silentkill

i was reading some posts from you Ali on PCV/Catch can setups. Do you still recommend the dual filter setup like you ran and no can for the 500hp or less range?
I'll get a catch can eventually but i want a quality unit like radium's or something.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I pretty much always tap the valve covers for the NPT fitting, so you can run the NPT to hose barb for the filters, or NPT to AN when you decide to go to a can.
You can even put the stock o-ring for the PCV back over the threads once they are tapped for stock like operation. So I usually just go ahead and tap them no matter what I do.

But yeah the straight filters should be fine for most TT ecu mod setups. Some people's engines have more blow by than others, usually goes with mileage/shape so if that happens then just run the can.
With the amount of mileage and the way your block looked from the pics, I don't think you will have very much blowby at all.

Be careful with the shavings when working with the GE valve covers. They are magnesium and really easy to tap, but they are flammable so be careful, have a bucket or something to catch them in.
If it does catch on fire do not pour water on it, that is the worst thing you can do. I have never had it come close to happening but it is worth mentioning I feel. Toyota and their quest for weight savings...

silentkill

Wow i had no idea those were magnesium! I wish i would have done this before i FIPG'd the valve covers down haha.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yeah the TT ones are Aluminum but the GE are Mg. FIPG will make a mess, just use the regular rubber valve cover gaskets they work well on the 2jz.

silentkill

I just FIPG the front corners where the manual called for it. Shouldn't be too bad. I have new rubber gaskets.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Oh right, I thought you meant the whole thing for a minute whoops

silentkill

gosh no haha i had to remove the pan once after applying that stuff and holy crap that stuff is INSANE.

Side note: i find it hilarious that almost anything SC related i look up ends up on a CL or SF post with you replying on it lol

Polarisman

Here's a quick question (related as many of us will go with the TT HG or at least studs during the process). I don't have the valve cover off or anything in front of me...Is it necessary to remove the cams to do the head studs? I'm sure it is but hopefully not just because the timing was just done on my car prior to my ownership. Popped into my head as I was watching that racing channel and it appears on the 4g63 you can at least retorque them just by removing the valve cover...Not sure about the entire installation.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

hahah, that is pretty hilarious. Even more hilarious is when I forget the stuff I wrote and then look it up and find myself answering my own question

I am 95% sure that you can't do that on the JZ motors, the headstuds are a little to the side of the cam, but not enough to be able to fit the socket past them or into the very very small opening toyota leaves you to get to the headstud.
As it is, even with the cam's removed, I have a special narrow socket that I have to use to get them on and off, a regular one won't even get down there so any slight angle and it won't work either.

Timing is just lining all the marks up on these motors, its the easiest part of the process, you will be fine. I usually just go on the tighter end of the torque specs and skip the re-torque.

silentkill

I concur with needing to take the cams out, I ironically found a 12pt harley davidson branded socket to-do my ARP studs in my toolbox. (i've never had a harley i found a set in a car i bought years ago)

Polarisman

Works for me, thanks. At some point I'll need to do valve stem seals too as I noticed a little oil smoke after idle for a while so I'll eventually just pull it and deal with it.

Good news, the Facebook warriors have spoken and one guy running a setup nearly identical to mine (only treadstone cast mani to my cx tubular) is at 402whp at 14psi on stock compression, crossover im, etc on pump gas. He stepped up to a s369, BC 264 cams and a couple more goodies and is shooting for 500whp on pump gas and stock compression, etc. Should be interesting!

silentkill

I was going to run the stock crossover intake until i took it off and i vowed to never want to install that again, it's laying in the corner of my shop getting stepped on now lol

suprasoup

I would be interested in knowing what injectors he plans on running and what tuning device. I'm going to attempt to reach 500whp on stock tt ecu but gotta work out some other things first. I'll be adding a 4" Downpipe & Mid pipe to my setup soon so it should help me reach that goal as well. I'll keep ya'll posted when I get some #'s.

silentkill

i think you can hit 500's on 3" down, anything past 550-600+ i think is where you'd want that 4" at least from what induction told me.

When i get to that point i will be doing full 4" with an HKS titanium (i got dreams ok)

Polarisman

Yeah I think he plans on running 550cc injectors and S-AFC or similar. But I think his goal was to show what the stock bottom end/head/gasket was capable of. Not sure if he is freshening up the gasket and adding ARPs for added insurance or not. Either way I love it when other people push the limits lol...My pockets aren't deep enough for that, but I'm an OK chef if all I have to do is follow a recipe and I get 90% of the taste of the real thing.