Manual Conversion Pedals
#1
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Thread Starter
Manual Conversion Pedals
I am starting to gather items for Sc400 conversion and have few questions
Clutch Pedal Bracket:
There is enough detail on the master cylinder install, but the bracket installation is glossed over ... other than its a pain.
Does the padding need to be cut underneath the bracket?
Are the mounting holes premarked? And how many?
Where and how do you access the nuts?
It seems folks just give-up on the mounting bolt/(s).
Brake Pedal:
It seems the old bracket can stay and only the pedal needs to be modified.
Does the manual brake pedal fit without any modification or new bushing(s) spacers?
Is there a difference in angle of the pedal between the auto and the manual brake pedal?
If I use the old (auto) pedal and grind the flat for smaller rubber, do the center points end up fine?
Salim
Clutch Pedal Bracket:
There is enough detail on the master cylinder install, but the bracket installation is glossed over ... other than its a pain.
Does the padding need to be cut underneath the bracket?
Are the mounting holes premarked? And how many?
Where and how do you access the nuts?
It seems folks just give-up on the mounting bolt/(s).
Brake Pedal:
It seems the old bracket can stay and only the pedal needs to be modified.
Does the manual brake pedal fit without any modification or new bushing(s) spacers?
Is there a difference in angle of the pedal between the auto and the manual brake pedal?
If I use the old (auto) pedal and grind the flat for smaller rubber, do the center points end up fine?
Salim
#3
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
For the clutch pedal bracket, there will be a diamond shape engraved in the padding. Cut that out and you will see the hole pattern stamped into the firewall. You will need to drill out the two small holes for mounting the master cylinder. Additionally, you will need to punch out the large hole for the master cylinder rod to pass through the firewall. The nuts are accessed from under the dash. The bolts on the master cylinder will pass through the firewall, then through the clutch bracket "standoffs", and then you will thread the nut on the end of those bolts.
The manual brake pedal fits right on, easy swap out. Just disconnect the spring, pull the cotter/clevis pins out, slide the manual brake pedal in, re install cotter/clevis pins, and reinstall spring. Very easy.
I can't be sure about center point of the brake pedals at the moment. But I don't see why you couldnt just grind down the auto brake pedal as you suggested.
Check out my build thread for converting my auto 1jz to cd009. All pics and steps are on 1st page. I go into pretty good detail for drilling the holes and mounting the MC and everything
Keith
The manual brake pedal fits right on, easy swap out. Just disconnect the spring, pull the cotter/clevis pins out, slide the manual brake pedal in, re install cotter/clevis pins, and reinstall spring. Very easy.
I can't be sure about center point of the brake pedals at the moment. But I don't see why you couldnt just grind down the auto brake pedal as you suggested.
Check out my build thread for converting my auto 1jz to cd009. All pics and steps are on 1st page. I go into pretty good detail for drilling the holes and mounting the MC and everything
Keith
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jadu (05-02-17)
#4
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from what ive exprienced with the drift motion conversion kit the brake pedal needs a bracket aswell i used the stock auto pedal its a lil close to the clutch pedal but its ok
#6
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Thread Starter
For the clutch pedal bracket, there will be a diamond shape engraved in the padding. Cut that out and you will see the hole pattern stamped into the firewall. You will need to drill out the two small holes for mounting the master cylinder. Additionally, you will need to punch out the large hole for the master cylinder rod to pass through the firewall. The nuts are accessed from under the dash. The bolts on the master cylinder will pass through the firewall, then through the clutch bracket "standoffs", and then you will thread the nut on the end of those bolts.
The manual brake pedal fits right on, easy swap out. Just disconnect the spring, pull the cotter/clevis pins out, slide the manual brake pedal in, re install cotter/clevis pins, and reinstall spring. Very easy.
I can't be sure about center point of the brake pedals at the moment. But I don't see why you couldnt just grind down the auto brake pedal as you suggested.
Check out my build thread for converting my auto 1jz to cd009. All pics and steps are on 1st page. I go into pretty good detail for drilling the holes and mounting the MC and everything
Keith
The manual brake pedal fits right on, easy swap out. Just disconnect the spring, pull the cotter/clevis pins out, slide the manual brake pedal in, re install cotter/clevis pins, and reinstall spring. Very easy.
I can't be sure about center point of the brake pedals at the moment. But I don't see why you couldnt just grind down the auto brake pedal as you suggested.
Check out my build thread for converting my auto 1jz to cd009. All pics and steps are on 1st page. I go into pretty good detail for drilling the holes and mounting the MC and everything
Keith
I will read your post and gather gems.
2 for bolts and 1 for push rod are well documented. Take the diamond out and the three holes are marked. . For the rest .. I must cut out the padding and mount the bracket directly on the metal (body). There appear 2 more mounting holes on the bracket [top and bottom] Are holes for those marked or body? Is the bracket secured to the body from the ends?
Salim
#7
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
Salim,
I'm kind of confused. Please post a picture of your clutch pedal assembly. You will only need to mount the clutch pedal assembly by those two holes that are diagonal to eachother, and are through the "standoff" part. They will align right up with the studs on the master cylinder that go through the firewall and will also align right up with the hole provisions stamped on the firewall. Just make sure that when you drill the holes, you use a drill bit that is only big enough for the stud on the master cylinder, because the "standoff" parts of the pedal assembly will have to mount to the firewall.
The pedal assembly is secured by the studs on the master cylinder. The studs go through the firewall, then through the bracket, and then a nut is threaded on to fasten the pedal assembly and master cylinder to the firewall. Have a look at my thread and it should make sense. Just don't mind the extra 2 holes that I drilled in my pedal assembly. I had to do that because of my custom master cylinder
Keith
I'm kind of confused. Please post a picture of your clutch pedal assembly. You will only need to mount the clutch pedal assembly by those two holes that are diagonal to eachother, and are through the "standoff" part. They will align right up with the studs on the master cylinder that go through the firewall and will also align right up with the hole provisions stamped on the firewall. Just make sure that when you drill the holes, you use a drill bit that is only big enough for the stud on the master cylinder, because the "standoff" parts of the pedal assembly will have to mount to the firewall.
The pedal assembly is secured by the studs on the master cylinder. The studs go through the firewall, then through the bracket, and then a nut is threaded on to fasten the pedal assembly and master cylinder to the firewall. Have a look at my thread and it should make sense. Just don't mind the extra 2 holes that I drilled in my pedal assembly. I had to do that because of my custom master cylinder
Keith
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#8
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Thread Starter
I dont have the bracket in hand. I was looking at the picture and apparently wrongly understood that the top and bottom need to be attached too.
Thank you for confirming that the bracket is held by master cylinder only.
Salim
Thank you for confirming that the bracket is held by master cylinder only.
Salim
#9
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
You're welcome. And I'm sorry, there is one more bolt that fastens the assembly. But it is not where the master cylinder comes through. It is headed more towards the steering wheel. It is kind of hard to get to, so if you just loosely tape a socket to the head of the bolt, it will keep it in place while you find the hole. But again, check my thread and you will see.
The hardest part for me was working under the dash all the way up in the corner. There's not much room under there. You will have to remove the telescoping steering wheel ECU and its associated bracket in order to make room to get in there to drill the holes and install everything. Same for the brake pedal, you will have to remove one of the ECU's under there and a bracket to get access to the cotter/clevis pins. But after that, you're good to go
Keith
The hardest part for me was working under the dash all the way up in the corner. There's not much room under there. You will have to remove the telescoping steering wheel ECU and its associated bracket in order to make room to get in there to drill the holes and install everything. Same for the brake pedal, you will have to remove one of the ECU's under there and a bracket to get access to the cotter/clevis pins. But after that, you're good to go
Keith
#13
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Thread Starter
I have secured the clutch master cylinder.
For brake pedal --> I will look for a sc3 manual brake pedal only.
unknown/most_likely -> transfer switches from auto-pedal to manual pedal, re-use old bushings/spacers/pins.
procedure: swap
For clutch+ bracket --> source everything.
procedure: remove diamond. Drill/cut 3 holes.
still unknown but most likely or can be deiced during the change: Cut the sound material to place bracket directly on the cabin-wall.
not-sure: LoveSC stated the bracket tis held by the two but that hold the master cylinder. With due respect LoveSc .. there may be more holes to punch in the body. My engineering (can be flawed) expects 3 point anchor at minimum.
Sorry, I visualize and mentally walk through the procedure ... not the best attitude for mods .. flying by the seat of the pants.
Salim
For brake pedal --> I will look for a sc3 manual brake pedal only.
unknown/most_likely -> transfer switches from auto-pedal to manual pedal, re-use old bushings/spacers/pins.
procedure: swap
For clutch+ bracket --> source everything.
procedure: remove diamond. Drill/cut 3 holes.
still unknown but most likely or can be deiced during the change: Cut the sound material to place bracket directly on the cabin-wall.
not-sure: LoveSC stated the bracket tis held by the two but that hold the master cylinder. With due respect LoveSc .. there may be more holes to punch in the body. My engineering (can be flawed) expects 3 point anchor at minimum.
Sorry, I visualize and mentally walk through the procedure ... not the best attitude for mods .. flying by the seat of the pants.
Salim
#14
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Thread Starter
LoveSc's image
? are not understood.
Salim
? are not understood.
Salim
#15
Driver School Candidate