RXRodger

iTrader: (2)

Only shot I could find of the inside of the moonroof, doesn't show it well but you get the idea. Since its curved, I had to slice the angle part of the way through to get it to shape the edge of the roof (note: what appears to be double angle is a reflection). I didn't use rivets, for the reason you are running into, I used self tapping screws. I did not put screws in the rear, I siliconed the hole assembly so didn't think it was necessary. I used a little thicker material than you guys did also, so it doesn't oil can at all.



Yes, meant that for Benny and his CF hood. I can take a few pics but basically we gutted everything but the skin and three small areas, one about 4" wide that incorporates the safety latch, the other 2 at the hinges. We riveted the small section at the safety latch in 4 places so it would still be attached to the hood skin. We put three of the small c channels 4' long you can buy at Lowes across the hood to give it some stiffness. I weighed almost 21 pounds (which is probably plus/minus a couple) so figured a couple of pounds for c channels and rivets. Those are just rough numbers from digital bathroom scales weighed a couple of times so don't take that to the bank. The bulk of the weight is in the front edge since it is 4 layers thick.

Edit: Forgot the car was here. Took a shot in the dark, which doesn't show well but you can see all that is left is the skin and those small sections, and a small lip along the back edge that I bent to create a little stiffness.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Ah, I see what you did. I was expecting little L-brackets, not something that stout. That's extra weight.

I was actually really close to going with SS hardware (Edit: to make it removable if needed), possibly small carriage bolts with lock nuts on the bottom for better security, but wasn't sure I'd be able to pull it off while fighting the drying time of the silicone. However, a friend had a suggestion I'll try before removing all the rivets: fill the pin holes from the top with epoxy. (I might try JB Weld.) Seems worth a shot once everything dries out under the tarp. My train of thought was stuck on sealing them from the bottom.

Wow, you weren't messing around. Taking out the full perimeter is a lot of work, and precisely where I figured the bulk of the weight is when removing the inner bracing.

RXRodger

iTrader: (2)

Seems like it was about 0.6lb of angle and probably almost that in screws.

JB Weld is pretty brittle, I would think something more flexible would be better, but maybe JB would adhere ok and probably work.

Like I said, the most weight removed on the hood was along the front edge since it had 4 layers in it. It was like the door panels, I had already gutted the doors and cut out the area where the NASCAR cage bars extend into it but this weekend we took out the inside edge above the top cage bar (was maybe 6" tall that was left) and the factory door bar (no longer needed with the 3 bar cage) and that was around 10lb per door. Surprised me how much weight that was. Was able to leave the door latch and lever for quick exit by screwing it back in the double wall lip of the outside skin of the door. When I get time I'll gut the lock mechanism since it's not needed anymore.

Chattanoah

You could always just buy a hardtop SC!

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

Good point. I was thinking of it in terms of being a good metal filler, but it does chip away like sandstone. I had an unopened pack of gel epoxy I was going to use, but it was dried out in one tube... So, I went and picked up some marine epoxy, figuring nothing will be better suited to the elements than that. That was seriously tedious work, filling all those tiny holes with toothpicks... Moral of the story to anyone doing a riveted sunroof delete: get filled core rivets!

I've long wanted to ditch those, but the risk is too high on a street driven car with no cage. I may do away with the pass. side, though, since this car will never have a seat there. Looks like a lot of work, but 10 lbs is 10 lbs!

Yeah, because those are a dime a dozen... The guy I bought this car from actually has a hardtop 5spd w/ cloth seats. He's thought about getting rid of it now that it's his second car and rarely driven, but he said he knows he'll never find another one and will regret it.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

You could have gotten away with installing half the amount of rivets and then using urethane windshield adhesive to seal the roof.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

That's actually precisely why I specified that I followed Benny's lead with the 2" spacing. I didn't feel confident that bigger gaps between rivets would hold it snug to the roof line, especially the leading edge where it has to curve the most and is also most susceptible to wind forces lifting it up and breaking the seal. Windshields have the advantage of all the forces working to hold them in place... How would you clamp the panel down enough to get adhesive to hold it there while drying? Seemed like a losing proposition.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I forgot you mounted it on top. I was thinking recessed with L brackets in place like RXrodger did.

For clamping it down while drying just put something heavy on top while it dries and creates a seal.

These are the best pictures I could find in my photobucket. There are 8 tabs welded in place to support the sunroof plug and rivets. Once riveted in place the urethane goes in between the plug and roof to create a seal.

RXRodger

iTrader: (2)

I guess I should clarify, the door bars didn't weigh 10lb, the combination of the door bar and the section of inside metal door panel that was left from previous gutting weighed 10lb. I think the bar was around 6 pounds. Also, my weights are appropriate since we weighed with bathroom scales just to get an idea. I have never been concerned about absolute numbers, it is what iit is I have just focused on removing what can be removed.

t2d2

iTrader: (8)

You'd have to put a heck of a lot of weight on it for that to work. Probably upwards of 100 lbs. The metal won't follow the slope at the front edge otherwise.

That seems like a lot more work and more prone to leaks, my rivet issues aside. Looks very professional, though.

I think I've seen that 6 lb figure before, so that makes sense.

bigwhite

Sun roofless SCs are very hard to find, especially a 400. Thats why I paid $600 to have mine proff. done. Some guys like to DIY and thats where you gain excpearience.