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Yeah my thought was I may be able to get the same amount of peak power on stock compression and 15-16psi with meth (and bigger than 440cc injectors if necessary to reach that boost ceiling) as I would with studs and a TT hg on 19-20psi which I understand is about the max boost the stock ecu and map will interpret). The point of compression you would drop to run more boost would result in slower spool though I don't know by how much. Plus iats would be lower with less boost, lowering chances of detonation. Maybe bypassing the tb with the coolant hose would help as well but I just concerned about the tb icing up.
You can probably get close with methanol, I don't think that is a bad idea if you can get the right quality and have a solid kit with the warning light etc.. that can be pretty consistent.
Its pretty easy to install the methanol kit but installing a tt headgasket and arp studs isn't that much harder and probably a similar cost.
Really 9.2:1 isn't lowering the compression a huge amount but it helps, also its debatable whether the mutli-layer gasket design itself is better in this situation than a single layer as it can probably handle more variances while still sealing, and these heads do tend to have variances over time but not so much the block.
I have no experience with mixing fuels like you are talking about, I basically am thinking its like running race gas all the time which could work but may not be practical to do all the time and mixing adds more variances.
Originally Posted by silentkill
My thoughts exactly, see how it does and dial the car in, if i need to change it up oh well.
Yeah you are pretty close so I wouldn't go back at this point, its not that hard to change the housings later anyways.
And alot of people do a lot of highway driving, and with the right gearing those setups can still be very fun, so see which one you like first.
Originally Posted by quick16tt
Ali I remember reading somewhere about a possible bypass to the rev limiter on the stock ecu. Is this possible as the only other options are G-Force Ecu’s or Standalone.
Don't remember seeing that one. I don't think you can do that without opening up the ecu, which is why people prefer the manual ecu's that have a little higher rev limit.
Yeah I wouldn't use that as a reason to run more boost just further detonation protection. And yeah I have had a stage 2 snow performance kit with controller and I was running a 50 50 mix of pure methanol and distilled water with 8oz of nitro per gallon of mix. Had the 7qt trunk mounted reservoir so it lasted forever. If it runs out just turn the boost down or use some washer fluid as a temp source. If you have the low level light you can mount it wherever and can prob wire in a extra safety for pump power too. Washer fluid is not as effective since its more like 70% water though.
Off topic but check out this slick adapter I found. BSPT to -4an with 1/8npt center section. Threaded in the is300 union perfect and my sensor for my autometer landed in a great spot.
I got a similar one of those adapters but for a 3AN. Should clean things up nicely.
Sounds like you are talking about the factory oil pressure sensor, when they went vvti it moved to the union bolt and the old spot got used for the vvti oil line feed.
Lots of ways to do it but generally any way you can crank it without starting it up, I think you can pull the main EFI fuse in the fuse box and should still crank but ecu won't turn on.
You don't have an ignitor in your setup to disconnect but you can pull the coil connectors or injector connectors if that doesn't work (can't hydrolock it without injectors firing).
I got a similar one of those adapters but for a 3AN. Should clean things up nicely.
Sounds like you are talking about the factory oil pressure sensor, when they went vvti it moved to the union bolt and the old spot got used for the vvti oil line feed.
Lots of ways to do it but generally any way you can crank it without starting it up, I think you can pull the main EFI fuse in the fuse box and should still crank but ecu won't turn on.
You don't have an ignitor in your setup to disconnect but you can pull the coil connectors or injector connectors if that doesn't work (can't hydrolock it without injectors firing).
I was able to get that sensor plugged in by unbolting the compressor a bit.
I was thinking of just unplugging coils and inj's as mentioned. thanks.
I was able to "test" my coils using the ecu and they make a spark noise but i saw no spark, so i hope these aren't dead coils or my wiring isn't right. It's likely i don't have the dwell setup correctly in the tune though.
There isn't a crazy amount of info out there on that but the person who made the most power on vvti coils that I know is Motorheaddown.
If you see his posts around supraforums pay attention, he figured out alot of the na-t and vvti coil stuff by scratch and would also share it.
I learned how to tune the ACIS on a standalone from reading his posts, its all good stuff and I have found all his info to be spot on and not regurgitated information.
You have probably seen one of his setups on youtube without knowing it. Most people would swap to sequential coils (IGN, LS, etc..) to make big power, he hit 900 on vvti coils by using math!!
Thanks! that will help me dial it in. I just have seen other people do coil tests with my ecu that emit a visible spark, which mine is lacking, i hear it but don't see it arc.
This is from the 2jz base tune, though i'm pretty sure this might be the data for TT coils in sequential setup.
Yeah from what motorhead posted that 2.5ms that tapers down should be pretty safe.
I think he was trying to say you can keep it lower than that at lower rpm's, and higher at peak torque, and then taper back down at higher rpm.
When you get a proper tune it will become obvious where your peak torque is when looking at your fuel/timing maps.
I want to say I ran a similar number all across the board when I was on the aem, and it wasn't that different than what it was for a tt or sequential coils.
How are you testing the coil? to get a good arc you have to hold it near something that is properly grounded.
If you are using the engine maybe check the grounds, you will be surprised how many people remove the intake plenum ground from the lower manifold when pulling the upper manifold to install a FFIM, and then completely forget to attach it back to the lower manifold.
I think there is another ground on the rear of the passenger side of the cylinder head, and probably a few others but those are usually the problem ones as the first people forget, and the one by the exhaust can get brittle and crack from exhaust heat and just moving it a little bit can cause it have a bad connection.
Other than that maybe its in the settings? haven't really tried a coil test before but I have seen people generally test for spark like that.
The only other thing I can think of is that you are getting rid of the ignitor. On most of the setups with the vvti coils or toyota coils, they usually keep the toyota ignitor in the loop and it has its own logic, so yours may differ a little bit.
Yeah from what motorhead posted that 2.5ms that tapers down should be pretty safe.
I think he was trying to say you can keep it lower than that at lower rpm's, and higher at peak torque, and then taper back down at higher rpm.
When you get a proper tune it will become obvious where your peak torque is when looking at your fuel/timing maps.
I want to say I ran a similar number all across the board when I was on the aem, and it wasn't that different than what it was for a tt or sequential coils.
How are you testing the coil? to get a good arc you have to hold it near something that is properly grounded.
If you are using the engine maybe check the grounds, you will be surprised how many people remove the intake plenum ground from the lower manifold when pulling the upper manifold to install a FFIM, and then completely forget to attach it back to the lower manifold.
I think there is another ground on the rear of the passenger side of the cylinder head, and probably a few others but those are usually the problem ones as the first people forget, and the one by the exhaust can get brittle and crack from exhaust heat and just moving it a little bit can cause it have a bad connection.
Other than that maybe its in the settings? haven't really tried a coil test before but I have seen people generally test for spark like that.
The only other thing I can think of is that you are getting rid of the ignitor. On most of the setups with the vvti coils or toyota coils, they usually keep the toyota ignitor in the loop and it has its own logic, so yours may differ a little bit.
I didn't try to arc it to anything grounded, i just had it sitting on the valve cover. I'll try and touch the engine next time.
I actually ran into the ground under the intake when trying to power up my ecu for the first time, that ground is important in grounding the ECU circuit.
Yes, that is the correct orientation if your hand is the intake.
The check valve sits in the lip and gets sandwiched in there by the IACV.
If it was the other way it would get sucked into the intake and into the engine at some point.
08-16-19, 02:00 PM
