ecu.

Have you done any of this?

 

My apologies. Just trying to be helpful. The blind leading the blind

 

12v mod is done and the pump is on.

I have 12v at the injectors, coils and igniter i kno, not sure on the iacv. The o2 sensors was cut, so i know it has no power, didnt think that would cause it to not spark tho.