nuturf87

Quick question for na t guys running ev14 injectors with 11mm adapter hats. Has anybody experienced fuel stream out the bottom of hats while installed seam to have a poor sealing or needs tighter top injector o rings ??? Also noticed that if you tighten down the 3 bolts that hold the fuel rail in place real tight the adapter hats tend to lean unevenly causing fuel leak thru all 6 hats. What seems to be causing the issue of the fuel rail leaning is the height of those factory fuel rail bolt spacers(round and black between lower intake and fuel rail mount bolt.) If I find some sort of spacer that has a taller height and longer bolts i think that would keep fuel rail from leaning downward as i tighten bolts. Stock fpr and rail. Any input would be appreciated. Just need to sort this issue out and wire in WB 02 and fire her up. Thanks in advanced

Oneal

Polarisman

I spent some time today on the SC...got the front bumper removed, fmic installed, and the hot side piping mocked up. I started on the cold side, but unless I'm missing something, I have to cut a big *** hole in the tray under the stock air box area, correct? Anyone have any reference points for the CX racing/xs-power fmic kit (stock tb location). Also got my egr delete done...what resistor do you need for the ecu to think all is well? How/where do I hook vacuum up to the acis butterfly now that has been removed?

My bro in law is letting me borrow his holset h1c for mock up so I can keep making progress on charge piping and stuff while I wait for my s366 to sell.

nuturf87

Cx racing most of the time guess pretty well on some kits pipe route location, and some kits of piping dont fit well. I guess it's a hit or miss. Perfect example. I run a 4 inch supra xs power stainless downpipe and midpipe. Some people have used them on sc na t and fit well. In my case it had to get pie cut right off the bat on the downpipe part that curves down off the turbo. It fit when mocking up, but due to compressor housing 90 degree angle and weld stole clearance space off the back. Therefore not fitting when the turbo had its resting place. Yes you would have to open a hole underneath where the air intake box was at. I forgot exactly the resistor ohm needed for egr connector. I know the one I did for the Maf delete connector on my harness was a 2200ohm resistor since I am using map ecu 2 for fuel control. I still wired ait to stock tt ecu for iat compensation. Dont forget to wrap electrical tape around that heater connector when you do the resistor. The resistor needed can be found on the tt ECU mod thread. For ****** and giggles have you mocked up the s366 to your current TB piping mod to see if it clears?

Polarisman

Yeah, I ordered a couple aluminum reducers and modified my tb as well but no way around it, its just too damn tall. The billet plenum spacer from Rosario racing would likely help, but the turbo even with the extra space from everything would still barely clear. I could fit the turbo blanket and heat wrap, but it would be so close heat transfer to the cold side piping would still be a concern. Its an ideal turbo for people with log manifolds or a ffim setup or both, but I would rather sell than fudge it to get it to work.

Polarisman

Looking back at my prior posts is funny. I waffle more than IHOP.

I decided that I would try to make my own spacer out of delrin. I will be using the gasket as a template of sorts. On a is300 site I found the spacer thickness to be "a little over 5/8" so I ordered a 18" x3" x .75" thick bar of delrin from McMaster Carr and will use a combination of drill bits, a jigsaw, and a dremel to get this cut. We will see. At least if it doesn't work after this I will know I tried everything in my power to get it to work before throwing in the towel.

Polarisman

Making some progress here. Looks like the S366 is going to fit. Headed to Lowe's today after work to grab longer hardware and a 2" hole saw to make the ports in the delrin. Should be the best and easiest way to get a good round port. The gasket holes are like 2.125" but I have to check the ports on the manifolds themselves to verify how large the ports actually have to be, since the gaskets are often slightly oversized. Shouldn't have to do much if at all to change the diameter after the holes are drilled. Should save about $125 once all is said and done which I can put toward other fab work and charge piping!



EDIT: Progress. I got some longer hardware and a hole saw today and got a bit further. Tomorrow I gotta mock things up and figure out where I need to trim from and what to trim with. Was thinking jigsaw, just gotta be real gentle and measure twice, cut once. So far so good though.

Polarisman

Anyone know what to do with the WG dump pipe to recirculate it? On the xs power kit its in a great spot for a screamer pipe but I would rather go without the unwanted attention. Kinda rough packaging to get everything in there especially with a flex pipe.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

looks like its coming along well, post up pics when finished. some people have recirculated it, you have to get creative and cut and weld most likely. I just left it open for the most part.

Polarisman

Yeah it's been a bit of a struggle but making solid headway. My bro in law has my tb to weld the reducing pipe to it and my compressor housing to weld the cast elbow on it as well. I found out blue demon sells gasless stainless flux core mig wire and it has good reviews. My brother in law will tig it but at least i can tack everything and verify fitment of the exhaust system before welding it all up.

If I fish mouth the flex pipe itself I can weld that directly to the downpipe but need a very tight radius bend to get into the WG from there. I may have to get creative with pie cuts or something to get it to work but I'll figure something out. Should be interesting.

Polarisman

Got a bit further on the car. Got some flux core stainless gasless wire for my cheapy harbor freight welder today just to tack stuff. They're ugly tacks, but they're tacked.

For what its worth, the xs-power downpipe can be modified for use with the s366. I cut about .75" of pipe at the top including the v band clamp to make room for the marmon flange. Found a stainless one off agp turbo website. Clearances are tight to the trans, firewall, and header so I arranged everything to be closest to the header since that and the downpipe move with each other and the trans. I did fish mouth the flex pipe and pie cut the WG pipe...looks like I'll have 3/8" of room or more to the frame rail. I'll pick up some heat wrap for the dp and WG given the tight clearances to...well...everything.

Polarisman

A little embarrassed here...does anyone have an OEM union bolt they can sell me for super cheap? I drilled and tapped mine but wasn't paying attention and used 3/8" instead of 21/64" for the 1/8"-27 tap I have and its too loose. Totally out of cash ie no $35 for the is300 piece so just looking for an sc300 one. Thanks!

Polarisman

Fortunately, someone on the 2jz parts and cars group on Facebook was nice enough to essentially donate a stock sc300 union bolt for $10, so that's been drilled and tapped properly this time, and installed.

There was more than enough oil feed line included with the xs-power kit, so I had to make a "service loop" under the oil pan to get things to look nice up top. Its all tucked away very well and lands perfectly at the turbo. The turbo is clocked a little to allow the oil drain to clear the header collector. It says 15° max and it is just about there. Using 5/8" drain line and the hole is 3/4" at the drain into the block so hopefully that's all copacetic.

I ran about a half gallon of oil through the drain port with a hand pump, in every direction. Hopefully that plus the drilling precautions with heavy grease and pre cleaning I did works out. I drained everything thoroughly and put fresh oil in.

At this point, I'm waiting for my exhaust and charge piping to come back from welding, so today was just tying up loose ends. Plug wires and coils have been installed, so the next step is wiring.

One question, how do I install the fuel pulse damper bypass hose and power steering hose I bought from driftmotion? No idea whatsoever. Treat me like I'm stupid please, lol.

Pics from drilling the hole for my charge piping and its current state:

Jok3r

Hey na-t guru! I need some help before I start blowing money on a project car like I did last year. (Sc300 5sp sold before it burned like my 944). I want to do a 2jz turbo build, and need some direction/advice.
From what I've researched so far I 'believe' I want a 92-98ish non-vvti 2jzge, a head gasket from a TT 2jzgte, a. AEM v2, and some cx racing turbo kit with a different turbo.
First question> if I do the early GE motor do I need to do a distributor delete and go coil packs?
Second> with an AEM v2 what harness/computer do I need to start with? For a couple hundred $$ more can I get a kit for all new wiring made for what I want. (Car is a 350z cd009 6mt)
Third>> if [vvti ge motor is 10.5:1+TT head gasket =9.2:1 compression] what is [non vvti 10.0:1+TT head gasket =???] 8.7:1 not sure if it works like that.
If you have advice on comparable parts like stand alones, turbo manifolds, etc I would really appreciate it. I'm sure I will have more questions about fuel pumps and returns, and injectors and actual turbos later.
Thought of another question. For the 350z swap I believe I need a front sumped GE from a gs300 not a rear sump from a sc300 or am I wrong?

SUPRMSC

iTrader: (7)

Hey Ali SC3!

Thank you for all the guidance you've put over the years for the NA-T enthusiasts, I've personally learned a tremendous amount just reading this thread and the other ECU thread

I've been using the stock GE ECU with a MAP ECU for many years now, running without O2 sensors for drive-ability but the car runs excessively rich.

Here is my setup:

1. 1996 SC300 2JZ-GE with MAP ECU 1
2. Auto transmission
3. T61 Turbo

What I'm looking to do is get the following parts and then have it installed:

1. 1996-2000 Aristo JDM ECU Auto
2. 1996+ Aristo JDM Turbo MAP Sensor
3. 1996+ Aristo JDM Turbo IAT
4. Leave the stock distributor

My questions are:

1. How would the MAP Sensor and IAT sensors be installed? Simply drilled into the air intake near the throttle body, and bolt it in?
2. Do additional wires for the harnesses need to be made to have the MAP Sensor and IAT work from the ECU?
3. Does it matter if the JDM EDU is any year as long as it's an Aristo TT ecu for my 1996?

Thank you again for all the information so far, I think I can get closer and closer to the drive-ability that I wanted many years ago.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Sounds like it should be fine, you often need to clock the turbo slightly and incorporate a small angle into the drain to clear the runners generally speaking.
15 degrees won't mess anything up as long as all the bends in the return lines below are nice and smooth (No 90 degree fittings, only 45 degree fittings or less).
5/8 should be fine but make sure not to over oil the turbo. alot of guys say use a 4an line and a huge return. in my opinion 4an is huge and will need a larger drain to keep the turbo happy.
A 3an line will oil the turbo just fine and not require as large of a drain if you have issues. I used a 3an line on my setup just fine with a journal bearing turbo.
The idea is to have a steady stream of oil to float the bearing without it being pressurized. once the center section pressurizes from a bad return or too much oil volume/pressure on the feed, you get oil out the turbine exhaust.
if you have ever had a 4an line leak or break on you (or even a 3an), you will see that in a few seconds it moves a large amount of oil and can run the engine dry rather quick.
If you ever have a turbo oil leak.. shut that thing down quick!!

1) you can use the distributor or go coilpacks, going coilpacks is a little more work but you will have better spark and more room for the turbo intake pipe.
2) the aem v1 and v2 generally plug into a 92-98 sc300 or sc400 (years might be different) non-vvti harness (all have same connector). It is a standalone so it can run either one once setup properly.
3)It does not work like that. non vvti 2jzge (10:1) + tt headgasket = 9.2:1
Using a vvti head instead arguably raises that number a few points, like 9.3:1 maybe, but there is still a debate going on about that as to how much of the .5 compression bump on vvti is due to the head and how much is due to the pistons.

I don't know much about 350z swaps. a good indication I have found for swaps is to take a look at what the motor in the car has. if the 350z engine has a rear sump or a mid/front sump.
I am sure that swap has been done enough times to find on the 350z forum or somewhere else on here, but is not really a na-t question.

You want a non vvti aristo 2jzgte ecu. these start from like 92 up so don't limit yourself to a 96+ ecu. the JDM ecu's do not have obd2, so pre 96 or post 96 doesn't matter wen it comes to the JDM stuff.

You should read through the 2jz na-t tt ecu mod thread, all of your questions are answered on the first post.

normally on a 92-95 sc300 you would be wiring up the Map sensor and the IAT to your old maf plug which is easiest.
Since you have a 96, your maf is different (12v vs older 5v maf), and the map sensor needs 5v which is not on the 96+maf plug so you have a few options.

The IAT is normally included in the stock MAF, so if you are removing that you need to install the IAT to the stock maf plug connector.
If you are not planning to remove the maf, then you can just leave it in and use that as the IAT.

Now for the map sensor, if you remove the maf then you can reuse the maf sensor signal wire running to the ecu as the map sensor signal wire (and move the pin at the ecu like in the thread).
You can also run the 5v and sensor ground wires for the map sensor to the ecu, or you can tap into the tps in the engine bay for these 2 wires.
Alternatively, if you are leaving the maf in, then you need to run a new signal wire to the ecu.

There are a number of ways to do it, but its not a straight forward on 96-97 sc300s due to the newer maf.
basically the map sensor will need 5v, sensor ground (different from regular ground), and a signal wire to the ecu.
the IAT will need 2 wires going to the ecu or the maf plug, or you can leave the maf in and let it be the IAT but most people who are na-t usually are trying to remove the maf as it is a restriction on the intake pipe.

Also to note for future readers, when you have to run new wires to the ecu often you can repurpose another wire that is already in the engine harness instead of running new wires.
It really depends on how much you do or don't want to modify your harness.

like for example, the JDM ecu only uses one o2 sensor on the engine, but our US harnesses have 2 02 sensors on the engine.
so when swapping to a JDM ecu, one could re purpose the signal wire for the second o2 sensor since its not going to be used anymore.
This is also the same for alot of vsv's on the intake side of the engine.

If you plan on ever reverting back to stock or don't want to modify your current harness, then run the new wires along side the stock harness so you can undo/remove it easily later.
This is probably what most people will end up doing who are 96-97, but if you are simplifying your harness or removing extra wires, don't forget you can just re purpose the ones in the harness you aren't using instead of adding new ones.

Gerrrb is really good at this type of stuff and you should read his wiring thread for general wiring info if any of that sounds interesting to you.

As far as physical installation into the car, the map sensor just needs a vac line and I generally tee it into the vac line going to the fuel pressure regulator on the front on the drivers side of the engine.
For the IAT, you want that to be in the intake pipe pre turbo or you can weld/bolt it to the manifold with the right fittings, but it tends to heatsoak in the manifold so I usually say the turbo intake pipe is easier and doesn't see boost.