1992 SC300 Check Engine Light Throwing Code 55 - Knock Sensors Tutorials? Write Ups?
11-05-16, 06:41 PM
#31
That's a great idea, I'll have to see if I can disconnect them. I could be wrong, but I swear there is only one wire for KS2 and the one next to it is a blank but I will check again.
I did ohm out the old KS and it showed nothing, so it is dead.Could both the wiring to the KS and the KS itself go bad at once? I did not get a reading from the KS2 port either. Strange
I did ohm out the old KS and it showed nothing, so it is dead.Could both the wiring to the KS and the KS itself go bad at once? I did not get a reading from the KS2 port either. Strange
11-08-16, 06:58 PM
#32
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Can someone tell me the color to the knock sensor wires? I am testing the supposed wires which are 49 and 50 I believe on the harness yet neither respond with a reading.
that said , I have no code for knock sensor 1 (code 52) I only have code 55. how could both lines be dead? maybe I'm not reading the right one?
the ones im looking at are solid black yellow stripe and solid grey yellow stripe .
that said , I have no code for knock sensor 1 (code 52) I only have code 55. how could both lines be dead? maybe I'm not reading the right one?
the ones im looking at are solid black yellow stripe and solid grey yellow stripe .
11-08-16, 09:21 PM
#33
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Update
Pulled the wire to the front knock sensor just to see what happens. Code 52 popped up even though I get no signal on the harness from the multimeter. So, KS1 works. I'm thinking the situation is a bad knock sensor or MAYBE wiring but I think its the sensor- even though I ordered an oem one. I will order another - ohm out the one I bought, and if its not good, send it back and put in another KS2 sensor.
Unreal. Wasted a lot of time and money on this.
Anyone know the exact part number for the KS? Links, numbers, anything that can help is appreciated. I purchased a Toyota one before, but I want to make sure its the right one.
The unit I purchased seems to be part number
Pulled the wire to the front knock sensor just to see what happens. Code 52 popped up even though I get no signal on the harness from the multimeter. So, KS1 works. I'm thinking the situation is a bad knock sensor or MAYBE wiring but I think its the sensor- even though I ordered an oem one. I will order another - ohm out the one I bought, and if its not good, send it back and put in another KS2 sensor.
Unreal. Wasted a lot of time and money on this.
Anyone know the exact part number for the KS? Links, numbers, anything that can help is appreciated. I purchased a Toyota one before, but I want to make sure its the right one.
The unit I purchased seems to be part number
8961522040
Which I believe is OEM DENSO. Not Matsu... does it really make a difference? Both are totally up there in cost and Denso is OEM. Let me know, if so, I'm going to be asking for a refund! Thank youLast edited by beenlookin; 11-08-16 at 11:00 PM. Reason: updated info on KS part number
11-10-16, 08:35 PM
#34
Anyone know the exact part number for the KS? Links, numbers, anything that can help is appreciated. I purchased a Toyota one before, but I want to make sure its the right one.
The unit I purchased seems to be part number
The unit I purchased seems to be part number
8961522040
Which I believe is OEM DENSO. Not Matsu... does it really make a difference? Both are totally up there in cost and Denso is OEM. Let me know, if so, I'm going to be asking for a refund! Thank you
11-13-16, 03:50 PM
#35
I have two knock sensors for a 1UZ motor. I bought them up when I found them, brand new old stock. Not using them. If you want them, PM me and provide return postage, free to a good home.
11-14-16, 08:53 AM
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12-11-16, 01:11 PM
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Update:
Finally had time to switch KS 1 (working) with KS 2 (new denso unit). Code still came back 55 meaning something other than the knock sensor and ecu is the issue. I did not run a new wire because it looks like PITA , but I'm wondering if anyone knows what it would take to undue the wires on each end, can i just clip them and run a new wire or does the one wire feed multiple items? I cant understand how the wire would be bad, it looks perfectly fine on both ends - no tears anywhere that is visible.
Any other suggestions on the culprit?
Lastly for anyone wondering - to get to KS1 you can do it from the top with a 27mm socket and a long enough extension.
For KS2 - Undue the splash guard underneath the car and drop the starter, after that you'll need a 27mm socket and extensions to get it out from underneath.
Finally had time to switch KS 1 (working) with KS 2 (new denso unit). Code still came back 55 meaning something other than the knock sensor and ecu is the issue. I did not run a new wire because it looks like PITA , but I'm wondering if anyone knows what it would take to undue the wires on each end, can i just clip them and run a new wire or does the one wire feed multiple items? I cant understand how the wire would be bad, it looks perfectly fine on both ends - no tears anywhere that is visible.
Any other suggestions on the culprit?
Lastly for anyone wondering - to get to KS1 you can do it from the top with a 27mm socket and a long enough extension.
For KS2 - Undue the splash guard underneath the car and drop the starter, after that you'll need a 27mm socket and extensions to get it out from underneath.
10-18-17, 08:58 PM
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Sorry for reviving a old thread. Did you ever resolve this, if so what did you find? I tested everything, opened the ecu found burnt capacitors and sent it out for a rebuild. Got it back today and same code 55 popping up.
10-23-17, 09:18 AM
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Just deal with the engine light - its not hurting the car.
11-09-17, 08:29 AM
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I believe I had a similar problem on my sc300. After getting my ECU rebuilt, I was getting CEL code 55. So I replaced the no. 2 rear knock sensor (oem part #8961522040), spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, and injectors and was still getting code 55. After putting a lot of time and money into the sc, I finally got the ECU replaced and I am no longer getting a CEL.