gerrb

iTrader: (34)

y-pipe on its way out of Atlanta today ...hopefully that is Craig's only problem now.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Thank you Gerry!! Hope so too. Everything else checks out on the EGR and engine in general. It's running fine now, cold startup and all. So long as I can make the CEL 71 go away I will be good to go and move on.


Anything else I need to address that isn't related to this thread's topics:

-I am looking at a reman PS pump install sometime soon (but this is limited to intermittent whining on my original right now; I may do a TT PS reservoir conversion at the same time)

-a new rear diff pinion seal (very, very, very minor leak that's come up)

-having an original firewall coolant hose and clamp replaced (I have a new OEM hose set aside) since it seems to have an extremely minor intermittent leak (which I can never catch in action) at the original twist-clamp.

I'm not worried about those things and will address them soon after solving this one. They're straightforward in comparison.

Ali, that's telling and annoying that the EGR intake tube area is the very place it does get so clogged. Once Gerry's manifold is in the car I will take my old one to a place that can replace the 13mm dia. freeze plug so that I can clean out that section-- just to have it set aside. At that point there is nothing to lose popping out the plug and trying. I also just want to see for myself what's inside there.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

If your car was running rough at idle and you got that error code 71 , it can be that there is too much exhaust gas going back to the YPipe but based on your post it runs fine . And you have covered the EGR Vacuum Modulator , EGR Valve , EGR Temp Sensor and the VSV which leads me to think that the only remaining item is a clogged EGR passage which is kinda in line with your diagnosis that there is hardly any air coming out of the holes on the pipe inside the Ypipe when you blow into that EGR hole passage.

The ypipe sent to you gives out a good pressure of air out of those pipe holes when you blow into that EGR hole which means it is not that clogged. Hope it really solves your problem.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

A couple of times since the TPS sensor and fuel filter install I've noticed ever, ever so slightly rough idle. But this was also at the tail end of the engine coming to temperature. And I've only noticed it once or twice while at a stoplight. Engine idle level has become normal per TSRM spec.

I have thought it's entirely possible the EGR gasses were being sent back into the pipes and apparatus by the manifold blockage but no, I have not experienced drivability issues after the TPS sensor, fuel filter, distributor rotor and ECU reset.

I hope the pipe really solves this last problem too. I think it will because I confirmed my original "Y" wasn't flowing well at all. Once it's in I am expecting all will be fine.

Aside, I went to an independent auto parts store yesterday and had them order a couple of steel freeze plug sizes: I think they were :

FREEZE PLUG DIAMETER (measured on manifold with caliper gauge): 20.75mm

Ordered: Dorman 20mm BRASS plug (P/N: 565-101) but brass on aluminum is not a good idea. Plus this isn't a very good fit and I believe it may have a pinhole(?) for some reason which rules it out.

There is a Dorman 20mm steel plug (555-104) but probably a better fit is the Dorman 20.76mm steel plug (555-013). Or a steel freeze plug in 13/16ths which is the same masurement as 20.64mm.

It was recommended to me that a freeze plug should be sealed with something when tapping a new one into the manifold plug area.

Additional small plug area near EGR valve mating surface: 14.9mm (measured on manifold)

Ordered Dorman 14.80mm METAL plug (P/N: 555-114).

I am not sure is using a BRASS freeze plug on an ALUMINUM intake manifold is a good idea, since putting the two metals together is usually a recipe for causing corrosion. At least when dealing with radiators, radiator drain plugs and coolant. No coolant here, obviously but still it is better to source a steel plug like the factory one.


They may or may not work but after your manifold is installed and I get the car smogged I will be opening up the original "Y" and may try putting one of the aftermarket plugs in once that's been cleaned.

But that won't be a priority. It will just be set aside once it's been messed with.

All of this troubleshooting the GE EGR system has, however, made me want to make sure my USDM GTE manifold's EGR port and the pipe are clean. I already have to do some carbon cleaning to the two used GTE EGR valves I have.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

^^ Yes, this is what I feel my original Y-Pipe must be like in that small section: completely clogged. I will be making a science project out of my old one. I also just today realized there is another smaller freeze plug that allows direct access into the first straight section of this EGR passage at the EGR valve mating surface opening.


Well... the news today is... I think there has been success, at long last!!

Thank you, thank you, thank you Gerrb! The spare Y-Pipe you sent me seems to have done the trick!

When I arrived today I went about using more throttle body cleaner, scrubbing out any carbon deposits I could find and cleaning up the very first part of the EGR passage area. I did not attempt to saturate the EGR passage fully with cleaner this time, since you confirmed it had flow.

Once all that prep was done I got to work removing my old Y-Pipe, transferring over the steel vacuum lines and reassembling the engine top-side.

It turned over easily and once warmed up I took it for a test drive. The engine response actually felt a bit better now. The big hurrah moment came when I pulled over, popped the hood and put my vacuum hand pump directly on the original (cleaned) EGR valve.

The engine stumbled almost immediately and it nearly stalled out! This is the first time I've been able to get it to do that.

I still need to observe at least 100 trouble-free trip odometer miles and I need to get my emissions pre-test done but I think this was the final solution! And the clogging may have contributed to causing the failures of the EGR VSV and EGR Vacuum modulator. No way to know that for sure since the mileage on both (and the EGR temp sensor) are all high at 239k but with backed up EGR gas flow it's possible.

I'm very happy tonight! Thank you very much, Gerry!

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Am glad it helped and hopefully no other problems and you can get your car to pass the CA required tests.

I don't think it is even wise to use any liquid cleaner on that EGR passage without taking out the freeze plug. What will happen is any dislodged dirt will just be pushed into the pipe and clog the holes of the pipe inside the y-pipe.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

I'm very confident that the car will pass its emissions test now. Being able to confirm the EGR valve can induce stalling now tells me that. Also, my #1 cat is still fairly new (OEM from 2010) and my #2 cat, while not OEM, is compliant and was installed in early 2014.

I completely agree about being careful with liquid cleaner in the EGR passage. I did use a bit in the passage on your Y manifold but only while holding it at an angle that allowed draining rather than pooling inside. I wanted to make sure I avoided exactly the issue you're warning me against. I only wanted the first bend of the passage clean and I think it worked out fine.

Conversely, I think I might have made the clogging worse on my original Y-manifold since I did not pop out the freeze plug.

Cleaning the old one and tapping in a new replacement plug after the measurements I've taken in the last couple of days will be a side project. And I will take some pictures to show in a thread.

Right now I'm on the fence about a brass freeze plug being used on an aluminum manifold. I'm trying to locate a steel or other alloy plug in the same 20mm measurement. The two OEM plugs appear to be steel.

But that will be separate. As of now, I'm breathing a sigh of relief that the entire EGR system seems to be working correctly again.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

So far so good with the recent replacement of the Y-Pipe. I was going to schedule my emissions pre-test first thing in the morning but I've just noticed as of last night the original fan clutch seems to have nearly locked up and is spinning on full blast nearly all the time and putting too much constant load on the engine (or at least the water pump).

I've ordered a new one of those that will have to be replaced first. Then I'll get to the pre-test to have everything checked and cleared for the real test and get on with wrapping this up.

Love how my car always finds something new to throw at me

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

lol.... the SC is saying I deserve better , that 2jzgte you already have and is just laying around ! I won't stop reminding you till you put that in .

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

good work bud I was hoping you would get it done under 20 pages =)

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Hahaha! Well it sure has a funny way of making that a priority by force-diverting funds to the old engine setup If only the GTE weren't currently in a thousand pieces. The goal soon is to start cleaning the used GTE parts and getting them ready. Then the dismantled GTE head inspection since that needs a full rebuild.

And the conversion of the harness you sold me.


Hah! Thanks! I think I'll handily beat that figure

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

I'm over it. The CEL 71 came back again. 89 miles after the reset. I double-checked the used working VSV I have and it held pressure and responded to +12V at the correct terminals. It works fine. The EGR stalling test checked out the other day so I have no idea what else could be the problem here.

I have a brand new EGR VSV still in the bag and a brand new aftermarket EGR valve still in its box. Someone else can try those out.

I'm over it. I am dropping the car off and I am not diagnosing the code any longer.

I bought a brand new factory fan clutch today. I'm letting my mechanic repair that too.

I am utterly amazed and exhausted by this.

I could care less about a GTE swap at this point. I just want the car to pass smog at long last.

Other than the clutch fan needing replacement the car is ABSOLUTELY FINE. Nothing is wrong with how it drives and the EGR system seems to be doing its job. There is NO REASON for it to be having this many repeat CEL 71 codes.

Rant over. Holy hell am I angry right now...

I'm over trying to fix this CEL myself.

Edit: I went ahead and replaced the used/tested/pressure-holding/working EGR VSV with the brand new one I bought. Still taking the car in. Not sure if that will make any difference.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Aside... I think I found my answer on whether or not it's okay to use a brass freeze plug in an aluminum intake:

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/18-e...um-intake.html

Steel on aluminum appears to be where an issue with removal down the road can be hard later on. Posters in this thread recommend using anti-seize with steel plugs. I assume it couldn't hurt with a brass plug also.

Dropping the car off in the morning. Once the fan clutch is replaced I'll soon know what the hell is causing the Code 71 now.

Also... referring to this thread...

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...t-is-this.html

... I am not sure if I need to source a used "dashpot" filter but since the filter on mine cracked and just fell off the car I went in to order a new one from Toyota. It turns out (of course!) that Toyota doesn't sell the stupid little plastic cover with the filter inside it!

"DASHPOT S/A" (Toyota P/N 22202-46060) for the 5-speed 2JZ-GE's comes as an entire $75.00 assembly just to get the little filter encased in a cheap plastic cap.

I'm not even going to bother with that unless it comes up as a potential smog fail issue. Over a tiny external filter.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

they are on most older toyota's, grab the cap and filter at a junkyard, the caps are all the same size. glue that bad boy on maybe lol.

as for the EGR, it might be something to do with the temp sensor. sometimes its also possible to have a leak by on the EGR pipe where it goes into the head, I usually on a cold start start the car then run quickly and snake my hand back behind the intake and feel for any small exhaust pulses, don't do it hot or you will burn yourself really fast. if you geel one you have a leak and it will trip that EGR code as well. you are probably way tired of diagnosing it but I just have a feeling a shop will either help you out, but more likely they will do a bunch of stuff and also not find the problem, its just how it goes on these cars sometimes. hope it works out, if not stick a resistor in there cause its still functionally working just the computer isn't happy for some reason.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

dang .. sorry to hear you still have problem on the CEL 71 . I wonder what's causing it now.

Get it registered in your place in FL .. hahaha. No more tests , problem solved , lmaol.