NA-T Questions?? Ask the Guru
11-02-20, 09:21 AM
#826
What would be the ideal octane for a SC300 using an aristo ecu? No engine management, 440cc, and mkiv FP. Found a couple of threads on different sites with different numbers. We got 100 octane here in San Diego and I would just blend it with a lower octane for the ideal amount.
It isn't really dialed in to run higher octane fuel, it'll run nice and smooth with 100 but I don't think you'll get more power etc.. without a standalone and a tune for it.
Hi, so I wanted to just get that cx racing t70 turbo kit they are selling. My question is it even worth it to boost an automatic? I don't plan on going super crazy with power as its currently my daily and I don't wanna have it broke down most of the time. Also , if I did do this, would just replacing the fuel pump, injectors and ecu from a 2jzgte be good enough? The site of course says no other modifications other than the kit but I know it can't be that simple. Any advice or links to read would be appreciated. Hell even if there's someone's build I could look read about would be appreciated. Thanks
Once you do that you will be excited to enjoy your new boost, but you will be severely limited in power cause of the stock auto, so you wont really enjoy all the boost you can make, and one day the trans will just go out on you and then if its a car you need to be working you will have to upgrade then, or another replacement that may or may not last very long.
There isn't really a scenario where you can baby along the automatic forever and still enjoy it how you want. everyone gets to that level and wants more boost, you will get to the just starting to have fun power level, but your actual turbo setup could put down like twice that power if it wasn't for the trans so it is a trade off. Also the TT ecu does not control the torque converter lockup so highway driving is also limited sometimes cause of trans temps.
I still know people who have done it and enjoyed it, but it is not for everyone as the stock autos vary wildly in condition after 20 something years, and weren't very strong to begin with.
My recommendation is save up for a R series swap or something similar that can hold some decent power (there are different options out there). If you must stay auto, find a gte swap with an auto trans and drop that in.
You could run a gte auto on na-t, but the wiring is complicated. A shop could make you a harness that would work, but they will charge you the full price for a swap harness I would imagine.
I also think the only auto worth having on a turbo setup it is a built gte auto and that costs $$$, you could easily do a manual trans swap for less, but if you want auto and it not to break it costs more than you think.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 11-02-20 at 09:28 AM.
11-29-20, 01:40 AM
#827
Driver School Candidate
2 Quick questions. Osidetiger is telling me these injectors will fit my obd2 non vvti fuel rail and runners. I know after reading this thread most recommended swapping out the runners and rail to OBD1 in years past. Can anyone confirm if these injectors will work properly in my OBD2 setup?
550cc Lexus SC300 Genuine Denso 2JZGE 3.0L Turbo Fuel Injectors 1995-2000 Model | eBay
Second, are we sure the NA FPR will suffice? Im going with 550s and a walbro gss341 pump, jdm aristo ecu and an afc to trim up the fuel and hopefully be able to run about 15psi. Can anyone confirm if a GTE FPR is a direct bolt in? Thanks
550cc Lexus SC300 Genuine Denso 2JZGE 3.0L Turbo Fuel Injectors 1995-2000 Model | eBay
Second, are we sure the NA FPR will suffice? Im going with 550s and a walbro gss341 pump, jdm aristo ecu and an afc to trim up the fuel and hopefully be able to run about 15psi. Can anyone confirm if a GTE FPR is a direct bolt in? Thanks
12-01-20, 08:46 AM
#828
I have never seen an obd2 runner working properly (not saying they can't), maybe you can get it to work, but later when you want/need more injector you are stuck with your obd2 setup which has limited selection if it even works.
I always recommend going obd1 runner and using regular top feed 11mm denso injectors, just like the obd1 2jzge. Either that or swap to a FFIM with the runners included.
I dunno why people keep asking me if they can use special injectors on that super weird and unique 96-97 obd2 runner. I don't really like anything about it for turbocharging, just more places for leaks and issues.
So if you want to do it right, just swap to what everyone else uses, regular top feed without the air assist stuff. Sure it may be harder to find an obd1 runner, but they are around.
the NA fpr is the same as the GTE fpr, don't go messing with the fpr until you upgrade the fuel line, the stock FPR on both cars is a 1:1 rising with boost.
If your system is stock you can easily support the 550s on the stock stuff with the pump and injectors. I ran 550's and the same walboro pump at like 18 psi on my daily driver 95 before I sold it.
Heck you could probably get away with the 440's and no afc depending on what turbo you are running.
I always recommend going obd1 runner and using regular top feed 11mm denso injectors, just like the obd1 2jzge. Either that or swap to a FFIM with the runners included.
I dunno why people keep asking me if they can use special injectors on that super weird and unique 96-97 obd2 runner. I don't really like anything about it for turbocharging, just more places for leaks and issues.
So if you want to do it right, just swap to what everyone else uses, regular top feed without the air assist stuff. Sure it may be harder to find an obd1 runner, but they are around.
the NA fpr is the same as the GTE fpr, don't go messing with the fpr until you upgrade the fuel line, the stock FPR on both cars is a 1:1 rising with boost.
If your system is stock you can easily support the 550s on the stock stuff with the pump and injectors. I ran 550's and the same walboro pump at like 18 psi on my daily driver 95 before I sold it.
Heck you could probably get away with the 440's and no afc depending on what turbo you are running.
12-01-20, 09:55 AM
#829
Advanced
I have never seen an obd2 runner working properly (not saying they can't), maybe you can get it to work, but later when you want/need more injector you are stuck with your obd2 setup which has limited selection if it even works.
I always recommend going obd1 runner and using regular top feed 11mm denso injectors, just like the obd1 2jzge. Either that or swap to a FFIM with the runners included.
I dunno why people keep asking me if they can use special injectors on that super weird and unique 96-97 obd2 runner. I don't really like anything about it for turbocharging, just more places for leaks and issues.
So if you want to do it right, just swap to what everyone else uses, regular top feed without the air assist stuff. Sure it may be harder to find an obd1 runner, but they are around.
the NA fpr is the same as the GTE fpr, don't go messing with the fpr until you upgrade the fuel line, the stock FPR on both cars is a 1:1 rising with boost.
If your system is stock you can easily support the 550s on the stock stuff with the pump and injectors. I ran 550's and the same walboro pump at like 18 psi on my daily driver 95 before I sold it.
Heck you could probably get away with the 440's and no afc depending on what turbo you are running.
I always recommend going obd1 runner and using regular top feed 11mm denso injectors, just like the obd1 2jzge. Either that or swap to a FFIM with the runners included.
I dunno why people keep asking me if they can use special injectors on that super weird and unique 96-97 obd2 runner. I don't really like anything about it for turbocharging, just more places for leaks and issues.
So if you want to do it right, just swap to what everyone else uses, regular top feed without the air assist stuff. Sure it may be harder to find an obd1 runner, but they are around.
the NA fpr is the same as the GTE fpr, don't go messing with the fpr until you upgrade the fuel line, the stock FPR on both cars is a 1:1 rising with boost.
If your system is stock you can easily support the 550s on the stock stuff with the pump and injectors. I ran 550's and the same walboro pump at like 18 psi on my daily driver 95 before I sold it.
Heck you could probably get away with the 440's and no afc depending on what turbo you are running.
#3 & 6 foul spark plugs under any load.
12-01-20, 12:56 PM
#830
Still not sure what Silent's fouling issue is being caused by, could be related to the intake or could be entirely something else.
Maybe Radium can offer more insight with the adapters and would be curious to see more setups running those (still not sure if they were designed for 96-97 obd2 non vvti runners or 98+vvti runners).
Fuel delivery is an area on a JZ you do not want to gamble on, the stock 92-95 2jzge factory setup actually works really well... The top feed injector setup on the ge (11mm denso style) is the best you could have asked for from factory (the inner diameter is close to the size of some aftermarket rails).
The non vvti GTE setups have to convert from side feed to top feed, which means an aftermarket rail (usually 14mm top feed domestic injectors) and fuel pressure regulator (not cause there was anything wrong with the stock one, just cause of the rail swap).
They go through all that trouble just to get away from side feed injectors which are limiting nowadays... so follow the same principal, swap whatever parts you need to get a proper top feed setup whether it is 14mm domestic with an aftermarket fuel rail kit or 11m denso using the factory 92-95 2jzge parts, just be sure to get the right size injectors for your rail... as long as it is top feed in either of those sizes there are tons of injectors to choose from, especially the 14mm as that is the style injector used by most performance cars over here (before direct injection anyways).
The top feed setup worked so well actually that the next gen 1jz vvti etc.. switched to top feed setups like the 2jzge 92-95 originally had cause it was simple, reliable and good for performance, and FPR still handles boost fine just the same as before.
You might ask a bunch of poeple and get a bunch of different answers, but the Guru recommends staying away from that sort of setup, get the right lower runner or look to a FFIM.
Maybe Radium can offer more insight with the adapters and would be curious to see more setups running those (still not sure if they were designed for 96-97 obd2 non vvti runners or 98+vvti runners).
Fuel delivery is an area on a JZ you do not want to gamble on, the stock 92-95 2jzge factory setup actually works really well... The top feed injector setup on the ge (11mm denso style) is the best you could have asked for from factory (the inner diameter is close to the size of some aftermarket rails).
The non vvti GTE setups have to convert from side feed to top feed, which means an aftermarket rail (usually 14mm top feed domestic injectors) and fuel pressure regulator (not cause there was anything wrong with the stock one, just cause of the rail swap).
They go through all that trouble just to get away from side feed injectors which are limiting nowadays... so follow the same principal, swap whatever parts you need to get a proper top feed setup whether it is 14mm domestic with an aftermarket fuel rail kit or 11m denso using the factory 92-95 2jzge parts, just be sure to get the right size injectors for your rail... as long as it is top feed in either of those sizes there are tons of injectors to choose from, especially the 14mm as that is the style injector used by most performance cars over here (before direct injection anyways).
The top feed setup worked so well actually that the next gen 1jz vvti etc.. switched to top feed setups like the 2jzge 92-95 originally had cause it was simple, reliable and good for performance, and FPR still handles boost fine just the same as before.
You might ask a bunch of poeple and get a bunch of different answers, but the Guru recommends staying away from that sort of setup, get the right lower runner or look to a FFIM.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 12-01-20 at 01:03 PM.
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silentkill (12-01-20)
12-01-20, 07:32 PM
#831
Driver School Candidate
Still not sure what Silent's fouling issue is being caused by, could be related to the intake or could be entirely something else.
Maybe Radium can offer more insight with the adapters and would be curious to see more setups running those (still not sure if they were designed for 96-97 obd2 non vvti runners or 98+vvti runners).
Fuel delivery is an area on a JZ you do not want to gamble on, the stock 92-95 2jzge factory setup actually works really well... The top feed injector setup on the ge (11mm denso style) is the best you could have asked for from factory (the inner diameter is close to the size of some aftermarket rails).
The non vvti GTE setups have to convert from side feed to top feed, which means an aftermarket rail (usually 14mm top feed domestic injectors) and fuel pressure regulator (not cause there was anything wrong with the stock one, just cause of the rail swap).
They go through all that trouble just to get away from side feed injectors which are limiting nowadays... so follow the same principal, swap whatever parts you need to get a proper top feed setup whether it is 14mm domestic with an aftermarket fuel rail kit or 11m denso using the factory 92-95 2jzge parts, just be sure to get the right size injectors for your rail... as long as it is top feed in either of those sizes there are tons of injectors to choose from, especially the 14mm as that is the style injector used by most performance cars over here (before direct injection anyways).
The top feed setup worked so well actually that the next gen 1jz vvti etc.. switched to top feed setups like the 2jzge 92-95 originally had cause it was simple, reliable and good for performance, and FPR still handles boost fine just the same as before.
You might ask a bunch of poeple and get a bunch of different answers, but the Guru recommends staying away from that sort of setup, get the right lower runner or look to a FFIM.
Maybe Radium can offer more insight with the adapters and would be curious to see more setups running those (still not sure if they were designed for 96-97 obd2 non vvti runners or 98+vvti runners).
Fuel delivery is an area on a JZ you do not want to gamble on, the stock 92-95 2jzge factory setup actually works really well... The top feed injector setup on the ge (11mm denso style) is the best you could have asked for from factory (the inner diameter is close to the size of some aftermarket rails).
The non vvti GTE setups have to convert from side feed to top feed, which means an aftermarket rail (usually 14mm top feed domestic injectors) and fuel pressure regulator (not cause there was anything wrong with the stock one, just cause of the rail swap).
They go through all that trouble just to get away from side feed injectors which are limiting nowadays... so follow the same principal, swap whatever parts you need to get a proper top feed setup whether it is 14mm domestic with an aftermarket fuel rail kit or 11m denso using the factory 92-95 2jzge parts, just be sure to get the right size injectors for your rail... as long as it is top feed in either of those sizes there are tons of injectors to choose from, especially the 14mm as that is the style injector used by most performance cars over here (before direct injection anyways).
The top feed setup worked so well actually that the next gen 1jz vvti etc.. switched to top feed setups like the 2jzge 92-95 originally had cause it was simple, reliable and good for performance, and FPR still handles boost fine just the same as before.
You might ask a bunch of poeple and get a bunch of different answers, but the Guru recommends staying away from that sort of setup, get the right lower runner or look to a FFIM.
OK, Thanks for the info. I ordered the 92-95 lower runners and matching 550cc injectors from oside. The only reason I was asking again was because the threads I found on the topic were older, was not sure if things had changed since then. Much more convenient for me to use what I have but it needs to work right. The car will never see more than 550cc injectors will give me as its my daily and will only run pump gas and boost levels below 18psi. I plan on running the 550s with the AFC to bump up the boost cut some and get the Air/Fuels dead on so I'm not fouling plugs, otherwise I would go with 440s. Good to know the FPRs are identical between the NA and TT I thought there may have been an internal difference. I have a VVTI coil setup already. I'm going to go with either my old school PT67 or my 6766. Id prefer to go with a 6266 or better yet a 6262 for response but this is the smallest I have.
12-04-20, 02:26 PM
#832
The non vvti stuff hasn't changed much really for basic na-t. I have been noticing more stock ecu's going bad on the forums, not sure when that will be a big issue for the JDM non vvti gte ecu's but they are also getting pretty old.
If you have a good condition unit it will probably be fine, but those components probably should be refurbished at some point before they start to go bad. once they start to have issues it seems hit or miss.
If you have a good condition unit it will probably be fine, but those components probably should be refurbished at some point before they start to go bad. once they start to have issues it seems hit or miss.
01-01-21, 10:21 AM
#833
Good morning. And a very happy new year tonevery one.
This may be a stupid question and I'm sorry if it's been asked before.
Can't seem to find the proper answer to the question of what size pin connector and proper wire gauge to use that is to be crimped and stuck in the ECU connector for the TT ECU Mod.
I saw https://www.driftmotion.com/Repair-W...0-p/dm2453.htm, the description seems to fit.
Any light and direction would be very much appreciated!
Happy new year, boys and girls!
This may be a stupid question and I'm sorry if it's been asked before.
Can't seem to find the proper answer to the question of what size pin connector and proper wire gauge to use that is to be crimped and stuck in the ECU connector for the TT ECU Mod.
I saw https://www.driftmotion.com/Repair-W...0-p/dm2453.htm, the description seems to fit.
Any light and direction would be very much appreciated!
Happy new year, boys and girls!
01-02-21, 10:59 AM
#834
Happy new year! I believe that is the right one, the 040. There is another name for them also if you just want to order the actual terminals and crimp/solder your own wire, I thought I posted it in there will have to see if I can remember.
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MrGi11 (01-02-21)
01-02-21, 01:05 PM
#835
thsnks for the reply man. I appreciate you
P/s: if you could kindly direct me to the other name or where to buy them like separately , I would appreciate it. Thanks again, Mr.Ali!
Last edited by MrGi11; 01-03-21 at 07:10 AM.
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MrGi11 (01-05-21)
01-04-21, 01:23 PM
#837
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: May 2011
Location: CA
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Hello Ali,
Noob here haha. I am getting my 95 sc300 NAT ready for a first start but there something I can’t quite figure out. I am running an AEM v2 with an AEM map and IAT sensor. My question is when looking at AEM my throttle % is showing 100% but flickers every now and then. When I recalibrate the tps it shows min voltage is 5.02 and max is 5.08. I recheck my wiring for the IAT and map sensors as well and they seem okay. Is there anything else I should be checking? thanks
Noob here haha. I am getting my 95 sc300 NAT ready for a first start but there something I can’t quite figure out. I am running an AEM v2 with an AEM map and IAT sensor. My question is when looking at AEM my throttle % is showing 100% but flickers every now and then. When I recalibrate the tps it shows min voltage is 5.02 and max is 5.08. I recheck my wiring for the IAT and map sensors as well and they seem okay. Is there anything else I should be checking? thanks
01-05-21, 02:28 PM
#838
are you using the stock ge tps and stock ge harness? or did you change to a ffim or something like that?
If you are using the stock tps and stock harness it should work just by calibration in the settings.
if you changed to a throttle body that uses a gte style tps then you have to reverse the 4 wires in the tps connector. the gte main tps turn opposite directions so they are wired differently.
I hope you aren't trying to use a gte intake manifold on a ge lower runner, even with adapters it is not a good way to go. Everytime I see it done there are issues.
Some guy started making adapters recently and I think this has been happening more, but the flow is not even and everyone should really just get a real ffim or use the stock intake manifold which makes more power anyways.
If you are using the stock tps and stock harness it should work just by calibration in the settings.
if you changed to a throttle body that uses a gte style tps then you have to reverse the 4 wires in the tps connector. the gte main tps turn opposite directions so they are wired differently.
I hope you aren't trying to use a gte intake manifold on a ge lower runner, even with adapters it is not a good way to go. Everytime I see it done there are issues.
Some guy started making adapters recently and I think this has been happening more, but the flow is not even and everyone should really just get a real ffim or use the stock intake manifold which makes more power anyways.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 01-05-21 at 02:31 PM.
01-05-21, 02:57 PM
#839
Driver School Candidate
Injectors question
If my goal is only 450/500 hp what would the recommended injector size be, I was told 650cc so I went to buy some precision turbo ones and the guy selling them told they weren't really good that I should get 1050 ID injectors. Would it be ok to run such a high CC injector or can that be adjusted with a standalone. I'm new to the whole fuel stuff . Just wanna make sure I won't be wasting fuel or possibly causing a danger to the car.
01-05-21, 04:19 PM
#840
If you are running a standalone and want the best injector grab some EV14 Bosch injectors in the right size (ID's are ev14 bosch injectors).
For most pump setups (and even entry level e85) around 1000cc is a good and popular choice. The EV14 injectors are better tech/ easier to tune so you can still idle very well on 1000cc injectors.
For your power goals on pump you could do that on 550cc honestly but I would still get the 1000cc for when you get the itch for more power.
If it was an e85 setup for more power go to 2000cc, or an inbetween size depending on what your goals are.
The older style injectors like the oem ones that you find in 330-660cc I wouldn't run on a standalone cause the ev14 are so much newer and alot better to tune, so that guy is right when you are on a standalone.
If you are running the stock ecu or the tt ecu mod or any toyota ecu, then I would do 440cc to 550cc of the old style injectors cause that is what they are setup for with lag times etc.. using the newer ones might throw off the fueling or might not havent tried it.
For most pump setups (and even entry level e85) around 1000cc is a good and popular choice. The EV14 injectors are better tech/ easier to tune so you can still idle very well on 1000cc injectors.
For your power goals on pump you could do that on 550cc honestly but I would still get the 1000cc for when you get the itch for more power.
If it was an e85 setup for more power go to 2000cc, or an inbetween size depending on what your goals are.
The older style injectors like the oem ones that you find in 330-660cc I wouldn't run on a standalone cause the ev14 are so much newer and alot better to tune, so that guy is right when you are on a standalone.
If you are running the stock ecu or the tt ecu mod or any toyota ecu, then I would do 440cc to 550cc of the old style injectors cause that is what they are setup for with lag times etc.. using the newer ones might throw off the fueling or might not havent tried it.
Last edited by Ali SC3; 01-05-21 at 04:24 PM.
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