NA-T Questions?? Ask the Guru
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RudysSC (04-03-20)
04-03-20, 03:19 PM
#708
That is normal before you turn up the boost, the factory keeps it super rich. What boost are you running?
I do generally crank it up until it leans out to the 11's close to 12 afr. It should make more power there and pull smoother also.
You might need a bcc and I always recommend having a boost controller in the loop even if you aren't cranking it up they usually help with spool.
I do generally crank it up until it leans out to the 11's close to 12 afr. It should make more power there and pull smoother also.
You might need a bcc and I always recommend having a boost controller in the loop even if you aren't cranking it up they usually help with spool.
04-06-20, 08:58 AM
#710
I used a knockoff wastegate for a while, as long as its working reliably (always doing the same thing) its fine.
I don't think you can get the greddy one anymore but they have new ones available online at various stores, or check on supraforums classifieds.
If you do decide to get a piggyback some of them have that feature also, even with the basic ones if you are going to 550's and use a piggy that will raise your boost cut some also cause it lowers the map signal.
I don't think you can get the greddy one anymore but they have new ones available online at various stores, or check on supraforums classifieds.
If you do decide to get a piggyback some of them have that feature also, even with the basic ones if you are going to 550's and use a piggy that will raise your boost cut some also cause it lowers the map signal.
04-17-20, 12:41 PM
#711
Need help figuring out this erratic idle.
*edit I figured it out. I guess when I swapped ECUs I forgot to check the timing. Can’t forget that step.
Doesn’t run lean after completely warmed up, but afer a couple of pulls it starts running very lean and erratic. No cel and I also put a jumper between B+ and FP in the diagnostic box, but same result. I’m thinking it could be...
1. the ecu
2. my TPS hasn’t been calibratedor
3. because I’m still using the OEM SC fuel pump.
4. Timing issue
Mods: Aristo ECU, 440cc injectors, DS62 igniter w/, coil packs, q45 throttle body with OEM tps
*edit I figured it out. I guess when I swapped ECUs I forgot to check the timing. Can’t forget that step.
Doesn’t run lean after completely warmed up, but afer a couple of pulls it starts running very lean and erratic. No cel and I also put a jumper between B+ and FP in the diagnostic box, but same result. I’m thinking it could be...
1. the ecu
2. my TPS hasn’t been calibratedor
3. because I’m still using the OEM SC fuel pump.
4. Timing issue
Mods: Aristo ECU, 440cc injectors, DS62 igniter w/, coil packs, q45 throttle body with OEM tps
Last edited by joe diego; 04-18-20 at 12:04 PM.
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silentkill (04-20-20)
04-21-20, 03:10 PM
#713
Advanced
Hey Ali,
Can i use a GTE oil pump + my non vvti head?
I guess my question lies is if it will matter to run the GTE crank timing pulley on there, still using distributor for crank/cam if that would matter at all. Wouldn't think it would.
Ill see if my pulley fits, though im guessing it really doesn't matter if you are using the dizzy for crank/cam.
Mistakes were made and now im using my new shortblock lol
Can i use a GTE oil pump + my non vvti head?
I guess my question lies is if it will matter to run the GTE crank timing pulley on there, still using distributor for crank/cam if that would matter at all. Wouldn't think it would.
Ill see if my pulley fits, though im guessing it really doesn't matter if you are using the dizzy for crank/cam.
Mistakes were made and now im using my new shortblock lol
Last edited by silentkill; 04-21-20 at 06:54 PM.
04-22-20, 07:45 AM
#714
uh oh that doesn't sounds bueno. what new shortblock, gte or ge? 
the distributor is driven off the exhaust cam gear so nothing to do with the crank sensor or oil pump etc...
even on non vvti setups, I usually install the ge vvti oil pump and throw a vvti crank gear and crank sensor on there in case I ever go vvti I can just plug it in.
you could also instead put the 12 tooth gte non vvti wheel in there as a backup crank sensor, and standalones tend to pick that one up than the distributor signal.
or you can leave whatever oil pump is on there and just use the distributor.
gte oil pump and ge oil pump are pretty interchangeable, but the gte one has more oil pressure for oil squirters and the spot for the crank sensor.
if you just want the spot for the crank sensor on a ge block use the vvti ge oil pump for proper oil pressure and the crank sensor spot.
Some people run the gte oil pump on ge blocks just fine, others keep having front main seal issues puking oil.
That is why I generally say match pump to block. if you have a gte block you should use the gte pump for sure.
the actual stock crank pulleys are the same size and fit wise between ge and gte, you should be able to bolt it right on no problem.
you can put a 12 tooth or 36-2 tooth wheel behind either for the crank sensor pickup, or leave it empty like a non vvti ge.
Ill note that some of the aftermarket dampeners are a different size than stock, and usually need a different size belt.
the distributor is driven off the exhaust cam gear so nothing to do with the crank sensor or oil pump etc...
even on non vvti setups, I usually install the ge vvti oil pump and throw a vvti crank gear and crank sensor on there in case I ever go vvti I can just plug it in.
you could also instead put the 12 tooth gte non vvti wheel in there as a backup crank sensor, and standalones tend to pick that one up than the distributor signal.
or you can leave whatever oil pump is on there and just use the distributor.
gte oil pump and ge oil pump are pretty interchangeable, but the gte one has more oil pressure for oil squirters and the spot for the crank sensor.
if you just want the spot for the crank sensor on a ge block use the vvti ge oil pump for proper oil pressure and the crank sensor spot.
Some people run the gte oil pump on ge blocks just fine, others keep having front main seal issues puking oil.
That is why I generally say match pump to block. if you have a gte block you should use the gte pump for sure.
the actual stock crank pulleys are the same size and fit wise between ge and gte, you should be able to bolt it right on no problem.
you can put a 12 tooth or 36-2 tooth wheel behind either for the crank sensor pickup, or leave it empty like a non vvti ge.
Ill note that some of the aftermarket dampeners are a different size than stock, and usually need a different size belt.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 04-22-20 at 07:50 AM.
04-22-20, 07:56 AM
#715
Advanced
uh oh that doesn't sounds bueno. what new shortblock, gte or ge?
the distributor is driven off the exhaust cam gear so nothing to do with the crank sensor or oil pump etc...
even on non vvti setups, I usually install the ge vvti oil pump and throw a vvti crank gear and crank sensor on there in case I ever go vvti I can just plug it in.
you could also instead put the 12 tooth gte non vvti wheel in there as a backup crank sensor, and standalones tend to pick that one up than the distributor signal.
or you can leave whatever oil pump is on there and just use the distributor.
gte oil pump and ge oil pump are pretty interchangeable, but the gte one has more oil pressure for oil squirters and the spot for the crank sensor.
if you just want the spot for the crank sensor on a ge block use the vvti ge oil pump for proper oil pressure and the crank sensor spot.
Some people run the gte oil pump on ge blocks just fine, others keep having front main seal issues puking oil.
That is why I generally say match pump to block. if you have a gte block you should use the gte pump for sure.
the actual stock crank pulleys are the same size and fit wise between ge and gte, you should be able to bolt it right on no problem.
you can put a 12 tooth or 36-2 tooth wheel behind either for the crank sensor pickup, or leave it empty like a non vvti ge.
Ill note that some of the aftermarket dampeners are a different size than stock, and usually need a different size belt.
the distributor is driven off the exhaust cam gear so nothing to do with the crank sensor or oil pump etc...
even on non vvti setups, I usually install the ge vvti oil pump and throw a vvti crank gear and crank sensor on there in case I ever go vvti I can just plug it in.
you could also instead put the 12 tooth gte non vvti wheel in there as a backup crank sensor, and standalones tend to pick that one up than the distributor signal.
or you can leave whatever oil pump is on there and just use the distributor.
gte oil pump and ge oil pump are pretty interchangeable, but the gte one has more oil pressure for oil squirters and the spot for the crank sensor.
if you just want the spot for the crank sensor on a ge block use the vvti ge oil pump for proper oil pressure and the crank sensor spot.
Some people run the gte oil pump on ge blocks just fine, others keep having front main seal issues puking oil.
That is why I generally say match pump to block. if you have a gte block you should use the gte pump for sure.
the actual stock crank pulleys are the same size and fit wise between ge and gte, you should be able to bolt it right on no problem.
you can put a 12 tooth or 36-2 tooth wheel behind either for the crank sensor pickup, or leave it empty like a non vvti ge.
Ill note that some of the aftermarket dampeners are a different size than stock, and usually need a different size belt.
the one on my old block is a vvti style as it's a 97, has a crank sensor.
Do i swap on my 100k GE pump or send it with the GTE pump that is new.
Last edited by silentkill; 04-22-20 at 08:05 AM.
04-22-20, 11:50 AM
#716
It'll work but you could have rear/front main seal issues if your oil pressure is too high, there have been a few threads on this including on SF and it seemed like half the people who did it were fine and the other half were going through front main seals like oil changes. If it's already on there not sure I would disassemble it just for that, maybe run a big oil cooler if you have issues later.
Can't you just swap out the dowel pins? I would personally rock the higher compression na-t setup you have with your current block.
I didn't index my t56 before throwing it behind the sbc, I know they say to but I just slapped it in there and so far so good
You do have a lot into your setup and making alot more power, so indexing it is probably a good idea.
Can't you just swap out the dowel pins? I would personally rock the higher compression na-t setup you have with your current block.
I didn't index my t56 before throwing it behind the sbc, I know they say to but I just slapped it in there and so far so good
You do have a lot into your setup and making alot more power, so indexing it is probably a good idea.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 04-22-20 at 11:53 AM.
04-22-20, 12:01 PM
#717
Advanced
It'll work but you could have rear/front main seal issues if your oil pressure is too high, there have been a few threads on this including on SF and it seemed like half the people who did it were fine and the other half were going through front main seals like oil changes. If it's already on there not sure I would disassemble it just for that, maybe run a big oil cooler if you have issues later.
Can't you just swap out the dowel pins? I would personally rock the higher compression na-t setup you have with your current block.
I didn't index my t56 before throwing it behind the sbc, I know they say to but I just slapped it in there and so far so good
You do have a lot into your setup and making alot more power, so indexing it is probably a good idea.
Can't you just swap out the dowel pins? I would personally rock the higher compression na-t setup you have with your current block.
I didn't index my t56 before throwing it behind the sbc, I know they say to but I just slapped it in there and so far so good
You do have a lot into your setup and making alot more power, so indexing it is probably a good idea.
04-22-20, 02:50 PM
#719
Or just use the new block I guess
really aren't that much different.What makes you think you have a vacuum leak, the idle? I would check over all that stuff you don't want to be boosting 19 psi and the ecu seeing alot less (ecu should see the max 14 psi using a boost cut controller when you are above 14 psi), chances are you are still running rich with this ecu since it overfuels but I would sort it out before doing too many big pulls like that, especially back to back when heat builds up.
boost cut also looks at the tps for some reason, so sometimes you can get above the boost cut level on part throttle, but generally it should still boost cut when you are on it. I think your tps is probably fine though since you said you set the timing.
Just to confirm though, when you put the jumper in to set the timing, you did hear the change in how it was running right? if you have the timing light on the crank you will also see the timing change when the jumper is put in. It has to do this before you set the timing to 8-10 degrees, otherwise you won't actually have the right timing. I say that cause it wont let you change the timing (make the change in sound) unless your tps is set properly... and it could also affect boost cut via the tps issue. If you do hear the change in sound and set timing to 8-10 degrees then tps is good and its something else, but if you don't hear it that could be a tps issue.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 04-22-20 at 02:57 PM.
04-22-20, 07:26 PM
#720
I haven't had a reason to pull those yet but seems like it shouldn't be that hard, id grind it flat at that point and use a reverse drill bit/extractor on it, once it gets hot will prolly come out.
Or just use the new block I guess really aren't that much different.
If you have 440c injectors and no afc it should boost cut by 16 psi give or take. If you have a leak before the map sensor that is possible since the map would read lower than actual boost.
What makes you think you have a vacuum leak, the idle? I would check over all that stuff you don't want to be boosting 19 psi and the ecu seeing alot less (ecu should see the max 14 psi using a boost cut controller when you are above 14 psi), chances are you are still running rich with this ecu since it overfuels but I would sort it out before doing too many big pulls like that, especially back to back when heat builds up.
boost cut also looks at the tps for some reason, so sometimes you can get above the boost cut level on part throttle, but generally it should still boost cut when you are on it. I think your tps is probably fine though since you said you set the timing.
Just to confirm though, when you put the jumper in to set the timing, you did hear the change in how it was running right? if you have the timing light on the crank you will also see the timing change when the jumper is put in. It has to do this before you set the timing to 8-10 degrees, otherwise you won't actually have the right timing. I say that cause it wont let you change the timing (make the change in sound) unless your tps is set properly... and it could also affect boost cut via the tps issue. If you do hear the change in sound and set timing to 8-10 degrees then tps is good and its something else, but if you don't hear it that could be a tps issue.
Or just use the new block I guess
really aren't that much different.If you have 440c injectors and no afc it should boost cut by 16 psi give or take. If you have a leak before the map sensor that is possible since the map would read lower than actual boost.
What makes you think you have a vacuum leak, the idle? I would check over all that stuff you don't want to be boosting 19 psi and the ecu seeing alot less (ecu should see the max 14 psi using a boost cut controller when you are above 14 psi), chances are you are still running rich with this ecu since it overfuels but I would sort it out before doing too many big pulls like that, especially back to back when heat builds up.
boost cut also looks at the tps for some reason, so sometimes you can get above the boost cut level on part throttle, but generally it should still boost cut when you are on it. I think your tps is probably fine though since you said you set the timing.
Just to confirm though, when you put the jumper in to set the timing, you did hear the change in how it was running right? if you have the timing light on the crank you will also see the timing change when the jumper is put in. It has to do this before you set the timing to 8-10 degrees, otherwise you won't actually have the right timing. I say that cause it wont let you change the timing (make the change in sound) unless your tps is set properly... and it could also affect boost cut via the tps issue. If you do hear the change in sound and set timing to 8-10 degrees then tps is good and its something else, but if you don't hear it that could be a tps issue.
After driving around and at idle I have to blip the throttle to prevent it from stalling (starts running super rich), but after a couple of blips it starts to idle okay.
I have the TPS vacuum hose right between runners 3 and 4 on the ffim. It was so challenging getting that welded ffim on, I’m thinking there may be a vacuum leak between the lower runner and engine.
Last edited by joe diego; 04-22-20 at 07:30 PM.