silentkill

Thats awesome! feels good when you figure stuff out!

I just saw someone list a build on a SC3 online in my area with a nearly identical setup to mine with GE w/ TT HG and studs, xs intake, injectors, pump, r154. He had a -6 feed and flex fuel on e85 and produced about 610hp/595tq. was great to see this combo could be powerful someday!

the goal is to beat my friends 500+hp drag chevelle at a local event haha

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yeah I would run the best gas you can get at this point, you don't have a lot of wiggle room for bad fuel at that compression.
Your AFR and everything sound good so far, just make sure it stays richer than 12.
Once you get the MBC dialed in that boost will hit sooner too.

Silent, as you learned that is the usual recipe for na-t, and when you are ready for E85 its just a fuel system and tune away.
You should be able to get close to 500 on pump, but I dunno about beating a 500+hp drag chevelle unless you have everything dialed in and its at least a quarter mile race

silentkill

haha i'll never get a dig on him, it hooks hard.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Probably not without a lot more stuff like antilag, lsd, and some meaty tires. If it's set up for drag though (powerglide/th400), it's probably geared up and won't do that well toward the end, which is where the 2JZ shines once you hit your powerband in 4th (3rd is ok too).
You may be able to wind it out and maybe beat him.. unless you have to make another shift. Once you make a few runs you will have a better feel for what rear end ratio you want. With the R154 I would go lower on the rear end so you can finish that run in 4th.

silentkill

I'm getting my base tune ready for first start. I am questioning what the fuel pressure will be with the stock regulator with upgraded pump and injectors. Should i expect like 43.5 still?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Never checked it, should hold the stock pressure just fine I would think unless you are outflowing the return line, which shouldn't happen with the stock feed line.

silentkill

Awesome thanks.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Just be sure not to go too aggressive on the timing until you get it tuned. Na-t even with a tt headgasket won't like as much timing in the lower load areas compared to a gte engine. try and find a na-t basemap if possible or pull some timing out of a gte one.

silentkill

I'm going to get it started then get a professional to tune it. Haha I'm not "amazing" at tuning so I don't mind paying someone. I attempted to tune my old Subaru and got it close but I could never get it 100% until a pro touched it.

So I got my injectors and walbro in the tank, primes up and no leaks front to back but when I key off it sounds like the pump is turning on and off repeatedly, ideas? Is it just because I can't hear the stock one and the big boy is loudish?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

The high flow pumps are definately louder and you will hear them unless you have a full tank of gas, which you will still hear some of it.
The ecu turns on the pump unless you changed the wiring, so if you have the new ecu plugged in then check the fuel pump output settings to make sure its setup right and not cycling it a bunch.
Generally it should prime and then stop until you start the car up if its on stock like wiring and connected to an ecu doing that. some ecu's don't prime, there are usually settings you can change.

silentkill

There aren't any cycle settings, it's just a After start, which output and invert output.

Also the plug and play adapter has it wired up so 12v switched and constant are paired to the 12v switched so when i key off the ecu has no power.

The symptom is identical to when i missed a ground up front, i wonder if i missed the second under intake ground, i'll review later when i get back to it but as you said the ecu should be turning on the pump that is how it's wired.. haha

after further research pretty sure i'd have to configure PWM output to the FP Ecu and i dont feel like dicking with that so i'll just replace the thing with a relay and proper sized wiring. Walbro recommends larger wiring for the 450 anyway.

My chevelle buddy has a bunch of relays for me so we'll get to cracking on that and i ordered a wiring bulkhead to pass the larger wires through the top hat.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Yeah, that would simplify it some. basically it would be like the 12v fuel mod but using a relay triggered by your new ecu which can be a ground trigger.
Some of the ecu's come setup to work with the factory fuel ecu, but alot of people just bypass them as it is possible for them to fail eventually with the higher amps.

Enjoying the na-t learning curve yet?
It's not too late to drop in a gte and order something plug and play

silentkill

Thought has crossed my mind lol. I have somehow goofed my wiring and I haven't been able to figure it out. Two issues I'm encountering:
Plug in IACV, key on, key off, ecu stays powered on
TPS pigtail now has no voltage.

Only changes I did since I last tried these two things are install the FP which is now unplugged so that shouldn't matter. And I wired up the tach wire to the 8th pin on the orange plug. I've now got my harness all ripped open and I'm not seeing anything out of the ordinary.

I plugged in the iacv a few times key off and the ****in ecu powered on, WHAT

Shame as I'm literally ready to start the pig

silentkill

Welp figured out both wiring issues, one was my fault. The IACV I had to pull the center pins due to the way the standalone works with unipolar stepper motor. I read that motec or something also does the same stuff. Either way that works, I got the whole car assembled then topped coolant off and I got a couple leaks so I'll wait till tomorrow, fix those up and go through the start up steps, check base timing etc. *fingers crossed nothing explodes*

Polarisman

^^Good luck buddy! I'm loving mine right now...Can't get enough of the turbo 2j.