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How have I not seen this thread yet! All praise to the most high NA-T God! Grateful to have a member like Ali in the community. I finally got my FFIM back from the welder as I made an exact replica from your blueprint! Oh and I made sure I got some obd1 runners on them since this going in my 97. Give me a grade now, did I pass?? Anthony's should almost be identical LOL
Last edited by ScBouncE; 08-04-16 at 03:52 AM.
Reason: Adding more content
Ali:
I seem to remember reading in a few places that you are using a JDM ecu + 550cc + mapecu. I'm hoping that is still the case as I could use a little assistance in wiring up the patch harness for the JDM ecu + the mapecu. Where I run into real questions is how I should properly wire in for the is300 coils into my 96 Cali 5sp sc300.
I don't believe a modified wiring pinout diagram for the sc300/400 tt ecu mod with IS300 coils currently exists on the mapecu site. I definitely was not able to find a 'base' map download that would be setup for the IS300 coil mod, so at the moment I have no idea where to start properly. Are you able to help with how the 18 pin mapecu connector should be wired in, along with a basemap for 550cc's + is300 coils on JDM? (I'm assuming this is already your setup)
Here is what I was able to find.
This is the pinout for the supra USDM gte with 6 coils where you can see they are all 'intercepted' by the mapecu
This is the pinout for the JDM Supra GE -- I know that pin b66 needs to be moved to b62
This is the pinout for the is300 with coilpacks -- obviously a different ecu connection
Here is just my educated guess:
From the tt ecu mod thread using is300 coils
b52 + b57 need to be spliced together -- plugs into t1 on the igniter -- this wire already exists and is moved from the old igniter to the tt igniter
b53 + b56 need to be spliced together -- plugs into t2 on the igniter -- this is a new wire run for the tt ecu mod
b54 + b55 need to be spliced together -- plugs into t3 on the igniter -- this is a new wire run for the tt ecu mod
I would use the 2nd diagram for the 16way plug 2jz-ge ONLY I need to move b66 to b62 for the map sensor
I am assuming that I should follow the 3rd picture is300 for the t1-t3 mapecu spliced into the igniter?
I am unsure what to do with the map sensor that would normally go to b62, as the digram shows the wire cut 'x' where I am assuming the mapecu is going to become the map sensor for the JDM ecu?
*On a side note, do you have a link to the wiring harness guide that shows what each pin does or goes to for the supra or sc? I ask because the patch harness that came with the mapecu has an extra patch wire on a1 and a33 and I was curious what he was doing with them. If I can figure out what they do, then I can make an educated guess as to what other equipment was setup.
Good try but you basically have 3 wrong maps there, the first one 2jzgte is close but you have the USDM one.
The is300 coils do not have any effect on the map ecu or how it is wired. only thing map ecu needs ignition wise is IGF signal b58, and its the same wire on a 2jzge and 2jzgte so there is no difference even with vvti coils.
follow the JDM 2jzgte diagram below I have added. the coil wring is in the tt ecu mod thread and goes the pins like you wrote above.
Yeah, so move the stock wire from b66 to b62 and then follow the wiring diagram where you cut it and the output on the map ecu will go to b62, just like in the diagram below. also the wires in yellow you generally don't need to connect unless you really want to.
USDM pinout search online for "USDM 2jzge pinout" pictures
Originally Posted by ScBouncE
How have I not seen this thread yet! All praise to the most high NA-T God! Grateful to have a member like Ali in the community. I finally got my FFIM back from the welder as I made an exact replica from your blueprint! Oh and I made sure I got some obd1 runners on them since this going in my 97. Give me a grade now, did I pass?? Anthony's should almost be identical LOL
Wow, looks great. Good job and all welded up including runners, going to give you 10 out of 10 on that one, I'd run it =)
Great job also going with the obd1 runners, 1000% the right thing to do so you don't have to worry about injector complications.
Should perform nicely keep us posted on the install.
you shouldn't have a wire there if you have a 1 wire o2 sensor, its a bit odd for a 93. normally that pin is blank.
make sure its the right pin and check if its a cali model they had 4 wire on certain years but you can tell from the connector in the engine bay.
I would think if there is a wire there you would be ok to remove it with the JDM ecu and wire it up properly.
that is odd, remove it and see if it changes anything or throws any codes, unless you already started all the wiring for the jdm ecu then just remove it and wire up the o2 it should be fine. If its a ground for something important then you can try and connect it to ground on B69
ALIGURU,
OH NO! I have oil blowing out of my passenger side breather (onto my downpipe). I am a "boost creeper", I kept turning the boost up one click at a time and forgetting to turn it back down. I am tuned up to like 18 lbs and in 2 months, "crept" it up pretty far. I hope I did not break something. I turned it way back down and the smoke stopped for the most part. Anytime I get into full boost, i smell the smoke a little bit again. I now need a catch can at least, some repairs at worst. A friend had me check for smoke coming out of oil fill hole. I saw none. Car runs fine and does not miss. It still spits a bit of oil at full boost though. I was told i should replace my PCV valve in case it was stuck. Any other suggestions or guidance? Everything seems normal except the oil blowing onto the downpipe (i know, FIRE!). I got some little filters like you have but I think I am spitting too much oil for that now. I will replace the PCV tonight or tomorrow just in case that was bad.
PS: This only happened once before when a shop overfilled the oil. We removed some and it stopped.
How have I not seen this thread yet! All praise to the most high NA-T God! Grateful to have a member like Ali in the community. I finally got my FFIM back from the welder as I made an exact replica from your blueprint! Oh and I made sure I got some obd1 runners on them since this going in my 97. Give me a grade now, did I pass?? Anthony's should almost be identical LOL
SCbounce,
It sure is!
Yes, I joined the ALIFFIM squad!
Here is mine #003. (revision 2?) I can't wait to install it.
Thanks ALI! Thanks Bounce!
ALIGURU,
OH NO! I have oil blowing out of my passenger side breather (onto my downpipe). I am a "boost creep", I kept turning the boost up one click at a time and forgetting to turn it back down. I am tuned up to like 18 lbs and in 2 months, "crept" it up pretty far. I hope I did not break something. I turned it way back down and the smoke stopped for the most part. Anytime I get into full boost, i smell the smoke a little bit again. I now need a catch can at least, some repairs at worst. A friend had me check for smoke coming out of oil fill hole. I saw none. Car runs fine and does not miss. It still spits a bit of oil at full boost though. I was told i should replace my PCV valve in case it was stuck. Any other suggestions or guidance? Everything seems normal except the oil blowing onto the downpipe (i know, FIRE!). I got some little filters like you have but I think I am spitting too much oil for that now. I will replace the PCV tonight or tomorrow.
PS: This only happened once before when a shop overfilled the oil. We removed some and it stopped.
you just have a filter on the passenger side and pcv on the drivers? If that is the case then you will probably blow some oil out at those boost levels.
the stock hose barb on the passenger side is pretty small so all that pressure has to escape from a small hole and it takes oil with it.
I got rid of the PCV and put a breather on that side which helped get the pressure out faster without as much oil.
Also I made both sides holes larger and use larger fittings and filters which all helps with that.
your options are doing the same as above, or put a line going to a catch can on the passenger side valve cover, and then a filter on the catch can.
you just have a filter on the passenger side and pcv on the drivers? If that is the case then you will probably blow some oil out at those boost levels.
the stock hose barb on the passenger side is pretty small so all that pressure has to escape from a small hole and it takes oil with it.
I got rid of the PCV and put a breather on that side which helped get the pressure out faster without as much oil.
Also I made both sides holes larger and use larger fittings and filters which all helps with that.
your options are doing the same as above, or put a line going to a catch can on the passenger side valve cover, and then a filter on the catch can.
I just got the little filter today. I did not put it on yet. I am going to replace the PCV valve tomorrow also (temporary test to see if it was stuck).
I like your removal idea....... I may try that.
I saw a high power Supra setup that eliminated the PCV with a modified catch can. he kept the rubber grommet in the valve cover, and bought a 90 vacuum hose coupler. One side of it is attached to the catch can hose, while the other slides into the grommet on the valve cover (I copied and pasted that, I hope it makes sense)
Which would be best at controlling the oil loss?
(something like this GTE below)
the thing about the pcv valve is it closes under boost, and when it is open in vaccum it only lets a tiny amount of air past.
so if its working or not doesn't really affect the blowby, you will still be shooting oil out the other side.
Yeah there are lots of ways to go about removing the pcv and/or adding a catch can.
Just go with whatever you like best but removing the pcv and putting a filter on that side also, or running both sides to a can that has a filter like in the picture will help alot.
the thing about the pcv valve is it closes under boost, and when it is open in vaccum it only lets a tiny amount of air past.
so if its working or not doesn't really affect the blowby, you will still be shooting oil out the other side.
Yeah there are lots of ways to go about removing the pcv and/or adding a catch can.
Just go with whatever you like best but removing the pcv and putting a filter on that side also, or running both sides to a can that has a filter like in the picture will help alot.
Where did you mount your throttle cable on your FFIM? A couple guys were saying you need to weld a tab on there?? I haven't come across any of that on your threads unless I missed something
Hi, I have a 97 sc300 I've been working on for some time I've purchased a Aem ems v2 30-6101. This piece is for the non turbo supra, Sc, Gs etc. I have a A/T aristo- Atf built transmission. The Aem diagram says trans offered both a/t and m/t but only supports m/t. Now the pin out of the Aem shows a/t functions. So I'm confused, if this ems will work with my application.Also I've noticed that the trans solenoid plugs differ. Sc4 Gs3 and the aristo is a 8 pin with s1, s2, s3 and lock up on another pin location. The Sc3 is a 3pin and has s1, s2, s3 with lock up. Trans cable? Sc3 used this but the aristos,supras, don't so I assuming that I don't need it.
Where did you mount your throttle cable on your FFIM? A couple guys were saying you need to weld a tab on there?? I haven't come across any of that on your threads unless I missed something
I used an L bracket on the front stud on the lower runner, I think it normally holds the plastic pieces of the harness in place but I tucked the harness a long time ago. I planned to just use that as a mockup and make a nicer piece, but never got around to it lol.
I run the throttle body upside down so thats why its on that side, on the other side welding a tab is the best option.
you can see it in this older picture
Originally Posted by LexMikesc3
Hi, I have a 97 sc300 I've been working on for some time I've purchased a Aem ems v2 30-6101. This piece is for the non turbo supra, Sc, Gs etc. I have a A/T aristo- Atf built transmission. The Aem diagram says trans offered both a/t and m/t but only supports m/t. Now the pin out of the Aem shows a/t functions. So I'm confused, if this ems will work with my application.Also I've noticed that the trans solenoid plugs differ. Sc4 Gs3 and the aristo is a 8 pin with s1, s2, s3 and lock up on another pin location. The Sc3 is a 3pin and has s1, s2, s3 with lock up. Trans cable? Sc3 used this but the aristos,supras, don't so I assuming that I don't need it.
Sorry I don't do automatic transmissions. I know there was something going on there with aem dropping support for it I want to say it is possible but its not the best at controlling it so they can break etc... so they said it doesn't support it but I don't know if it can still be run or not anymore. its a standalone so it should be able to but that doesn't mean they "support" it. you will have to talk to someone who runs an auto or a good aem tuner should know. I never played around with an automatic just saying what I have read here and there from others.
08-04-16, 03:50 AM
keep us posted on the install.
