NA-T Questions?? Ask the Guru
07-01-19, 09:16 AM
#362
Looking good, both of your projects are coming along!!
Polaris that is good news on the ecu, hopefully that will fix it. I just did a search around for those JDM ecus and it seems harder to find now, probably cause of the mod lol.
Silent, I usually just splice one B+ wire at the ignitor and run that straight to the last coil, and for the 2 coils in between I do another 2 splices on that B+ wire.
last time I did it I used a gauge thicker than the stock wire, but as long as its as thick as the stock wire it should be fine.
You are firing one coil at a time so it works out just fine. the relay is not necessary unless you have like 6 higher power aftermarket coils in there.
Polaris that is good news on the ecu, hopefully that will fix it. I just did a search around for those JDM ecus and it seems harder to find now, probably cause of the mod lol.
Silent, I usually just splice one B+ wire at the ignitor and run that straight to the last coil, and for the 2 coils in between I do another 2 splices on that B+ wire.
last time I did it I used a gauge thicker than the stock wire, but as long as its as thick as the stock wire it should be fine.
You are firing one coil at a time so it works out just fine. the relay is not necessary unless you have like 6 higher power aftermarket coils in there.
07-01-19, 11:12 AM
#363
Advanced
Looking good, both of your projects are coming along!!
Polaris that is good news on the ecu, hopefully that will fix it. I just did a search around for those JDM ecus and it seems harder to find now, probably cause of the mod lol.
Silent, I usually just splice one B+ wire at the ignitor and run that straight to the last coil, and for the 2 coils in between I do another 2 splices on that B+ wire.
last time I did it I used a gauge thicker than the stock wire, but as long as its as thick as the stock wire it should be fine.
You are firing one coil at a time so it works out just fine. the relay is not necessary unless you have like 6 higher power aftermarket coils in there.
Polaris that is good news on the ecu, hopefully that will fix it. I just did a search around for those JDM ecus and it seems harder to find now, probably cause of the mod lol.
Silent, I usually just splice one B+ wire at the ignitor and run that straight to the last coil, and for the 2 coils in between I do another 2 splices on that B+ wire.
last time I did it I used a gauge thicker than the stock wire, but as long as its as thick as the stock wire it should be fine.
You are firing one coil at a time so it works out just fine. the relay is not necessary unless you have like 6 higher power aftermarket coils in there.
I don't need the other wires on the igniter harness for anything right since i am running my coil trigger wires right to the EMU?
As for the all the million emissions plugs that were under the intake, can i trim most of that away?
Obviously i want to keep the IACV, knock sensors, oil pressure, oil level sensor etc.
Another question i had was, will my standalone be able to read oil pressure or is the sensor like a dummy light?
Curious because i kind of want to get a couple BTI gauges so i can list out multiple parameters on them.
07-01-19, 01:05 PM
#364
If the ecu has a built in igniter functionality, then just the coil wires to the coils. you will also need to wire up the cars tach signal to an output on the ecu as that normally comes from the stock ignitor (tac or tach wire).
You should be able to find this wire on the body plug and then run it to an output on the ecu instead of going to where stock ignitor was.
For the power wire you can also peel back the GE harness where the stock coil is (on passenger side stock), it has 2 pins and you can reuse the power wire/pin as the one for the coils, it is long enough to reach the back coil once the harness is unwrapped.
The second wire is the stock coil trigger wire from the ignitor, you probably will not be reusing this one since it does not run to the ecu.
alot of the emissions stuff can be removed. my advice is take pictures and then put back only what you need/want. everyones ends up a little different, but use the hood sticker for reference or you can find it online.
you can remove the ACIS tank and vsv, and connect it to the intake manifold straight like shown in the tt ecu mod, unless you want to program your standalone to activate it at the right times then you leave it all in place and program it. This can help with cruise and maybe a bit on spool, but you get most of the performance advantage with it just connected straight so that is the simplest way to go.
I want to say the stock pressure sensor is just an on/off type of deal, if you want the actual oil pressure you need to install an aftermarket one for the gauge type you are using.
There are a few different spots on the block you can install it, like on a tee with the turbo oil feed line when you are doing that, use the spot for the vvti oil pressure feed and an adapter depending on year, or if you run an aftermarket oil cooler lots of guys stick one in those.
You should be able to find this wire on the body plug and then run it to an output on the ecu instead of going to where stock ignitor was.
For the power wire you can also peel back the GE harness where the stock coil is (on passenger side stock), it has 2 pins and you can reuse the power wire/pin as the one for the coils, it is long enough to reach the back coil once the harness is unwrapped.
The second wire is the stock coil trigger wire from the ignitor, you probably will not be reusing this one since it does not run to the ecu.
alot of the emissions stuff can be removed. my advice is take pictures and then put back only what you need/want. everyones ends up a little different, but use the hood sticker for reference or you can find it online.
you can remove the ACIS tank and vsv, and connect it to the intake manifold straight like shown in the tt ecu mod, unless you want to program your standalone to activate it at the right times then you leave it all in place and program it. This can help with cruise and maybe a bit on spool, but you get most of the performance advantage with it just connected straight so that is the simplest way to go.
I want to say the stock pressure sensor is just an on/off type of deal, if you want the actual oil pressure you need to install an aftermarket one for the gauge type you are using.
There are a few different spots on the block you can install it, like on a tee with the turbo oil feed line when you are doing that, use the spot for the vvti oil pressure feed and an adapter depending on year, or if you run an aftermarket oil cooler lots of guys stick one in those.
07-02-19, 08:01 AM
#365
Advanced
If the ecu has a built in igniter functionality, then just the coil wires to the coils. you will also need to wire up the cars tach signal to an output on the ecu as that normally comes from the stock ignitor (tac or tach wire).
You should be able to find this wire on the body plug and then run it to an output on the ecu instead of going to where stock ignitor was.
For the power wire you can also peel back the GE harness where the stock coil is (on passenger side stock), it has 2 pins and you can reuse the power wire/pin as the one for the coils, it is long enough to reach the back coil once the harness is unwrapped.
The second wire is the stock coil trigger wire from the ignitor, you probably will not be reusing this one since it does not run to the ecu.
alot of the emissions stuff can be removed. my advice is take pictures and then put back only what you need/want. everyones ends up a little different, but use the hood sticker for reference or you can find it online.
you can remove the ACIS tank and vsv, and connect it to the intake manifold straight like shown in the tt ecu mod, unless you want to program your standalone to activate it at the right times then you leave it all in place and program it. This can help with cruise and maybe a bit on spool, but you get most of the performance advantage with it just connected straight so that is the simplest way to go.
I want to say the stock pressure sensor is just an on/off type of deal, if you want the actual oil pressure you need to install an aftermarket one for the gauge type you are using.
There are a few different spots on the block you can install it, like on a tee with the turbo oil feed line when you are doing that, use the spot for the vvti oil pressure feed and an adapter depending on year, or if you run an aftermarket oil cooler lots of guys stick one in those.
You should be able to find this wire on the body plug and then run it to an output on the ecu instead of going to where stock ignitor was.
For the power wire you can also peel back the GE harness where the stock coil is (on passenger side stock), it has 2 pins and you can reuse the power wire/pin as the one for the coils, it is long enough to reach the back coil once the harness is unwrapped.
The second wire is the stock coil trigger wire from the ignitor, you probably will not be reusing this one since it does not run to the ecu.
alot of the emissions stuff can be removed. my advice is take pictures and then put back only what you need/want. everyones ends up a little different, but use the hood sticker for reference or you can find it online.
you can remove the ACIS tank and vsv, and connect it to the intake manifold straight like shown in the tt ecu mod, unless you want to program your standalone to activate it at the right times then you leave it all in place and program it. This can help with cruise and maybe a bit on spool, but you get most of the performance advantage with it just connected straight so that is the simplest way to go.
I want to say the stock pressure sensor is just an on/off type of deal, if you want the actual oil pressure you need to install an aftermarket one for the gauge type you are using.
There are a few different spots on the block you can install it, like on a tee with the turbo oil feed line when you are doing that, use the spot for the vvti oil pressure feed and an adapter depending on year, or if you run an aftermarket oil cooler lots of guys stick one in those.
Any recommendations for intercooler setups? I hear the CX racing is kinda garbage and I don't see any other kits for these cars lol.
I'll be running a FFIM hypertune style.
07-02-19, 11:53 AM
#366
Not really any specific recommendations, I have used the universal ones in the past like what CX has for sale and they work fine.
There are better options out there but I am not sure if its worth it unless you are shooting for big power, then you may want one with a larger core and outlets etc..
There are better options out there but I am not sure if its worth it unless you are shooting for big power, then you may want one with a larger core and outlets etc..
07-02-19, 11:54 AM
#367
Advanced
Not really any specific recommendations, I have used the universal ones in the past like what CX has for sale and they work fine.
There are better options out there but I am not sure if its worth it unless you are shooting for big power, then you may want one with a larger core and outlets etc..
There are better options out there but I am not sure if its worth it unless you are shooting for big power, then you may want one with a larger core and outlets etc..
07-02-19, 06:13 PM
#368
Honestly the CX one fits fine and with 3" in and out it can flow plenty of air. I have mine downsized to 2.5" for packaging since my power goals aren't too lofty but the hole in the battery tray is 3.5" so there is room for growth should I need it. It isn't symmetrical when viewing from the front, but without a ffim or a mile of intercooler piping, a standard ic won't fit well.
Learn from my mistakes on this one. The conformal coating is silicone based. Don't use a UV oven to cure and don't use urethane based UV conformal coat. Between running it through the 400w oven and the other trips through wash and bake oven it ruined the ecu. The UV oven caused the ribbon cables to partially delaminate, and must have fried something else too. The car started and ran twice but on the third attempt it was totally dead. No check engine light when the key was in the on position, and no eventual starting like it would before. I did a sanity check with my old ECU to verify no fuses were blown, etc and the check engine light popped right on as it should have. It wouldn't start, but that's to be expected with the drastic differences in injectors, sensors, etc.
Long story short, screw trying to fix this ECU. Facebook has a few good 2jz groups I wish I knew about when I started buying stuff for this swap, and I found a known good Aristo ECU from a long term trusted member of the community for less than $120 shipped. It'll be here Friday, and if that doesn't fix things once and for all, I quit.
Learn from my mistakes on this one. The conformal coating is silicone based. Don't use a UV oven to cure and don't use urethane based UV conformal coat. Between running it through the 400w oven and the other trips through wash and bake oven it ruined the ecu. The UV oven caused the ribbon cables to partially delaminate, and must have fried something else too. The car started and ran twice but on the third attempt it was totally dead. No check engine light when the key was in the on position, and no eventual starting like it would before. I did a sanity check with my old ECU to verify no fuses were blown, etc and the check engine light popped right on as it should have. It wouldn't start, but that's to be expected with the drastic differences in injectors, sensors, etc.
Long story short, screw trying to fix this ECU. Facebook has a few good 2jz groups I wish I knew about when I started buying stuff for this swap, and I found a known good Aristo ECU from a long term trusted member of the community for less than $120 shipped. It'll be here Friday, and if that doesn't fix things once and for all, I quit.
07-03-19, 12:56 PM
#369
Advanced
Honestly the CX one fits fine and with 3" in and out it can flow plenty of air. I have mine downsized to 2.5" for packaging since my power goals aren't too lofty but the hole in the battery tray is 3.5" so there is room for growth should I need it. It isn't symmetrical when viewing from the front, but without a ffim or a mile of intercooler piping, a standard ic won't fit well.
Learn from my mistakes on this one. The conformal coating is silicone based. Don't use a UV oven to cure and don't use urethane based UV conformal coat. Between running it through the 400w oven and the other trips through wash and bake oven it ruined the ecu. The UV oven caused the ribbon cables to partially delaminate, and must have fried something else too. The car started and ran twice but on the third attempt it was totally dead. No check engine light when the key was in the on position, and no eventual starting like it would before. I did a sanity check with my old ECU to verify no fuses were blown, etc and the check engine light popped right on as it should have. It wouldn't start, but that's to be expected with the drastic differences in injectors, sensors, etc.
Long story short, screw trying to fix this ECU. Facebook has a few good 2jz groups I wish I knew about when I started buying stuff for this swap, and I found a known good Aristo ECU from a long term trusted member of the community for less than $120 shipped. It'll be here Friday, and if that doesn't fix things once and for all, I quit.
Learn from my mistakes on this one. The conformal coating is silicone based. Don't use a UV oven to cure and don't use urethane based UV conformal coat. Between running it through the 400w oven and the other trips through wash and bake oven it ruined the ecu. The UV oven caused the ribbon cables to partially delaminate, and must have fried something else too. The car started and ran twice but on the third attempt it was totally dead. No check engine light when the key was in the on position, and no eventual starting like it would before. I did a sanity check with my old ECU to verify no fuses were blown, etc and the check engine light popped right on as it should have. It wouldn't start, but that's to be expected with the drastic differences in injectors, sensors, etc.
Long story short, screw trying to fix this ECU. Facebook has a few good 2jz groups I wish I knew about when I started buying stuff for this swap, and I found a known good Aristo ECU from a long term trusted member of the community for less than $120 shipped. It'll be here Friday, and if that doesn't fix things once and for all, I quit.
Good luck polarisman, sidenote do you have polaris toys? lol
07-03-19, 02:07 PM
#370
Yeah, I was huge into sleds when I was a teen and younger, picked that screen name when I was 12 or so just getting into email and forums and it's stuck for 20 years lol. Only have my '88 polaris sprint 340 but hopefully the kiddos will love it someday the way I did.
07-07-19, 11:11 AM
#371
Good news so far, new Aristo ECU seems to have solved the problem. Still has spark blowout but that will discourage me from spending too much time at full boost or high rpm anyway. If it isn't the gap then it may be the "OEM equivalent" coil packs, etc I bought. Figured those new were better than questionable condition used OEM ones, but who knows.
How many drive cycles does it take before the tps learns its position? I had the idle at a perfect 800 when hot after calibrating tps after adjusting idle speed to a happy medium. Just curious as the idle is a little erratic on warm restarts due to tps indexing. No issues with drivability and no cel, just can hear it when I let it idle.
Driving it to work and for inspection tomorrow. Needs a bit more clearancing work for the downpipe v band and more tightening on midpipe to tailpipe flange but the leak isnt noticeable anymore and I can't get any bigger tools etc under there with the jack, ramps and stands it has now. This will do!
How many drive cycles does it take before the tps learns its position? I had the idle at a perfect 800 when hot after calibrating tps after adjusting idle speed to a happy medium. Just curious as the idle is a little erratic on warm restarts due to tps indexing. No issues with drivability and no cel, just can hear it when I let it idle.
Driving it to work and for inspection tomorrow. Needs a bit more clearancing work for the downpipe v band and more tightening on midpipe to tailpipe flange but the leak isnt noticeable anymore and I can't get any bigger tools etc under there with the jack, ramps and stands it has now. This will do!
07-08-19, 06:30 AM
#372
Advanced
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Thanks Ali for the wiring advice, i made my coil harness last night, few more wiring changes like move the iacv wiring by the intake side and probably move O2 wiring but i can do all that in the car.
I ran the trigger wires for the coils all the way up the harness and re-used some automatic trans pins (i'm manual) to plop them where the emu expects them so it is truly a plug and play now.
07-08-19, 09:06 AM
#373
looks good silent.
Polaris, the tps is just a set type thing it doesn't learn, but it can help to reset the ecu if you move it.
on hot restarts you always get a low idle for 30 seconds or so, generally goes away if you blip the throttle a few times or let it warm up.
The spark blow out is probably the gap and the fuel mixture being so rich. I would try and gap them down a hair until you find a good spot.
Polaris, the tps is just a set type thing it doesn't learn, but it can help to reset the ecu if you move it.
on hot restarts you always get a low idle for 30 seconds or so, generally goes away if you blip the throttle a few times or let it warm up.
The spark blow out is probably the gap and the fuel mixture being so rich. I would try and gap them down a hair until you find a good spot.
07-08-19, 03:42 PM
#374
Honestly I'm not too worried. If I end up putting a lower psi spring in the wastegate to preserve the clutch I will do it but I don't feel like dealing with pulling the tb and stuff right now to re gap.
I'm at a bit of a crossroads right now. Ideally my trans will not grenade and I can sell it to help fund my ar5 swap. In doing that, though, there really isn't any sense in buying the clutch disk for the w58. All that's gonna do is make the trans the fuse instead of the clutch.
On the same token though, kids are wicked expensive so the couple grand it will take for the swap will take forever to save for. What would you do?
I'm at a bit of a crossroads right now. Ideally my trans will not grenade and I can sell it to help fund my ar5 swap. In doing that, though, there really isn't any sense in buying the clutch disk for the w58. All that's gonna do is make the trans the fuse instead of the clutch.
On the same token though, kids are wicked expensive so the couple grand it will take for the swap will take forever to save for. What would you do?
07-08-19, 08:12 PM
#375
Advanced
I just found a cd009 locally for 1k and i wish i could justify it right this second. If my other block sells that's what i'm getting.
What are some options for throttle cables and FFIM?
What are some options for throttle cables and FFIM?