Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yeah you should be fine playing with it at idle but I wouldn't drive it around much even out of boost, all that extra fuel can cause engine issues if its for a prolonged period of time.
Moving the car from one parking spot to the other wouldn't be a big deal though, just keep it out of serious load.

japsc85

By chance does anybody know of a vehicle that uses the same pigtail for the map sensor so I can hit up a junkyard for the pigtail Thanks

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

lots of toyota's use a similar pig tail with 3 pins, but they usually have different tabs on the side. You can find one of those and just shave off the tab on the map sensor.
In fact, if you have a space SC harness, I want to say there is a 3 pin connector like that somewhere on there which will work with the tab shaved off.
If you don't want to get into the tab shaving bit (cause nothing will prevent you from inserting it the wrong way after that) then you will need the actual map sensor pigtail.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

japsc85

Look what I found in the connector been at work 🥶

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

nice find!

japsc85

B/w ? B tach B/o power Y/w ? R/y igf I found some information on page 4 but I am not sure

japsc85

So I got the car running with the TT ECU. I am using 420 cc WRX injectors with stock fuel pump. Vvti coils and Ignitor, still need to throw in the 340 pump .. however the car is running super rich. Immediately when you turn it on, it runs at 14.5 but within seconds it plummets to 10.5. Any ideas why it may be running so rich?

Polarisman

Are you running the 4 wire o2 or single? If single it'll stay rich for a few minutes while the car warms up, but the 4 wire should start to correct in less than a minute. Additionally, when you first start the car it has to run rich or it will stall. That's why WUE (warm up enrichment) exists in the tuning world.

japsc85

Single one wire with Both 02 wires tied in to one.

Polarisman

Not sure if it will do anything bad having both tied in like that but B48 on my '92 was the lead coming from closest to the radiator. The rear one was either B47 or B49, can't remember which, but only B48 is needed for this swap for the signal wire. Also make sure the outer shield isn't grounding out the center pin at all as that will make things a bit loopy as well. Given they are single wire they will take a while to warm up...I'd think letting it idle for 10 minutes or driving around a few minutes to heat the o2 sensor up and then checking the readings would give you an accurate one.

If it isn't in the right neighborhood after that, and verifying your base timing is set correctly, you may want to calibrate your TPS. Ali mentioned a few times that it can throw just about everything off pretty drastically.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

That is normal, when it cold starts it is usually in the 10-11 AFR range. the 14.5 you are seeing is just the gauge turning on and it reads stoich for a few seconds until the wideband o2 heater kicks in.

Correct.

This is incorrect, you should have one o2 sensor on the JDM ecu, and it should go to the one spot on the ecu. If you splice them neither one will work correctly.

Pretty spot on, on the first few starts it takes a few minutes for the o2 to kick in and you will see it creep up from 10-11 it was sitting at to 14 then to 15 then it will swing back and forth between the 2.
If you are not seeing that you probably have the wiring wrong, so double check that. after the ecu learns some (with the heated o2 working), it will start correcting within a minute of starting up.. happens pretty fast but not at first.

once you are sure you have it wired up or fixed the wiring (you can see it fluctuating on the gauge), go ahead and reset the ecu once and start it up the next day on a cold start and let it learn again from scratch.
It generally does best when it is reset and learns with a working o2 from the start.

japsc85

I got base timing set today with a timing light. checkengine light was on . checked for codes have code 21 and 31 code 21 I believe is for the O2 sensor due to the fact I am running a single wire I believe code 31 is the reason why I am consistently running rich I drove the car a little bit around to see if it would change under load it goes full lean .. Car is running very well at idle and revs good. Besides the fact that the air fuel ratio does not move off of 10 . I’m not sure where to go from here with code 31

Polarisman

You need to isolate those two wires for the o2 sensor first so that only b48 is connected. Beyond that if it doesn't fix the issue by running and learning things through adaptive learning a bit then it may be TPS or something else.

japsc85

I did do that nothing changed I believe it may have something to do with the air fuel controller still being wired in I’m going to rip all that out and go from there