Bought a JDM 2jzGE engine to swap
10-30-15, 09:31 PM
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Bought a JDM 2jzGE engine to swap
Hey CL, just bought a JDM 2jzGE with 45k miles to replace my USDM 2jzGE which is currently in the car but coming out saturday or sunday. The JDM engine didnt come with ECU or harness but i can use my USDM, i dont really care for smog(EGR), and im using my throttle body since the JDM didnt come with one. So, do i just connect everything like normal with the MAF? Any sensors/plugs that will not plug in or will not be used and left unplugged? Ill also be putting in new water pump, and other maintenance on the new motor. Are there any things i should look out for/do while the motor is still out? Thanks
10-31-15, 12:37 AM
#2
Depending on the year of your SC300 there may be some very minor differences in what hooks up on the fuel rail and top intake manifold area but most of it should be the same, especially if you are pulling the harness from your USDM and swapping it onto the JDM engine. I would swap over as many electronics as possible from your original engine. Sensors on the block and head should be mostly the same though.
Not sure if there are any differences with the upper part of the exhaust manifolds. Best to check that. You should swap your USDM #1 cat over.
There might also be some additional differences with the vacuum routing but I really don' t know offhand. Maybe not but again, just good to double check that.
Not having an EGR head in Cali is definitely going to affect your smog results. You won't pass the dyno sniffer tests without that system in place. And you will probably get a CEL light. I know you mentioned you don't care but just be aware of that, however you're doing registration & smog, etc. You won't be doing it the normal way.
As for standard things to do with the engine out on a stand:
-Timing belt, tensioner, idler pulley (if needed)
-Replace water pump with USDM GE
-new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor
-Check to see if valve cover gaskets are leaking. If so, replace while doing your spark plugs.
-If doing valve cover gaskets, maybe replace cam seals
-New #1 and #2 O2 sensors on exhaust manifold.
-Replace PCV valve & rubber hose if needed (not sure if JDM GE valve covers have this or not but you could swap your USDM covers over if not)
-Check health of the harmonic balancer. Address with replacement during T-belt service... if needed.
-Check all your vacuum lines.
-replace front main seal
-replace rear main seal
Those are all the really obvious things since you'd have total access to the engine.
I'd still strongly advise you to swap over your USDM head for EGR function since you're in CA but it's up to you.
If you don't mind my asking, what's wrong with your original engine?
Not sure if there are any differences with the upper part of the exhaust manifolds. Best to check that. You should swap your USDM #1 cat over.
There might also be some additional differences with the vacuum routing but I really don' t know offhand. Maybe not but again, just good to double check that.
Not having an EGR head in Cali is definitely going to affect your smog results. You won't pass the dyno sniffer tests without that system in place. And you will probably get a CEL light. I know you mentioned you don't care but just be aware of that, however you're doing registration & smog, etc. You won't be doing it the normal way.
As for standard things to do with the engine out on a stand:
-Timing belt, tensioner, idler pulley (if needed)
-Replace water pump with USDM GE
-new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor
-Check to see if valve cover gaskets are leaking. If so, replace while doing your spark plugs.
-If doing valve cover gaskets, maybe replace cam seals
-New #1 and #2 O2 sensors on exhaust manifold.
-Replace PCV valve & rubber hose if needed (not sure if JDM GE valve covers have this or not but you could swap your USDM covers over if not)
-Check health of the harmonic balancer. Address with replacement during T-belt service... if needed.
-Check all your vacuum lines.
-replace front main seal
-replace rear main seal
Those are all the really obvious things since you'd have total access to the engine.
I'd still strongly advise you to swap over your USDM head for EGR function since you're in CA but it's up to you.
If you don't mind my asking, what's wrong with your original engine?
Last edited by KahnBB6; 10-31-15 at 04:17 AM. Reason: Minor update.
10-31-15, 11:51 AM
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Depending on the year of your SC300 there may be some very minor differences in what hooks up on the fuel rail and top intake manifold area but most of it should be the same, especially if you are pulling the harness from your USDM and swapping it onto the JDM engine. I would swap over as many electronics as possible from your original engine. Sensors on the block and head should be mostly the same though.
Not sure if there are any differences with the upper part of the exhaust manifolds. Best to check that. You should swap your USDM #1 cat over.
There might also be some additional differences with the vacuum routing but I really don' t know offhand. Maybe not but again, just good to double check that.
Not having an EGR head in Cali is definitely going to affect your smog results. You won't pass the dyno sniffer tests without that system in place. And you will probably get a CEL light. I know you mentioned you don't care but just be aware of that, however you're doing registration & smog, etc. You won't be doing it the normal way.
As for standard things to do with the engine out on a stand:
-Timing belt, tensioner, idler pulley (if needed)
-Replace water pump with USDM GE
-new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor
-Check to see if valve cover gaskets are leaking. If so, replace while doing your spark plugs.
-If doing valve cover gaskets, maybe replace cam seals
-New #1 and #2 O2 sensors on exhaust manifold.
-Replace PCV valve & rubber hose if needed (not sure if JDM GE valve covers have this or not but you could swap your USDM covers over if not)
-Check health of the harmonic balancer. Address with replacement during T-belt service... if needed.
-Check all your vacuum lines.
-replace front main seal
-replace rear main seal
Those are all the really obvious things since you'd have total access to the engine.
I'd still strongly advise you to swap over your USDM head for EGR function since you're in CA but it's up to you.
If you don't mind my asking, what's wrong with your original engine?
Not sure if there are any differences with the upper part of the exhaust manifolds. Best to check that. You should swap your USDM #1 cat over.
There might also be some additional differences with the vacuum routing but I really don' t know offhand. Maybe not but again, just good to double check that.
Not having an EGR head in Cali is definitely going to affect your smog results. You won't pass the dyno sniffer tests without that system in place. And you will probably get a CEL light. I know you mentioned you don't care but just be aware of that, however you're doing registration & smog, etc. You won't be doing it the normal way.
As for standard things to do with the engine out on a stand:
-Timing belt, tensioner, idler pulley (if needed)
-Replace water pump with USDM GE
-new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap & rotor
-Check to see if valve cover gaskets are leaking. If so, replace while doing your spark plugs.
-If doing valve cover gaskets, maybe replace cam seals
-New #1 and #2 O2 sensors on exhaust manifold.
-Replace PCV valve & rubber hose if needed (not sure if JDM GE valve covers have this or not but you could swap your USDM covers over if not)
-Check health of the harmonic balancer. Address with replacement during T-belt service... if needed.
-Check all your vacuum lines.
-replace front main seal
-replace rear main seal
Those are all the really obvious things since you'd have total access to the engine.
I'd still strongly advise you to swap over your USDM head for EGR function since you're in CA but it's up to you.
If you don't mind my asking, what's wrong with your original engine?
Last edited by funknstein; 10-31-15 at 11:54 AM.
10-31-15, 11:52 AM
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10-31-15, 02:51 PM
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Thanks that helped a lot! I have a 93 sc300, I dont have smog till next year and by then itll be a track only car. It had 175k miles, and i think it had a cracked block/head since it overheated and coolant flooded the spark plugs. What do you mean swap as many electronics? Sorry, new at this and this will be my first "big job"
What I meant before was that in addition to your USDM harness you should swap over as many electronic bits on the top of the engine that aren't already mirrored by identical sensors on your JDM engine. Sensors themselves screwed into the block, head, intake, etc. won't need to be changed. Those should all be identical. A lot of my suggestion had to do with your having that much better of a chance at at least passing the smog visual but also just to preserve normal engine operation. Just double check that most things are identically mirrored on both engines. All the important things should be.
It'll be a big job, sure. But I think you'll have the best experience by just double checking that everything fits where it should before you drop the engine in. If you're tracking the car are you also planning to do an NA-T build?
And Kris is right: since you're using your USDM harness and ECU, you should swap over the USDM MAF to match as well.
10-31-15, 04:26 PM
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Ah, okay. That's a bad break at only 175k. Sorry to hear. If you're good for smog for the next year and are only tracking it after that then it won't matter.
What I meant before was that in addition to your USDM harness you should swap over as many electronic bits on the top of the engine that aren't already mirrored by identical sensors on your JDM engine. Sensors themselves screwed into the block, head, intake, etc. won't need to be changed. Those should all be identical. A lot of my suggestion had to do with your having that much better of a chance at at least passing the smog visual but also just to preserve normal engine operation. Just double check that most things are identically mirrored on both engines. All the important things should be.
It'll be a big job, sure. But I think you'll have the best experience by just double checking that everything fits where it should before you drop the engine in. If you're tracking the car are you also planning to do an NA-T build?
And Kris is right: since you're using your USDM harness and ECU, you should swap over the USDM MAF to match as well.
What I meant before was that in addition to your USDM harness you should swap over as many electronic bits on the top of the engine that aren't already mirrored by identical sensors on your JDM engine. Sensors themselves screwed into the block, head, intake, etc. won't need to be changed. Those should all be identical. A lot of my suggestion had to do with your having that much better of a chance at at least passing the smog visual but also just to preserve normal engine operation. Just double check that most things are identically mirrored on both engines. All the important things should be.
It'll be a big job, sure. But I think you'll have the best experience by just double checking that everything fits where it should before you drop the engine in. If you're tracking the car are you also planning to do an NA-T build?
And Kris is right: since you're using your USDM harness and ECU, you should swap over the USDM MAF to match as well.
Last edited by funknstein; 10-31-15 at 07:50 PM.
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11-02-15, 02:31 PM
#8
The GTE ECU mod is a solid choice!
The fuel line removal and driveshaft removal aren't in my area of expertise, sorry. I know someone else here can offer real world advice for both based on their experiences.
To me it would make sense that with the car jacked up in front (on stands of course) and the under tray removed, you'd want to have a pan underneath and loosen the fuel line so as to let gas drain down and lose pressure in that line until you can remove it safely. If there is a danger of extremely pressurized fuel that makes this unsafe I am unaware.
I'd be much more comfortable with your taking advice from a more learned member on this topic. Or see if you find your answer in a search.
The front driveshaft section should slip out of the rear of your transmission, yes, but I do think you're supposed to remove it before pulling your engine. Otherwise it would just fall out haphazardly. The splines are not held in by any bolts. It's the transmission itself and the center bearing and the rest of the full driveshaft assembly that keep the splines engaged.
The fuel line removal and driveshaft removal aren't in my area of expertise, sorry. I know someone else here can offer real world advice for both based on their experiences.
To me it would make sense that with the car jacked up in front (on stands of course) and the under tray removed, you'd want to have a pan underneath and loosen the fuel line so as to let gas drain down and lose pressure in that line until you can remove it safely. If there is a danger of extremely pressurized fuel that makes this unsafe I am unaware.
I'd be much more comfortable with your taking advice from a more learned member on this topic. Or see if you find your answer in a search.
The front driveshaft section should slip out of the rear of your transmission, yes, but I do think you're supposed to remove it before pulling your engine. Otherwise it would just fall out haphazardly. The splines are not held in by any bolts. It's the transmission itself and the center bearing and the rest of the full driveshaft assembly that keep the splines engaged.
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