Need help with reshimming valve bucket procedure
#1
Need help with reshimming valve bucket procedure
I need to reshim because I had the machine shop cut all the valve seats and valves due to an exhaust valve leak. I am going to put in some BC 264 cams.
I read that that you should not turn the cam shaft independently to check the clearance if you're running big cams (bend valves). I was thinking turning the crank to 60 degree so there is room in the cylinder.
Lastly, if anyone had use that toyota shim adjustment tool, how do you use the little tool to keep the bucket down? (after you twist using the scissor tool to push the bucket down)
If anyone had experience can help me that would be awesome.
I read that that you should not turn the cam shaft independently to check the clearance if you're running big cams (bend valves). I was thinking turning the crank to 60 degree so there is room in the cylinder.
Lastly, if anyone had use that toyota shim adjustment tool, how do you use the little tool to keep the bucket down? (after you twist using the scissor tool to push the bucket down)
If anyone had experience can help me that would be awesome.
#2
I need to reshim because I had the machine shop cut all the valve seats and valves due to an exhaust valve leak. I am going to put in some BC 264 cams.
I read that that you should not turn the cam shaft independently to check the clearance if you're running big cams (bend valves). I was thinking turning the crank to 60 degree so there is room in the cylinder.
Lastly, if anyone had use that toyota shim adjustment tool, how do you use the little tool to keep the bucket down? (after you twist using the scissor tool to push the bucket down)
If anyone had experience can help me that would be awesome.
I read that that you should not turn the cam shaft independently to check the clearance if you're running big cams (bend valves). I was thinking turning the crank to 60 degree so there is room in the cylinder.
Lastly, if anyone had use that toyota shim adjustment tool, how do you use the little tool to keep the bucket down? (after you twist using the scissor tool to push the bucket down)
If anyone had experience can help me that would be awesome.
#3
You can always do it the old fashioned way, start by removing the spark plugs so its easier to crank over...
part 1: Throw the timing belt on @ TDC, pop belt tensioner in, turn the crank to rotate and take all your measurements...
part 2: rotate crank to TDC, pop out belt tensioner, slip belt off cam gear(s), pop out cam(s), shim and then repeat part 1 to check and then part 2 if you need to readjust.
You need a large c clip or press to get the hydraulic tensioner back to ready position along with a pin to keep it in place.
If your timing belt is already on, you don't have to disassemble everything either, I just pop out the tensioner from below, and that will give you enough slack to get the belt off the cam gear, then I use a large clip and clip the belt up so it wont fall down. then after making adjustments just slip belt back on and pop in tensioner from below, saves the headache of taking everything off the front of the motor... unless you drop the belt that is lol.
As for doing it the way you are saying @ 60 degrees, it might be enough but I am not 100% as I haven't done it before. probably worth a try.
I doubt you will bend valves if you are turning it by hand cause you should feel resistance if they were to contact.
Don't use a breaker bar lol
part 1: Throw the timing belt on @ TDC, pop belt tensioner in, turn the crank to rotate and take all your measurements...
part 2: rotate crank to TDC, pop out belt tensioner, slip belt off cam gear(s), pop out cam(s), shim and then repeat part 1 to check and then part 2 if you need to readjust.
You need a large c clip or press to get the hydraulic tensioner back to ready position along with a pin to keep it in place.
If your timing belt is already on, you don't have to disassemble everything either, I just pop out the tensioner from below, and that will give you enough slack to get the belt off the cam gear, then I use a large clip and clip the belt up so it wont fall down. then after making adjustments just slip belt back on and pop in tensioner from below, saves the headache of taking everything off the front of the motor... unless you drop the belt that is lol.
As for doing it the way you are saying @ 60 degrees, it might be enough but I am not 100% as I haven't done it before. probably worth a try.
I doubt you will bend valves if you are turning it by hand cause you should feel resistance if they were to contact.
Don't use a breaker bar lol
Last edited by Ali SC3; 10-18-16 at 09:00 AM.
#4
Personally I would remove the timing belt and remove the spark plugs. You can use an extension and rotate the crank until all of the pistons are far enough away from the valves where you can push down on the valves without doing any damage to them so you can rotate the cam shafts to take your measurements.
Steve K.
Steve K.
#5
Yhea, valves are not that wimpy, if you bend them by hand, you forced the cam to turn when it was obviously hitting something. Don't use a 3 foot breaker to spin the cams and you wont bend any valves. You can also easily just use a screwdriver down the plug hole to make sure the engine is not at TDC and prevent any potential contact at all.
#6
if you wanna rev high go shimless, its hard to explain how to use the tool but you put the little part on the side pushing the edge of the bucket on both sides so it keeps it down then remove the scissor looking thing. 264 on a none vvti wont come close to touching the pistons with the valves ull be okay.
#7
I do mine with cams in , just get the Toyo tool that clamps around the cam and as you rotate it on cam it pushes the bucket down and you use second part of tool to wedge in between so you remove first part of tool then use small pick to pop shim up and magnet pulls it out .. so much faster then cam removal
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