1993 SC300 won't start - Oil in spark plugs?
#1
1993 SC300 won't start - Oil in spark plugs?
My spark plugs are DRENCHED in oil. I'm thinking some oil got in the combustion chamber as well. How would I go about removing this oil in the combustion chamber? I understand I need to replace my valve cover gaskets in order to properly fix this as well.
My spark plug tips were touching because of the oil in between. I'm thinking that's the cause of my crank-but no start problem. Anyone agree?
My spark plug tips were touching because of the oil in between. I'm thinking that's the cause of my crank-but no start problem. Anyone agree?
#2
My spark plugs are DRENCHED in oil. I'm thinking some oil got in the combustion chamber as well. How would I go about removing this oil in the combustion chamber? I understand I need to replace my valve cover gaskets in order to properly fix this as well.
My spark plug tips were touching because of the oil in between. I'm thinking that's the cause of my crank-but no start problem. Anyone agree?
My spark plug tips were touching because of the oil in between. I'm thinking that's the cause of my crank-but no start problem. Anyone agree?
You can absorb all of the standing oil with paper towels/rags and remove the easily accessible spark plugs and dry them off, assuming you still have the intake manifold in the way. It should start but will become full of oil after a while; not sure how bad the leakage is. The no-start issue will then re-occur.
.
#3
Dude,
You can absorb all of the standing oil with paper towels/rags and remove the easily accessible spark plugs and dry them off, assuming you still have the intake manifold in the way. It should start but will become full of oil after a while; not sure how bad the leakage is. The no-start issue will then re-occur.
.
You can absorb all of the standing oil with paper towels/rags and remove the easily accessible spark plugs and dry them off, assuming you still have the intake manifold in the way. It should start but will become full of oil after a while; not sure how bad the leakage is. The no-start issue will then re-occur.
.
#4
Dude,
That's the case with too much water, but not usually with oil. The engine will start with a bit of smoke as the oil is burned off, then it should be fine. If you want to be super safe you could pull all of the spark plugs and turn over the engine with the starter. Put paper towels/towels over the spark plugs holes to catch splattering oil from the cylinders, if there is any. At the point, replace the spark plugs and it should start fine, with a bit of smoke as I previously mentioned.
Good luck
Last edited by freakness; 09-28-15 at 07:32 PM.
#5
My spark plugs are DRENCHED in oil. I'm thinking some oil got in the combustion chamber as well. How would I go about removing this oil in the combustion chamber? I understand I need to replace my valve cover gaskets in order to properly fix this as well.
My spark plug tips were touching because of the oil in between. I'm thinking that's the cause of my crank-but no start problem. Anyone agree?
My spark plug tips were touching because of the oil in between. I'm thinking that's the cause of my crank-but no start problem. Anyone agree?
I would not remove the spark plugs until you get the oil cleaned out. pull the wires off and hose them down with CRC electrical contact cleaner. Spray some brake clean down into the tubes...wear eye protection, blow out with an air hose and repeat if oil is still present. if you don't want to change the valve cover and tube gaskets, tighten the valve cover bolts a half turn or so and this may slow down the leak until you can afford or have the time to replace the gaskets. Just make sure you clean the oil and dirt from the tubes before you remove the spark plugs, lots of crunchy stuff is probably mixed in with the oil and you really don't want that inside the combustion chamber.
#6
A little late for Cylinder 1 + 2 now. Is there anyway for me to make sure the "crunchy stuff" won't be left in the combustion chamber? I was hoping cranking without the plugs would do, but now that you mention it, it's a pretty scary thing now
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#8
Clean up the rest of them, put it back together, start it, and if it develops a miss pull those two plugs, re-gap and put them back in. If anything is in there you will only hear it for a second or two.
#9
I'm currently making this tool that I can use to suck out the contaminants in my combustion chamber. The big white circle piece will attach to my shop vacuum and it should have quite a bit of vacuum at the other end. I really hope I don't lose compression because of those contaminants in the oil that went down in there.
#10
I'm currently making this tool that I can use to suck out the contaminants in my combustion chamber. The big white circle piece will attach to my shop vacuum and it should have quite a bit of vacuum at the other end. I really hope I don't lose compression because of those contaminants in the oil that went down in there.
Dude,
You need to chillax. Turn the engine over a few times manually or activate the starter and see if anything splatters out onto a catch rag after you removed the spark plugs. That's all you need to do. It doesn't need to be surgically sterile in the combustion chambers.
.
#11
I'm going through with the valve cover gasket change. That way I have easier access to the spark plug holes and can clean them out pretty well. Also so the problem doesn't happen again.
Quick question, i found some sort of oil on the bottom of the throttle body from the intake pipe. I tried to track it down but it only goes to some sort of tube similar to a PCV? If I'm correct, the PCV valve is on the other side of the throttle body in the driver's side? Should I replace that valve? What is t called?
Quick question, i found some sort of oil on the bottom of the throttle body from the intake pipe. I tried to track it down but it only goes to some sort of tube similar to a PCV? If I'm correct, the PCV valve is on the other side of the throttle body in the driver's side? Should I replace that valve? What is t called?
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