NA-T Questions?? Ask the Guru
02-23-19, 12:25 PM
#197
Xs-Power s366 fitment issues!
Hey Ali,
First of all, thanks for making this thread. Its a huge help to all of us here. You've already gone above and beyond answering my PMs and TT ECU questions...now getting into the nitty gritty and mock up sections of my build and guess what...the turbo doesn't fit with the stock tb and their manifold! I asked if it would before i bought it, which I was told it should...oh well.
If you're looking down on the manifold from the passenger side fender, the turbine housing hits the underside of the tb (where the coupler would go) and the turbo still needs to move 1/2" toward the firewall before the turbo flange bolt holes line up. Doesn't appear to have any cold side or center cartridge fitment issues once its clocked correctly. I contacted my local 2j guy (Alex W at Granite State Dyno), and he said some na-t guys have had an approx. 30° angle section added between the im and tb to jog the tb away from the hot side. This seems like a good compromise, but I was thinking it may be easier to modify the tb outlet by shortening it up with a band saw and welding a very stubby, tight radius cast elbow (or non cast if possible) to accomplish the same thing.
Any other suggestions or personal experience? And I am already invested in this setup, don't want to switch manifolds or turbos, etc.
BTW, when you were running the xs-power manifold, what turbo were you running? If I do need to change turbos, I want to use the biggest I can but no eBay garbage.
Thanks!
Matt
First of all, thanks for making this thread. Its a huge help to all of us here. You've already gone above and beyond answering my PMs and TT ECU questions...now getting into the nitty gritty and mock up sections of my build and guess what...the turbo doesn't fit with the stock tb and their manifold! I asked if it would before i bought it, which I was told it should...oh well.
If you're looking down on the manifold from the passenger side fender, the turbine housing hits the underside of the tb (where the coupler would go) and the turbo still needs to move 1/2" toward the firewall before the turbo flange bolt holes line up. Doesn't appear to have any cold side or center cartridge fitment issues once its clocked correctly. I contacted my local 2j guy (Alex W at Granite State Dyno), and he said some na-t guys have had an approx. 30° angle section added between the im and tb to jog the tb away from the hot side. This seems like a good compromise, but I was thinking it may be easier to modify the tb outlet by shortening it up with a band saw and welding a very stubby, tight radius cast elbow (or non cast if possible) to accomplish the same thing.
Any other suggestions or personal experience? And I am already invested in this setup, don't want to switch manifolds or turbos, etc.
BTW, when you were running the xs-power manifold, what turbo were you running? If I do need to change turbos, I want to use the biggest I can but no eBay garbage.
Thanks!
Matt
Last edited by Polarisman; 02-23-19 at 04:37 PM.
02-23-19, 04:42 PM
#198
Hey Ali,
First of all, thanks for making this thread. Its a huge help to all of us here. You've already gone above and beyond answering my PMs and TT ECU questions...now getting into the nitty gritty and mock up sections of my build and guess what...the turbo doesn't fit with the stock tb and their manifold! I asked if it would before i bought it, which I was told it should...oh well.
If you're looking down on the manifold from the passenger side fender, the turbine housing hits the underside of the tb (where the coupler would go) and the turbo still needs to move 1/2" toward the firewall before the turbo flange bolt holes line up. Doesn't appear to have any cold side or center cartridge fitment issues once its clocked correctly. I contacted my local 2j guy (Alex W at Granite State Dyno), and he said some na-t guys have had an approx. 30° angle section added between the im and tb to jog the tb away from the hot side. This seems like a good compromise, but I was thinking it may be easier to modify the tb outlet by shortening it up with a band saw and welding a very stubby, tight radius cast elbow (or non cast if possible) to accomplish the same thing.
Any other suggestions or personal experience? And I am already invested in this setup, don't want to switch manifolds or turbos, etc.
Thanks!
Matt
First of all, thanks for making this thread. Its a huge help to all of us here. You've already gone above and beyond answering my PMs and TT ECU questions...now getting into the nitty gritty and mock up sections of my build and guess what...the turbo doesn't fit with the stock tb and their manifold! I asked if it would before i bought it, which I was told it should...oh well.
If you're looking down on the manifold from the passenger side fender, the turbine housing hits the underside of the tb (where the coupler would go) and the turbo still needs to move 1/2" toward the firewall before the turbo flange bolt holes line up. Doesn't appear to have any cold side or center cartridge fitment issues once its clocked correctly. I contacted my local 2j guy (Alex W at Granite State Dyno), and he said some na-t guys have had an approx. 30° angle section added between the im and tb to jog the tb away from the hot side. This seems like a good compromise, but I was thinking it may be easier to modify the tb outlet by shortening it up with a band saw and welding a very stubby, tight radius cast elbow (or non cast if possible) to accomplish the same thing.
Any other suggestions or personal experience? And I am already invested in this setup, don't want to switch manifolds or turbos, etc.
Thanks!
Matt
. In my case I just ditched the ge overlap intake and went ffim. I still had troubles. I tried a 1/4 in spacer on turbo manifold to raise it and gave me hell and just decided to have the compressor housing welded with a 90* elbow to clear the runner. Your best bet would be shortening the TB like you stated with a band saw. Another thing, I also run a 4in mk4 supra xs power downpipe and mid pipe all the way back and the downpipe didn't fit, welder had to cut and modify to fit it. Just an fyi. They also come in 3 to 3.5in.
attached are 2 pics
02-23-19, 04:57 PM
#199
Hello sc fam. I'm close to starting up my na t setup. I have been messing with the 2jz for some time but I had a small question that I have been looking for an answer online but couldnt find it. My setup is a usdm 2jzgte obd1 6spd ecu with a map ecu 2. I have it all wired up per us spec wiring diagram. I'm also using tt coils from a supra with the supra igniter. Now this is my question. I'm going to be running the stock 10:1 compression, no tt gasket or head studs. Stock unopened long block on e85. I need to back down the timing due to stock compression but here is my question. If I have the tt coils installed already how do I go about clamping the cylinder 1 coil wire with the timing light to back down the timing? I know you rotate the distributor counter clockwise, but I'm no longer running cap. Do I clip the timing gun to the coil #1 wires or? Na t gods please chime in. Lol. Ali, omar?
pic attached for reference. Thanks, Oneal
Last edited by nuturf87; 02-23-19 at 05:02 PM.
02-24-19, 03:52 AM
#200
Thanks for the reply! I will end up having the cast elbow welded as you showed...when you say clock the compressor cover you just mean rotating it facing downward, or did you have to cut the turbo flange on the manifold and rotate it toward the strut? I haven't pulled the tb off yet to check other clearances but seems like the tb will be the main issue. I assumed going from the .91ar to .88 wouldn't have enough change not to mention the .88 isn't twin scroll like the manifold is. Would likely result in a slower spooling turbo, no?
Looks like I have some more messing around to do...But thanks for giving me hope! Did you source the elbow from cxracing or somewhere else?
Looks like I have some more messing around to do...But thanks for giving me hope! Did you source the elbow from cxracing or somewhere else?
02-24-19, 06:50 AM
#201
Another question...any guys have any experience with the BW s200sx-e turbo? The biggest one in that line is 57mm. It still has a t4 footprint, but I have to imagine the turbine wheel being 70mm vs 80mm that I have now would result in a physically shorter turbine housing, no? On paper, still 650hp capable, plenty of room above my 500hp goal, sounds similar because of the anti surge housing, similarly priced...anyone interested in buying a new-with-dust s366 please contact me.
02-25-19, 07:15 PM
#202
Polaris, the s366 is a large turbo so it will be hard to fit with the stock intake setup.
Maybe with the smallest hot side they offer, but really front facing would be the way to go with that turbo.
You can do something custom with the throttle body like the ls400 one I made or shorten the stock one or bends in the piping.
I would say a smaller turbo or just go ffim makes more sense and then it makes things easier.
I am not positive what turbo's will fit under the stock intake, but I think I read about a smaller hotside on one build.
Nuturf, if you are running e85 you shouldn't have to pull back the timing, it should work out pretty well as is.
to set the timing you will need one of those coil plug wire adapter things specifically used for a timing light.
It won't work off of the signal wires, it has to be a plug wire.
I think you can also use the n/a coil with the #1 plug wire attached in a pinch for cylinder number 1. just unplug the tt coil and use the n/a coil for setting the timing.
Most of the na-t crowd has one laying around.
Maybe with the smallest hot side they offer, but really front facing would be the way to go with that turbo.
You can do something custom with the throttle body like the ls400 one I made or shorten the stock one or bends in the piping.
I would say a smaller turbo or just go ffim makes more sense and then it makes things easier.
I am not positive what turbo's will fit under the stock intake, but I think I read about a smaller hotside on one build.
Nuturf, if you are running e85 you shouldn't have to pull back the timing, it should work out pretty well as is.
to set the timing you will need one of those coil plug wire adapter things specifically used for a timing light.
It won't work off of the signal wires, it has to be a plug wire.
I think you can also use the n/a coil with the #1 plug wire attached in a pinch for cylinder number 1. just unplug the tt coil and use the n/a coil for setting the timing.
Most of the na-t crowd has one laying around.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-25-19 at 07:22 PM.
02-26-19, 08:27 AM
#203
Vvti turbo
hey brother. I know you said your not an Auto trans guy. But figure I would ask before starting a new thread, and maybe gerrb, moosejaw, turbo819, 93twinturbo, inlyneturbo, wing zero, jimmy mac, Conner, etc might be able to chime in. Anyone with a gte vvti or ge vvti turbo build.
I have been reading up and searching this forum, supra forums, club nat when it worked, myis, Lextreme, and build threads forever but some threads don't post certain things or they are scattered and it's hard to find. And just recently changed my setup (98 sc300 gte vvti stock twins on aristo ecu, sold) and want to run built auto now, with GE ecu and some kind of ems lol not sure yet (was going to contact 93twinturbo for tuning). Here is my new setup, not running yet.
99 sc300
GTE vvti block
Aristo TT trans
(using only the refreshed block for now, gte vvti head is getting built and put away for future. So this is a na-t question lol)
GE vvti wiring harness
GE vvti head
GE vvti ecu to control trans and other functions, easier to return to stock for Cali smog testing, patch harness and some kind of EMS to run fuel and timing (aem v2 30-650?? Would like to do piggy back if I can get away with it until I have the time to bring to tuner to do it right (350 whp is fine till then). I can always re use the piggy back for a pre 97 sc300 later)
might run the same setup as 93twinturbo on his thread which was treadstone is300 manifold and a precision turbo 6266 for now, since it was documented and tried.
i can not find for sure answers. Just what fits, but not a complete recipe.
I learned from 93twinturbo's build page that I can use the Valve body from the factory GE VVTI auto trans and swap it into the TT Aristo trans so the factory GE Vvti harness plugs in and the GE ecu controls the Aristo TT trans. Has anyone else tried this?
The aristo TT trans I have read in another thread some where uses the same yoke or coupling at the end of the trans as a sc400 (3 bolt??) and the front half of the sc400 driveshaft bolts to that? Of course the aristo front half works. Haven't seen any soarer front and rear auto driveshafts that are not cut from the motors being imported in. Don't know if those are direct bolt in. But using a oem ge vvti non lsd dif (going to get a drop in or swap to a auto TT lsd later) what rear half of the driveshaft will work? Would it be sc400 front half and sc300 rear or n/a supra rear? Do they even fit into each other? I know it is easier running a full sc400 driveshaft with swapped coupler or yoke at the diff or run a TT auto or sc400 diff. Or am I wrong? I am just trying to use what I have until I can find the actual parts I am looking for. (I have Aristo TT trans and oem ge vvti diff)
Has ANYONE successfully used the GE vvti ecu + a piggy back, or EMS (not fully just intercepting the fuel and timing) to control fuel and timing safely??? Yes I will do an AEM V2, infinity 6 or something later, but just want something now to drive around at under 350whp using GE vvti ecu. Then when I have the time I will install an EMS using a patch harness and find time to get to a tuner. Using patch harness so I can go back to stock in a weekend to pass smog. I have seen conners thread where he used an apexi neo for a piggyback on his ge vvti turbo, but no updates in reliability. I have read through wing zeros 56 pages on his IS300 gte vvti build where he used the ge vvti harness and ge vvti ecu plus an emanage ultimate to run the gte vvti motor with the twins running TTC. Then he went to running the oem gte vvti ecu to control the gte vvti motor, then somewhere near the end of the thread he said he is going back to the ge vvti ecu to control the gte vvti motor but doesn't specify why or what piggy back he will be using.
Seems like the ge vvti ecu does not respond well to piggy backs? Sorry for long thread LOL
I have been reading up and searching this forum, supra forums, club nat when it worked, myis, Lextreme, and build threads forever but some threads don't post certain things or they are scattered and it's hard to find. And just recently changed my setup (98 sc300 gte vvti stock twins on aristo ecu, sold) and want to run built auto now, with GE ecu and some kind of ems lol not sure yet (was going to contact 93twinturbo for tuning). Here is my new setup, not running yet.
99 sc300
GTE vvti block
Aristo TT trans
(using only the refreshed block for now, gte vvti head is getting built and put away for future. So this is a na-t question lol)
GE vvti wiring harness
GE vvti head
GE vvti ecu to control trans and other functions, easier to return to stock for Cali smog testing, patch harness and some kind of EMS to run fuel and timing (aem v2 30-650?? Would like to do piggy back if I can get away with it until I have the time to bring to tuner to do it right (350 whp is fine till then). I can always re use the piggy back for a pre 97 sc300 later)
might run the same setup as 93twinturbo on his thread which was treadstone is300 manifold and a precision turbo 6266 for now, since it was documented and tried.
i can not find for sure answers. Just what fits, but not a complete recipe.
I learned from 93twinturbo's build page that I can use the Valve body from the factory GE VVTI auto trans and swap it into the TT Aristo trans so the factory GE Vvti harness plugs in and the GE ecu controls the Aristo TT trans. Has anyone else tried this?
The aristo TT trans I have read in another thread some where uses the same yoke or coupling at the end of the trans as a sc400 (3 bolt??) and the front half of the sc400 driveshaft bolts to that? Of course the aristo front half works. Haven't seen any soarer front and rear auto driveshafts that are not cut from the motors being imported in. Don't know if those are direct bolt in. But using a oem ge vvti non lsd dif (going to get a drop in or swap to a auto TT lsd later) what rear half of the driveshaft will work? Would it be sc400 front half and sc300 rear or n/a supra rear? Do they even fit into each other? I know it is easier running a full sc400 driveshaft with swapped coupler or yoke at the diff or run a TT auto or sc400 diff. Or am I wrong? I am just trying to use what I have until I can find the actual parts I am looking for. (I have Aristo TT trans and oem ge vvti diff)
Has ANYONE successfully used the GE vvti ecu + a piggy back, or EMS (not fully just intercepting the fuel and timing) to control fuel and timing safely??? Yes I will do an AEM V2, infinity 6 or something later, but just want something now to drive around at under 350whp using GE vvti ecu. Then when I have the time I will install an EMS using a patch harness and find time to get to a tuner. Using patch harness so I can go back to stock in a weekend to pass smog. I have seen conners thread where he used an apexi neo for a piggyback on his ge vvti turbo, but no updates in reliability. I have read through wing zeros 56 pages on his IS300 gte vvti build where he used the ge vvti harness and ge vvti ecu plus an emanage ultimate to run the gte vvti motor with the twins running TTC. Then he went to running the oem gte vvti ecu to control the gte vvti motor, then somewhere near the end of the thread he said he is going back to the ge vvti ecu to control the gte vvti motor but doesn't specify why or what piggy back he will be using.
Seems like the ge vvti ecu does not respond well to piggy backs? Sorry for long thread LOL
02-26-19, 09:10 AM
#204
I wouldn't ever really try that myself personally as I am not a fan of the dual ecu or ge ecu setups, but if you have to do it for emissions then I guess that is worth looking into.
It may not be that easy to pass smog with just the ge vvti ecu, as you may get misfires or lean codes with a turbo on there.
Generally I have seen people run low boost on the ge vvti ecu without too much fuss, cause it uses the maf it will see the extra air when placed in front of the turbo and recirculate the bov.
Some seem to have more issues with codes than others, and the piggyback could help "tune" some of these spots out but likely they are making more across the board adjustments for larger injectors on the piggyback.
I would say its doable but it might not be fun, just try it with the ge ecu and see what happens.
its not hard to go to a gte ecu except for the injector change for the rest of the time, or if you have a piggyback you can have different adjustments for each ecu.
Are the plugs even that different on the aristo vvti transmission vs the sc300 vvti transmission? I am not an auto guy as you know so I am not sure but I have read about valvebodies being interchangeable on alot of these transmissions.
Really you are trying to hit alot of moving targets between the transmission and the ecu.. what if you swap all the valvebodies and you can't get the ecu to work?
I would try and get the ge ecu working and leave the stock transmission in there while you see if you can get it to run well, it will hold 350 fine for a while and you will know if you can even get a readiness check with the turbo on.
Either that or swap the tt auto and run it with the ge ecu and see what happens, they are both 4 speed autos and very similar, it might just work well enough for emissions purposes and then you can run the gte ecu the rest of the time.
The emissions place does not care if torque convertors are locking or not in cruise, if you have 1st - 4th gears then you will be fine for emissions.
both of those transmissions are the kind that are fully electronic controlled, so my guess is that you might have to rewire a plug or 2, but the wires should mostly match up.
I probably wouldn't mess with swapping valvebodies, I have a feeling once you play with it like the other people you mentioned, you might not want to run the ge ecu all the time.. then you are stuck with a hybrid trans that only fully works with the stock ecu.
It may not be that easy to pass smog with just the ge vvti ecu, as you may get misfires or lean codes with a turbo on there.
Generally I have seen people run low boost on the ge vvti ecu without too much fuss, cause it uses the maf it will see the extra air when placed in front of the turbo and recirculate the bov.
Some seem to have more issues with codes than others, and the piggyback could help "tune" some of these spots out but likely they are making more across the board adjustments for larger injectors on the piggyback.
I would say its doable but it might not be fun, just try it with the ge ecu and see what happens.
its not hard to go to a gte ecu except for the injector change for the rest of the time, or if you have a piggyback you can have different adjustments for each ecu.
Are the plugs even that different on the aristo vvti transmission vs the sc300 vvti transmission? I am not an auto guy as you know so I am not sure but I have read about valvebodies being interchangeable on alot of these transmissions.
Really you are trying to hit alot of moving targets between the transmission and the ecu.. what if you swap all the valvebodies and you can't get the ecu to work?
I would try and get the ge ecu working and leave the stock transmission in there while you see if you can get it to run well, it will hold 350 fine for a while and you will know if you can even get a readiness check with the turbo on.
Either that or swap the tt auto and run it with the ge ecu and see what happens, they are both 4 speed autos and very similar, it might just work well enough for emissions purposes and then you can run the gte ecu the rest of the time.
The emissions place does not care if torque convertors are locking or not in cruise, if you have 1st - 4th gears then you will be fine for emissions.
both of those transmissions are the kind that are fully electronic controlled, so my guess is that you might have to rewire a plug or 2, but the wires should mostly match up.
I probably wouldn't mess with swapping valvebodies, I have a feeling once you play with it like the other people you mentioned, you might not want to run the ge ecu all the time.. then you are stuck with a hybrid trans that only fully works with the stock ecu.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-26-19 at 09:14 AM.
02-26-19, 12:16 PM
#205
I only wanted to do the ge vvti ecu with piggy back or full intercept mode as you said in an earlier post, to get the car running until I can find a tuner in my area that can tune an stand alone with auto.
When I do emissions, I was just going to unplug the patch harness, plug in the ge ecu and take off the whole turbo kit just to run it stock, pass, then install it again for another 2 years. We have to smog every 2 years in Cali. Cali is wack. I have had to do this with most of my turbo vehicles over the last 18 years, except my last one was a gte vvti so it was more difficult.
So what EMS do you recommend to use for a ge vvti turbo, gte bottom end, and aristo tt trans? THAT would also allow me to keep everything in the car, ac, cruise, no cel, like stock. I know it is easier for the pre 97's. But I'm stuck on the 98+ SC's.
I was only going to do piggy back off the ge ecu to drive around until I can find a tuner, or book a tuner in my area. It doesn't even have to be 350whp, just driveable with no cels. Then put in the EMS when I find someone good, unless I can find someone to send me a base map for my setup and tt auto.
I will have to check the connections on the aristo auto and the ge vvti auto, I have not gotten there yet, I was just gathering info and reading people's builds first.
I would love to do a manual swap, my daily is a manual but I'm sure i have to upgrade the pp and clutch when i want to go more power, and i won't be able to push the clutch in if it is too heavy (Got injured in the Army Infantry, many surgeries, so my legs are week)
thank you for the help man!! Any other suggestions or easier routes, let me know, I was just trying to use what I have before I spend more money.
When I do emissions, I was just going to unplug the patch harness, plug in the ge ecu and take off the whole turbo kit just to run it stock, pass, then install it again for another 2 years. We have to smog every 2 years in Cali. Cali is wack. I have had to do this with most of my turbo vehicles over the last 18 years, except my last one was a gte vvti so it was more difficult.
So what EMS do you recommend to use for a ge vvti turbo, gte bottom end, and aristo tt trans? THAT would also allow me to keep everything in the car, ac, cruise, no cel, like stock. I know it is easier for the pre 97's. But I'm stuck on the 98+ SC's.
I was only going to do piggy back off the ge ecu to drive around until I can find a tuner, or book a tuner in my area. It doesn't even have to be 350whp, just driveable with no cels. Then put in the EMS when I find someone good, unless I can find someone to send me a base map for my setup and tt auto.
I will have to check the connections on the aristo auto and the ge vvti auto, I have not gotten there yet, I was just gathering info and reading people's builds first.
I would love to do a manual swap, my daily is a manual but I'm sure i have to upgrade the pp and clutch when i want to go more power, and i won't be able to push the clutch in if it is too heavy (Got injured in the Army Infantry, many surgeries, so my legs are week)
thank you for the help man!! Any other suggestions or easier routes, let me know, I was just trying to use what I have before I spend more money.
02-26-19, 02:16 PM
#206
If you are returning it to stock then just use the 2JZ-GE vvti ecu with the stock injectors and GE maf.
I would be surprised if its more than just a connector change between 2jzge vvti and 2jzgte vvti auto transmissions, so just look it up and change the harness for the transmission you are going to use all the time.
Now the non-vvti ge automatic is a whole different animal, but between ge and gte vvti auto transmissions, I think they are very similar if not the same for most of the plugs.
I am pretty sure Gerrb has this covered somewhere in his wiring thread with regards to vvti sc300 harnesses being adapted for gte swaps, which transmission wise is going to be more or less the same thing.
When running the turbo just plug in the 2JZ-GTE vvti ecu, throw the larger injectors on and plug in the GTE maf. there are maybe a few wire differences that would take a few minutes to change over.
Or as you said you could get a vvti patch harness (about $200 online) and wire up the additional map sensor for the gte ecu and the few wire changes to that, but you don't even really need that unless you want to make it ultra fast and simple.
Using the Gte ecu would retain all the factory stuff and have it start and run as close to stock as possible, with 550cc injectors and a simple safc you can support 500hp on this setup and have good driveability right out of the box, and is what I am doing on my vvti setup.
Make sure to get a gte vvti ecu without the immobilizer if you go down this route to make it simple.
You could also have a patch harness from the vvti to a Standalone, Gerrb does this often on his setups when running standalones because he likes to start and test the car on a stock GE or GTE ecu.. then switch later.
I rather not recommend specific standalones, everyone likes different stuff but something that can control the automatic transmission will narrow down the field.
I would also stress that if you want to go this route talk to your local tuner or shop that will actually be doing the tuning also, and see what they like since how your car runs will literally be in their hands, and find out what they charge.
With any standalone you will be in for at least a few tuning sessions = $$, upfront $$ for the jumper harness (they generally wont plug in), and it will not start or run like a stock car until you invest time and money into refining the tune.
The plus with a standalone is you will be able to set the car up more how you want it vs following the GTE recipe, like if you want 1000cc injectors and a high hp goal with failsafes etc..
but if you are just shooting for a simple na-t @ 500hp or less the stock gte ecu can do all of what you want and it literally plugs in, doesn't cost much, and will run pretty good without "tuning".
You can try and make the GE ecu happy with a turbo, by using a piggyback (safc, emanage etc..) or intercept to just use the GE ecu (emanage with extra harness or aem fi-c)
The intercept is basically like running the stock ecu and a standalone ecu which will also needs tuning like above.
I have read about different setups on the IS forums and some have had success with that but I think it is way too complicated.
The only reason to even attempt this is to normally have the stock obd2 ecu working and tuned for the turbo.. but if you are removing the turbo there is no point to tricking the ge ecu, you just swap it for the gte ecu.
If you are just talking about getting it across town to the tuner, the ge vvti ecu will generally run and drive with a turbo as long as you place the maf in front of the turbo (it works alot better than trying it on non-vvti).
It wont be amazing, and you will be limited in boost before you run lean with 330cc inejctors, but it will run fine generally speaking and even boost alright.
Hope that makes a little more sense. With the info you gave me, I would:
Run non-turbo with the GE ecu / stock 330cc injectors / GE maf.
Run Turbo with (1) the GTE ecu, 440cc injectors (or 550+safc), GTE maf OR (2) standalone, whatever injectors, map sensor.
I would be surprised if its more than just a connector change between 2jzge vvti and 2jzgte vvti auto transmissions, so just look it up and change the harness for the transmission you are going to use all the time.
Now the non-vvti ge automatic is a whole different animal, but between ge and gte vvti auto transmissions, I think they are very similar if not the same for most of the plugs.
I am pretty sure Gerrb has this covered somewhere in his wiring thread with regards to vvti sc300 harnesses being adapted for gte swaps, which transmission wise is going to be more or less the same thing.
When running the turbo just plug in the 2JZ-GTE vvti ecu, throw the larger injectors on and plug in the GTE maf. there are maybe a few wire differences that would take a few minutes to change over.
Or as you said you could get a vvti patch harness (about $200 online) and wire up the additional map sensor for the gte ecu and the few wire changes to that, but you don't even really need that unless you want to make it ultra fast and simple.
Using the Gte ecu would retain all the factory stuff and have it start and run as close to stock as possible, with 550cc injectors and a simple safc you can support 500hp on this setup and have good driveability right out of the box, and is what I am doing on my vvti setup.
Make sure to get a gte vvti ecu without the immobilizer if you go down this route to make it simple.
You could also have a patch harness from the vvti to a Standalone, Gerrb does this often on his setups when running standalones because he likes to start and test the car on a stock GE or GTE ecu.. then switch later.
I rather not recommend specific standalones, everyone likes different stuff but something that can control the automatic transmission will narrow down the field.
I would also stress that if you want to go this route talk to your local tuner or shop that will actually be doing the tuning also, and see what they like since how your car runs will literally be in their hands, and find out what they charge.
With any standalone you will be in for at least a few tuning sessions = $$, upfront $$ for the jumper harness (they generally wont plug in), and it will not start or run like a stock car until you invest time and money into refining the tune.
The plus with a standalone is you will be able to set the car up more how you want it vs following the GTE recipe, like if you want 1000cc injectors and a high hp goal with failsafes etc..
but if you are just shooting for a simple na-t @ 500hp or less the stock gte ecu can do all of what you want and it literally plugs in, doesn't cost much, and will run pretty good without "tuning".
You can try and make the GE ecu happy with a turbo, by using a piggyback (safc, emanage etc..) or intercept to just use the GE ecu (emanage with extra harness or aem fi-c)
The intercept is basically like running the stock ecu and a standalone ecu which will also needs tuning like above.
I have read about different setups on the IS forums and some have had success with that but I think it is way too complicated.
The only reason to even attempt this is to normally have the stock obd2 ecu working and tuned for the turbo.. but if you are removing the turbo there is no point to tricking the ge ecu, you just swap it for the gte ecu.
If you are just talking about getting it across town to the tuner, the ge vvti ecu will generally run and drive with a turbo as long as you place the maf in front of the turbo (it works alot better than trying it on non-vvti).
It wont be amazing, and you will be limited in boost before you run lean with 330cc inejctors, but it will run fine generally speaking and even boost alright.
Hope that makes a little more sense. With the info you gave me, I would:
Run non-turbo with the GE ecu / stock 330cc injectors / GE maf.
Run Turbo with (1) the GTE ecu, 440cc injectors (or 550+safc), GTE maf OR (2) standalone, whatever injectors, map sensor.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 02-26-19 at 02:26 PM.
02-26-19, 05:14 PM
#207
Polaris, the s366 is a large turbo so it will be hard to fit with the stock intake setup.
Maybe with the smallest hot side they offer, but really front facing would be the way to go with that turbo.
You can do something custom with the throttle body like the ls400 one I made or shorten the stock one or bends in the piping.
I would say a smaller turbo or just go ffim makes more sense and then it makes things easier.
I am not positive what turbo's will fit under the stock intake, but I think I read about a smaller hotside on one build.
Maybe with the smallest hot side they offer, but really front facing would be the way to go with that turbo.
You can do something custom with the throttle body like the ls400 one I made or shorten the stock one or bends in the piping.
I would say a smaller turbo or just go ffim makes more sense and then it makes things easier.
I am not positive what turbo's will fit under the stock intake, but I think I read about a smaller hotside on one build.
I heard from my local tuner that the s257sxe would be a good match for a sub 500whp 2j build. Thinks 12psi on stock compression would make 400 or more, quick spool and solid torque even with the smallest ar turbine housing, even despite the 2" cold side outlet. I guess I just assumed t4 footprint turbine housings were all roughly the same size but it stands to reason this would be smaller since the turbine wheel is 10mm smaller and the ar is lower, both contributing to making it smaller. Definitely need to sell this beautiful basketball sized one first though!
02-27-19, 02:25 AM
#208
Thank you Ali! You are right I think I am just going to use the GTE vvti ecu, as it has the turbo fuel maps, and is well withing my power goals. I only saw the ge vvti ecu as an option because I have read people running that with a piggy or stand alone, but there still isn't too much updates on those guys threads on reliability and drivability. Then in other random threads I read people have problems with the ge vvti ecu going into limp mode with piggy's and what not. I just didnt want to lose the everyday functions of the sc like power everything, a/c, etc. And my main thing is check engine light. I hate seeing that on. Just hoping if I rewire to use the aristo ecu, I can still have my cake and eat it too (all functions of the car).
As for transmission, I will have to look more into it, or maybe gerrb or someone can chime in with experience, but you may very well be correct about the ge vvti and aristo tt trans being very similar in connections. I thank you again for helping me out. I know my 2 posts were all over the place, I was writing it on the go and should of just waited til I got home, on a laptop instead of jumbling all my ideas together. Wasn't really well thought out now that I re read them lol.
As for transmission, I will have to look more into it, or maybe gerrb or someone can chime in with experience, but you may very well be correct about the ge vvti and aristo tt trans being very similar in connections. I thank you again for helping me out. I know my 2 posts were all over the place, I was writing it on the go and should of just waited til I got home, on a laptop instead of jumbling all my ideas together. Wasn't really well thought out now that I re read them lol.
02-27-19, 04:00 AM
#209
^^^ You will have to replace the SC300 Transmission Solenoid and Park Neutral Switch Connectors if you are using the SC300 vvti engine wiring harness and want to use the stock Aristo VVTi Auto Transmission .
Check around these pages of my build thread : https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...-toys-288.html to have a better idea
Not unless you will swap the valve bodies of each transmissions .
Check around these pages of my build thread : https://www.clublexus.com/forums/bui...-toys-288.html to have a better idea
Not unless you will swap the valve bodies of each transmissions .
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4rcedfed (02-28-19)
02-27-19, 06:50 PM
#210
Thanks for the reply! I will end up having the cast elbow welded as you showed...when you say clock the compressor cover you just mean rotating it facing downward, or did you have to cut the turbo flange on the manifold and rotate it toward the strut? I haven't pulled the tb off yet to check other clearances but seems like the tb will be the main issue. I assumed going from the .91ar to .88 wouldn't have enough change not to mention the .88 isn't twin scroll like the manifold is. Would likely result in a slower spooling turbo, no?
Looks like I have some more messing around to do...But thanks for giving me hope! Did you source the elbow from cxracing or somewhere else?
Looks like I have some more messing around to do...But thanks for giving me hope! Did you source the elbow from cxracing or somewhere else?