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code 31 means there is an issue with the map sensor, usually means you have it wired wrong or it is a bad/fried map sensor which can happen if you short the power and ground wires even once.
what happens is the ecu can see the default of 5V when there is an issue or it is fried and the ecu gives fueling for that load which is under full boost.
It is basically a limp mode and provides fueling for the worst case scenario to save the engine.
that gives you a super rich idle and popping under most any load. don't run it long like that it will wash down the oil with gas after a while from being so rich.
change out the oil once you get it fixed also.
the o2 heater is nothing to worry about if the o2 sensor is wired correctly, just will take another minute to warm up and correct (mostly an issue on a hot engine restart).
figure out what is wrong with the map sensor. check the wiring, and use a probe to see what the signal wire is with key on engine off, and then again with key on engine on.
it should change from 2.x volts to 1.x volts or something like that. if it does not change there is an issue.
You will are the man !! And will probably laugh when I tell you I pinned it but didn’t connect it so the yellow and green was never connected this being my problem
If anybody cares if I got it figured out runs like a champ as soon as I get everything buttoned up I will take pictures and posted thanks for all the help
just picked up a stage 2 boostlogic na-t kit for my 92 sc300. It includes all the normal stuff plus intercooler, 550cc injectors, and upgraded fuel pump.
i think I want to go AEM for engine management as opposed to ecu mod + piggy back.
used 2jzgte units are easier to find but I wanted to make sure that both the V1 1100 and V2 6100 will both plug and play on the sc300.
Found a lot of conflicting information from searching. Some people say that there’s a jumper cable inside the housing that’s needed to make it work. Others say some pins need to be moved. Found a thread that said you just have to load the program for the 2jzge for it work and no rewiring is needed. I’m hoping that last one was true as that would make it much easier.
I’ll probably be asking a ton more questions as this is my first turbo conversion.
also, the headgasket that comes with the kit is a 2.5mm. I read that it drops the compression a bit to low and is a bit outdated. Should I opt for the stock TT headgasket instead?
I haven't opened an AEM unit up but I have used a 1100 on a na-t and it did work, although I did have crank pickup issues with certain distributors but I found a few that worked fine.
It was a little picky at times, so I can't say for sure there isn't a slight difference between the 2 boxes, but you can usually get them to work.
I have heard conflicting info also as if there is actually a difference, but as far as generally speaking you can use a gte one with the right map/settings loaded.
The reason some might find a difference on na-t is probably due to the distributor not putting out as good as a signal as the gte pickup on the crank.
The ones that definitely need changes like jumpers or the extra pull up resistors are the custom trigger setups that have switched to hall effect sensors.
The kit comes with a 2.5mm headgasket? that seems like a waste. Personally, the thickest gasket I would use is a TT headgasket which is like 1.3mm or so.
I have only ever run the stock ge headgasket (when I first went na-t) and the stock gte headgasket (use this on pretty much any JZ I put together).
You will not need the 2.5mm headgasket if you are on a standalone, that is a bandaid solution to lower the compression so much to balance for a crappy tune / stock n/a ecu setups.
I haven't opened an AEM unit up but I have used a 1100 on a na-t and it did work, although I did have crank pickup issues with certain distributors but I found a few that worked fine.
It was a little picky at times, so I can't say for sure there isn't a slight difference between the 2 boxes, but you can usually get them to work.
I have heard conflicting info also as if there is actually a difference, but as far as generally speaking you can use a gte one with the right map/settings loaded.
The reason some might find a difference on na-t is probably due to the distributor not putting out as good as a signal as the gte pickup on the crank.
The ones that definitely need changes like jumpers or the extra pull up resistors are the custom trigger setups that have switched to hall effect sensors.
The kit comes with a 2.5mm headgasket? that seems like a waste. Personally, the thickest gasket I would use is a TT headgasket which is like 1.3mm or so.
I have only ever run the stock ge headgasket (when I first went na-t) and the stock gte headgasket (use this on pretty much any JZ I put together).
You will not need the 2.5mm headgasket if you are on a standalone, that is a bandaid solution to lower the compression so much to balance for a crappy tune / stock n/a ecu setups.
Thanks for the input. I’ll also probably go with TT head gasket instead of the 2.5mm that was included with the kit.
I had some time to kill and decided pulling the wires for my AEM fuel pump was probably a good idea. They call for 12 gauge wire, unless your total wire length is over 20', where they suggest 10 gauge. I'm running 12 gauge with an external 30A relay, utilizing the stock pump power wire as a trigger for the relay.
Anyway, for anyone who has installed a larger than stock pump, what did you do about the wire gauge where it passes through the tank itself? It appears to be 16 gauge or so, and I'm concerned it would create a wiring "hot spot" where it necks down at the tank entry point...Basically the worst place for it.
Also, what did you do with the old ground wire coming from the fuel pump ECU? I am assuming grounding it is the right call, as the ECU may not send power to the stock pump power wire without it.
Has anybody encountered wide open throttle shifting issues it seems that my car 99% of the time will just bounce off the Revlimid or and will not shift I have to treat it like a manual let off and then get back into it
I know it won't control the torque converter based on the TT ecu thread...maybe it has other effects. Then again its been said the aristo ecu kinda "lags" right before gear changes at wot so maybe your tps is off just enough to not "lag" and smack the limiter instead. Try calibrating that if you haven't already.
I decided to make up the wiring solution myself for the fuel pump wiring. I decided to drill out the rivets on the fuel pump cover on the tank so I could put fresh ring lugs on there and just use some small hardware with kep nuts to hold the new ring lugs in place. The power and ground wire pigtail supplied with the AEM pump are just long enough to attach ring lugs to and bolt to the cover first, secure the cover to the tank, then plug the harness in from the trunk side access hole. I didn't want to extend those wires as I didn't want to find out the hard way that the insulation or shrink tube wasn't made for immersion in fuel. The only thing I couldn't reconnect was the piece riveted to the pump hanger and tapped into the v+, hopefully this isn't essential.
All of this made it so the only solder joint necessary was for the v+ on the outside of the tank which I will do out of the car and just use a heat shrink butt splice to attach. Hopefully 5 seconds with a heat gun near a leak free tank with good ventilation, no fumes and a portable fan won't lead to my early demise.
Certainly should be. I'll be running 10-12psi on stock compression with my setup which is very similar to yours besides the head gasket. I believe others have pushed it further than I have, 14psi+on stock compression on pump gas. Can't wait to be on the other side of the fence, enjoying it like you are...How's it feel? With any luck mine will be driving by the end of the weekend!
So I’m on the hunt for a manual transmission the biggest thing is adapter plates and justifying the price on adapter plates in my hunt for this I have come across a company from overseas called PMC motorsports Quality looks excellent and I will save hundreds compared to the company that sells the same thing here in the states I believe..I will be going this route hopefully by the end of summer
Yeah Collins is pricey for their swap but its still cheaper to buy their kit plus a brand new cd009 trans than it is to buy a beat v160 so its all relative. I'll be going that way eventually since the ole w58 prob won't take the s366 abuse for too long, especially if I decide to go with the TT head gasket, ARP studs, 650cc injectors and s-afc eventually.
Things are going well here, but not perfect. My wastegate dump tube was an absolute nightmare to install and has left my downpipe not fitting as well as before. I still have exhaust leaks at the turbo manifold flange and downpipe to midpipe flange...though that was my dumb *** assuming v band flanges from different companies would be compatible with one another (...they aren't) so that may need reworking.
I'm waiting on the coupler to join my compressor outlet to intercooler piping. Not sure if my AEM uego wideband is working right. Doesn't do much moving around when I stab the gas. Also seems very rich and I have some white smoke out the exhaust, but I think this is from the coolant in my cylinders from a leaking uncapped TB supply line filling the plug well. Most was removed with a shop vac and paper towels before removing the plugs, but inevitably some got in there. I'm keeping an eye on my coolant and oil, but levels look good, smell fine and look fine so there is only so much I can do.
Once my intake loop is complete, I'll set the timing and verify tps positioning, then set my sights on fixing leaks and stuff.
Despite all that, you couldn't wipe the grin off my face when this puppy started...
05-29-19, 01:03 PM
