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I just found a cd009 locally for 1k and i wish i could justify it right this second. If my other block sells that's what i'm getting.
What are some options for throttle cables and FFIM?
That is a sweet deal on that trans. I'm going ar-5 when the chance presents itself. Straightforward swap, strong, cheap, readily available. I would think a stock supra TT throttle cable would work, right?
I am having a weird issue. Thinking it may be related to adaptive learning, or perhaps yet again ECU caps? While the car is warming up, the car will go fully lean within a few seconds of throttle input. The only way to keep this from happening is to constantly blip the gas every few seconds, which must average out to stoich. Once the car is fully warmed up, this phenomenon goes away entirely and everything is back to normal. I thought this had something to do with the monsoon rains we had yesterday, but maybe more likely it happened as a result of adaptive learning corrections after my charge pipe popped out under boost and I drove it like that for a few miles/drive cycles? I was worried it was the fuel pump ECU, but jumping FP to B+ did nothing, and I was also worried it was water in the gas or my fuel pump, but then I noticed it goes away completely after the car is fully warmed up. TPS is also unlikely given this scenario. Basically, I'm thinking adaptive learning or ECU caps (I'm now paranoid after my previous experience). I'll try to replicate it one more time, and flash the ecu to clear adaptive and try again and report back.
If you had a pipe come off you probably need to reset the ecu and let it learn again. if the ecu does have issues they do tend to be worse when its humid, or when its warmed up.. so not really sure on that side of things. try the reset first.
If you had a pipe come off you probably need to reset the ecu and let it learn again. if the ecu does have issues they do tend to be worse when its humid, or when its warmed up.. so not really sure on that side of things. try the reset first.
I reset the ecu and the issue persists. Going to try another cold start today to verify, but at this point its looking like the ECU is the culprit again given all the symptoms. My thought is the caps in the neighborhood of the circuitry responsible for operation during warmup may be leaking and causing issues...its a consistent issue that goes away when warm and doesn't show up whatsoever unless the car is anything other than fully warm. It has been very humid lately so that part makes sense, but I agree generally thermal issues get worse not better with extended use. Time to pull the ECU again I guess.
Welp, caps strike again. I gave it a few more starts for good measure with no change and double checked my tps, which is set as perfect as can be. Opened the case which had clearly never been opened (as previous owner said) and lo and behold more brown cap goop here and there. No long term damage anywhere. Fortunately the cap kit on eBay is only $13.50 or so and knowing the reference designators in the board and values from last time I just ordered them from digi-key for $7.50 shipped instead. Got a $40 refund from previous owner since it was sold to me as known good, so I can pay to get the rework done.
This time I'll skip running the ECU through the DI wash and baking in the oven. Also skipping the acrylic conformal coat and UV oven...may skip silicone conformal coat entirely honestly. I don't want to kill this ECU.
I like the CX it's not bad, i got the 1/2JZ-GTE kit so it comes over to the drivers side for the FFIM. Mine was missing some hardware, big shocker lmao
You may not be able to clock it enough to get a coupler and clamps in there before the housing hits the #1 runner. Additionally, putting a hard bend after the turbo and having it be a coupler makes you way more susceptible to blowing the charge pipe off there. Most people have a 90 degree cast elbow welded on. I went with a 45 I already had and it worked pretty well but I bet 90 would have given me more clocking adjustability. Either way, pick your poison. I actually had a ton of hardware left with my cx kit, lol.
You may not be able to clock it enough to get a coupler and clamps in there before the housing hits the #1 runner. Additionally, putting a hard bend after the turbo and having it be a coupler makes you way more susceptible to blowing the charge pipe off there. Most people have a 90 degree cast elbow welded on. I went with a 45 I already had and it worked pretty well but I bet 90 would have given me more clocking adjustability. Either way, pick your poison. I actually had a ton of hardware left with my cx kit, lol.
Yeah i was worried about that. I'll have to find someone reputable that can TIG my buddy that welds hasn't had much TIG practice yet.
Cutting up a brand new compressor housing is nerve wracking. Necessary evil lol. Don't mind me, just wasting time til my f@#$%&g caps show up Thursday. Gonna be winter before this is all sorted.
Yeah that will work great. Just make sure your diameters are correct and whatnot. Otherwise, CXRacing sells them on eBay. They sell reducing cast elbows if you need it to go from one size to another, etc.
Yeah that will work great. Just make sure your diameters are correct and whatnot. Otherwise, CXRacing sells them on eBay. They sell reducing cast elbows if you need it to go from one size to another, etc.
I think the piping to the turbo is 2.5 from the cx kit and my outlet is 2.5 so that should all work.
I'm really torn on which FFIM i want to use. This seems like one of the 'better' options but i hear the TB's are junk and id probably need like an RMR one?
Yes, hot side of the CX kit is 2.5. I needed a 3"-2.5" reducing cast coupler because of the 3" outlet in the s366.
Here is a good question...on stock GE compression and factory head studs, what is the accepted boost limit on 91-93 octane pump gas before detonation becomes an issue? What about the point at which I should be concerned about blowing a head gasket? Or running out of fuel on my 440cc injectors? I've seen 1cc=1whp capability for 2jz before but don't know if there is any truth to that. Once the trans is sorted, I don't know if I can get away with just increasing the boost until it leans out to 11.5-11.8:1 and calling it good or if something spectacularly terrible will happen first, lol...thoughts?
Yes, hot side of the CX kit is 2.5. I needed a 3"-2.5" reducing cast coupler because of the 3" outlet in the s366.
Here is a good question...on stock GE compression and factory head studs, what is the accepted boost limit on 91-93 octane pump gas before detonation becomes an issue? What about the point at which I should be concerned about blowing a head gasket? Or running out of fuel on my 440cc injectors? I've seen 1cc=1whp capability for 2jz before but don't know if there is any truth to that. Once the trans is sorted, I don't know if I can get away with just increasing the boost until it leans out to 11.5-11.8:1 and calling it good or if something spectacularly terrible will happen first, lol...thoughts?
I thought I've read the unopened GE can only do like 9-10psi but I could be wrong.
I sortof like the idea of using the XSPower intake and stock lower, my concern is bolts inside of the intake. Ali i think you ran something like this, was that a concern of yours?
I have a local aluminum welder guy now so i'm tempted to get it welded to the lower, thoughts? also the cost is CHEAP haha. Looks like id have to get a flange welded on anyway for IACV
Caps on the new ECU were also leaking and creating some weird drivability issues. I replaced the caps and had good success with that this time using no-clean solder after sending the ECU through the DI wash process and thoroughly drying it afterward.
The thing is, I still am having a weird warm restart issue. Whenever the temp gauge is any warmer than a quarter of the way up the gauge, I restart the car and have the following symptom:
-Car starts and idles down normally for 5-8 seconds
-A/F gauge goes fully lean and is accompanied by galloping ~500rpm idle. Car will not stall, and during this time will respond to throttle input and go richer as expected. If you try to drive the car during this time at a constant throttle, it goes lean. If you stab the throttle or keep on and off it, you can get the AFR to remain steady where it should be at 14.7:1 or so.
-After ~30 seconds of this odd behavior, everything goes back to normal, and the car idles and drives like nothing ever happened.
No check engine lights either. The only things I can think of are the IAC sticking open, but that would typically be accompanied by higher idle that would pop and stuff, not almost stalling. Perhaps CHT or CLT sensors are malfunctioning?
More realistically, though, I think there is an issue with ASE (after-start enrichment). Not sure how long this typically lasts, but I think this issue has something to do with crossing over from open loop to closed loop fueling. Seems like once it is in closed loop and relying more on the o2 sensor for input, things are fine.
Do you know where on the PCB itself to look for that circuitry, or what reference designator(s) to check? Now that I have a "bad" ECU and stuff I have a bunch of extra parts which I could feasibly move over to this one...Or just deal with it since 99% of the time everything is totally fine.
Note, this does not affect cold start at all or any other driving situations.
I was already planning on pulling the TB to gap down my plugs and see if my "spark blowout" issue goes away, at which point I can clean the IAC while I'm in there. I will also put dielectric grease on the contacts for the IAC and zip tie the connector in place since the latch broke...It is fully seated now and was when I checked it, but just one more thing to cross off the list. If my blowout issue doesn't go away, I'm going to assume it's detonation and make sure that I fill up with 93 next time. If it still persists, I will turn timing down to 6* as it is currently at 8*...But I like the responsiveness it has. If it doesn't go away after all that, then maybe 12psi on the s366 on pump gas wasn't to be and I need to get a lower spring. But where there is another member running 14.5-15psi on his setup on pump gas, I don't think that's the issue.
07-12-19, 03:29 PM
