Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

If you did the 2jzge bottom end then you could push it alot harder, like a normal na-t. the next weakest point will be the auto tt trans but you should be able to enjoy power in the 400's safely with that setup, but controlling that trans may be difficult with a stock vvti ecu (maybe there is a newer tt trans that is compatible?) and with a piggyback there is alot going on, which raises questions do you have to care about emissions etc... if not you can go standalone and not worry about all that stuff and run whatever you want. If you go manual transmisson then alot of it becomes easier, a simple r154 swap would get you where you need to be or there are other swaps out there.

unfortunately, with vvti setups especially auto trans ones a gte swap is worth considering price wise, however, emissions will be a no go unless you run it on your 2jzge vvti electronics an then you still need the piggyback cause the stock ecu freaks out with boost, so with emissions its similar but if you don't need it then you could even run your na-t off gte vvti electronics, basically change the block for a 2jzge non vvti and slap a vvti tt auto trans on there and use that tt harness and ecu to control it all, basically using all the gte stuff but the motor but it may be touchy cause those are setup for maf's and na-t will be single turbo.

you may just want to start a new thread in the main section for advice cause you aren't th first person with this dilemma, and there are lots of options to choose from, and a gte swap might be a good idea in your case but go 2jz if you can afford it.

oSUPRAo

I appreciate the help. I recently moved to Florida, so no emissions concerns luckily. Maybe my best bet is to just swap a jdm tt auto transmission and get an na-t kit. From what I've read my rods and that tranny will both survive at around 400whp. What is the cheapest way to get it to work in my SC? Do I need a tweak harness or aem fic for just a transmission swap or can I use my stock ecu and harness? Do any other modifications need to be made for it to bolt up and work?

8052JZ

iTrader: (13)

Ali, do you happen to know how to get Hall effect sensors for cam/crank working on the AEM v2 6101 box? Not much information out there but its been done before. I read something about removing the two current resistors on the board. Then something else about adding a resistors. I don't feel comfortable doing the board mod with not knowing exactly what to do.

If this is a whole other thead, let me know ill get it started specifically for this.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I don't know of pretend to know about auto transmissions or its various plugs so you will have to research that yourself.
the key to the weak rods is the tune, so if your tune is good it will survive, if you run it lean etc.. then you can blow it even at 400hp.
I would just wire it myself, but maybe you can get tweak to make a harness for that, expect to pay quite a bit like a regular harness.

how the FIC would work on that setup would be wiring it like a regular piggyack (think safc which needs about 5-6 wires used), and then in addition what you want is called intercept mode, where the injector wires will go in and out of the FIC, and also the crank sensor wire so it can retard timing, so thats all extra wires. the FIC will also be wired to the stock ecu input for o2 sensors to fool the stock ecu (keep fuel trims stable), and you will wire up a wideband to the fic.

since you don't have emissions, you can also just go standalone and you can even use a whole non vvti motor which might make it all easier and run more power.
you could also ask tweak to build you a harness to use a JDM vvti 2jzgte ecu and use that on your na-t motor, but I am not sure how well those ecu's respond to single turbo setups so you might need a piggyback. I know 1jzgte vvti comes with a single turbo so maybe you can use one of those ecu's and juts use larger injectors to compensate for displacement, but again this is a bit of uncharted territory, most people just run the standalone and have it tuned at that point even on vvti gte setups.

The simplest/cheapest might be a 1jz vvti swap for you, but since you have no emissions you can really do any setup you want in there you will have to do some research and narrow down a couple of paths like if you can't work on your own motor alot and just want a turbo setup that works then do not go na-t, do a swap. if you rather drill and tap oil pans etc... to save some money and learn a bunch about turbocharging, then go na-t.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

never done mods to the aem boxes before but that sounds about right at least for the v1, not sure on the v2.
you might be able to ask aem even but they will tell you that it will void your warranty of course.

oSUPRAo

What transmission are you running? As much as I would like an R154 it just doesn't make sense at my power goal of 700whp. The swap alone would cost around 5 grand based on what I'm reading. Then I would probably need a tilton clutch which is another few grand. It seems like I would be much better off just getting a built auto or doing a TH400 swap. I see the BL built auto for sale on a few websites but I don't see them listed on their website. Have they been discontinued or something? Any transmission advice would be appreciated. What is the most cost effective transmission that can handle a 700whp daily driver?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I am running the stock w58, it will only hold 400ish range, many have broken it with less. R154 can hold 700 but they can have rear seal issues.
I am not sure why you think a r154 swap will cost 5k or you need a top of the line tilton, you can use a less expensive clutch kit that works like south bend.
I dont know anything about auto transmissions, not my thing. the most cost effective is the r154 or newer ar5 swap.
next closest is the 350z trans solution and those hold lots of power up to 1k+ people are saying, maybe look into that.

oSUPRAo

Will do, thanks.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

Ali, have you heard much about the use of the T-56 Magnum against 2JZ's? I'm not sure how far that has gone but I know some SF guys have tried it.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

I haven't heard much but the kit looks good and T-56 magnums are proven to hold power and you can get many different length shifters for it. I read one of them is pretty spot on, maybe it was the F body one not sure. I think its a great option for the 2jz thanks for reminding me.

KahnBB6

iTrader: (5)

^^ So there is an official kit for them now too? I know there is a difference in the maximum power holding between the early T-56's from 90's F-Bodies and the "Magnum" direct aftermarket versions which are supposed to be rated for a constant 700whp... at minimum. They're supposed to be the same internally as the OEM TR6060's.

SC300T

Ali,
In page 1 of this thread:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...coilpacks.html
It appears you have an AEM or equivalent MAP sensor attached to a short run of vac line with a couple fittings at the front of the Intake plenum near the power steering. On my SC that vac line seems like a great place but it also seems to provide vacuum to the PS pump, yet on your setup (back then) it appeared to be disconnected. I want to wire my MAP sensor in this locaiton. (I have stock intake manifold). Did you relocate vacuum source to the PS pump? Looking for the easiest/best location for my MAP sensor. Thanks.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Well there are a couple "kits" but its not really that mainstream. there is a page you can order a kit from Granasracing, not sure how many are doing it.
It wouldn't be that crazy to just piece it together yourself, bellhousings for 2JZ to chevy patterns have been out for a while, you need the one for a manual trans though.
the rest comes down to the flywheel clutch setup, and those trans have a hydraulic release bearing I think so it should reduce complications.

Might even be a better option than the 350z trans to be honest, but I think its pricier overall but the shifter will can come out perfect is a benefit.

Wow, that setup was many moons ago. What I did was I removed the power steering vac lines completely, from that location on the intake to the idle up switch on the pump, then from the switch across the metal hardline in front of the motor to the intake, I removed all that stuff and capped the switch with vac caps so dust/dirt wonte get in. you don't really need it if you are parallel parking rpm's might dip a hair but I occasionally blip the throttle but really its not needed the ecu figures it out rather quickly.

Since then though I have learnt to tee the map sensor in with the fuel pressure regulator, use the same size vac lines as the FPR and use a tee or Y fitting is even better for flow. that ties the fuel in with the pressure the ecu is seeing. If you do it this way you can retain the power steering stuff, although when I go na-t I generally just take off the power steering thing cause I suspect it messes with the map sensor readings occasionally and wasn't sure how it reacts under boost all the time, I think it closes but not 100% so I deleted it and it cleans up the routing.

there is also a factory spot for the map sensor closer to the firewall side of the intake, there is a plug that can be removed and a fitting attached. that is where the JDM 2jzge map sensor is connected, but most don't bother with it and just use a diff spot or tee into the FPR as I said earlier. when I have the stock intake on I tee off the fpr.

SC300T

Ali,
I'm preparing for an AEM EMS V2 install and there doesn't seem to be a setting in the AEM EMS v2 wizard to include the factory 330cc injectors. From what I've heard, the battery offset and possibly some other factors need to be added. I'm assuming they are 330cc denso's yet there is nothing listed for 330 denso. The specs I got from the AEM info are 320cc, and 13-15 ohms. The closest seems to be Camry 330cc injectors (which don't seem to be low impedance). Do you know the correct entry for stock injectors in this wizard? I have two 550cc aux injectors mounted in the intake manifold that I also intend to use as supplimentals, and drive these directly with the AEM injector 7 and 8 outputs.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you should be fine selecting a similar Denso of a larger size that they do have, just make sure the impedance is the same, so if they have a 440 or 550 denso high impedance in the list then do that. generally the lag/dead times will be very close. I want to say those injectors are in the aem v1 settings, so you could copy from there but I usually just select the closest injector in the same family cause its just for setting up the dead times which has more to do with style of injector. any small discrepancies will get handled in the tune.

Why are you doing the extra injector stuff on a standalone? its not as consistent. I would pull the 330's and drop in some 1000cc ev14 injectors and call it a day, and then in the future you will only have to tweak that tune not start over... at the very least just go 550c all around, good luck!!