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If you get good compression and good leakdown just change the seals with the head on, I wouldn't risk a valve job on an oem head that doesn't need one.
You will be opening up another can of worms, like with the other engine.
Alright i'll take your advise. I'll go through and leakdown test em and see what happens.
Just researching the valve seals and i find that some of the aftermarket viton sets don't have different colors for intake/exhaust, do they do away with separating them? https://www.inductionperformance.com...valve-seal-kit
Whats up CL,
so I have a 93 with 312,000 miles. I have recently changed HG to 1.3mm, ARP bolts, new front
calipers ( oem), viton valve seals, egr delete, decked head and pressure tested, new valve cover gaskets, new cam seals, new transmission mount, new crankshaft seal all seals and gasket are toyota. What else should I look into as far as a refresh.
would like to add small snail in the future.
Is there any critical parts im missing? Any feedback is greatly appreciated
Whats up CL,
so I have a 93 with 312,000 miles. I have recently changed HG to 1.3mm, ARP bolts, new front
calipers ( oem), viton valve seals, egr delete, decked head and pressure tested, new valve cover gaskets, new cam seals, new transmission mount, new crankshaft seal all seals and gasket are toyota. What else should I look into as far as a refresh.
would like to add small snail in the future.
Is there any critical parts im missing? Any feedback is greatly appreciated
I'm just about ready to go NA-T on my '95 SC300. I've got a JZS147 2JZGTE ECU and all the items needed to do the mod (OEM Toyota MAP sensor, IAT, DS62 igniter, Oside Tiger injectors, upgraded fuel pump, etc). I've spent hours going through this thread and one by one most of my questions have been answered, but there's a couple things that I'm still unsure of. I'm not super confident messing with electrical stuff so I want to make sure I do this mod correctly when the time comes so I don't do serious damage. I want to do the version of the mod where I keep the stock distributor, I'm fairly confident I understand which wires need to go where, but I can't seem to find anywhere what gauge wire is correct for the 5 additional wires outlined in red coming out of the ECU. Do you (or does anyone else) happen to know?
Also, since I'm using the Aristo ECU, I understand that I need to correct the signal from the HVAC unit so the A/C works. I found the instructions on post #29 by Lexsingle and they are nice and detailed, but it seems the pictures no longer load. Any good pictures of the setup lurking around here on the forums or could someone provide me with a picture of the setup?
Alright i'll take your advise. I'll go through and leakdown test em and see what happens.
Just researching the valve seals and i find that some of the aftermarket viton sets don't have different colors for intake/exhaust, do they do away with separating them? https://www.inductionperformance.com...valve-seal-kit
Alright i'll take your advise. I'll go through and leakdown test em and see what happens.
Just researching the valve seals and i find that some of the aftermarket viton sets don't have different colors for intake/exhaust, do they do away with separating them? https://www.inductionperformance.com...valve-seal-kit
Guess ill start gearing up for changing the seals in the car.
That is a good leakdown, wouldn't have a machine shop even touch that, just change seals with head on or if you do pull it just clean it up and put it back on.
The older kits had 12 different color seals for intake and exhaust (like oem I think), and the newer kits are usually all just blue which are def the viton ones.
I think I got the supertech one the last few rounds with the all blue seals.. I think they are just using the better seals all over now.
Originally Posted by fonzo91121
Whats up CL,
so I have a 93 with 312,000 miles. I have recently changed HG to 1.3mm, ARP bolts, new front
calipers ( oem), viton valve seals, egr delete, decked head and pressure tested, new valve cover gaskets, new cam seals, new transmission mount, new crankshaft seal all seals and gasket are toyota. What else should I look into as far as a refresh.
would like to add small snail in the future.
Is there any critical parts im missing? Any feedback is greatly appreciated
sounds like you got all the mechanical ready, focus on your ecu setup and probably a fuel pump upgrade.
Originally Posted by Crevasse
Hey Ali,
I'm just about ready to go NA-T on my '95 SC300. I've got a JZS147 2JZGTE ECU and all the items needed to do the mod (OEM Toyota MAP sensor, IAT, DS62 igniter, Oside Tiger injectors, upgraded fuel pump, etc). I've spent hours going through this thread and one by one most of my questions have been answered, but there's a couple things that I'm still unsure of. I'm not super confident messing with electrical stuff so I want to make sure I do this mod correctly when the time comes so I don't do serious damage. I want to do the version of the mod where I keep the stock distributor, I'm fairly confident I understand which wires need to go where, but I can't seem to find anywhere what gauge wire is correct for the 5 additional wires outlined in red coming out of the ECU. Do you (or does anyone else) happen to know?
Also, since I'm using the Aristo ECU, I understand that I need to correct the signal from the HVAC unit so the A/C works. I found the instructions on post #29 by Lexsingle and they are nice and detailed, but it seems the pictures no longer load. Any good pictures of the setup lurking around here on the forums or could someone provide me with a picture of the setup?
You use whatever is the same thickness as the stock ecu wires or slightly thicker (the actual thickness of the stranded wires inside not the insulation), I think those are like gauge 8 I can't remember off the top of my head. it should be "stranded" wire not solid.
With the aristo ecu you do have to do the a/c relay, Gerrb posted a picture somewhere also not sure where it ended up.
Thanks for the reply. Sounds good, I assume the same goes for the thickness of wire for the relay as well? Just use the same or slightly thicker gauge for the two power wires that have to be added?
Yeah the a/c relay for the aristo ecu can use the same size wires. They don't carry much current they are just signal wires more or less, if you look at the specs of the small relay they say to use it is not rated for very much so no need to use bigger wires there.
All I want is around 400whp, but I rather not use a piggyback. I’m currently using an aristo ecu, ffim, using 93 octane, 3” turbo back single exhaust, 440cc injectors, mkiv fuel pump, and a journal bearing driftmotion 6262 turbo kit. The boost cut is annoying so i’m bout to install a BCC so I can get it up to around 17psi. Is it safe to do this, or do I need to install a thicker head gasket with arp head studs? If 400whp is not possible with my set up I would still be okay with around 350whp.
So going into this i did ARP head studs and gte head gasket knowing that I wanted at least 400 and rather Play it safe then be on the verge of blowing something . Not knowing when it might go you’ll need to watch your afrs and slowly go up with the boost and as long as your afs are good as you go up with the boost and you’re running a conservative timing you should be OK I am no expert this is just what I have gathered try to keep the AFR’s under 12
^^ more or less what he said. You need to have a wideband in and make sure you are 11 afr or richer range on the stock ecu (lower afr number is richer) for the entire rpm range if you aren't lowering the compression. I would personally look for richer numbers in the 10's most of the time and itll probably lean out to 11 then 12 if you crank the boost high enough so increment the boost slowly a few psi at a time from where you are. I wouldn't dip into 12 with the stock compression.
You would probably be ok at 400whp on the stock head setup if everything is in great shape, but if you have an overboost situation you may blow the HG so make sure your wastegate setup and boost controller etc.. is all well installed, lines secured, not resting on anything that can melt the lines etc... any of those things can overboost you and without more overhead you'll at least blow the HG if not warp the head.
What would be the ideal octane for a SC300 using an aristo ecu? No engine management, 440cc, and mkiv FP. Found a couple of threads on different sites with different numbers. We got 100 octane here in San Diego and I would just blend it with a lower octane for the ideal amount.
Hi, so I wanted to just get that cx racing t70 turbo kit they are selling. My question is it even worth it to boost an automatic? I don't plan on going super crazy with power as its currently my daily and I don't wanna have it broke down most of the time. Also , if I did do this, would just replacing the fuel pump, injectors and ecu from a 2jzgte be good enough? The site of course says no other modifications other than the kit but I know it can't be that simple. Any advice or links to read would be appreciated. Hell even if there's someone's build I could look read about would be appreciated. Thanks
08-21-20, 10:17 AM
