NA-T Questions?? Ask the Guru
07-21-19, 01:40 PM
#391
Gapped my plugs down to .028" today along with anti seize on the plugs and dielectric grease on the plug contacts and IAC valve socket, replacing pcv to im line as well. I verified/reset timing at 7-8° (closer to 8 but hard to tell as it moves just a little). Car drives well and consistently and the weird idle seems to at least temporarily be gone. It does sometimes go leaner (16.5:1) during warm idle restarts but not the 500rpm galloping idle from before. May just be adaptive learning dialing things in, don't know. Otherwise, life is good! "Spark blowout" is just about gone, but I'll get 93 octane instead of 91 next time and verify.
07-21-19, 02:59 PM
#392
Advanced
Gapped my plugs down to .028" today along with anti seize on the plugs and dielectric grease on the plug contacts and IAC valve socket, replacing pcv to im line as well. I verified/reset timing at 7-8° (closer to 8 but hard to tell as it moves just a little). Car drives well and consistently and the weird idle seems to at least temporarily be gone. It does sometimes go leaner (16.5:1) during warm idle restarts but not the 500rpm galloping idle from before. May just be adaptive learning dialing things in, don't know. Otherwise, life is good! "Spark blowout" is just about gone, but I'll get 93 octane instead of 91 next time and verify.
07-22-19, 05:53 AM
#393
This thing just loves to disappoint. A mile away from my house on my way down a long hill, my driver's side front caliper froze. So, back home to pick up the truck, and off to Rock Auto we go. Lol. Sooner or later I'll be able to put a few miles on it without it crapping out on me.
07-22-19, 09:51 AM
#394
warm/hot restart is a known issue, it won't affect anything other than the low rpm being annoying.
gapping down to .026-.028 should help with the blow out, I would leave it at 7-8 degrees base timing, no need to go down to 6 as the plug gap is the issue not the timing.
gapping down to .026-.028 should help with the blow out, I would leave it at 7-8 degrees base timing, no need to go down to 6 as the plug gap is the issue not the timing.
07-22-19, 10:55 AM
#395
I gapped down to .028", I should have gone further but honestly if your logic is that upping the boost would lean it out and therefore make it stop blowing out then this is just a stopgap that would sacrifice power in the long run anyway--I noticed since it was almost 100* outside I was only getting 9-10psi boost and it was fully rich. The other day when I was hitting 11-12psi at 65* it was 10.2-10.5:1 and I expect when it's cooler in the fall it'll be at 13psi and 10.5:1 or leaner consistently, which is great. I'll keep the timing where it is. Do you have any idea what the boost limit for stock 10:1 head gasket/detonation on 93 octane pump gas is on this setup? I've seen others go 14psi+ but I don't know if that's playing with fire or not.
Now where's that brake caliper? lol
07-23-19, 08:09 AM
#396
Advanced
How do i put top feed injectors 14mm x 60mm in the stock GE rail? Do i need some sort of adapter like this?
whats an easy way i can hook a regulator up to the stock rail as well?'
or should i just get a rail kit like this:
whats an easy way i can hook a regulator up to the stock rail as well?'
or should i just get a rail kit like this:
Last edited by silentkill; 07-23-19 at 08:22 AM.
07-23-19, 12:07 PM
#397
Yeah with mine it isn't as bad as it was before (with the caps leaking) so it is now perfectly manageable.
I gapped down to .028", I should have gone further but honestly if your logic is that upping the boost would lean it out and therefore make it stop blowing out then this is just a stopgap that would sacrifice power in the long run anyway--I noticed since it was almost 100* outside I was only getting 9-10psi boost and it was fully rich. The other day when I was hitting 11-12psi at 65* it was 10.2-10.5:1 and I expect when it's cooler in the fall it'll be at 13psi and 10.5:1 or leaner consistently, which is great. I'll keep the timing where it is. Do you have any idea what the boost limit for stock 10:1 head gasket/detonation on 93 octane pump gas is on this setup? I've seen others go 14psi+ but I don't know if that's playing with fire or not.
Now where's that brake caliper? lol
I gapped down to .028", I should have gone further but honestly if your logic is that upping the boost would lean it out and therefore make it stop blowing out then this is just a stopgap that would sacrifice power in the long run anyway--I noticed since it was almost 100* outside I was only getting 9-10psi boost and it was fully rich. The other day when I was hitting 11-12psi at 65* it was 10.2-10.5:1 and I expect when it's cooler in the fall it'll be at 13psi and 10.5:1 or leaner consistently, which is great. I'll keep the timing where it is. Do you have any idea what the boost limit for stock 10:1 head gasket/detonation on 93 octane pump gas is on this setup? I've seen others go 14psi+ but I don't know if that's playing with fire or not.
Now where's that brake caliper? lol
The opposite is true when its hot out, which is a time that running on the edge of your boost limit could come back to bite you.
I don't know exactly where the limit is on stock compression on that setup, everyone's setups and engine health are a little different.
That being said, 14 psi is probably within reach but I wouldn't go above that without monitoring knock on a dyno etc... basically staying below the GTE ecu's factory boost cut is not a bad idea (@14.5 psi or so at sea level).
And with that compression you will not want to dip below an 11 AFR. basically the more you push it the more you increase the "chance" of detonation, and detonation is what will blow the motor.
With a tt headgasket I would run down to 12-12.5 AFR for max torque, but I would not recommend that on stock compression, you need that extra fuel to cool the cylinder down and prevent detonation.
The factory ecu will not get that lean anyways until you crank the boost up or pull fuel out (which I do not recommend unless for a straight injector change).
you can tap the stock fuel rail for a line to a regulator, or you can use an aftermarket rail.
really depends on if you want or need an aftermarket regulator, like if you are going really large on the fuel feed and return lines.
If you are still going to be using the stock fuel lines, really all you need to do is get 11mm injectors and drop them in.
07-23-19, 12:13 PM
#398
Advanced
There are alot of factors into the max boost you can run. you will find that you are getting more power and boosting better on cooler days, air intake temps, everything across the board works better in the cold.
The opposite is true when its hot out, which is a time that running on the edge of your boost limit could come back to bite you.
I don't know exactly where the limit is on stock compression on that setup, everyone's setups and engine health are a little different.
That being said, 14 psi is probably within reach but I wouldn't go above that without monitoring knock on a dyno etc... basically staying below the GTE ecu's factory boost cut is not a bad idea (@14.5 psi or so at sea level).
And with that compression you will not want to dip below an 11 AFR. basically the more you push it the more you increase the "chance" of detonation, and detonation is what will blow the motor.
With a tt headgasket I would run down to 12-12.5 AFR for max torque, but I would not recommend that on stock compression, you need that extra fuel to cool the cylinder down and prevent detonation.
The factory ecu will not get that lean anyways until you crank the boost up or pull fuel out (which I do not recommend unless for a straight injector change).
you need adapters for 14mm injectors. they also make 11mm injectors that will fit the stock rail.
you can tap the stock fuel rail for a line to a regulator, or you can use an aftermarket rail.
really depends on if you want or need an aftermarket regulator, like if you are going really large on the fuel feed and return lines.
If you are still going to be using the stock fuel lines, really all you need to do is get 11mm injectors and drop them in.
The opposite is true when its hot out, which is a time that running on the edge of your boost limit could come back to bite you.
I don't know exactly where the limit is on stock compression on that setup, everyone's setups and engine health are a little different.
That being said, 14 psi is probably within reach but I wouldn't go above that without monitoring knock on a dyno etc... basically staying below the GTE ecu's factory boost cut is not a bad idea (@14.5 psi or so at sea level).
And with that compression you will not want to dip below an 11 AFR. basically the more you push it the more you increase the "chance" of detonation, and detonation is what will blow the motor.
With a tt headgasket I would run down to 12-12.5 AFR for max torque, but I would not recommend that on stock compression, you need that extra fuel to cool the cylinder down and prevent detonation.
The factory ecu will not get that lean anyways until you crank the boost up or pull fuel out (which I do not recommend unless for a straight injector change).
you need adapters for 14mm injectors. they also make 11mm injectors that will fit the stock rail.
you can tap the stock fuel rail for a line to a regulator, or you can use an aftermarket rail.
really depends on if you want or need an aftermarket regulator, like if you are going really large on the fuel feed and return lines.
If you are still going to be using the stock fuel lines, really all you need to do is get 11mm injectors and drop them in.
Looks like they do have 11mm of this:
I would still need an adapter to run these in the stock lower intake i believe since the stock ones taper out correct? Or am i reading this correctly online that 11mm will work for the lower intake and i just need a top feed rail that matches
I might just buy a rail so i can route a regulator and have the engine bay side of things done for the future.
Last edited by silentkill; 07-23-19 at 12:30 PM.
07-23-19, 05:47 PM
#399
14psi or less, and 11:1afr or richer targets. Gotcha. Realistically, I'll leave it on WG pressure which appears to be 9.5-11.5 depending on IATs, but will likely come up to 13psi in colder weather (if my clutch lasts that long). My caliper is due in tomorrow and its already almost totally disassembled...chomping at the bit to drive again!
07-24-19, 09:07 AM
#400
600 on e85 will require a good amount of flow, so going to an aftermarket rail is not a bad idea.
The 11mm is the "denso" size which is the size of the hole in the stock fuel rail.
Most aftermarket fuel rails and injectors use the "domestic size" or 14mm on the top.
The bottom is the same size across all the 2jz's and 7m's etc.. so injectors for toyota's and supras should have the right length/bottom size already.
just make sure you match the injector size to the fuel rail you plan to use.
With future E85 plans, not a bad idea to go aftermarket 14mm injectors and rail and run an aftermarket regulator. You will get the best fuel flow that way.
Also consider what engine management you will use, if you will use one that supports flex fuel its not a bad idea to put a flex fuel sensor on the return line so it can adjust for different e85 mixes on the fly (otherwise you have to tune conservatively for an average mix).
Polaris, I would leave it where it is while you iron out the kinks, the stock clutch probably wont take much more for very long.
When the time comes I would suggest using a manual boost controller, the ball and spring kind not the electronic stuff, and set it to 13-14 psi on a cold day (right before boost cut).
You will gain spool under the curve due to the manual boost controller, and it will hold that 13-14 psi. running just off the wastegate will loose power due to boost creep, you will notice the difference after you put the MBC in and its super easy to do.
I say do it on a cold day so on a warm day you will be slightly under that, and on a cold day you wont hit boost cut. you can dial it in over time, but that is a good place to start.
Also in general if you guys haven't looked into a set of ls400 calipers, add it to the list of things to do. The SC really needs those larger calipers when going turbo, the stock brakes will heat soak after a couple fast stops.
The ls400 ones stopping power is way better than the stock stuff, even with EBC pads on the stock calipers. just keep an eye out for a set they get parted out all the time. I got a set on ebay once also that worked just fine.
The 11mm is the "denso" size which is the size of the hole in the stock fuel rail.
Most aftermarket fuel rails and injectors use the "domestic size" or 14mm on the top.
The bottom is the same size across all the 2jz's and 7m's etc.. so injectors for toyota's and supras should have the right length/bottom size already.
just make sure you match the injector size to the fuel rail you plan to use.
With future E85 plans, not a bad idea to go aftermarket 14mm injectors and rail and run an aftermarket regulator. You will get the best fuel flow that way.
Also consider what engine management you will use, if you will use one that supports flex fuel its not a bad idea to put a flex fuel sensor on the return line so it can adjust for different e85 mixes on the fly (otherwise you have to tune conservatively for an average mix).
Polaris, I would leave it where it is while you iron out the kinks, the stock clutch probably wont take much more for very long.
When the time comes I would suggest using a manual boost controller, the ball and spring kind not the electronic stuff, and set it to 13-14 psi on a cold day (right before boost cut).
You will gain spool under the curve due to the manual boost controller, and it will hold that 13-14 psi. running just off the wastegate will loose power due to boost creep, you will notice the difference after you put the MBC in and its super easy to do.
I say do it on a cold day so on a warm day you will be slightly under that, and on a cold day you wont hit boost cut. you can dial it in over time, but that is a good place to start.
Also in general if you guys haven't looked into a set of ls400 calipers, add it to the list of things to do. The SC really needs those larger calipers when going turbo, the stock brakes will heat soak after a couple fast stops.
The ls400 ones stopping power is way better than the stock stuff, even with EBC pads on the stock calipers. just keep an eye out for a set they get parted out all the time. I got a set on ebay once also that worked just fine.
07-24-19, 09:12 AM
#401
Advanced
600 on e85 will require a good amount of flow, so going to an aftermarket rail is not a bad idea.
The 11mm is the "denso" size which is the size of the hole in the stock fuel rail.
Most aftermarket fuel rails and injectors use the "domestic size" or 14mm on the top.
The bottom is the same size across all the 2jz's and 7m's etc.. so injectors for toyota's and supras should have the right length/bottom size already.
just make sure you match the injector size to the fuel rail you plan to use.
With future E85 plans, not a bad idea to go aftermarket 14mm injectors and rail and run an aftermarket regulator. You will get the best fuel flow that way.
Also consider what engine management you will use, if you will use one that supports flex fuel its not a bad idea to put a flex fuel sensor on the return line so it can adjust for different e85 mixes on the fly (otherwise you have to tune conservatively for an average mix).
Polaris, I would leave it where it is while you iron out the kinks, the stock clutch probably wont take much more for very long.
When the time comes I would suggest using a manual boost controller, the ball and spring kind not the electronic stuff, and set it to 13-14 psi on a cold day (right before boost cut).
You will gain spool under the curve due to the manual boost controller, and it will hold that 13-14 psi. running just off the wastegate will loose power due to boost creep, you will notice the difference after you put the MBC in and its super easy to do.
I say do it on a cold day so on a warm day you will be slightly under that, and on a cold day you wont hit boost cut. you can dial it in over time, but that is a good place to start.
Also in general if you guys haven't looked into a set of ls400 calipers, add it to the list of things to do. The SC really needs those larger calipers when going turbo, the stock brakes will heat soak after a couple fast stops.
The ls400 ones stopping power is way better than the stock stuff, even with EBC pads on the stock calipers. just keep an eye out for a set they get parted out all the time. I got a set on ebay once also that worked just fine.
The 11mm is the "denso" size which is the size of the hole in the stock fuel rail.
Most aftermarket fuel rails and injectors use the "domestic size" or 14mm on the top.
The bottom is the same size across all the 2jz's and 7m's etc.. so injectors for toyota's and supras should have the right length/bottom size already.
just make sure you match the injector size to the fuel rail you plan to use.
With future E85 plans, not a bad idea to go aftermarket 14mm injectors and rail and run an aftermarket regulator. You will get the best fuel flow that way.
Also consider what engine management you will use, if you will use one that supports flex fuel its not a bad idea to put a flex fuel sensor on the return line so it can adjust for different e85 mixes on the fly (otherwise you have to tune conservatively for an average mix).
Polaris, I would leave it where it is while you iron out the kinks, the stock clutch probably wont take much more for very long.
When the time comes I would suggest using a manual boost controller, the ball and spring kind not the electronic stuff, and set it to 13-14 psi on a cold day (right before boost cut).
You will gain spool under the curve due to the manual boost controller, and it will hold that 13-14 psi. running just off the wastegate will loose power due to boost creep, you will notice the difference after you put the MBC in and its super easy to do.
I say do it on a cold day so on a warm day you will be slightly under that, and on a cold day you wont hit boost cut. you can dial it in over time, but that is a good place to start.
Also in general if you guys haven't looked into a set of ls400 calipers, add it to the list of things to do. The SC really needs those larger calipers when going turbo, the stock brakes will heat soak after a couple fast stops.
The ls400 ones stopping power is way better than the stock stuff, even with EBC pads on the stock calipers. just keep an eye out for a set they get parted out all the time. I got a set on ebay once also that worked just fine.
As for engine management i have ECUMaster Black Emu which supports flex fuel. Thanks for clearing up the injector stuff for me. Do you have an idea of how i can hook up an AN line to the stock hard line for now? (i plan to upgrade to -8 feed when i do the e upgrade down the road.) but id like to get it all running and iron some bugs out this year on LOW boost. Also what about hooking up to the return to AN like as that stock looks like a rubber line and clamp.
Do i need a fuel pulse damper?
Last edited by silentkill; 07-24-19 at 09:25 AM.
07-24-19, 09:25 AM
#402
feed line you can probably get a metric to AN adapter depending on which way you are adapting not really sure what combo you are talking about.
the stock fuel return is a rubber hose to a metal hardline, generally you would run a new return line all the way to the tank or reuse the stock feed line as the return line when you run a new feed line.
the stock fuel return is a rubber hose to a metal hardline, generally you would run a new return line all the way to the tank or reuse the stock feed line as the return line when you run a new feed line.
07-24-19, 09:30 AM
#403
600 on e85 will require a good amount of flow, so going to an aftermarket rail is not a bad idea.
The 11mm is the "denso" size which is the size of the hole in the stock fuel rail.
Most aftermarket fuel rails and injectors use the "domestic size" or 14mm on the top.
The bottom is the same size across all the 2jz's and 7m's etc.. so injectors for toyota's and supras should have the right length/bottom size already.
just make sure you match the injector size to the fuel rail you plan to use.
With future E85 plans, not a bad idea to go aftermarket 14mm injectors and rail and run an aftermarket regulator. You will get the best fuel flow that way.
Also consider what engine management you will use, if you will use one that supports flex fuel its not a bad idea to put a flex fuel sensor on the return line so it can adjust for different e85 mixes on the fly (otherwise you have to tune conservatively for an average mix).
Polaris, I would leave it where it is while you iron out the kinks, the stock clutch probably wont take much more for very long.
When the time comes I would suggest using a manual boost controller, the ball and spring kind not the electronic stuff, and set it to 13-14 psi on a cold day (right before boost cut).
You will gain spool under the curve due to the manual boost controller, and it will hold that 13-14 psi. running just off the wastegate will loose power due to boost creep, you will notice the difference after you put the MBC in and its super easy to do.
I say do it on a cold day so on a warm day you will be slightly under that, and on a cold day you wont hit boost cut. you can dial it in over time, but that is a good place to start.
Also in general if you guys haven't looked into a set of ls400 calipers, add it to the list of things to do. The SC really needs those larger calipers when going turbo, the stock brakes will heat soak after a couple fast stops.
The ls400 ones stopping power is way better than the stock stuff, even with EBC pads on the stock calipers. just keep an eye out for a set they get parted out all the time. I got a set on ebay once also that worked just fine.
The 11mm is the "denso" size which is the size of the hole in the stock fuel rail.
Most aftermarket fuel rails and injectors use the "domestic size" or 14mm on the top.
The bottom is the same size across all the 2jz's and 7m's etc.. so injectors for toyota's and supras should have the right length/bottom size already.
just make sure you match the injector size to the fuel rail you plan to use.
With future E85 plans, not a bad idea to go aftermarket 14mm injectors and rail and run an aftermarket regulator. You will get the best fuel flow that way.
Also consider what engine management you will use, if you will use one that supports flex fuel its not a bad idea to put a flex fuel sensor on the return line so it can adjust for different e85 mixes on the fly (otherwise you have to tune conservatively for an average mix).
Polaris, I would leave it where it is while you iron out the kinks, the stock clutch probably wont take much more for very long.
When the time comes I would suggest using a manual boost controller, the ball and spring kind not the electronic stuff, and set it to 13-14 psi on a cold day (right before boost cut).
You will gain spool under the curve due to the manual boost controller, and it will hold that 13-14 psi. running just off the wastegate will loose power due to boost creep, you will notice the difference after you put the MBC in and its super easy to do.
I say do it on a cold day so on a warm day you will be slightly under that, and on a cold day you wont hit boost cut. you can dial it in over time, but that is a good place to start.
Also in general if you guys haven't looked into a set of ls400 calipers, add it to the list of things to do. The SC really needs those larger calipers when going turbo, the stock brakes will heat soak after a couple fast stops.
The ls400 ones stopping power is way better than the stock stuff, even with EBC pads on the stock calipers. just keep an eye out for a set they get parted out all the time. I got a set on ebay once also that worked just fine.
I was disappointed when my caliper started sticking as I was planning (and still am) on doing the LS400 brake swap...Just $50 further away from being able to now lol. At this point I gotta do the door pin on the driver's side as well as a AR-5 swap and BBK from the LS400...Sounds like $2,500 I'd be happy to spend but don't currently have. All in due time.
07-24-19, 09:33 AM
#404
Advanced
feed line you can probably get a metric to AN adapter depending on which way you are adapting not really sure what combo you are talking about.
the stock fuel return is a rubber hose to a metal hardline, generally you would run a new return line all the way to the tank or reuse the stock feed line as the return line when you run a new feed line.
the stock fuel return is a rubber hose to a metal hardline, generally you would run a new return line all the way to the tank or reuse the stock feed line as the return line when you run a new feed line.
07-24-19, 01:07 PM
#405
It's always tough to plan for current and future setups at the same time. If you can and are 100% sure you will do the future setup, then just go ahead and over build it now.
if you don't you will be doing work twice, and if you do do it and you don't end up going e85 then you have done a bunch of work you didnt need to, as 1000cc 11mm injectors will drop into the stock fuel rail and work with the stock lines up to 500 on pump gas. you don't even have to remove the fuel damper if its working, but changing the fuel filter is not a bad idea.
if you don't you will be doing work twice, and if you do do it and you don't end up going e85 then you have done a bunch of work you didnt need to, as 1000cc 11mm injectors will drop into the stock fuel rail and work with the stock lines up to 500 on pump gas. you don't even have to remove the fuel damper if its working, but changing the fuel filter is not a bad idea.