NA-T Questions?? Ask the Guru
01-17-17, 08:22 PM
#181
Driver School Candidate
noob to na-t
I have a 99 gs300. I have a cheap godspeed turbo kit and want to turbo my car,I have mechanical knowledge but for sure a noob at this turbo stuff. The kit is pretty much complete ,intercooler, T4 68trim turbo, piping, boost control turbo timer bov wastegate fuel pressure regulator oil pressure lines ect. I would like to achieve 350 WHP as my stock transmission can't take more than that. My question is what piggyback would work best. I know a standalone is the best bet but it's too expensive for me plus I would have to get a transmission that could handle all that HP so more money. I also live in chicago were it gets super hot and super cold , we also have to pass obd2 emissions test every 2 years. Should I just give up... I called a local shop and he said it's going to be a big headache and not to buy the aem fic that theyre horrible and recommend a neo. What all would I need to do or buy I'm all stock 2jzge. Many thanks .
01-17-17, 08:40 PM
#182
First note your car is vvti and has a returnless fuel system so you need to look into working with that specifically. It is not as simple as installing a fuel pressure regulator.
The system is probably the same as what the is300 guys do and there is alot of info out there, check the 1 IS section also.
I don't know the best way to set it up but I don;t think a neo will cut it, there will be lean spots and lots of confusion for the ecu.
the aem fic is a big headache and that is because making obd2 ecu work correctly or boost is a big headache, but you wont avoid that by running a neo, you will just be having problems you won't see and the vvti motor has weak rods, so that means the bad tune that results from using a simple safc like the neo is all that more likely to mess up your motor.
I would generally say don't listen to anyone that thinks you can run a turbo motor on a n/a toyota ecu with a safc... if they say to use a fuel pressure regulator with the safc so it runs perfect then run away fast!!
I would say do tons of research and no it isn't easy to run the n/a ecu with a good piggyback, its a headache but can be done. will you like it, hard to say but you should first find someone who can set it properly. If I had the choice between staying n/a and going turbo with a safc neo, I would stay n/a... and manual swap the car, itll be more fun and actually run reliably still.
The system is probably the same as what the is300 guys do and there is alot of info out there, check the 1 IS section also.
I don't know the best way to set it up but I don;t think a neo will cut it, there will be lean spots and lots of confusion for the ecu.
the aem fic is a big headache and that is because making obd2 ecu work correctly or boost is a big headache, but you wont avoid that by running a neo, you will just be having problems you won't see and the vvti motor has weak rods, so that means the bad tune that results from using a simple safc like the neo is all that more likely to mess up your motor.
I would generally say don't listen to anyone that thinks you can run a turbo motor on a n/a toyota ecu with a safc... if they say to use a fuel pressure regulator with the safc so it runs perfect then run away fast!!
I would say do tons of research and no it isn't easy to run the n/a ecu with a good piggyback, its a headache but can be done. will you like it, hard to say but you should first find someone who can set it properly. If I had the choice between staying n/a and going turbo with a safc neo, I would stay n/a... and manual swap the car, itll be more fun and actually run reliably still.
01-17-17, 09:47 PM
#183
Driver School Candidate
First note your car is vvti and has a returnless fuel system so you need to look into working with that specifically. It is not as simple as installing a fuel pressure regulator.
The system is probably the same as what the is300 guys do and there is alot of info out there, check the 1 IS section also.
I don't know the best way to set it up but I don;t think a neo will cut it, there will be lean spots and lots of confusion for the ecu.
the aem fic is a big headache and that is because making obd2 ecu work correctly or boost is a big headache, but you wont avoid that by running a neo, you will just be having problems you won't see and the vvti motor has weak rods, so that means the bad tune that results from using a simple safc like the neo is all that more likely to mess up your motor.
I would generally say don't listen to anyone that thinks you can run a turbo motor on a n/a toyota ecu with a safc... if they say to use a fuel pressure regulator with the safc so it runs perfect then run away fast!!
I would say do tons of research and no it isn't easy to run the n/a ecu with a good piggyback, its a headache but can be done. will you like it, hard to say but you should first find someone who can set it properly. If I had the choice between staying n/a and going turbo with a safc neo, I would stay n/a... and manual swap the car, itll be more fun and actually run reliably still.
The system is probably the same as what the is300 guys do and there is alot of info out there, check the 1 IS section also.
I don't know the best way to set it up but I don;t think a neo will cut it, there will be lean spots and lots of confusion for the ecu.
the aem fic is a big headache and that is because making obd2 ecu work correctly or boost is a big headache, but you wont avoid that by running a neo, you will just be having problems you won't see and the vvti motor has weak rods, so that means the bad tune that results from using a simple safc like the neo is all that more likely to mess up your motor.
I would generally say don't listen to anyone that thinks you can run a turbo motor on a n/a toyota ecu with a safc... if they say to use a fuel pressure regulator with the safc so it runs perfect then run away fast!!
I would say do tons of research and no it isn't easy to run the n/a ecu with a good piggyback, its a headache but can be done. will you like it, hard to say but you should first find someone who can set it properly. If I had the choice between staying n/a and going turbo with a safc neo, I would stay n/a... and manual swap the car, itll be more fun and actually run reliably still.
01-17-17, 11:14 PM
#184
Generally speaking, you want the standalone that your tuner is familiar with. Look for a reputable tuner in your area and ask them which standalone they prefer to tune and buy that one.
As far as the ECU goes, you'll be wiring the Standalone with the stock ECU still plugged in similar to a piggyback. You'll want to research information for the 98-01 GS300 or 01 IS300. The 98-00 SC300 uses the same pinout, but there isn't as much valuable information in this section. There used to be a plug and play option for the AEM v2 from suprastore, but it's no longer available. Pro-efi should still offer a plug and play harness if you don't want to do the wiring yourself.
As far as the ECU goes, you'll be wiring the Standalone with the stock ECU still plugged in similar to a piggyback. You'll want to research information for the 98-01 GS300 or 01 IS300. The 98-00 SC300 uses the same pinout, but there isn't as much valuable information in this section. There used to be a plug and play option for the AEM v2 from suprastore, but it's no longer available. Pro-efi should still offer a plug and play harness if you don't want to do the wiring yourself.
01-18-17, 12:42 PM
#185
in the mechanics defence he didn't know I had a fuel pressure regulator when he recommended the neo, should I not be using a fuel pressure reg? But thank you for the fast response. I kinda knew I would have to shell out the doe and get a standalone. My next question is does it matter the brand or price ? Would the standalone allow me to pass obd2 emissions ?What do most people do as far as upgrading their tranny ?
as far as transmission, it should handle what the vvti motor can so you can run the stock one, maybe get a trans cooler.
manual swap is always the best option for future power goals, there are several choices depending on budget and how much power you want to hold.
you can also run a gte auto transmission (probably from a vvti gte in your case) but I am not sure what ecu you would need to control it to be honest am not a big auto person.
Generally speaking, you want the standalone that your tuner is familiar with. Look for a reputable tuner in your area and ask them which standalone they prefer to tune and buy that one.
As far as the ECU goes, you'll be wiring the Standalone with the stock ECU still plugged in similar to a piggyback. You'll want to research information for the 98-01 GS300 or 01 IS300. The 98-00 SC300 uses the same pinout, but there isn't as much valuable information in this section. There used to be a plug and play option for the AEM v2 from suprastore, but it's no longer available. Pro-efi should still offer a plug and play harness if you don't want to do the wiring yourself.
As far as the ECU goes, you'll be wiring the Standalone with the stock ECU still plugged in similar to a piggyback. You'll want to research information for the 98-01 GS300 or 01 IS300. The 98-00 SC300 uses the same pinout, but there isn't as much valuable information in this section. There used to be a plug and play option for the AEM v2 from suprastore, but it's no longer available. Pro-efi should still offer a plug and play harness if you don't want to do the wiring yourself.
the places that do harnesses can set up a harness for dual ecu's, normally they do it for swaps but if you send them a n/a harness and ask for that service they can probably work something out with you, but could be costly.
This is part of the reason I stick to the pre 95 cars where emissions is required. If you can register in a non emissions county then you could run a vvti gte ecu pretty easily or install a standalone and call it a day.
01-19-17, 05:33 PM
#186
Good advice, for the least headache I would try and find someone who has done the dual setup and see what ecu they like to use. generally most of the standalones alot of tuners can tune, but they sort of shy away from installing the dual ecu setups or using the advanced piggybacks like the fic. If you can research and get it installed and wired up, most tuners should be able to just tune it for you, but setting it up is the more difficult part.
the places that do harnesses can set up a harness for dual ecu's, normally they do it for swaps but if you send them a n/a harness and ask for that service they can probably work something out with you, but could be costly.
This is part of the reason I stick to the pre 95 cars where emissions is required. If you can register in a non emissions county then you could run a vvti gte ecu pretty easily or install a standalone and call it a day.
the places that do harnesses can set up a harness for dual ecu's, normally they do it for swaps but if you send them a n/a harness and ask for that service they can probably work something out with you, but could be costly.
This is part of the reason I stick to the pre 95 cars where emissions is required. If you can register in a non emissions county then you could run a vvti gte ecu pretty easily or install a standalone and call it a day.
From what I can remember a jumper/patch harness is a couple hundred bucks and with their diagram you should be able to wire it in. Or go to the 2GS forum and look for writeups from "JeffTsai" and he has a lot of the info you would need. This would be a lot cheaper than paying someone else to make a new harness for you.
03-27-17, 12:20 PM
#187
Driver School Candidate
maf location bov recirculating?
Hi guru, I have a stock 99 gs300 about to install my ebay turbo t3 t4 kit (want to run about 8 or 9 psi). Where do I mount my maf(before turbo or before tb) should I get a ls400 maf/injectors ,I can use a open atmosphere bov? Also do I have to get a recirculating bov or will a open bov work(already have a open bov) i plan on getting a apexi neo after my turbo is installed and get a tune , just want a decent running car for now before tunned. Many thanks for your help...
03-27-17, 03:27 PM
#188
IMO you won't get a decent running car with a safc and the stock ecu. just isn't going to happen when you hit boost the ecu will freak out and do weird things shortly thereafter.
That being said people have done it and the car will "drive" but you will be stalling at times and leaving power behind all over the place.
You should look into running a turbo ecu or a piggyback that can take over fueling completely.
check out the tt ecu mod, if you need emissions you can run the usdm ecu and 550cc injectors with the stock ignition system (just go to new ignitor like in thread) and be much better off than what you are trying to do.
Now as for maf placement, you generally want it in front of the turbo and run a recirculated bov. this will give the ecu the best chance of running right and not stalling so much.
This is what I would recommend for the USDM or obd2 version of tt ecu mod if you are not running a piggyback for maf delete.
You can try putting the maf in front of the throttle body, and run an open bov in front of the maf, but this setup is blind to boost, so you will need the safc to dump in lots of fuel when this happens which will in time confuse the ecu and give weird timing values, you will be likely to have random detonation, but can work not terribly on lower boost levels (I didn't say work good)... run this at your own risk. You would be better off going back in technology and just slapping a rising rate fuel pressure regulator on instead but none of these are a good idea. really you should get a turbo ecu and if maf based it should go in front of the turbo and recirculate bov. Or get a standalone and get a tune.
That being said people have done it and the car will "drive" but you will be stalling at times and leaving power behind all over the place.
You should look into running a turbo ecu or a piggyback that can take over fueling completely.
check out the tt ecu mod, if you need emissions you can run the usdm ecu and 550cc injectors with the stock ignition system (just go to new ignitor like in thread) and be much better off than what you are trying to do.
Now as for maf placement, you generally want it in front of the turbo and run a recirculated bov. this will give the ecu the best chance of running right and not stalling so much.
This is what I would recommend for the USDM or obd2 version of tt ecu mod if you are not running a piggyback for maf delete.
You can try putting the maf in front of the throttle body, and run an open bov in front of the maf, but this setup is blind to boost, so you will need the safc to dump in lots of fuel when this happens which will in time confuse the ecu and give weird timing values, you will be likely to have random detonation, but can work not terribly on lower boost levels (I didn't say work good)... run this at your own risk. You would be better off going back in technology and just slapping a rising rate fuel pressure regulator on instead but none of these are a good idea. really you should get a turbo ecu and if maf based it should go in front of the turbo and recirculate bov. Or get a standalone and get a tune.
04-02-17, 06:56 PM
#189
IMO you won't get a decent running car with a safc and the stock ecu. just isn't going to happen when you hit boost the ecu will freak out and do weird things shortly thereafter.
That being said people have done it and the car will "drive" but you will be stalling at times and leaving power behind all over the place.
You should look into running a turbo ecu or a piggyback that can take over fueling completely.
check out the tt ecu mod, if you need emissions you can run the usdm ecu and 550cc injectors with the stock ignition system (just go to new ignitor like in thread) and be much better off than what you are trying to do.
Now as for maf placement, you generally want it in front of the turbo and run a recirculated bov. this will give the ecu the best chance of running right and not stalling so much.
This is what I would recommend for the USDM or obd2 version of tt ecu mod if you are not running a piggyback for maf delete.
You can try putting the maf in front of the throttle body, and run an open bov in front of the maf, but this setup is blind to boost, so you will need the safc to dump in lots of fuel when this happens which will in time confuse the ecu and give weird timing values, you will be likely to have random detonation, but can work not terribly on lower boost levels (I didn't say work good)... run this at your own risk. You would be better off going back in technology and just slapping a rising rate fuel pressure regulator on instead but none of these are a good idea. really you should get a turbo ecu and if maf based it should go in front of the turbo and recirculate bov. Or get a standalone and get a tune.
That being said people have done it and the car will "drive" but you will be stalling at times and leaving power behind all over the place.
You should look into running a turbo ecu or a piggyback that can take over fueling completely.
check out the tt ecu mod, if you need emissions you can run the usdm ecu and 550cc injectors with the stock ignition system (just go to new ignitor like in thread) and be much better off than what you are trying to do.
Now as for maf placement, you generally want it in front of the turbo and run a recirculated bov. this will give the ecu the best chance of running right and not stalling so much.
This is what I would recommend for the USDM or obd2 version of tt ecu mod if you are not running a piggyback for maf delete.
You can try putting the maf in front of the throttle body, and run an open bov in front of the maf, but this setup is blind to boost, so you will need the safc to dump in lots of fuel when this happens which will in time confuse the ecu and give weird timing values, you will be likely to have random detonation, but can work not terribly on lower boost levels (I didn't say work good)... run this at your own risk. You would be better off going back in technology and just slapping a rising rate fuel pressure regulator on instead but none of these are a good idea. really you should get a turbo ecu and if maf based it should go in front of the turbo and recirculate bov. Or get a standalone and get a tune.
04-04-17, 07:05 PM
#190
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Texas
Posts: 4
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New SC300 owner here, looking for advice
Soon I'll be the owner of a 94 SC300 with a 5-speed and I'm looking forward to learning from this group. I'll either leave the my car completely stock and restore it as a japanese classic, but I'm thinking seriously about a clean na-t setup and I'm looking for some advice on parts based on my goals.
I would like to build up the car as "stock-like" as possible, and basically what I would imagine Lexus would have done if it were building an SC-F back in 1994, or a SC300/Supra. I'm would like to keep the W58, upgrade the clutch and probably aiming for 400 whp at the most. I would be installing a limited slip diff of some kind, hopefully a toyota product would be the easiest. I installed an OEM limited slip on my IS300 and was really happy with it. This would be a real special car for me and I prefer not to have ebay or chinese stuff although I know some of it is probably pretty good. I just like the idea of something made here if possible. It sounds like the TT ECU is a good, relatively simple way to go.
Basically here is what I'm looking for. A good quality build for the following...
Stock GE head and compression,
Stock transmission
Upgraded clutch
Well built header options?
Looking for advice on good turbo options, not planning to build a monster, just want good, stock feeling, responsive, reliable power.
I will probably run water injection because I had great results on my FD, maybe not necessary at such low boost though.
Intercooler options that are a good size but easy to fit install?
TT ECU, what year and model of GTE ECU should I be looking for?
LSD options? What model of OEM diff should I look for? On the IS300 there was a different gear ratio that was better for acceleration.
Can I put all this together for much less than a Boost Logic kit? I like the idea of using mostly toyota parts. I'm not sure where to start for the header, turbo, intercooler, clutch, or differential.
Thanks very much for any advice.
Adam
I would like to build up the car as "stock-like" as possible, and basically what I would imagine Lexus would have done if it were building an SC-F back in 1994, or a SC300/Supra. I'm would like to keep the W58, upgrade the clutch and probably aiming for 400 whp at the most. I would be installing a limited slip diff of some kind, hopefully a toyota product would be the easiest. I installed an OEM limited slip on my IS300 and was really happy with it. This would be a real special car for me and I prefer not to have ebay or chinese stuff although I know some of it is probably pretty good. I just like the idea of something made here if possible. It sounds like the TT ECU is a good, relatively simple way to go.
Basically here is what I'm looking for. A good quality build for the following...
Stock GE head and compression,
Stock transmission
Upgraded clutch
Well built header options?
Looking for advice on good turbo options, not planning to build a monster, just want good, stock feeling, responsive, reliable power.
I will probably run water injection because I had great results on my FD, maybe not necessary at such low boost though.
Intercooler options that are a good size but easy to fit install?
TT ECU, what year and model of GTE ECU should I be looking for?
LSD options? What model of OEM diff should I look for? On the IS300 there was a different gear ratio that was better for acceleration.
Can I put all this together for much less than a Boost Logic kit? I like the idea of using mostly toyota parts. I'm not sure where to start for the header, turbo, intercooler, clutch, or differential.
Thanks very much for any advice.
Adam
04-06-17, 07:40 AM
#191
Driver School Candidate
When using TT ECU mod with 440cc, what's the max HP/torque you can get out of NA-T setup (granted you have an healthy motor to start with)?
Is megasquirt still a recommended next step for standalone if you don't want to break a bank?
Is megasquirt still a recommended next step for standalone if you don't want to break a bank?
05-11-17, 12:48 AM
#192
a little thanks!
Haha thanks for the kind words. I'm just a car guy who doesn't mind sharing what I do. Some people don't like to share because they want to have the "best" setup or no one else to copy theirs... I am not a fan of that train of thought and feel like I can share and still strive to have the best setup cause I am always innovating, I mean without a little competition none of us will have any drive to keep getting better you know.
I could have kept the details of the tt ecu mod to myself... but its just not something I would feel good about. I remember before that I felt like there were people out there that knew how to do the basic version of it, but they just refused to share it, I never got that whole bogarting of car mods. after seeing how many people have enjoyed it and put it to good use, and even helped take it to the next level after me I know 1000% I did the right thing by sharing it. I can safely say I never thought that thread would be so huge, but it just crossed 470k views and there always seems to be 7-10 people reading it at any given time according to the bar at the bottom, still blows my mind thinking about it.
I could have kept the details of the tt ecu mod to myself... but its just not something I would feel good about. I remember before that I felt like there were people out there that knew how to do the basic version of it, but they just refused to share it, I never got that whole bogarting of car mods. after seeing how many people have enjoyed it and put it to good use, and even helped take it to the next level after me I know 1000% I did the right thing by sharing it. I can safely say I never thought that thread would be so huge, but it just crossed 470k views and there always seems to be 7-10 people reading it at any given time according to the bar at the bottom, still blows my mind thinking about it.
Living in Cali, the mentality most people have is who has the biggest baddest motor? yada yada yada.. I care somewhat but, Im all about maintaining a decent amount of power Reliably. I have a couple buddies who have 1j and 2j gte swaps who just slapped it in and was done with it, but whats the challenge? Anywho, Im on page 4 on the questions thread and thought I'd say thanks on behalf of the many people that want to, or have done the nat setup. And its true that many people like to hide their knowledge to be the best, but hey secrets don't make friends lol. BTW this forum is super helpful
05-12-17, 08:03 AM
#193
Sup Ali,
As usual greatly appreciate you and Gerrb's advice on SupraForums and ClubLexus.
I am at a point where I am about to pull the trigger on a wiring harness for my SC300 project. I am looking at Tweaked wiring for an AEM Infinity setup, but had some questions about the coil and igniter type to use. So, I am going NA-T, with 7M-GTE CPS instead of a dizzy, IS300 igniter, and IS300 coils. Already have all of that, however, I prefer to have the six individual GTE coils and not the VVT-i coils. My question is, can I run a 7M-GTE CPS with a IS300 igniter and GTE (non VVTi) coils? If not, can I run a 7M-GTE CPS with GTE (non VVTi) igniter and GTE (non VVTi) coils?
Thanks Guru!
As usual greatly appreciate you and Gerrb's advice on SupraForums and ClubLexus.
I am at a point where I am about to pull the trigger on a wiring harness for my SC300 project. I am looking at Tweaked wiring for an AEM Infinity setup, but had some questions about the coil and igniter type to use. So, I am going NA-T, with 7M-GTE CPS instead of a dizzy, IS300 igniter, and IS300 coils. Already have all of that, however, I prefer to have the six individual GTE coils and not the VVT-i coils. My question is, can I run a 7M-GTE CPS with a IS300 igniter and GTE (non VVTi) coils? If not, can I run a 7M-GTE CPS with GTE (non VVTi) igniter and GTE (non VVTi) coils?
Thanks Guru!
06-06-17, 10:12 AM
#194
Driver School Candidate
hks fcon vpro
How well do piggy back systems work with the TT ecu mod? Im currently building a 93 gs300 for na-t. Staying with a semi mild build right now I'm only looking to get around 400ish but I do have future plans for more. I've been looking into the hks fcon vpro and so far it's my first choice. I know they used to only let hks dealers tune but now they include the programming software which is a huge plus. I will be keeping the auto trans (GTE with the GE valve body swap-line pressure cable) and rebuilding an auto trans to hold more power. JDM TT ecu by the way
Last edited by Briangs; 06-06-17 at 10:15 AM.
06-06-17, 03:27 PM
#195
I'm planning to run a low boost(5-7lbs) set up with MAF after the compressor, my question is my car is OBDII 97 SC300, it should be able to read a certain amount of positive pressure (MAF is hotwire) and adjust fuel correctly correct? Also, I'm thinking of a large A/R hot side so full spool will be near 5000rpm, when ECU goes open loop.
That being said, the correct way to set it up would be draw through, maf in front of the turbo... then it will read the total air and will give you the best shot at working.
I wouldn't go with that large of an A/R with a 5-7lb setup. Set the maf up right and recirculate the bov and it will work decent (not great) on the stock ecu even but the obd2 tt ecu would be better and get a piggyback to help dial it in closer.
Soon I'll be the owner of a 94 SC300 with a 5-speed and I'm looking forward to learning from this group. I'll either leave the my car completely stock and restore it as a japanese classic, but I'm thinking seriously about a clean na-t setup and I'm looking for some advice on parts based on my goals.
I would like to build up the car as "stock-like" as possible, and basically what I would imagine Lexus would have done if it were building an SC-F back in 1994, or a SC300/Supra. I'm would like to keep the W58, upgrade the clutch and probably aiming for 400 whp at the most. I would be installing a limited slip diff of some kind, hopefully a toyota product would be the easiest. I installed an OEM limited slip on my IS300 and was really happy with it. This would be a real special car for me and I prefer not to have ebay or chinese stuff although I know some of it is probably pretty good. I just like the idea of something made here if possible. It sounds like the TT ECU is a good, relatively simple way to go.
Basically here is what I'm looking for. A good quality build for the following...
Stock GE head and compression,
Stock transmission
Upgraded clutch
Well built header options?
Looking for advice on good turbo options, not planning to build a monster, just want good, stock feeling, responsive, reliable power.
I will probably run water injection because I had great results on my FD, maybe not necessary at such low boost though.
Intercooler options that are a good size but easy to fit install?
TT ECU, what year and model of GTE ECU should I be looking for?
LSD options? What model of OEM diff should I look for? On the IS300 there was a different gear ratio that was better for acceleration.
Can I put all this together for much less than a Boost Logic kit? I like the idea of using mostly toyota parts. I'm not sure where to start for the header, turbo, intercooler, clutch, or differential.
Thanks very much for any advice.
Adam
I would like to build up the car as "stock-like" as possible, and basically what I would imagine Lexus would have done if it were building an SC-F back in 1994, or a SC300/Supra. I'm would like to keep the W58, upgrade the clutch and probably aiming for 400 whp at the most. I would be installing a limited slip diff of some kind, hopefully a toyota product would be the easiest. I installed an OEM limited slip on my IS300 and was really happy with it. This would be a real special car for me and I prefer not to have ebay or chinese stuff although I know some of it is probably pretty good. I just like the idea of something made here if possible. It sounds like the TT ECU is a good, relatively simple way to go.
Basically here is what I'm looking for. A good quality build for the following...
Stock GE head and compression,
Stock transmission
Upgraded clutch
Well built header options?
Looking for advice on good turbo options, not planning to build a monster, just want good, stock feeling, responsive, reliable power.
I will probably run water injection because I had great results on my FD, maybe not necessary at such low boost though.
Intercooler options that are a good size but easy to fit install?
TT ECU, what year and model of GTE ECU should I be looking for?
LSD options? What model of OEM diff should I look for? On the IS300 there was a different gear ratio that was better for acceleration.
Can I put all this together for much less than a Boost Logic kit? I like the idea of using mostly toyota parts. I'm not sure where to start for the header, turbo, intercooler, clutch, or differential.
Thanks very much for any advice.
Adam
put a small turbo on there maybe 61mm range and it will be a really fun street machine and reliable even on stock compression to 14 psi of boost or so depending on how big a turbo you end up with.
you will need an upgraded clutch, the stock w58 5 speed will hold with babying it to about 400whp.
these cars can fit huge front mounts so just grab any front mount that you like and it should be good to go.
No need for water injection on these motors unless you are shooting for alot more boost on the stock compression on pump gas.
get a high flow fuel pump and drop it in, if you use a tt denso run a relay off the stock fuel ecu. walboro you can usually get away using just the stock fuel ecu.
LSD most people go for the supra TT auto LSD unit, as its the same size as the pumpkin in our cars and can be swapped into the existing SC pumpkin, or swap in the whole supra pumpkin they are the same size physically.
The 6 speed supra TT lsd will not fit into the SC pumpkin, it uses a larger bolt pattern and is physically larger... you can swap the whole pumpkin in but its alot more expensive and dropping a lsd unit in your existing one.
Also, instead of the auto tt lsd, you can also get an aftermarket kaaz unit (there are a few more options) and drop that into your pumpkin, just make sure you get the one for the auto tt supra.
You can use a generic turbo manifold, even the chineese stuff will hold up for a while, but get a quality turbo. if you can afford both then get a quality manifold also, and also don't skimp on the wastegate.
I never ran megasquirt, they are touchy but lots of people do. I would try and get a deal on an aem or other more popular standalone that are easier to setup and tune.
also you can run 550cc injectors on the gte ecu with a piggyback and get to 500 pretty easy, that is what I was running towards the end.
Ali, Ive been reading on a lot of the threads about na-t swaps and I just want to say Im becoming more and more confident on doing this build. I've read your right up and now the questions thread, and I just want to say I appreciate your words of wisdom and your sharing for knowledge! People have told me to "get a gte motor" and call it a day(not that its bad), but I want to actually learn and understand the motor that i'll be building. By reading your threads day by day its such a motivation to read everyone's situations and input.
Living in Cali, the mentality most people have is who has the biggest baddest motor? yada yada yada.. I care somewhat but, Im all about maintaining a decent amount of power Reliably. I have a couple buddies who have 1j and 2j gte swaps who just slapped it in and was done with it, but whats the challenge? Anywho, Im on page 4 on the questions thread and thought I'd say thanks on behalf of the many people that want to, or have done the nat setup. And its true that many people like to hide their knowledge to be the best, but hey secrets don't make friends lol. BTW this forum is super helpful
Living in Cali, the mentality most people have is who has the biggest baddest motor? yada yada yada.. I care somewhat but, Im all about maintaining a decent amount of power Reliably. I have a couple buddies who have 1j and 2j gte swaps who just slapped it in and was done with it, but whats the challenge? Anywho, Im on page 4 on the questions thread and thought I'd say thanks on behalf of the many people that want to, or have done the nat setup. And its true that many people like to hide their knowledge to be the best, but hey secrets don't make friends lol. BTW this forum is super helpful
Sup Ali,
As usual greatly appreciate you and Gerrb's advice on SupraForums and ClubLexus.
I am at a point where I am about to pull the trigger on a wiring harness for my SC300 project. I am looking at Tweaked wiring for an AEM Infinity setup, but had some questions about the coil and igniter type to use. So, I am going NA-T, with 7M-GTE CPS instead of a dizzy, IS300 igniter, and IS300 coils. Already have all of that, however, I prefer to have the six individual GTE coils and not the VVT-i coils. My question is, can I run a 7M-GTE CPS with a IS300 igniter and GTE (non VVTi) coils? If not, can I run a 7M-GTE CPS with GTE (non VVTi) igniter and GTE (non VVTi) coils?
Thanks Guru!
As usual greatly appreciate you and Gerrb's advice on SupraForums and ClubLexus.
I am at a point where I am about to pull the trigger on a wiring harness for my SC300 project. I am looking at Tweaked wiring for an AEM Infinity setup, but had some questions about the coil and igniter type to use. So, I am going NA-T, with 7M-GTE CPS instead of a dizzy, IS300 igniter, and IS300 coils. Already have all of that, however, I prefer to have the six individual GTE coils and not the VVT-i coils. My question is, can I run a 7M-GTE CPS with a IS300 igniter and GTE (non VVTi) coils? If not, can I run a 7M-GTE CPS with GTE (non VVTi) igniter and GTE (non VVTi) coils?
Thanks Guru!
Yeah if you want to run gte coils then you should use the gte ignitor. I have run that setup before. the vvti ignitor is only a 3 channel and with 6 coils you want the 6 channel gte ignitor for sequential ignition.
Its just a little bit more wiring but its the exact same principal. the wiring is covered in the tt ecu mod thread also for gte coils, but you are using the aem ecu... pins are all the same though.
Also alot of people are moving on to the newer generation coils that have the built in ignitors (like 2zz and others). You can run 6 of these with no seperate ignitor, the wiring is basically the same except each coil gets a ground wire and returns an IGF (in addition to the power wire and the coil trigger that the old gte coils had). If using the tt ecu tie all 6 IGF's together from the coils to go back to the ecu (for standalones IGF is not needed so you don't have to wire it up).
How well do piggy back systems work with the TT ecu mod? Im currently building a 93 gs300 for na-t. Staying with a semi mild build right now I'm only looking to get around 400ish but I do have future plans for more. I've been looking into the hks fcon vpro and so far it's my first choice. I know they used to only let hks dealers tune but now they include the programming software which is a huge plus. I will be keeping the auto trans (GTE with the GE valve body swap-line pressure cable) and rebuilding an auto trans to hold more power. JDM TT ecu by the way
IF you are using 440cc injectors you can get to 400 without a piggyback at all, but if you want some more overhead its not a bad idea to just go 550cc injector and install the piggyback, I ran mine with both setups and they both worked well.
The nice thing about the 440cc injectors and no piggyback, is it just works, there is no messing with anything except installing a boost cut controller. if you use a map ecu etc.. you can set the map up so it prevents boost cut then you dont need the boost cut controller.
// GURU OUT
Last edited by Ali SC3; 06-06-17 at 03:32 PM.